DTX2023Tremor's Money Pit Build and other miscellaneous topics

I can get them off mine.
BroncoHooves said:
Do you know what the wall thickness is for the 24k hitches? My truck has the 21k rated hitch and the design was based off that.
Click to expand...
Send me a dm and I’ll get a measurement for you
 
Ok... Finally had a chance to get some mods done ... Nice timing since it is just before @Lunch Box 's world record Tremor meet-up.

Installing the following:
1. NOCO Genius GEN5X1
2. NOCO GCP2 15A AC Port Plug - one will go to the block heater while the other to the battery charger.
3. Makevivi Outdoor Waterproof On/Off Switch Extension Cord - the block heater will plug into this so I can keep it off while the battery maintainer is on.
4. weBoost Drive Reach Overland Signal Booster Kit - Costco has a good deal on this compared to MSRP
5. @BMCLIGHTS 2017-2024 FORD F250-F450 SUPER DUTY HITCH BAR ™ LIGHTING KIT - PAIR. I got these with the diffused Rigid SR-Q Pro 6" Midnight Series *, standard 2 light end cap,
ROCK Guard - Bedliner on bottom and rear face of bar, and the upfitter harness.
6. @BMCLIGHTS 2023-2024 Ford Super Duty Fog Light Kit with BajaPro - clear lenses on the S2 pros and amber lenses on the Squadron pros. Connecting the S2s to the factory fog lamp switch and the Squadrons to an upfitter.

Shout-out to Brian @BMCLIGHTS for making sure I have all the harnesses needed to make the connections for the hitch lights and fog lights. Super excited to see these when I pick up the truck tomorrow.

7. Rough Country Hidden Winch Mount with the Rough Country PRO12000S winch. I was hoping to be able to install the Apex 12K winch, bit it is about 0.5" too wide to fit the mounting plate and the only way it would seem to work is with the plastic body around the winch removed.

Note for anyone looking to do this install on a '23/'24, there is also some trimming required to get the mounting bracket to work. Turns out the fairlead mount hits some of the bracketry for the bumper. So for anyone with a diesel, it requires trimming in two places. Since I have gas it is just so it doesn't interfere with the bumper's mounting brackets.

1000010954.webp
 
Here's a preview with the winch and fogs installed.

1000010955.webp


If you're in DFW, the crew at Renegade Customs is great to work with. They're also a Line-X dealer and install Llumar PPF and tints.
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
Ok... Finally had a chance to get some mods done ... Nice timing since it is just before @Lunch Box 's world record Tremor meet-up.

Installing the following:
1. NOCO Genius GEN5X1
2. NOCO GCP2 15A AC Port Plug - one will go to the block heater while the other to the battery charger.
3. Makevivi Outdoor Waterproof On/Off Switch Extension Cord - the block heater will plug into this so I can keep it off while the battery maintainer is on.
4. weBoost Drive Reach Overland Signal Booster Kit - Costco has a good deal on this compared to MSRP
5. @BMCLIGHTS 2017-2024 FORD F250-F450 SUPER DUTY HITCH BAR ™ LIGHTING KIT - PAIR. I got these with the diffused Rigid SR-Q Pro 6" Midnight Series *, standard 2 light end cap,
ROCK Guard - Bedliner on bottom and rear face of bar, and the upfitter harness.
6. @BMCLIGHTS 2023-2024 Ford Super Duty Fog Light Kit with BajaPro - clear lenses on the S2 pros and amber lenses on the Squadron pros. Connecting the S2s to the factory fog lamp switch and the Squadrons to an upfitter.

Shout-out to Brian @BMCLIGHTS for making sure I have all the harnesses needed to make the connections for the hitch lights and fog lights. Super excited to see these when I pick up the truck tomorrow.

7. Rough Country Hidden Winch Mount with the Rough Country PRO12000S winch. I was hoping to be able to install the Apex 12K winch, bit it is about 0.5" too wide to fit the mounting plate and the only way it would seem to work is with the plastic body around the winch removed.

