Vecman's Build - Boyhood Dreams Realized!

Lunch Box · Jun 24, 2022

Vecman said:
Got emails back from SPE - we haven’t had any issues with your truck and this kit. They’re sending me another part to try. Great…. I’m just gonna compare it to the original one and see. If it’s the same size, I’m not interested. And even if it’s not, not sure I’m interested in taking the engine apart again. Might have to pay a shop.

Hey Vecman, I was curious when you did the top radiator hose from SPE, do you have any tips to watch out for, maybe do different? Do you remove the radiator side or the thermostate first. Any tips for me ? Thanks

Vecman · Jun 24, 2022

Lunch Box said:
Hey Vecman, I was curious when you did the top radiator hose from SPE, do you have any tips to watch out for, maybe do different? Do you remove the radiator side or the thermostate first. Any tips for me ? Thanks

I did it while putting the engine all back together. As long as you drain the coolant a bit, doesn’t really matter which side you start on. Just take it out, and put the new one in. I’d consider replacing the actual thermostat at the same time also.

Rooster · Jun 25, 2022

Brooks65 said:
I have the same issue with the back seat release. I can sometimes get the latch to line up and hold them other times I fight it forever. Luckily I leave my rear seats up most of the time so I don’t worry too much. But it would be nice to figure it out !

Same here

Rooster · Jun 25, 2022

Vecman said:
View attachment 42626In honor of @BroncoHooves, I also installed the tailgate keeper security thing. But, as an experiment, I color matched mine. I think it turned out great

Which security thing are you using?

Rooster · Jun 25, 2022

Vecman said:
No. Lol. I took them out, wrapped them in plastic. I was gonna do the cardboard like you did, but couldn’t find a piece I liked! Haha

So glad I did this vs buy the Warns. Just don’t need to replace perfectly good lockers right now - since I just replaced a perfectly good suspension/wheels/tires. lol

What paint did you use for the hubs? Looks great!

Rooster · Jun 25, 2022

Vecman said:
Well, it was such a cheap option, just wanted to put it on there. Originally it was to run a generator. But the company I contacted isn’t interested in working with individual clients, only bigger companies. So now it probably will never be used for anything, unless someone decided to do a generator for us little guys. Real Power AC had a 15kW generator that mounts to the frame. I think the option is slick, but they just don’t want to work with customers like us and, due to that, is more than likely cost prohibitive as well. I’m hoping someone pops up with some cool options. I would love something like a small frame mounted generator and then an in-bed interface similar to the F-150 Onboard ProPower setup. That would be great

I got that for the exact same reason, then called Real Power and it was 15k for that setup on the platinum they had

. I gotta quit reading peoples build threads, gonna start off small with the mirror caps then maybe some sound deadening and stereo upgrades. All your stuff worked with the sync for dash unit? For you and @BroncoHooves where did you guys get the mirror caps, do you have a good link for a video removing those? After seeing the difference the boost auto spot lights made I probably need those too. NOT knowing is half the battle when it comes to saving money on here. Half the stuff I want now I never even noticed before lol

Lunch Box · Jun 25, 2022

Vecman said:
I did it while putting the engine all back together. As long as you drain the coolant a bit, doesn’t really matter which side you start on. Just take it out, and put the new one in. I’d consider replacing the actual thermostat at the same time also.

Curious why change the thermostat? Are you meaning a lower temp thermostat? I have read a lower temp stat could hinder a proper regen process.

Vecman · Jun 25, 2022

Lunch Box said:
Curious why change the thermostat? Are you meaning a lower temp thermostat? I have read a lower temp stat could hinder a proper regen process.

Haven’t heard that, but got the SPE thermostat to open at a slightly lower temp to keep the engine cooler.

Vecman · Jun 25, 2022

Rooster said:
Which security thing are you using?

Tailgate keeper is the name of it. Helps prevent tailgate theft

Rooster said:
What paint did you use for the hubs? Looks great!

Steel-it - it was a nice paint to use.

Rooster said:
I got that for the exact same reason, then called Real Power and it was 15k for that setup on the platinum they had. I gotta quit reading peoples build threads, gonna start off small with the mirror caps then maybe some sound deadening and stereo upgrades. All your stuff worked with the sync for dash unit? For you and @BroncoHooves where did you guys get the mirror caps, do you have a good link for a video removing those? After seeing the difference the boost auto spot lights made I probably need those too. NOT knowing is half the battle when it comes to saving money on here. Half the stuff I want now I never even noticed before lol

The mirror caps are from Ford - XLT version, very inexpensive. I have the NAV A2B unit that makes it so you can have full dash functionality with aftermarket stereo components. There’s a YouTube video of PTT A-Rod taking the mirror apart. And there’s a video on boost autos website. @BroncoHooves also talks about it on his thread as well. It’s not bad to do, but yes, I would switch out the lights at the same time if you’re gonna switch the caps anyway.

Lunch Box · Jun 25, 2022

Vecman said:
Haven’t heard that, but got the SPE thermostat to open at a slightly lower temp to keep the engine cooler.

One last question, do you remember the torque specs for the thermostat housing?? Thank you.

Vecman · Jun 25, 2022

Lunch Box said:
One last question, do you remember the torque specs for the thermostat housing?? Thank you.

It’s listed on the SPE installation instructions. I think it’s around 89 ft lbs, but don’t quote me on that

Vecman · Jul 10, 2022

Just added some mpg data on my first 12,000 miles - read it here:

Thread '12,000 mile review of 6.7L MPG data'
https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/12-000-mile-review-of-6-7l-mpg-data.11074/

Vecman · Jul 10, 2022

I added a few creature comfort mods that I will talk about later, and I will do a write-up of the e-venture system soon as well (it’s an incredible system!)

Vecman · Feb 15, 2023

Realized it’s been a while for my build thread. I’ve done quite a bit to my baby since the last post. I will update a bit.

E-venture has been reviewed pretty well on the site, so I won’t go into it much, but I absolutely love the system on my truck. So glad I did it! I have a some mileage updates to my mini-experiment i was running, and I’ll address that later also. Here’s a few quick photos of some additions lately:

Lockable AR mount, prevents trigger access also. Like how it mounted to the seat back rack.

Vecman · Feb 15, 2023

Installed some rock lights by LUX lighting - magnet based. Really easy to install

Vecman · Feb 15, 2023

Vecman · Feb 15, 2023

Biggest project lately has been radio install - HAM and GMRS radios. I have the Midland 575 and the Yaesu FTM 400XDR. I installed the bullet proof diesel third brake light dual antenna mount, and wanted to be able to use each of these radios as needed. I ended up installing the radio units behind the rear driver side passenger seat. There is a steel bar along the bottom of the seat. I used self-tapping screws to mount the mounting plates into these spots. The radios rub the amps a bit when the seat is up or the bottom is folded up. But in normal operation, there is plenty of air space for them to breathe

Vecman · Feb 15, 2023

I mounted the Yaesu head unit in the little cubby in the center console. I don’t use my mag charger at all, so I removed it and put the unit there

Vecman · Feb 15, 2023

I ran mic cables under the center console, cut a small hole behind the rear of the console to take the them under the vinyl flooring, and back to the radios. They are connected to some bulkhead connectors up front.