CAN I PULL A 5TH WHEEL LUXURY TOY HAULER SAFELY WITH MY TREMOR. CAN I ALSO ADD MY CARLI PINTOP 2.5 KIT

[Birddog]

I thought someone said that when you load the back end of a toy hauler with a 900 lbs Harley or 1,500lbs side by side the weight of the hitch is lessened. I’m also in no way going from experience but from what others say.
Lone Star said he bought the 350G and it advertised the hitch weight of 2,600 lbs but it wound up being 2,800lbs with the generator.
This is things I need to know before finally making my decision. So I need the facts Jack as Bill Murray would say. Thanks Bro giving me something else to investigate. ???????

Yes I do believe the more weight loaded toward the rear of a toy hauler (or any trailer) will lessen the hitch weight. Which also means that not having whatever toy/weight loaded in the back may increase your hitch weight.

Lone Star's reference to 2,800 lbs with the generator is, I'm assuming, his hitch weight as delivered from the factory (Lone Star please correct me in that assumption if it's wrong). After loading it with all their personal gear I'm assuming that number is now different (either higher or lower depending on how much weight and where it was loaded). By personal gear, I mean toys, bikes, tools, camp gear, chairs, cooking equipment, clothes, food, and on and on. Looks like a GD 350G has a payload capacity of approx 3,850 lbs - where that weight is loaded will impact the hitch weight.

Again, this is all based off my understanding that manufacturer website hitch weights are for an unloaded "typical" spec'd camper (or spec sheet weights after it's built). Someone please clarify if they know different, but I was told the hitch weight number they use on a website (or a specific VIN's spec sheet) is not for a fully loaded trailer.

Not trying to steer you one direction or another, just want you to be informed of true weights you may be considering. You may be able to find a chart out on the ol internet where someone has posted accurate "loaded" hitch weights for various makes/floorplans - but again those will vary based on factory options and how the trailer is loaded, but at least it's probably closer to a real world number vs a bare camper sitting on a dealer's lot.

As you already know, there are tons of options, lengths, weights etc - ultimately you've got to decide what your true plans/goals are and find something you're comfortable with.

 

[Iron Man]

Grand design gives you a vin specific sheet with all the weights from when the trailer is complete. My weight on my trucks rear axle increased by 3280lbs from my first weight (truck, me and a 4 year old)
Now my 2nd was WITH approximately 160lbs of 9 year olds added in the backseat, my wife upfront and my Anderson hitch over the axle and a fully packed rig. In the garage was my electric golf cart (weight unknown) a black stone grill, 3 bicycles, and other random crap.

This was helpful. I still need to understand hitch weight. So as long as you don’t go over your axle weights you are fine? Sorry so freakin green. But I will get it. Thanks ?

 

[Iron Man]

Yes I do believe the more weight loaded toward the rear of a toy hauler (or any trailer) will lessen the hitch weight. Which also means that not having whatever toy/weight loaded in the back may increase your hitch weight.

Lone Star's reference to 2,800 lbs with the generator is, I'm assuming, his hitch weight as delivered from the factory (Lone Star please correct me in that assumption if it's wrong). After loading it with all their personal gear I'm assuming that number is now different (either higher or lower depending on how much weight and where it was loaded). By personal gear, I mean toys, bikes, tools, camp gear, chairs, cooking equipment, clothes, food, and on and on. Looks like a GD 350G has a payload capacity of approx 3,850 lbs - where that weight is loaded will impact the hitch weight.

Again, this is all based off my understanding that manufacturer website hitch weights are for an unloaded "typical" spec'd camper (or spec sheet weights after it's built). Someone please clarify if they know different, but I was told the hitch weight number they use on a website (or a specific VIN's spec sheet) is not for a fully loaded trailer.

Not trying to steer you one direction or another, just want you to be informed of true weights you may be considering. You may be able to find a chart out on the ol internet where someone has posted accurate "loaded" hitch weights for various makes/floorplans - but again those will vary based on factory options and how the trailer is loaded, but at least it's probably closer to a real world number vs a bare camper sitting on a dealer's lot.

As you already know, there are tons of options, lengths, weights etc - ultimately you've got to decide what your true plans/goals are and find something you're comfortable with.

Yeah. It’s starting to make sense. Thanks for this. ????

