DO NOT BUY A TRANSMISSiON PAN!!!

[Apples]

Ah. Thank you!

YouTube's Flying Wrenches mentions here and there that Ford has improved that drum at least w/ hard anodizing, and where a bushing used to "walk" then ruin oiling in that area there is now a machined lip to retain that bush under severe service... so the newer drum is offered as a retrofit for overhauls. Maybe that's why NGD no longer offers it?

 

[Cortez1521]

Just to return to the original topic,I have a 2023 6.7 Tremor. I have waited for 30 k miles to look to replace the plastic transmission pan with a metal one. Over the last couple of years there have been additional aftermarket pans, as well as folks who have experienced the gigantic replacement pans. What is the current best replacement for the transmission pan? Is there a proven one that is closest to stock capacity and made out of a proven metal casting process with good QC? Or do I just get the gigantic PPE?

 

[The Evil Twin]

Just to return to the original topic,I have a 2023 6.7 Tremor. I have waited for 30 k miles to look to replace the plastic transmission pan with a metal one. Over the last couple of years there have been additional aftermarket pans, as well as folks who have experienced the gigantic replacement pans. What is the current best replacement for the transmission pan? Is there a proven one that is closest to stock capacity and made out of a proven metal casting process with good QC? Or do I just get the gigantic PPE?

Get the gasser version from PPE.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Just to return to the original topic,I have a 2023 6.7 Tremor. I have waited for 30 k miles to look to replace the plastic transmission pan with a metal one. Over the last couple of years there have been additional aftermarket pans, as well as folks who have experienced the gigantic replacement pans. What is the current best replacement for the transmission pan? Is there a proven one that is closest to stock capacity and made out of a proven metal casting process with good QC? Or do I just get the gigantic PPE?

This is a six page thread asking your same question.

 

[Dude]

Out of curiosity how are you liking the nex gen valve upgrade?

It helped smother shifts
Less clunking
Just note when 1st installed
Trans goes thru a relearn
Takes about 1k miles for it to get smart again lol

Pics of original parts
Not much to kit

 

[JTredway]

It helped smother shifts
Less clunking
Just note when 1st installed
Trans goes thru a relearn
Takes about 1k miles for it to get smart again lol

Pics of original parts
Not much to kit

this is awesome, part of me just wants to buy the $3.5k drop in swap but suncoast has an upgraded valvebody for less than half so I am curious how many more improvements are in NGD over SC.

 

[Dude]

this is awesome, part of me just wants to buy the $3.5k drop in swap but suncoast has an upgraded valvebody for less than half so I am curious how many more improvements are in NGD over SC.

I live close to Nex gen
Visited factory met owner
Like them so bought the kits

 

[Dude]

this is awesome, part of me just wants to buy the $3.5k drop in swap but suncoast has an upgraded valvebody for less than half so I am curious how many more improvements are in NGD over SC.

Carbon kit from Nex gen is around 600.00
Call Nate the owner
He will talk your ear off

 

[deathfromafar17]

Heat is bad - 30 years ago this was true. Today not so much. Todays trans are far more complicated and designed to run at higher temps. And they are much better at controlling their temps with valves and coolers. This reminds me of the other thread on adding ATF to your diesel. It's old school thinking.

Adding more fluid to the pan is a great way to sell a produce to a lot of uneducated old school people. That might seem a little harsh, but all these companies are out to make money. They all hype up the supposed benefits. Is it going to hurt your truck, probably not. But it will hurt your wallet. Colder oil in the pan doesn't change the regulated temp inside the trans. Could you go longer between oil change, sure, but that's not a big advantage since the best maintenance is to just change your oil frequently. And doesn't justify the cost.

Anyway, getting a bit off topic now. Why doesn't anyone just sell a cheap, same size, metal pan with a drain plug. That is what we really need.
The reason they don't make one - it wouldn't sell. There's no hype, it's not extreme.
I know, lets make a ginormous pan with a wing. All the squated boys will buy that.

Squat to drive = squat to pee

 

[Apples]

Why'd Ford go with 8 quarts of oil for the sump of both the 5.0 Coyote - and - the 7.3 Godzilla?

Because more oil is better.

Take a hike, why don'tchas.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Since we're on the topic of upgraded valve bodies, my truck got hung on 4th gear when coming to a full stop but not after going through 57 1/4 seconds of cold sweats and nerving panics.

At first, I didn’t notice, but when I tried to get moving, it felt like it was in neutral. Confused, I shifted to N, dropped it back to D, heard the transmission engage normally, but still nothing. Trying to stay sane while imagining every potential 10R140 problem going through my mind at an astronomical speed, I took a deep breath and told myself, chill and think thoroughly. To my surprise, it moved, but felt sluggish—like trying to take off in a high gear with too tall of a ratio but again... I wasn't fully aware of what was happening since I've got traffic behind me, all while trying to cross an intersection safely.

