DO NOT BUY A TRANSMISSiON PAN!!!

[AZsurveyor]

I told you to stop flicking the bean, I mean playing with your knob, just literally in another thread
Hopefully, this is just a one off thing, but it's (not as bad as this) instances I've experienced by playing around with drivemodes and why I don't usually move them around. I will only switch to eco mode once I'm on the hwy and already cruising, fuel mileage doesn't magically increase but that mode does soften throttle inputs. (Driving and switching in and out of eco has always caused weird learning issues) Haven't really noticed anything recently with Normal vs T/H, nor if i use EBrake (which modifies my shift schedule with ASAP Tunes - swaps to no skip shifting). Deep Mud/Snow mode is just violent - almost a 1:1 linear throttle input, no throttle lag, 2nd gear start, even the littlest moderate input can smoke up a tire.

Based on our recent discussion, I think this unusual behavior might be due to how I’m operating “the system.” At least I would like to think so...

When I am on the highway, it's one thing, she stays at on set speed while I fix all the word's problem in my head, 5 hours later I reach my destination. If it's hilly or mountainous terrain, I'll enable exhaust brake auto, swap it to tow haul, then once I am back on flat land, revert it back to Normal and EBA off. On really steep descents, I resort to Manual, though only a few stretches of highway in our state call for it.

In the city, I admit I may go a bit overboard. I may go from T/H to slow down at intersections, then to Eco if I know I will be cruising in less than 40MPH streets or when we're on site, I leave it on Eco, as you say - it certainly soften's the throttle and I like that since I know I will be staying under 20MPH for the most part until our job is complete.

If I need an insant boost of juice to jump on the highway, rather than cranking the power knob to 5, I put the drive mode in Mud mode and its a thoroughbred ready to leap from the start line No hesitation, gears executed perfectly, no competition in sight. Sometimes she’s already gunning for 10th gear before I’ve got enough highway, and I have to ease off the pedal.

 

[JTredway]

Based on our recent discussion, I think this unusual behavior might be due to how I’m operating “the system.” At least I would like to think so...

When I am on the highway, it's one thing, she stays at on set speed while I fix all the word's problem in my head, 5 hours later I reach my destination. If it's hilly or mountainous terrain, I'll enable exhaust brake auto, swap it to tow haul, then once I am back on flat land, revert it back to Normal and EBA off. On really steep descents, I resort to Manual, though only a few stretches of highway in our state call for it.

In the city, I admit I may go a bit overboard. I may go from T/H to slow down at intersections, then to Eco if I know I will be cruising in less than 40MPH streets or when we're on site, I leave it on Eco, as you say - it certainly soften's the throttle and I like that since I know I will be staying under 20MPH for the most part until our job is complete.

If I need an insant boost of juice to jump on the highway, rather than cranking the power knob to 5, I put the drive mode in Mud mode and its a thoroughbred ready to leap from the start line No hesitation, gears executed perfectly, no competition in sight. Sometimes she’s already gunning for 10th gear before I’ve got enough highway, and I have to ease off the pedal.

Try the next week or so WITHOUT using ECO, use all the other modes but eco; see if this helps clear it up. My personal experiences have always had the trans doing weird dumb shit actually driving around in eco (plus, it does it's damndest to get to the highest gear possible as fast as possible).

 

[Fatawan]

Based on the suggestions in this thread, it's looking like that is possibly the best alternative—the 7.3 pan from PPE. It just got moved to the top of my priority list.

I appreciate your insight about the valve body—thanks for bringing that up.

She’s got 80K on the clock.

Maybe go ask on this Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/1467950410726145/posts/1630008967853621/ or just go to the WPdiesel website https://www.wp-developments.com/powerstroke-performance and ask Ethan

 

[Apples]

Try the next week or so WITHOUT using ECO

Was about to add that, yes, in Eco mode in my gas truck the shift points are lowered. I do not use it much, opting instead for Normal then Tow/Haul when towing, which is much of my interstate travel almost monthly.

I am in Manual mode (called from the shift lever) constantly. I mix Drive and Manual all the time.

These are only digital "maps" for the transmission valvebody solenoids, so there's very little we might do to harm our transmissions due to switching modes. The other way is from infrequent fluid/filter changes or none at all (thinking of Ford's recommended 150,000-mile intervals!).

All modern digitally-controlled, electronic servo-controlled trans, especially, will live longer in clean fluid. Carbon is in the friction materials (clutch plates) and every shift will shed such. Carbon also conducts electricity... (this was a giant problem in Ford's 6R80 "lead frame" saga).

The real damage is from an internally-leaking valvebody, one that was mass produced using the least expensive parts/pistons, etc...

NextGen is just one company that offers improved valvebodies but in my experience they go about it the best way, and imho they are the premier choice. A bad VB can screw up a good transmission mechanically.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Was about to add that, yes, in Eco mode in my gas truck the shift points are lowered. I do not use it much, opting instead for Normal then Tow/Haul when towing, which is much of my interstate travel almost monthly.

I am in Manual mode (called from the shift lever) constantly. I mix Drive and Manual all the time.

These are only digital "maps" for the transmission valvebody solenoids, so there's very little we might do to harm our transmissions due to switching modes. The other way is from infrequent fluid/filter changes or none at all (thinking of Ford's recommended 150,000-mile intervals!).