 

[soulezoo]

This was helpful. I still need to understand hitch weight. So as long as you don’t go over your axle weights you are fine? Sorry so freakin green. But I will get it. Thanks ?

No worries, we weren't all born with knowledge and there's a lot of good advice here.
Seriously, the #1 concern you should have is tire load rating. Then axle load rating. And the springs have to handle the load too. The brakes have to be able to stop you. Don't fall for the idea that because the trailer has its own brakes, you're good. That monstrosity behind you is gonna want to push you places you don't want to go.
Bottom line, you have a very capable truck but don't push the limits too hard.
I remember at a truck stop guys were asking this dude about his CJ5 pulling a little 24' TT. His hubris told the other dudes "man, I gotta built Chevy 400 small block putting out 375 hp, and it'll tow anything. Later that day, Mr. CJ5 couldn't make a corner in a canyon road and that little TT pushed him over the edge. Luckily, a piece of guard rail caught the rig and kept him from total disaster. This was early 80's.

 

[2020Tremor]

How many people? Just you and the wife? Go smaller/lighter.

We have a Jayco Eagle H/T 264BHOK. They make a 5th wheel version. Plenty of room for me, wifey, 6 year old daughter and dog.

With something under 35' you'll be able to get into more spots and it will be easier to maneuver.
View attachment 25548
View attachment 25549

Agree bigger is not always better especially with some places and length limits.

 

[Jrod250]

This was helpful. I still need to understand hitch weight. So as long as you don’t go over your axle weights you are fine? Sorry so freakin green. But I will get it. Thanks ?

not exactly, but you definitely don’t want to overload the axle. If you weighed your truck then added JUST the 5th wheel and weighed it again, the increase rear axle number would be your pin weight. Minus the hitch. My numbers aren’t apples to apples for pin weight because I had added my family to the truck

 

[ccw]

Seriously, the #1 concern you should have is tire load rating. Then axle load rating. And the springs have to handle the load too. The brakes have to be able to stop you. Don't fall for the idea that because the trailer has its own brakes, you're good. That monstrosity behind you is gonna want to push you places you don't want to go.

Big +1 to this. GVWR captures the truck as a whole, but individual tire and axle weight ratings are more important when you're bumping up against limits, or severely loading the rear of the truck in particular.

Remember that for tires they're only rated at their maximum when at maximum pressure. As pressure goes down, so does the load they can safely carry at speed. In the case of the stock Duratracs on the tremor, their max is 80 PSI.

 

[Iron Man]

With the Firestone Ride Rite Red Label 7,500lbs Air Ride System this will definitely help but will not get increase truck weight limit #s.
I will definitely install this. I already have this with an ARB on board air compressor. Just need to figure out everything first. I will put some new tires and wheels. If I go 5er I will just get better 35” tires.

 

[Iron Man]

No worries, we weren't all born with knowledge and there's a lot of good advice here.
Seriously, the #1 concern you should have is tire load rating. Then axle load rating. And the springs have to handle the load too. The brakes have to be able to stop you. Don't fall for the idea that because the trailer has its own brakes, you're good. That monstrosity behind you is gonna want to push you places you don't want to go.
Bottom line, you have a very capable truck but don't push the limits too hard.
I remember at a truck stop guys were asking this dude about his CJ5 pulling a little 24' TT. His hubris told the other dudes "man, I gotta built Chevy 400 small block putting out 375 hp, and it'll tow anything. Later that day, Mr. CJ5 couldn't make a corner in a canyon road and that little TT pushed him over the edge. Luckily, a piece of guard rail caught the rig and kept him from total disaster. This was early 80's.

I also put in Power Stop break set up for front and rear with new pads and rotors before I took ownership from dealer when mine was built. Yeah I was wanting to be able to stop my heavy Tremor when I needed too. You are right with having maybe 17k behind me
??????????

 

[Jrod250]

With the Firestone Ride Rite Red Label 7,500lbs Air Ride System this will definitely help but will not get increase truck weight limit #s.
I will definitely install this. I already have this with an ARB on board air compressor. Just need to figure out everything first. I will put some new tires and wheels. If I go 5er I will just get better 35” tires.

View attachment 25670View attachment 25671Let’s get you more confused now. Every modification you make to the truck adds weight to the truck, which eats up payload capacity. Heavier tires, heavier wheels, lights, compressors etc.

