Show me your Starlink mounts (or ones you’ve seen)

[AZsurveyor]

You really haven't found the source of the problem yet and none of the modules may be bad. But I usually like to keep things simple, the fewer components the less likeliness that one of the modules in a chain can fail. If it is not needed, I would eliminate it.

I would eliminate the ZXWATC module, it is in line with another regulator. Hook the power module/regulator, up to the 12V socket that is controlled by the upfitter or spliced into the feed for a hard wire setup. The output of that module (Yellow and Black wires) should be 30V for the SL mini. It's 30V for a 10-28V input.

The ZXWATC module is essentially a low voltage protection switch. So here is the scenario: If the voltage drops below a set voltage level, set by the user, the module will likely turn off. This would protect the battery and possibly the SL.

But the kicker is that the power module is designed to work from 10-28V input. It "is" the regulator and will provide protection so long as the battery never drops below 10V. The ZXWATC is simply an automatic "OFF" switch though it also protects for overvoltage, should those conditions exist. I don't really see a need for it in a vehicle that is running or used intermittently without the truck running. If you were to run it via an external battery that isn't monitored in some manner, I could see its value. (Like running it with a Milwaukee or DeWalt battery, or a prolonged use off grid without running the truck.)

It does look like this is an aftermarket device that SL doesn't necessarily supply.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRFZGWP7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B0DRFZGWP7&pd_rd_w=U27xL&content-id=amzn1.sym.30062d3d-2c31-47f3-af26-55177a669bb5&pf_rd_p=30062d3d-2c31-47f3-af26-55177a669bb5&pf_rd_r=57GWMWFGZE59SNX3AFJW&pd_rd_wg=Vw6Ax&pd_rd_r=e6cd2e4b-5139-4b75-9ff5-a09a7c30d2ac&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

By the way, Milwaukee and DeWalt batteries have built-in shutoff at low voltages to protect the battery.

Thank you for simplifying your explanation to a level suitable for special needs.

This makes complete sense, and I will proceed accordingly.

You don’t know what you don’t know.

You are truly invaluable to this community—absolutely priceless.

 

[ProtonDecay]

Home-made mount hanging off of the rear Yakima arch. 500w solar in front recharges 100Ah from overnight in about three hours midsummer, hoping for full recharge over the course of a day mid-winter. Had this gen 2 dishwasher on this mount since '22 and its held up quite well. Huge improvement in performance over time as more birds in the sky. Has worked well from tip of Baja to the Arctic Ocean.

 

[AZsurveyor]

A quick update to my SL issue @Canyon Trekker, you were spot on—the regulator was indeed the problem. There was power coming into the regulator yet nothing coming out of it so we eliminated it and ran it straight from the ZXWATC module.

That issue is resolved now, but I noticed that my 12V factory "cig" port wasn’t working, even though all the others (in the center console and rear seats) were fine.

We traced it back to the fuse relay box, where we found a blown 20A slotted fuse. This brings me to something another member brought up in a thread recently—fuses!

Seriously, how many different types of fuses are in these rigs? Eight in total!

While I’ve seen many types of fuses, I had never come across a 3-blade fuse before (and trust me, I’ve seen it all ).

A quick trip to the auto store - fail.

There are J case, M case, Standard, Low profile, slotted, micro, mini—it’s crazy!

Now I need to find an assortment of these fuses to keep as spares. Any suggestions? Has anyone come across a good assortment to carry in the truck?

 

[Optimus🤖]

A quick update to my SL issue @Canyon Trekker, you were spot on—the regulator was indeed the problem. There was power coming into the regulator yet nothing coming out of it so we eliminated it and ran it straight from the ZXWATC module.

That issue is resolved now, but I noticed that my 12V factory "cig" port wasn’t working, even though all the others (in the center console and rear seats) were fine.

We traced it back to the fuse relay box, where we found a blown 20A slotted fuse. This brings me to something another member brought up in a thread recently—fuses!