I make it across the intersection, still confused, until I glanced at the gear indicator and saw it was in 4, even though I was only going 3 MPH. Then it all clicked -- it's been on 4 the entire time, of course things are now starting to add up but the question is why? Regardless, I pulled over onto the shoulder and noticed how ths time, the transmission does drop from 4 to 2, then 1, and I came to a complete stop. I knew this time I’d be able to accelerate, she's back with me, and I head to my destination without any repercussions.

Totally puzzled, I called my mechanic, also confused, has me come by to scan for any codes. To our surprise—nothing, zero, nada. We then phoned a local transmission guru, but even he was stumped since he hasn’t worked much with the 10R. He suggested the issue might be a stuck valve body, something he’s seen often with the 6R140, but shocked at the fact that it didn't trigger any codes.

My mechanic mentioned he’d contact another transmission expert out of Pennsylvania, though I can’t recall the company’s name—it wasn’t Suncoast or NextGen. I’m thinking I might get more answers from the forums than from him, and I was a bit surprised that even after six years of the 10R being around, there’s still so little known about it.

@JTredway as mentioned in another dicussion between us, I do cycle through the drive modes quite often, could this potentially be the case where the computer didn't fully come back to its mode. I wish I could recall the sequence of modes I went through prior to this strange behavior but it may be myself, that could be confusing the brain? Just throwing that out there now, since I don't recall seeing this discussed previously. Lastly, I don't even recall what drive mode I was in but if I had to guess, it was Tow Haul.

 

[Dude]

Call Nate or Tyler at Nex gen
He will give the answer to your pending nightmare

 

[AZsurveyor]

Call Nate or Tyler at Nex gen
He will give the answer to your pending nightmare

Wasn't sure how reputable they are but I will probe them, props for the insight.

 

[Dude]

Here you go click to expand

 

[Dude]

Wasn't sure how reputable they are but I will probe them, props for the insight.

I’m running two of his kits
In both our 22 SD working well so far

 

[JTredway]

Since we're on the topic of upgraded valve bodies, my truck got hung on 4th gear when coming to a full stop but not after going through 57 1/4 seconds of cold sweats and nerving panics.

At first, I didn’t notice, but when I tried to get moving, it felt like it was in neutral. Confused, I shifted to N, dropped it back to D, heard the transmission engage normally, but still nothing. Trying to stay sane while imagining every potential 10R140 problem going through my mind at an astronomical speed, I took a deep breath and told myself, chill and think thoroughly. To my surprise, it moved, but felt sluggish—like trying to take off in a high gear with too tall of a ratio but again... I wasn't fully aware of what was happening since I've got traffic behind me, all while trying to cross an intersection safely.

I make it across the intersection, still confused, until I glanced at the gear indicator and saw it was in 4, even though I was only going 3 MPH. Then it all clicked -- it's been on 4 the entire time, of course things are now starting to add up but the question is why? Regardless, I pulled over onto the shoulder and noticed how ths time, the transmission does drop from 4 to 2, then 1, and I came to a complete stop. I knew this time I’d be able to accelerate, she's back with me, and I head to my destination without any repercussions.

Totally puzzled, I called my mechanic, also confused, has me come by to scan for any codes. To our surprise—nothing, zero, nada. We then phoned a local transmission guru, but even he was stumped since he hasn’t worked much with the 10R. He suggested the issue might be a stuck valve body, something he’s seen often with the 6R140, but shocked at the fact that it didn't trigger any codes.

My mechanic mentioned he’d contact another transmission expert out of Pennsylvania, though I can’t recall the company’s name—it wasn’t Suncoast or NextGen. I’m thinking I might get more answers from the forums than from him, and I was a bit surprised that even after six years of the 10R being around, there’s still so little known about it.

@JTredway as mentioned in another dicussion between us, I do cycle through the drive modes quite often, could this potentially be the case where the computer didn't fully come back to its mode. I wish I could recall the sequence of modes I went through prior to this strange behavior but it may be myself, that could be confusing the brain? Just throwing that out there now, since I don't recall seeing this discussed previously. Lastly, I don't even recall what drive mode I was in but if I had to guess, it was Tow Haul.

could be, 10r140 is batshit crazy sometimes, I haven't had it in a while (since ASAP tuning) but I use to get this weird ass dead pedal confusion at these two intersections (which sounds like yours) it's happened at others but I've triggered this scenario a few times always at these two intersections.

Goes something like you're waiting to turn left across traffic, see a gap coming but not ready to fully commit, but you've given it throttle while still straight to move into the middle of the intersection in prep to whip it left and shoot a gap, truck seems to do its 1-3 shift, you're still inching forward and then you give it gas and it's like the trans was already ready to go say to 4th, and now it needs to go to second, and is in this weird "ahhhh wtf i dont know what to do state", which is scary bc at this point you're actually turned left across traffic, cars are coming, and you needed to shoot the gap. then it like drops to 1st or second bc you're having a micro heart attack and now ive went full fred flintstone on the skinny pedal.... trans bottoms out on lowest gear with tire smoke and tire squeal but safely on the otherside.