 

[Birddog]

No worries, we weren't all born with knowledge and there's a lot of good advice here.
Seriously, the #1 concern you should have is tire load rating. Then axle load rating. And the springs have to handle the load too. The brakes have to be able to stop you. Don't fall for the idea that because the trailer has its own brakes, you're good. That monstrosity behind you is gonna want to push you places you don't want to go.
Bottom line, you have a very capable truck but don't push the limits too hard.
I remember at a truck stop guys were asking this dude about his CJ5 pulling a little 24' TT. His hubris told the other dudes "man, I gotta built Chevy 400 small block putting out 375 hp, and it'll tow anything. Later that day, Mr. CJ5 couldn't make a corner in a canyon road and that little TT pushed him over the edge. Luckily, a piece of guard rail caught the rig and kept him from total disaster. This was early 80's.

Big +1 to this. GVWR captures the truck as a whole, but individual tire and axle weight ratings are more important when you're bumping up against limits, or severely loading the rear of the truck in particular.

Remember that for tires they're only rated at their maximum when at maximum pressure. As pressure goes down, so does the load they can safely carry at speed. In the case of the stock Duratracs on the tremor, their max is 80 PSI.

Definitely agree.

On another somewhat related note, around my part of the world one of the first things DPS looks at are tires / tire ratings - they couldn't care less what a payload sticker on a truck or trailer claims if you don't have the tires to handle it.

 

[Iron Man]

 

[Iron Man]

Yeah I’m fighting a losing battle. I was always a brawler though. Truthfully. LOL.

 

[mds2004]

Definitely agree.

On another somewhat related note, around my part of the world one of the first things DPS looks at are tires / tire ratings - they couldn't care less what a payload sticker on a truck or trailer claims if you don't have the tires to handle it.

This is what a DOT CHP that we ride SxS's with says. People are always modding their trucks with aftermarket parts that affect various numbers, so he really mays attention mostly to tire ratings and if you have an A-class license and not so strict on the payload. Obviously, you don't tow a heavy 5th wheel with a Raptor but he says they are more lenient for situations like Iron Man is in.

 

[soulezoo]

Iron Man, just my humble opinion here, and only worth what you paid for it, the fivers are definitely doable but I think you have to set your sights a little lower on what you're getting. You have posted fivers that are, in my opinion, dually only. They sure are nice and all that, but you'll find they are a pain in the ass to tow anywhere but the interstate, you have to plan ahead carefully for destinations as you'll be severely limited due to length and once you do get there, you'll find that you won't be able to enjoy your features like patios. Side patios are mostly a waste IMHO as RV parks are narrowly spaced so the times you'll get to actually use it will be limited. Pulling that big of a rig you have to really plan ahead on how you drive. A big parking lot at Walmart you may not be able to negotiate. You may have to find a parking spot 6 blocks away to go to McDonald's. You will be limited to truck stops for fuel.
Think about all those things before pulling the trigger. Your goals are achievable, but I really think you need to set your sights lower. If anything else, you need to get some experience doing these things before jumping off the deep end. It's not always that easy. I've been RVing since 1982 and I still learn stuff.
A lot of those big rigs you see are single destination rigs, or living rigs. Like around here, sand mountain is the destination where you have all the space in the world to boondock. But go to a state park? Ain't happening.

 

[Jrod250]

Iron Man, just my humble opinion here, and only worth what you paid for it, the fivers are definitely doable but I think you have to set your sights a little lower on what you're getting. You have posted fivers that are, in my opinion, dually only. They sure are nice and all that, but you'll find they are a pain in the ass to tow anywhere but the interstate, you have to plan ahead carefully for destinations as you'll be severely limited due to length and once you do get there, you'll find that you won't be able to enjoy your features like patios. Side patios are mostly a waste IMHO as RV parks are narrowly spaced so the times you'll get to actually use it will be limited. Pulling that big of a rig you have to really plan ahead on how you drive. A big parking lot at Walmart you may not be able to negotiate. You may have to find a parking spot 6 blocks away to go to McDonald's. You will be limited to truck stops for fuel.
Think about all those things before pulling the trigger. Your goals are achievable, but I really think you need to set your sights lower. If anything else, you need to get some experience doing these things before jumping off the deep end. It's not always that easy. I've been RVing since 1982 and I still learn stuff.
A lot of those big rigs you see are single destination rigs, or living rigs. Like around here, sand mountain is the destination where you have all the space in the world to boondock. But go to a state park? Ain't happening.