Seriously, how many different types of fuses are in these rigs? Eight in total!

While I’ve seen many types of fuses, I had never come across a 3-blade fuse before (and trust me, I’ve seen it all ).

A quick trip to the auto store - fail.

There are J case, M case, Standard, Low profile, slotted, micro, mini—it’s crazy!

Now I need to find an assortment of these fuses to keep as spares. Any suggestions? Has anyone come across a good assortment to carry in the truck?

SPV Parts 2015-2025 Ford F-150 and Raptor, Ranger, Bronco Essential Fuse pack (OEM Name Brand)

This essential fuse pack includes 25 fuses. These are Specific for your 2015+ F-150 & 2nd & 3rd Gen Raptor, Bronco, Ranger, Mustang, Super Duty. This pack covers EVERY fuse in 2015 and UP (Thru 2024 models) Ford Vehicles. These are NOT CHEAP Aftermarket Fuses. These are OEM, NAME BRAND "Little...

specialtyperformanceparts.com

As seen from here:

Thread 'FUSES! They're different and the truck has no spares or fuse puller' https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/...the-truck-has-no-spares-or-fuse-puller.14163/

You're welcome .

 

[McE]

A quick update to my SL issue @Canyon Trekker, you were spot on—the regulator was indeed the problem. There was power coming into the regulator yet nothing coming out of it so we eliminated it and ran it straight from the ZXWATC module.

That issue is resolved now, but I noticed that my 12V factory "cig" port wasn’t working, even though all the others (in the center console and rear seats) were fine.

We traced it back to the fuse relay box, where we found a blown 20A slotted fuse. This brings me to something another member brought up in a thread recently—fuses!

Seriously, how many different types of fuses are in these rigs? Eight in total!

While I’ve seen many types of fuses, I had never come across a 3-blade fuse before (and trust me, I’ve seen it all ).

A quick trip to the auto store - fail.

There are J case, M case, Standard, Low profile, slotted, micro, mini—it’s crazy!

Now I need to find an assortment of these fuses to keep as spares. Any suggestions? Has anyone come across a good assortment to carry in the truck?

I picked up one of these kits:

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...sential-fuse-pack?_pos=1&_sid=d204ebc3b&_ss=r

Edit: @Optimus🤖 beat me to it

 

[AZsurveyor]

SPV Parts 2015-2025 Ford F-150 and Raptor, Ranger, Bronco Essential Fuse pack (OEM Name Brand)

This essential fuse pack includes 25 fuses. These are Specific for your 2015+ F-150 & 2nd & 3rd Gen Raptor, Bronco, Ranger, Mustang, Super Duty. This pack covers EVERY fuse in 2015 and UP (Thru 2024 models) Ford Vehicles. These are NOT CHEAP Aftermarket Fuses. These are OEM, NAME BRAND "Little...

specialtyperformanceparts.com

As seen from here:

Thread 'FUSES! They're different and the truck has no spares or fuse puller' https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/...the-truck-has-no-spares-or-fuse-puller.14163/

You're welcome .

Hats off to you my friend - I don't know why I seem to have a hard time using the search function; it only lists the most recent threads with the word "fuse" in it. Maybe I just don't know how to use it correctly?

 

[Optimus🤖]

Hats off to you my friend - I don't know why I seem to have a hard time using the search function; it only lists the most recent threads with the word "fuse" in it. Maybe I just don't know how to use it correctly?

Just text me my friend!

 

[Canyon Trekker]

A quick update to my SL issue @Canyon Trekker, you were spot on—the regulator was indeed the problem. There was power coming into the regulator yet nothing coming out of it so we eliminated it and ran it straight from the ZXWATC module.

That issue is resolved now, but I noticed that my 12V factory "cig" port wasn’t working, even though all the others (in the center console and rear seats) were fine.

We traced it back to the fuse relay box, where we found a blown 20A slotted fuse. This brings me to something another member brought up in a thread recently—fuses!

