Upfitter Wiring Harness Discussion

[ObservantTexan]

Added to the wait list

 

[Mtbhikernv]

Still watching this and hoping to start hooking up lights! Any update on if we need to get to 50 units to start, or if that has changed?

 

[Cblaxx19]

Still watching this and hoping to start hooking up lights! Any update on if we need to get to 50 units to start, or if that has changed?

i'll look into pricing for producing less than 50 units. it may come with an increase in the sale price some though.

for those that have installed, what feedback do you have that i could try and roll into this next round of units?

Longer leads on the positive legs of each connection?
Longer ground lead?
Are the PTO connections useful or could they be removed? that could offset any cost increase from longer leads or smaller batches.

I appreciate any feedback.

Cory

 

[Mad_Max]

i'll look into pricing for producing less than 50 units. it may come with an increase in the sale price some though.

for those that have installed, what feedback do you have that i could try and roll into this next round of units?

Longer leads on the positive legs of each connection?
Longer ground lead?
Are the PTO connections useful or could they be removed? that could offset any cost increase from longer leads or smaller batches.

I appreciate any feedback.

Cory

Hi Cory,

Firstly - I really love the quality and workmanship on this well thought out harness, I actually love mine and it will make adding accessories and changing around the up fitter switch assignments a breeze in the future. Well done!

Two things I would change would be a little longer ground lead and make 2 versions - one with the PTO connections and one without. I considered cutting the PTO leads to save space / clutter but since they were there I made the connections and taped them off. A non PTO version would save $ on material and labor that could possibly be passed on to the customer.

Thanks again for a great product!

 

[Cblaxx19]

Hi Cory,

Firstly - I really love the quality and workmanship on this well thought out harness, I actually love mine and it will make adding accessories and changing around the up fitter switch assignments a breeze in the future. Well done!

Two things I would change would be a little longer ground lead and make 2 versions - one with the PTO connections and one without. I considered cutting the PTO leads to save space / clutter but since they were there I made the connections and taped them off. A non PTO version would save $ on material and labor that could possibly be passed on to the customer.

Thanks again for a great product!

thank you for the feedback! how much longer of a ground lead? what year truck do you have and where did you ground/where would you have rather grounded?

 

[TRAMPER]

i'll look into pricing for producing less than 50 units. it may come with an increase in the sale price some though.

for those that have installed, what feedback do you have that i could try and roll into this next round of units?

Longer leads on the positive legs of each connection?
Longer ground lead?
Are the PTO connections useful or could they be removed? that could offset any cost increase from longer leads or smaller batches.

I appreciate any feedback.

Cory

Love it, it’s a great kit. Definitely could do without the PTO stuff, I don’t even know how I’d use that if I wanted to. I didn’t hook mine up.

Longer ground would be ok, but I personally didn’t have any trouble there are quite a few grounds up there to grab onto.

Tbh the only thing I didn’t love was those connections…. I’ve used my Milwaukee heat gun and a few different lighters…. I’m just not sure about them…. I’m going to finalize my trigger wire for my compressor tonight and try one again…. They’re just not familiar enough to me.

 

[BroncOh]

Tbh the only thing I didn’t love was those connections…. I’ve used my Milwaukee heat gun and a few different lighters…. I’m just not sure about them…. I’m going to finalize my trigger wire for my compressor tonight and try one again…. They’re just not familiar enough to me.

Slow and steady, minimum heat is the key with those. Too hot/too close and it will melt the outer plastic before the solder fully melts and can allow moisture to get in.

 

[TRAMPER]

Slow and steady, minimum heat is the key with those. Too hot/too close and it will melt the outer plastic before the solder fully melts and can allow moisture to get in.

Is a heat gun or lighter better?

Start in the middle and work out? Focus on the middle first? Again, just not familiar at all to me

 

[Cblaxx19]

Is a heat gun or lighter better?

i don't recommend a lighter. the flame will likely melt the casing before the solder wicks. Heat gun on low setting, dont put it right up against the shrink, keep it a couple inches away.

i admit that they can be a bit tricky to hold in place while also holding a heatgun. I just prefer them for applications that you want a good waterproof connection.