Very true. It seems like more often then not we don’t fit in the site that we are assigned. Even though the park knows that we are 39.5 feet long. They often say “that sight is 60 feet deep” which it might be, but there isn’t enough room for the swing to get backed in.

 

[Iron Man]

Iron Man, just my humble opinion here, and only worth what you paid for it, the fivers are definitely doable but I think you have to set your sights a little lower on what you're getting. You have posted fivers that are, in my opinion, dually only. They sure are nice and all that, but you'll find they are a pain in the ass to tow anywhere but the interstate, you have to plan ahead carefully for destinations as you'll be severely limited due to length and once you do get there, you'll find that you won't be able to enjoy your features like patios. Side patios are mostly a waste IMHO as RV parks are narrowly spaced so the times you'll get to actually use it will be limited. Pulling that big of a rig you have to really plan ahead on how you drive. A big parking lot at Walmart you may not be able to negotiate. You may have to find a parking spot 6 blocks away to go to McDonald's. You will be limited to truck stops for fuel.
Think about all those things before pulling the trigger. Your goals are achievable, but I really think you need to set your sights lower. If anything else, you need to get some experience doing these things before jumping off the deep end. It's not always that easy. I've been RVing since 1982 and I still learn stuff.
A lot of those big rigs you see are single destination rigs, or living rigs. Like around here, sand mountain is the destination where you have all the space in the world to boondock. But go to a state park? Ain't happening.

Watched all Utube videos on the travel trailer toy haulers. We would go with the GD 31G as director a hitch weight of 1600 and is 36’.
My wife and I then watched the 320G 5er and it makes all the sense in the world. It has a hitch weight (unloaded Yada Yada Yada) of 2,300 and is 36’ long.
We are going to make the 320G 5th wheel work for us. Overall length when hooked up should be 3’ shorter since it sits in the bed. Self leveling system, snd King size bed option. This seems to be the choice for us.
Plus Lone Star has a 350G that’s 2’ longer and a bit heavier. Granted I believe he has the 7.3. I’m sorry to have put you all through my madness of flip flops. I thank you for your advice, wisdom, and views. It all made me really get more information that I had no clue about.
So mother fuckin 5er it is. Until tomorrow morning when I rethink everything for the 5,000 time. LOL ?
Donny Who Can’t Think Straight, OUT !!!!??????????
Wifey wants to chill and begged me to give it a rest for the rest of the night (weekend)

 

[soulezoo]

Watched all Utube videos on the travel trailer toy haulers. We would go with the GD 31G as director a hitch weight of 1600 and is 36’.
My wife and I then watched the 320G 5er and it makes all the sense in the world. It has a hitch weight (unloaded Yada Yada Yada) of 2,300 and is 36’ long.
We are going to make the 320G 5th wheel work for us. Overall length when hooked up should be 3’ shorter since it sits in the bed. Self leveling system, snd King size bed option. This seems to be the choice for us.
Plus Lone Star has a 350G that’s 2’ longer and a bit heavier. Granted I believe he has the 7.3. I’m sorry to have put you all through my madness of flip flops. I thank you for your advice, wisdom, and views. It all made me really get more information that I had no clue about.
So mugger fuckin 5er it is. Until tomorrow morning when I rethink everything for the 5,000 time. LOL ?
Donny Who Can’t Think Straight, OUT !!!!??????????
Wifey wants to chill and god me to give it a rest for the rest of the night (weekend)

View attachment 25686

Now those two choices make more sense. Good luck!

 

[Jrod250]

I’m putting this out there for you Don and maybe others in the region can too. If you want to come 4hrs north we can hook my 350m up and take the whole thing to the scales snd see where your at.
Maybe some others closer to you could do the same with their 5er haulers

 

[Iron Man]

I’m putting this out there for you Don and maybe others in the region can too. If you want to come 4hrs north we can hook my 350m up and take the whole thing to the scales snd see where your at.
Maybe some others closer to you could do the same with their 5er haulers

JRod thanks brother man. That is such a great offer. I would need to get my air ride set up first. So maybe down the road. You are a great friend and a great dude. I would like to meet and greet you brother. I want to meet a lot of my friends on this Forum. This Tremor Family of ours ROCKS ?????????
Don ?