Seriously, how many different types of fuses are in these rigs? Eight in total!

While I’ve seen many types of fuses, I had never come across a 3-blade fuse before (and trust me, I’ve seen it all ).

A quick trip to the auto store - fail.

There are J case, M case, Standard, Low profile, slotted, micro, mini—it’s crazy!

Now I need to find an assortment of these fuses to keep as spares. Any suggestions? Has anyone come across a good assortment to carry in the truck?

I picked these up on Amazon but there are some missing related to our trucks.

Amazon.com: Littelfuse 00940562ZPA OEM Emergency Fuse Kit for Ford : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Littelfuse 00940562ZPA OEM Emergency Fuse Kit for Ford: Fuse Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Also, these>

Amazon.com: Littelfuse 00940558ZPA MICRO2 32V Fuse Assortment, (Pack of 5) : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Littelfuse 00940558ZPA MICRO2 32V Fuse Assortment, (Pack of 5): Cartridge Fuses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

If I recall, there may have been a few others that I simply bought a different kit. You can find most of these in a kit on Amazon, but I like to stick to name brands like Littlefuse or Buss.

 

[JTredway]

Just text me my friend!

cant wait till i join this group chat, oh my god!

 

[JTredway]

A quick update to my SL issue @Canyon Trekker, you were spot on—the regulator was indeed the problem. There was power coming into the regulator yet nothing coming out of it so we eliminated it and ran it straight from the ZXWATC module.

That issue is resolved now, but I noticed that my 12V factory "cig" port wasn’t working, even though all the others (in the center console and rear seats) were fine.

We traced it back to the fuse relay box, where we found a blown 20A slotted fuse. This brings me to something another member brought up in a thread recently—fuses!

Seriously, how many different types of fuses are in these rigs? Eight in total!

While I’ve seen many types of fuses, I had never come across a 3-blade fuse before (and trust me, I’ve seen it all ).

A quick trip to the auto store - fail.

There are J case, M case, Standard, Low profile, slotted, micro, mini—it’s crazy!

Now I need to find an assortment of these fuses to keep as spares. Any suggestions? Has anyone come across a good assortment to carry in the truck?

Thought you were drinking again, was very confused about a 3spaded fuse, clicked @Optimus🤖 link, behold a 3 spaded fuses. Why are we making shit weird now.... what was wrong with the standard 2 spaded fuses.... power goes in power goes out, how the fuck does this even work now.

 

[gmoon]

Biased because we sell these, but if they are good enough for baja / desert racing they will put up with whatever you throw at them. Ive been running a PCI/Unique Componentry setup for two years now, 50,000 miles, and its been running nearly 24/7. Its changed the way I travel, and manage my businesses remotely. Cant speak highly enough. People spend thousands on lighting but honestly, this is even better.

There are a lot of cheap mounts out there....

Shop Starlink setups at Waypoint

Garrett

 

[Optimus🤖]

Thought you were drinking again, was very confused about a 3spaded fuse, clicked @Optimus🤖 link, behold a 3 spaded fuses. Why are we making shit weird now.... what was wrong with the standard 2 spaded fuses.... power goes in power goes out, how the fuck does this even work now.

This is the only 3 of spades I know of .

 

[AZsurveyor]

Thought you were drinking again, was very confused about a 3spaded fuse, clicked @Optimus🤖 link, behold a 3 spaded fuses. Why are we making shit weird now.... what was wrong with the standard 2 spaded fuses.... power goes in power goes out, how the fuck does this even work now.

The slotted/unslotted had me going wild, now this 3-blade fuse--you're doomed if you're caught in the middle of no mans land and this fuse blows. Frankly, I don't even know where it goes or what it protects?

Bridging a two-blade fuse, everyone and their auntie knows how to do that but what's in a 3-blade fuse? Is that how we're being tracked?? Infinity signal??

I picked these up on Amazon but there are some missing related to our trucks.