 

[TRAMPER]

i don't recommend a lighter. the flame will likely melt the casing before the solder wicks. Heat gun on low setting, dont put it right up against the shrink, keep it a couple inches away.

i admit that they can be a bit tricky to hold in place while also holding a heatgun. I just prefer them for applications that you want a good waterproof connection.

Ok. I’ll try that tonight and report back.

 

[Slippers]

Those heat shink connectors with solder inside are honestly not great. You're better off using good butt connectors and the correct crimping tool. There is no solder on any of the main wiring in the truck because it introduces a fatigue point. Crimped connectors are much more flexible and vibration resistant.

 

[Mad_Max]

thank you for the feedback! how much longer of a ground lead? what year truck do you have and where did you ground/where would you have rather grounded?

Hi Cory,

I posted a pic on July 15 of my installation in my '22 7.3. I attached the ground wire to a grounding location on the fender. It's not quite long enough to clear the battery so most likely it would have to be disconnected if I needed to replace it. Another 3" of length would allow it to be tucked along the fender clear of the battery using the same grounding location.

 

[TRAMPER]

Those heat shink connectors with solder inside are honestly not great. You're better off using good butt connectors and the correct crimping tool. There is no solder on any of the main wiring in the truck because it introduces a fatigue point. Crimped connectors are much more flexible and vibration resistant.

That’s always how I’ve felt, crimp on butt connection with shrink tubing over has worked for me for decades. This kit came with the solder on ones so I tried them. I put shrink tubing over them anyway when I was done to keep them from flexing.

 

[Alpoba]

I think most are overthinking the connectors, at least these particular ones where they are and shouldn’t be exposed to or collect water. I have mine covered in tesa tape fully with several iterations and in half a year not a drop of water got on the surface of the tape sitting near the battery; it’s got NO chance of getting inside. And when i needed to change connections, i simply got the tape off and made changes in an instant. I wouldn’t go any other way now, but you’re all welcome to continue to overthink your waterproofness.

 

[Slippers]

I wasn't concerned about them being waterproof - all decent butt connectors shrink and seal, and you should run heatshrink over them anyways. There are simply better options than the low temp solder connectors, as discussed previously.

 

[TRAMPER]

Finished up my compressor install tonight and used an entire 5.0aH Milwaukee battery on my heat gun and I still never saw it “melt”. I’m not concerned at all with waterproof. My advice would be butt connectors and shrink wrap every time. I’m actually a little worried about the connections I made with them previously but i guess if they begin to overheat from a poor connection they’ll melt then hahaha.

That would be my advice to the seller, ditch those overly fancy connections just not worth the aggravation. Beside that it went great!!!

Since I only needed the hot wire I cut that shorter and left the black wire as a support for the super thin trigger wire. Melted the connection together (kinda) shrink tubing over that, zip tied the heavy ground wire to them both then covered it all in Tessa tape. Works for me!

 

[Canyon Trekker]

Those heat shink connectors with solder inside are honestly not great. You're better off using good butt connectors and the correct crimping tool. There is no solder on any of the main wiring in the truck because it introduces a fatigue point. Crimped connectors are much more flexible and vibration resistant.

I am not a fan of the soft solder connectors. The solder can make the connection but may not be a very good one. Only time will tell if one fails. Here's a video of one person's test, I don't like the "mechanical" bond, nor the fact that the penetration of solder cannot be determined. Also, note the heat torch that is required. There are other videos as well.

 

[Pmichael]

I tried the solder connectors with no luck. I had some marine crimps I used in my boat and just used those. A little dielectric grease, crimp the connector. Use a torch to shrink the connector tubing, then heat shrink over that. Should be good to go.

 

[Tightlines]

Bumping this up to get exposure or to see if OP has figured out pricing for updated harness.

 

[HeavyAssault]

I've been using a marine style connector that has a sealant of sorts as part of the heat shrink. It's easy to see when you have correctly heated the connector. It changes from a hazy to almost 100% clear, along with the sealant. Once that's done I do a second layer of plain heat shrink in an opposite color to show the location of the connector.