DTX2023Tremor's Money Pit Build and other miscellaneous topics

trmrzla said:
Did they treat you right with pricing?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I purchased on x-plan... not the best deal out there, but definitely a good price.
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
Thanks! The seats are comfortable, but still figuring out the ideal settings. Monday I'll get a better idea driving to Weatherford (about 2 hours with traffic).

We're going on a weekend road trip in a couple of weeks which will really help me see how comfortable they are for a long (4-5 hour drive).
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Another dfw citizen? I’ve been seeing a ton lately this way.
 
armorross said:
Dude rocking the Platinum Tremor with that big dick money!
Click to expand...
Lol... 🤣

in all seriousness, this is my first new vehicle in about 10 years.. been saving up for a while. The cost difference between a Lariat Ultimate and a Platinum is pretty small (all things considered) and I saved a ton not getting the HO 6.7, moon roof, and factory winch. Also planning on keeping this one for 10+ years so figured why not go platty so I could get the LED lights.
 
Oh this is so cool. I work in Weatherford a couple days a week so I'm gonna stop by and look into it, although I'm 99% sold on it.
 
Finally got some time to add a couple of mods to the truck that are needed in order to finish my PPF install: paint matched mirror caps and the paint matched tailgate applique.

The mirror caps were pretty straight forward to remove. I had watched a few YouTube videos, including one from PTT Arod - however his approach involved removing the entire mirror assembly to remove the cap, which would make sense if you wanted to retain / be able to remove the original. Most of the videos had you removing the mirror, but watching one that didn't do this, I felt it was an unnecessary step to take (as you'd also have to deal with unplugging all the wires that are also in the mirror).

Removing the existing cap is fairly easy:
1. Position each mirror as far down and to the inside as possible.
2. Look for tabs that secure the pins from the mirror cap. On a chromed cap, the pins will also be chrome. Take a thin screw driver and, starting from one side, press down lightly on the tab while pulling the mirror cap away from the housing. There are 4 pins, one at about the 10:00, 11:00, 1:00 and 2:00 positions. I used a trim tool to help with getting the cap free from the housing and to hold it away while I free subsequent pins.
3. Once those tabs are free, the top of the cap should be free of the housing. The only one left is the one on the bottom center. A video I saw made it seem like you could free this one as well, but my mirror cap didn't have any play in this one. If your does, you can slip a long thin Phillips head screw driver (thinner is better) into the pin hole on the vehicle side of the pin to release it. If you don't have any play like mine, just give it a firm yank and break the pin. It will forever live in your mirror housing.
4. Install the new mirror cap - just align the pins to the holes and press until each one clicks into place.

Here's the finished product:

Mirror Cap.webp
 
The tailgate applique was another story. The videos I found online made it look pretty easy and not that time consuming. This ended-up taking me about 45 min - 1 hour to do.

Step 1: Remove the screws that hold the panels on the inside of the tailgate. These require a specialty star bit to remove. My tailgate has a long panel across the top and a small one on the bottom on the passenger side.

Step 2: Locate the screws on each side of the tailgate. If I recall, these were 11 mm nuts. I found it helpful to use my ratchet with an angel extension as the access to the bolts, particularly on the drivers side, wasn't direct. On the passenger side, I removed the module and unplugged the power cable. This module controls the power tailgate. On the driver side, I didn't want to deal with removing that module as it was held in by 2 screws and one of those plastic push pins and I didn't have any handy to replace the pin if it stripped on removal. In retrospect, it would have been better to try and remove that so I could get the module out of the way - more important on the install stage.

Step 3: With the two nuts removed, the next step is to try and release as many of the pins holding the tailgate on as possible. There are pins around the perimeter as well as across the middle. I started on the passenger side since I had the most access there, using needle nose pliers to squeeze the pin and a flat head to push it down. I had my wife stick a trim tool into the gap to prevent the freed pin from reengaging. I didn't have enough trim tools to get them in between each set of pins, and they kept reengaging so I started using micro fiber towels. The more pins I released, I'd shove more towel into the gap. I suggest getting a pair of long-handled needle nose pliers for this job. The regular one I had got most of the visible pins, but there were a couple that I couldn't quite reach on the drivers side edge that would have been nice to release through this method.