Amazon.com: Littelfuse 00940562ZPA OEM Emergency Fuse Kit for Ford : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Littelfuse 00940562ZPA OEM Emergency Fuse Kit for Ford: Fuse Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Also, these>

Amazon.com: Littelfuse 00940558ZPA MICRO2 32V Fuse Assortment, (Pack of 5) : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Littelfuse 00940558ZPA MICRO2 32V Fuse Assortment, (Pack of 5): Cartridge Fuses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

If I recall, there may have been a few others that I simply bought a different kit. You can find most of these in a kit on Amazon, but I like to stick to name brands like Littlefuse or Buss.

Thank you and while I did grab some of these from the auto parts store, of course none of these kits came with the slotted 20A.

I have gone to 4 auto parts stores since this weekend and nada.

Online it is - thanks to all once again!

 

[mattagc]

Late to the conversation since it seems to be solved, but from what I’ve read, the upconverter is mostly useful if you repurpose the Starlink cable for power without shortening it. The Starlink power cables are notoriously small gauge, so it was originally recommended as a way to combat voltage drop over the small wires at a distance (particularly when the Starlink boots up, it would sometimes spike its power draw).

 

[AZsurveyor]

Late to the conversation since it seems to be solved, but from what I’ve read, the upconverter is mostly useful if you repurpose the Starlink cable for power without shortening it. The Starlink power cables are notoriously small gauge, so it was originally recommended as a way to combat voltage drop over the small wires at a distance (particularly when the Starlink boots up, it would sometimes spike its power draw).

Interesting and quite the opposite of what I believed, but I'll let @Canyon Trekker share his expertise on this discovery.

When we spliced it, it wasn't shortened or lengthened; it was simply done to remove the 12V adapter and connect it to the regulator.

 

[Fozzy]

Since this thread is going again,

How many of you have noticed a different in service with the new "Beam Switching" update? I haven't been in congested areas to notice, but it seems like it's getting ready for the dish to be in your hands full time.

 

[Canyon Trekker]

Interesting and quite the opposite of what I believed, but I'll let @Canyon Trekker share his expertise on this discovery.

When we spliced it, it wasn't shortened or lengthened; it was simply done to remove the 12V adapter and connect it to the regulator.

The Starlink mini is rated for an input of 12-48 volts and rated at a power of 60W. So here is the bottom line, you can get away with running it at 12V (13.5-14) at around a 5A draw at full power. The issue is as @mattagc points out, the wire length comes into play, particularly with a long cable with a smaller gauge. The power converter bumps the voltage up to 30V from what I can tell, and this would draw around 2A at full power. So, the difference would be how much the wire drops with any kind of in-rush or surge. Startup usually draws the most "instantaneous" current to charge everything up in the antenna. If there is a glitch or delay due to an instantaneous drop in voltage, you could get an error of some kind during startup. Starlink has apparently known about this and again, from what I can find, it looks like Starlink is going to eventually offer a shorter cable for 12V use. This would essentially alleviate the drop in the wire during startup.

If you are running a long wire with small gauge, it is better to have the upconverter (regulator or booster) to boost the voltage to 30V where the inrush would only be 2A (possibly a bit higher) for startup.

Originally, I suggested eliminating the ZXWATC, not the converter, but I also know that the mini will work with 12V. So, when you discovered the converter was bad, and the antenna was working with 12V, it sounded like a win. In actuality, it would be better to have the converter installed, (a new one) and you could leave the ZXWATC in place since it was not the problem. The antenna will likely run more efficient with 30V than 12V. As for the reason the original regulator went bad, and the coincidence that the fuse socket was also bad, perhaps there was something crossed up or another accessory hooked up that surged everything. I know you have a pretty exotic machine there with all your equipment.