Note for anyone looking to do this install on a '23/'24, there is also some trimming required to get the mounting bracket to work. Turns out the fairlead mount hits some of the bracketry for the bumper. So for anyone with a diesel, it requires trimming in two places. Since I have gas it is just so it doesn't interfere with the bumper's mounting brackets.

View attachment 154687
Click to expand...
"Nice timing since it is just before @Lunch Box 's world record Tremor meet-up."

You had to put that in there, didn't you. 🤪
 
thatdood said:
I’ve been considering them for my Carli lift and some PPF
Click to expand...
I've got future plans with them for additional lighting, suspension work, and a few other mods I have on my list. I've been happy with the quality of their work and pricing.
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
I've got future plans with them for additional lighting, suspension work, and a few other mods I have on my list. I've been happy with the quality of their work and pricing.
Click to expand...
Great to hear, probably the closest shop to me that isn’t 4 wheel parts
 
The finished product. Now need to figure out another license plate solution. Thinking I'll see if the fairlead mounted flip up plate will work.

1000010982.webp

1000010981.webp

1000010987.webp
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
Ok... Finally had a chance to get some mods done ... Nice timing since it is just before @Lunch Box 's world record Tremor meet-up.

Installing the following:
1. NOCO Genius GEN5X1
2. NOCO GCP2 15A AC Port Plug - one will go to the block heater while the other to the battery charger.
3. Makevivi Outdoor Waterproof On/Off Switch Extension Cord - the block heater will plug into this so I can keep it off while the battery maintainer is on.
4. weBoost Drive Reach Overland Signal Booster Kit - Costco has a good deal on this compared to MSRP
5. @BMCLIGHTS 2017-2024 FORD F250-F450 SUPER DUTY HITCH BAR ™ LIGHTING KIT - PAIR. I got these with the diffused Rigid SR-Q Pro 6" Midnight Series *, standard 2 light end cap,
ROCK Guard - Bedliner on bottom and rear face of bar, and the upfitter harness.
6. @BMCLIGHTS 2023-2024 Ford Super Duty Fog Light Kit with BajaPro - clear lenses on the S2 pros and amber lenses on the Squadron pros. Connecting the S2s to the factory fog lamp switch and the Squadrons to an upfitter.

Shout-out to Brian @BMCLIGHTS for making sure I have all the harnesses needed to make the connections for the hitch lights and fog lights. Super excited to see these when I pick up the truck tomorrow.

7. Rough Country Hidden Winch Mount with the Rough Country PRO12000S winch. I was hoping to be able to install the Apex 12K winch, bit it is about 0.5" too wide to fit the mounting plate and the only way it would seem to work is with the plastic body around the winch removed.

Note for anyone looking to do this install on a '23/'24, there is also some trimming required to get the mounting bracket to work. Turns out the fairlead mount hits some of the bracketry for the bumper. So for anyone with a diesel, it requires trimming in two places. Since I have gas it is just so it doesn't interfere with the bumper's mounting brackets.

View attachment 154687
Click to expand...
Where did you end up mounting your NOCO 5X at? Very few mounting places. Any pics?
 
Blue Devil said:
Where did you end up mounting your NOCO 5X at? Very few mounting places. Any pics?
Click to expand...
Sorry for not responding sooner. I had the shop install it and just went out to see where they put it. I can see they attached it to the driver's side battery. The device itself seems to be tucked up under the plastic piece at the front of the engine bay, in front of the radiator. I can see where the cables run and the power cord going down to the Noco plug. Following the wires with my hand, it is in front of a foam piece above the radiator. I can't see it through the grill so it's hidden pretty well.

I appreciate where they put it as it will keep it out of the way and like dry. Also would keep it from getting as cooked by the engine.

I'll have to get my scope camera charged to see if I can get a photo of how it's secured in there.
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
Sorry for not responding sooner. I had the shop install it and just went out to see where they put it. I can see they attached it to the driver's side battery. The device itself seems to be tucked up under the plastic piece at the front of the engine bay, in front of the radiator. I can see where the cables run and the power cord going down to the Noco plug. Following the wires with my hand, it is in front of a foam piece above the radiator. I can't see it through the grill so it's hidden pretty well.

I appreciate where they put it as it will keep it out of the way and like dry. Also would keep it from getting as cooked by the engine.