During the "aaahhhhhh wtf state" it's almost like he pedal is dead, or you're lugging in too high of a gear, with TC locked and just bound up by hardware and software limitations.

 

[AZsurveyor]

could be, 10r140 is batshit crazy sometimes, I haven't had it in a while (since ASAP tuning) but I use to get this weird ass dead pedal confusion at these two intersections (which sounds like yours) it's happened at others but I've triggered this scenario a few times always at these two intersections.

Goes something like you're waiting to turn left across traffic, see a gap coming but not ready to fully commit, but you've given it throttle while still straight to move into the middle of the intersection in prep to whip it left and shoot a gap, truck seems to do its 1-3 shift, you're still inching forward and then you give it gas and it's like the trans was already ready to go say to 4th, and now it needs to go to second, and is in this weird "ahhhh wtf i dont know what to do state", which is scary bc at this point you're actually turned left across traffic, cars are coming, and you needed to shoot the gap. then it like drops to 1st or second bc you're having a micro heart attack and now ive went full fred flintstone on the skinny pedal.... trans bottoms out on lowest gear with tire smoke and tire squeal but safely on the otherside.

During the "aaahhhhhh wtf state" it's almost like he pedal is dead, or you're lugging in too high of a gear, with TC locked and just bound up by hardware and software limitations.

What a vivid description of that moment—I could picture it play by play and yours seems to be a little more different, which I have also experienced it before, but yesterday's even was sure puzzling, at the very least..

I just got off the phone with Tyler, and he advised against trying to diagnose an unknown issue with a valve body upgrade. He mentioned they’re no longer in the transmission-building business due to headaches and low revenue but gave me another contact in case I need one.

Without seeing the transmission, he couldn’t say for sure, and even codes often don’t point to the exact problem. Still, he noted these “may be” signs that it’s time to start looking for a new transmission.

I don’t have any leaks, but it sure would be great to have the ability to check the fluid level and color just by pulling a dipstick.

 

[Apples]

Sorry to hear of your trans' hiccups, AZ.

Perhaps it's time to consider a pan w/ a drain plug, and an easy way to fill to the correct level (standpipe). You could use the PPE 10R140 pan for the 7.3 Godzilla; it has less volume of extra fluid and is not as deep as the diesel version.

Too, and this is a "what if" scenario... but what if just a valvebody swap can fix what's ailing your rig? rather than a whole new trans, which is going to really want a good valvebody, anyway. IOW, an investment now in a good valvebody can be transferred to any new/overhauled trans should that be required.

Please, how many miles on your truck?

 

[AZsurveyor]

Sorry to hear of your trans' hiccups, AZ.

Perhaps it's time to consider a pan w/ a drain plug, and an easy way to fill to the correct level (standpipe). You could use the PPE 10R140 pan for the 7.3 Godzilla; it has less volume of extra fluid and is not as deep as the diesel version.

Too, and this is a "what if" scenario... but what if just a valvebody swap can fix what's ailing your rig? rather than a whole new trans, which is going to really want a good valvebody, anyway. IOW, an investment now in a good valvebody can be transferred to any new/overhauled trans should that be required.

Please, how many miles on your truck?

Based on the suggestions in this thread, it's looking like that is possibly the best alternative—the 7.3 pan from PPE. It just got moved to the top of my priority list.

I appreciate your insight about the valve body—thanks for bringing that up.

She’s got 80K on the clock.

 

[JTredway]

What a vivid description of that moment—I could picture it play by play and yours seems to be a little more different, which I have also experienced it before, but yesterday's even was sure puzzling, at the very least..

I just got off the phone with Tyler, and he advised against trying to diagnose an unknown issue with a valve body upgrade. He mentioned they’re no longer in the transmission-building business due to headaches and low revenue but gave me another contact in case I need one.

Without seeing the transmission, he couldn’t say for sure, and even codes often don’t point to the exact problem. Still, he noted these “may be” signs that it’s time to start looking for a new transmission.

I don’t have any leaks, but it sure would be great to have the ability to check the fluid level and color just by pulling a dipstick.

I told you to stop flicking the bean, I mean playing with your knob, just literally in another thread
Hopefully, this is just a one off thing, but it's (not as bad as this) instances I've experienced by playing around with drivemodes and why I don't usually move them around. I will only switch to eco mode once I'm on the hwy and already cruising, fuel mileage doesn't magically increase but that mode does soften throttle inputs. (Driving and switching in and out of eco has always caused weird learning issues) Haven't really noticed anything recently with Normal vs T/H, nor if i use EBrake (which modifies my shift schedule with ASAP Tunes - swaps to no skip shifting). Deep Mud/Snow mode is just violent - almost a 1:1 linear throttle input, no throttle lag, 2nd gear start, even the littlest moderate input can smoke up a tire.