Step 4: Once I was done releasing the pins I could see, I started working on the pins I couldn't. The videos I had seen on removing the applique had people just yanking on them to break the pins. I tried using a trim tool to try to control the force needed. Well, that turned out to be a bad idea. Even with a think piece of rubber underneath the tool, it put a small dent into the tail gate. My wife didn't notice it until I pointed it out, but its one of those things that once you see it, you can't unsee it. Well, it as bound to get a ding or a dent at some point... Ok, so for the rest of the pins, you just gotta yank on the panel, moving down to the next pin and giving it a very firm pull. It took a lot more force to break each pin then expected. As you get to the last one, have someone hold the side that's free so that the panel doesn't go flying when you finally get it free.

Step 5: Installing the new panel is super easy. Just align the pins on the new panel and the two screws to their respective holes and press it into place, listening for each pin to make a clicking sound. I suggest putting the nut on the passenger side on first and then reinstalling the tailgate motor power module before moving the the passenger side. You'll then need to power cycle the truck to get the tailgate to unlatch and lower. Then install the nut for the driver side. I tried installing the nut with the tailgate up and dropped it into the tailgate (which would have been easier to do if I wasn't trying to work around the module that was in the way - see note in step 2). My magnetic bolt finder with a light on it couldn't locate the missing nut and I was able to get it into every area on the driver side of the tailgate so am really confused as to where the nut went to). I've got a replacement one on order ($12 + $6 shipping) - it is part number W717509-S300. This comes usually as a four nut set, so had to find a place that would sell me one (rather than pay $50 + shipping).

Step 6: Re-install the panels you removed in step 1.

Tailgate.webp
 
Last mod for today was a really simple one... replacing the OEM antenna with Votex - 13 3/4 Inch Rubber Antenna FFD2-15 Here's an image with the new antenna installed and the OEM one next to it for comparison. I went with this antenna as I wanted to preserve AM/FM functionality and it seems like this can be a little hit or miss with the shorter ones.

New Antenna + OEM.webp
 
I also had Line-X Premium sprayed in last week. None of the Line-X dealers near me spray the Platinum one, but figured for my uses, the premium will be sufficient and last the life of the truck. Plus, the Line-X dealer I went to also has a customs shop and they took care of a few other things for me:

Electric Tonneau Cover: So I initially decided to go with the Pace Edwards Ultragroove Electric tonneau cover. This was primarily driven by mixed reviews across a number of blog sites on dealing with Retrax for warranty and Pace Edwards having a slightly better warranty, and being a few hundred cheaper in cost. Well, my dealer is a RealTruck preferred installer and they checked a number of suppliers and could not find one of these covers in stock. They even went as far as to call Pace Edwards who advised that they could make one, but it would take about 3 - 4 weeks. That didn't inspire much confidence that given the hundreds of thousands of these trucks built each year that Pace Edwards wouldn't have a supply available.

So ended up with the Retrax Powertrax Pro XR tonneau cover. I wanted the one with the groves on the side channels so that I could have the flexibility to install accessories in the future. The first of which would be the weboost which has a mount that would fit in the groove. My dealer was also able to get the warranty doubled for the electric cover which is something standard that Realtruck does for manual covers. The cover is nice and with the heavy rain we've had the last few days, it has done a great job at keeping the inside of my bed dry:

Retrax1.webp
 
Also had my tint done last week. In the past, I had gone 20/25% on the fronts and left the rears alone. This time I wanted to go a little darker, and also wanted the fronts and back to match (as much as possible). The shop that did the tonneau, line-x and PPF also did the tint.

Llumar IRX Ceramic Window tint (15 front doors)
Llumar AIR Clear film (80 on front windshield, 90 on rear doors and rear window)

I like how it turned out. The front look a tiny bit lighter because of the light coming in the windshield. I didn't want to go any darker to keep night visibility out the windows as good as possible, which I have found is reduced on the 5% tints.