I'll have to get my scope camera charged to see if I can get a photo of how it's secured in there.
Click to expand...
When I get the chance, I will look in that area. My concern is the heat also and that area seems like it would be able to shield it.....at least a little bit.
 
So I've been hunting for rims and wanted to get something that was forged, hub centric design, with removable hub caps so I can retain access of the factory front hubs.

I've found a brand with a couple of styles I like and the rims have a center bore of 125.1mm ... From what I've read, the Ford factory hubs are 125.2mm. I'm wondering how strict the manufacturing tolerances are. Is it possible that these will fit? I appreciate that the hub is technically larger than the bore on the rim, but wonder if there's a difference between stated vs actual and whether the 0.1 mm difference may not be an issue.

If they fit, could I have issues due to expansion/contraction from heat/cold from one material vs the other? I know that different metals expand and contract to different extents and worst case that the aluminum rim will expand/contract 0.000013 inches for each inch per deg F and the steel will expand only .0000065 per degree F. So from 75 degrees F to 125 degrees F, aluminum would expand 0.02mm which I expect would negligible.

I know there are some engineers on here. Maybe I'm overthinking it all, but would be great to get some expert advice.
 
Briski said:
You shouldn’t be worried about the temperature changes for the wheels vs hubs. If it we were talking 500F, then it would be a concern. Negligible
Cheers 🍻
Click to expand...
Thank you 😁
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
So I've been hunting for rims and wanted to get something that was forged, hub centric design, with removable hub caps so I can retain access of the factory front hubs.

I've found a brand with a couple of styles I like and the rims have a center bore of 125.1mm ... From what I've read, the Ford factory hubs are 125.2mm. I'm wondering how strict the manufacturing tolerances are. Is it possible that these will fit? I appreciate that the hub is technically larger than the bore on the rim, but wonder if there's a difference between stated vs actual and whether the 0.1 mm difference may not be an issue.

If they fit, could I have issues due to expansion/contraction from heat/cold from one material vs the other? I know that different metals expand and contract to different extents and worst case that the aluminum rim will expand/contract 0.000013 inches for each inch per deg F and the steel will expand only .0000065 per degree F. So from 75 degrees F to 125 degrees F, aluminum would expand 0.02mm which I expect would negligible.

I know there are some engineers on here. Maybe I'm overthinking it all, but would be great to get some expert advice.
Click to expand...
Should be no issue. My cnc machined hub centric rings I spec'd for my wheels are made with an ID of 124.9mm. I have about a 25 µM heat shrink fit on them. When I rotate tires, the rings stay on the hub. You should be fine with 125.1mm.
 
BroncOh said:
Should be no issue. My cnc machined hub centric rings I spec'd for my wheels are made with an ID of 124.9mm. I have about a 25 µM heat shrink fit on them. When I rotate tires, the rings stay on the hub. You should be fine with 125.1mm.
Click to expand...
Awesome. Thank you 😁
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
So I've been hunting for rims and wanted to get something that was forged, hub centric design, with removable hub caps so I can retain access of the factory front hubs.

I've found a brand with a couple of styles I like and the rims have a center bore of 125.1mm ... From what I've read, the Ford factory hubs are 125.2mm. I'm wondering how strict the manufacturing tolerances are. Is it possible that these will fit? I appreciate that the hub is technically larger than the bore on the rim, but wonder if there's a difference between stated vs actual and whether the 0.1 mm difference may not be an issue.

If they fit, could I have issues due to expansion/contraction from heat/cold from one material vs the other? I know that different metals expand and contract to different extents and worst case that the aluminum rim will expand/contract 0.000013 inches for each inch per deg F and the steel will expand only .0000065 per degree F. So from 75 degrees F to 125 degrees F, aluminum would expand 0.02mm which I expect would negligible.

I know there are some engineers on here. Maybe I'm overthinking it all, but would be great to get some expert advice.
Click to expand...
Whether you go stock or aftermarket, you're going to have surface rust on the hub holding the wheels on. Nature of the beast on these trucks unless you go a method like @BroncOh mentioned with his heat shrink setup.
 
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