Vecman's Build - Boyhood Dreams Realized!

[Apples]

I haven't investigated a 120v weatherproof timer yet. I am open to suggestions.

Interested for the reason stated below:

I don't think the NOCO charger will need more time to top off the batteries than the time the heater will need.

Respectfully, I have read (and will if you like look again for it to post it here) that the factory engine block heaters do not need to be powered up for any great amount of time, whereas, ideally, our lead acid AGM batteries love to be kept full (and an AGM type can require hours' long "absorption" charge times).

I think having one 120V power cord to our trucks' front bumper then being able to control the timing of the block heat power would be an excellent thing. Cheers!

 

[Vecman]

Interested for the reason stated below:






Respectfully, I have read (and will if you like look again for it to post it here) that the factory engine block heaters do not need to be powered up for any great amount of time, whereas, ideally, our lead acid AGM batteries love to be kept full (and an AGM type can require hours' long "absorption" charge times).

I think having one 120V power cord to our trucks' front bumper then being able to control the timing of the block heat power would be an excellent thing. Cheers!

I've read most block heaters only need 3-4 hours to reach max effect. Given that I'm driving the truck every day commuting, I think that same 3-4 hours will be long enough to keep my AGM batteries topped off also. I'll keep my eye on it and see. The way I'm setting this up, it wouldn't be too difficult to reach under the bumper and unplug the heater if I wanted to use the charger for the weekend or something like that. I am gonna make sure that I do that, just to give myself some flexibility. But this won't be the norm for sure.

 

[Vecman]

We use these Amazon China/CLone crap at work for production. They work well for the amount of holes we get out of them. We use them in the mill/drill press/mag drills. I haven't attempted drilling with a cordless.

Thanks! I had something like that saved in my cart, but then I opted to go with a step bit as I assumed that would make it a bit easier. Either way, its' been tough. I'm around 1.3 inches - almost there! Haha! But I do wonder if my cordless is the weak link. I have a Dewalt 20v XR max hammer drill, but still

 

[NEOHIO]

Thanks! I had something like that saved in my cart, but then I opted to go with a step bit as I assumed that would make it a bit easier. Either way, its' been tough. I'm around 1.3 inches - almost there! Haha! But I do wonder if my cordless is the weak link. I have a Dewalt 20v XR max hammer drill, but still

You can still use the bit linked. Clamp a 2x4 or other material behind the hole. You need something to guide the saw.
I can't imagine how many batteries you are going to use drilling with a step bit.

 

[Vecman]

You can still use the bit linked. Clamp a 2x4 or other material behind the hole. You need something to guide the saw.
I can't imagine how many batteries you are going to use drilling with a step bit.

Oh, that's a good idea. I bought it anyway, but I was sitting here thinking about how I could stabilize that bit. Yeah, the first battery actually held up pretty well. I just need this hole done man. Such a pain! And then I still have to drill out the smaller screw holes. I don't think the included self tappers are gonna handle the thick steel

 

[Vecman]

Since I was all up in the engine bay, it was time to finally do the CCV delete. Wasn't too bad of a project. The hardest part was getting the dang vent tube over the brake booster and then down and out. That took almost an hour and a lot of lube! Haha! Got it routed down the frame and it vents just in front of the rear tire.

This pic is the best I could do..

I need an engine bay clean up soon. It's gonna be nice to get out of all this dust.