Tint.webp
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
I also had Line-X Premium sprayed in last week. None of the Line-X dealers near me spray the Platinum one, but figured for my uses, the premium will be sufficient and last the life of the truck. Plus, the Line-X dealer I went to also has a customs shop and they took care of a few other things for me:

Electric Tonneau Cover: So I initially decided to go with the Pace Edwards Ultragroove Electric tonneau cover. This was primarily driven by mixed reviews across a number of blog sites on dealing with Retrax for warranty and Pace Edwards having a slightly better warranty, and being a few hundred cheaper in cost. Well, my dealer is a RealTruck preferred installer and they checked a number of suppliers and could not find one of these covers in stock. They even went as far as to call Pace Edwards who advised that they could make one, but it would take about 3 - 4 weeks. That didn't inspire much confidence that given the hundreds of thousands of these trucks built each year that Pace Edwards wouldn't have a supply available.

So ended up with the Retrax Powertrax Pro XR tonneau cover. I wanted the one with the groves on the side channels so that I could have the flexibility to install accessories in the future. The first of which would be the weboost which has a mount that would fit in the groove. My dealer was also able to get the warranty doubled for the electric cover which is something standard that Realtruck does for manual covers. The cover is nice and with the heavy rain we've had the last few days, it has done a great job at keeping the inside of my bed dry:

View attachment 133732
Click to expand...
No one likes sleeping in a wet bed.
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
The tailgate applique was another story. The videos I found online made it look pretty easy and not that time consuming. This ended-up taking me about 45 min - 1 hour to do.

Step 1: Remove the screws that hold the panels on the inside of the tailgate. These require a specialty star bit to remove. My tailgate has a long panel across the top and a small one on the bottom on the passenger side.

Step 2: Locate the screws on each side of the tailgate. If I recall, these were 11 mm nuts. I found it helpful to use my ratchet with an angel extension as the access to the bolts, particularly on the drivers side, wasn't direct. On the passenger side, I removed the module and unplugged the power cable. This module controls the power tailgate. On the driver side, I didn't want to deal with removing that module as it was held in by 2 screws and one of those plastic push pins and I didn't have any handy to replace the pin if it stripped on removal. In retrospect, it would have been better to try and remove that so I could get the module out of the way - more important on the install stage.

Step 3: With the two nuts removed, the next step is to try and release as many of the pins holding the tailgate on as possible. There are pins around the perimeter as well as across the middle. I started on the passenger side since I had the most access there, using needle nose pliers to squeeze the pin and a flat head to push it down. I had my wife stick a trim tool into the gap to prevent the freed pin from reengaging. I didn't have enough trim tools to get them in between each set of pins, and they kept reengaging so I started using micro fiber towels. The more pins I released, I'd shove more towel into the gap. I suggest getting a pair of long-handled needle nose pliers for this job. The regular one I had got most of the visible pins, but there were a couple that I couldn't quite reach on the drivers side edge that would have been nice to release through this method.

Step 4: Once I was done releasing the pins I could see, I started working on the pins I couldn't. The videos I had seen on removing the applique had people just yanking on them to break the pins. I tried using a trim tool to try to control the force needed. Well, that turned out to be a bad idea. Even with a think piece of rubber underneath the tool, it put a small dent into the tail gate. My wife didn't notice it until I pointed it out, but its one of those things that once you see it, you can't unsee it. Well, it as bound to get a ding or a dent at some point... Ok, so for the rest of the pins, you just gotta yank on the panel, moving down to the next pin and giving it a very firm pull. It took a lot more force to break each pin then expected. As you get to the last one, have someone hold the side that's free so that the panel doesn't go flying when you finally get it free.