All modern digitally-controlled, electronic servo-controlled trans, especially, will live longer in clean fluid. Carbon is in the friction materials (clutch plates) and every shift will shed such. Carbon also conducts electricity... (this was a giant problem in Ford's 6R80 "lead frame" saga).

The real damage is from an internally-leaking valvebody, one that was mass produced using the least expensive parts/pistons, etc...

NextGen is just one company that offers improved valvebodies but in my experience they go about it the best way, and imho they are the premier choice. A bad VB can screw up a good transmission mechanically.

I haven’t done the first transmission service yet, but it’s definitely imminent at this point.

I’m curious to see what the fluid looks like after dropping or drilling the pan.

I appreciate the two cents of insight.

 

[OmahaBravo]

haven’t done the first transmission service yet, but it’s definitely imminent at this point.

I’m curious to see what the fluid looks like after dropping or drilling the pan.

I appreciate the two cents of insight.

If you can drill it, do that. Itll make a far less mess than dropping the pan when she's full.

I know you're against the larger pans but one plus i mentioned in my build thread is that youll have more fluid and it'll be in the pan. This means when you fill it up, your total capacity will be more fresh fluid than old.

Speaking of tranny service, my new pan is still in the box

 

[AZsurveyor]

If you can drill it, do that. Itll make a far less mess than dropping the pan when she's full.

I know you're against the larger pans but one plus i mentioned in my build thread is that youll have more fluid and it'll be in the pan. This means when you fill it up, your total capacity will be more fresh fluid than old.

Speaking of tranny service, my new pan is still in the box

I’m not concerned about two extra quarts—it’s the two extra gallons that seem unnecessary, but what do I know at the end of the day? Honestly, I’m not looking forward to this maintenance job either.

 

[AZsurveyor]

I finally bit the bullet and went with an AFE Trans Pan, which is advertised as 4 quarts over stock.

I had my eye on the PPE, with its 5-quart capacity over stock, but it’s temporarily unavailable and I can't put off this service any longer.

With a pan drop and the extra 4 quarts, it looks like I’ll need about 12 quarts to get it back up to the fill level.

 

[Toxophilite]

I finally bit the bullet and went with an AFE Trans Pan, which is advertised as 4 quarts over stock.

I had my eye on the PPE, with its 5-quart capacity over stock, but it’s temporarily unavailable and I can't put off this service any longer.

With a pan drop and the extra 4 quarts, it looks like I’ll need about 12 quarts to get it back up to the fill level.

Do you know how much lower than stock the AFE pan sits? Curious if it will fit if you have a skid plate.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Do you know how much lower than stock the AFE pan sits? Curious if it will fit if you have a skid plate.

From my research, this pan holds the least amount of extra fluid and isn’t one of those “deep” pans often advertised to hold 8 quarts over stock.

I remember seeing measurements comparing the stock pan to a skid plate, and if I recall correctly, there were a couple of inches to spare but I would have to dig up some posts to proof that.

I do know that stock pans hang about 4 inches from the flange where they mount to the transmission.

Planning this has been quite a bit of work, and I still don’t have the fluid, filter, or pump yet.

Honestly, I might need to take time off work because a weekend just isn’t enough to get everything together and tackle the job—especially since I’m planning to do the rear diff and transfer case at the same time.

Anybody want to take a lucky guess what I'll be doing on a long memorial day weekend?

THIS!

I am soo overdue, this is priority over anything at this point.

 

[Dude]

Mag hytech on both of our 22

 

[AZsurveyor]

Mag hytech on both of our 22

I opted for the smallest of the deeper pans that I could find.

 

[Toxophilite]

I opted for the smallest of the deeper pans that I could find.

Will you please take a quick measurement of the depth difference of the OEM vs AFE pan while you’re in there changing it next weekend and post it. It sounds like this would work with my skid plate, but it will be nice to know for sure.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Will you please take a quick measurement of the depth difference of the OEM vs AFE pan while you’re in there changing it next weekend and post it. It sounds like this would work with my skid plate, but it will be nice to know for sure.

Count on it , Bo! It is an honor after how generous you have been.

Which skid plate are you using?

I've got my eyes set on Talon’s and will likely go for it next, once this pan is confirmed to work.

 

[Toxophilite]

I am using the Juggernaut one. I looked at all of them and decided that the Juggernaut was the best for my needs. I still want to add the ASFIR front plate to cover the steering linkage.

 

[Alpoba]

Whew, thank goodness it's just for the diesel guys.

I’m with godzilla crue on this one

 

[Rich1961]

The latest from Banks on the 10R140 Transmission pan. Looks like an additional 5 quarts.

 

[Jack.]

Does the bank pans work with on 7.3L gas trucks?

 

[Rich1961]

Pretty sure in the video that it was only for the 6.7 trucks.

 

[JTredway]

Does the bank pans work with on 7.3L gas trucks?

I dont think so, i think the 6.7 and 7.3 pans are essentially the same bc someone used a 7.3 pan on a 6.7 for the less increase in capacity but the problem going the other way around is the 7.3 pan is "smaller" in capacity due to the depression in the pan for the Y pipe that crosses over for the exhaust where the 6.7 exhaust doesnt have a driveside bank of exhaust to consider.