Step 5: Installing the new panel is super easy. Just align the pins on the new panel and the two screws to their respective holes and press it into place, listening for each pin to make a clicking sound. I suggest putting the nut on the passenger side on first and then reinstalling the tailgate motor power module before moving the the passenger side. You'll then need to power cycle the truck to get the tailgate to unlatch and lower. Then install the nut for the driver side. I tried installing the nut with the tailgate up and dropped it into the tailgate (which would have been easier to do if I wasn't trying to work around the module that was in the way - see note in step 2). My magnetic bolt finder with a light on it couldn't locate the missing nut and I was able to get it into every area on the driver side of the tailgate so am really confused as to where the nut went to). I've got a replacement one on order ($12 + $6 shipping) - it is part number W717509-S300. This comes usually as a four nut set, so had to find a place that would sell me one (rather than pay $50 + shipping).

Step 6: Re-install the panels you removed in step 1.

View attachment 133727
Click to expand...
The tailgate applique looks awesome! Do you mind me asking where you got it done at? I just picked a silver platinum last week and am toying around with doing the same thing.
 
Ama481 said:
The tailgate applique looks awesome! Do you mind me asking where you got it done at? I just picked a silver platinum last week and am toying around with doing the same thing.
Click to expand...
BFN Truckshop is who I went through. They do quality work and the turnaround time was about a month from when I placed the order.

I'll be getting matching door handles and side badges at some point, but gotta save up a bit.

bfntruckshop.com

BFN TRUCK SHOP

Welcome to BFN Truck Shop! Check our our FAQ section for answers to common questions!
bfntruckshop.com bfntruckshop.com
 
Today, took advantage of the nice weather to do a little work on the truck.

First up, the first oil change. Had planned to do it at 1,000 miles, but the road trip to Marble Falls yesterday put me up to 1,600. The oil came out darker than expected, especially when compared to new Mobile 1 fully synthetic. Will eventually switch to Amsoil, but Sam's Club had a discount on it so bought enough for 3 oil changes. Funny thing is that the creeper I have sits a littler taller, putting you about 6" off the ground which didn't leave enough room under the truck, so I had to just shimmy under the truck without it.

Tried using an oil udder for the filter. Overall the product works well and I added a pieces of 3/4 tubing to the end help guide the oil into the pan. The only aspect I found difficult was losening the filter with the oil udder in place. Since I had punched a hole in the filter, it was still dripping oil so couldn't take the oil udder completely away, so ended up holding it under the filter while I took a wrench to it.

Also got to install the Sthalbus oil drain valve kit. Intesting that the screw part that threads into the oil pan is about 1/2 the length of the OEM plug. Install was pretty straight forward. Reading the directions, the Sthalbus prefers that the oil be at operating temp, thankfully the hose makes it so you don't have to worry about getting burned by hot oil.

20231105_111525.webp
 
DTX2023Tremor said:
Today, took advantage of the nice weather to do a little work on the truck.

First up, the first oil change. Had planned to do it at 1,000 miles, but the road trip to Marble Falls yesterday put me up to 1,600. The oil came out darker than expected, especially when compared to new Mobile 1 fully synthetic. Will eventually switch to Amsoil, but Sam's Club had a discount on it so bought enough for 3 oil changes. Funny thing is that the creeper I have sits a littler taller, putting you about 6" off the ground which didn't leave enough room under the truck, so I had to just shimmy under the truck without it.

Tried using an oil udder for the filter. Overall the product works well and I added a pieces of 3/4 tubing to the end help guide the oil into the pan. The only aspect I found difficult was losening the filter with the oil udder in place. Since I had punched a hole in the filter, it was still dripping oil so couldn't take the oil udder completely away, so ended up holding it under the filter while I took a wrench to it.

Also got to install the Sthalbus oil drain valve kit. Intesting that the screw part that threads into the oil pan is about 1/2 the length of the OEM plug. Install was pretty straight forward. Reading the directions, the Sthalbus prefers that the oil be at operating temp, thankfully the hose makes it so you don't have to worry about getting burned by hot oil.

View attachment 134355
Click to expand...
Glad to see the filter is in an easily accessible area. My 2008 f150 had the most ridiculous filter placement.
 
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