Here are the specs on the mini. You notice they mention a "shorter cable option" for 12V. (I highlighted it in red)

Starlink​

Package Weight	2.89 kg (6.37 lbs)
Package Dimensions	430 x 334 x 79 mm (16.92 x 13.14 x 3.11 in)
Antenna	Electronic Phased Array
Field of View	110 °
Orientation	Software Assisted Manual Orienting
Weight	1.10 kg (2.43 lb) 1.16 kg (2.56 lb) with Kickstand 1.53 kg (3.37 lb) with Kickstand & 15 m Cable
Environmental Rating	IP67 Type 4 with DC Power Cable and Starlink Plug/Cable installed
Operating Temperature	-30°C to 50°C (-22°F to 122°F)
Wind Speed	Operational: 96 kph+ (60 mph+)
Snow Melt Capability	Up to 25mm / hour (1 in / hour)
Power Consumption	Average: 25-40W
Input Rating	12-48V 60W (12v short Starlink cable coming soon in Shop)
USB PD Requirement	100W, 20V/5A Minimum (with Starlink USB-C to Barrel Jack Cable Accessory)
Wi-Fi Technology	802.11a/b/g/n/ac
Generation	WiFi 5
Radio	Dual Band 3 x 3 MU-MIMO
Ethernet Ports	One (1) Latching Ethernet LAN port with Starlink Plug
Coverage	Up to 112 m² (1,200 ft²)
Security	WPA2
Power Indicator	LED | rear face plate, lower left corner
Mesh Compatibility	Compatible with all Starlink mesh systems *Not compatible with 3rd party mesh systems
Devices	Connect up to 128 devices

 

[AZsurveyor]

The Starlink mini is rated for an input of 12-48 volts and rated at a power of 60W. So here is the bottom line, you can get away with running it at 12V (13.5-14) at around a 5A draw at full power. The issue is as @mattagc points out, the wire length comes into play, particularly with a long cable with a smaller gauge. The power converter bumps the voltage up to 30V from what I can tell, and this would draw around 2A at full power. So, the difference would be how much the wire drops with any kind of in-rush or surge. Startup usually draws the most "instantaneous" current to charge everything up in the antenna. If there is a glitch or delay due to an instantaneous drop in voltage, you could get an error of some kind during startup. Starlink has apparently known about this and again, from what I can find, it looks like Starlink is going to eventually offer a shorter cable for 12V use. This would essentially alleviate the drop in the wire during startup.

If you are running a long wire with small gauge, it is better to have the upconverter (regulator or booster) to boost the voltage to 30V where the inrush would only be 2A (possibly a bit higher) for startup.

Originally, I suggested eliminating the ZXWATC, not the converter, but I also know that the mini will work with 12V. So, when you discovered the converter was bad, and the antenna was working with 12V, it sounded like a win. In actuality, it would be better to have the converter installed, (a new one) and you could leave the ZXWATC in place since it was not the problem. The antenna will likely run more efficient with 30V than 12V. As for the reason the original regulator went bad, and the coincidence that the fuse socket was also bad, perhaps there was something crossed up or another accessory hooked up that surged everything. I know you have a pretty exotic machine there with all your equipment.

Here are the specs on the mini. You notice they mention a "shorter cable option" for 12V. (I highlighted it in red)

Starlink​

Package Weight	2.89 kg (6.37 lbs)
Package Dimensions	430 x 334 x 79 mm (16.92 x 13.14 x 3.11 in)
Antenna	Electronic Phased Array
Field of View	110 °
Orientation	Software Assisted Manual Orienting
Weight	1.10 kg (2.43 lb) 1.16 kg (2.56 lb) with Kickstand 1.53 kg (3.37 lb) with Kickstand & 15 m Cable
Environmental Rating	IP67 Type 4 with DC Power Cable and Starlink Plug/Cable installed
Operating Temperature	-30°C to 50°C (-22°F to 122°F)
Wind Speed	Operational: 96 kph+ (60 mph+)
Snow Melt Capability	Up to 25mm / hour (1 in / hour)
Power Consumption	Average: 25-40W
Input Rating	12-48V 60W (12v short Starlink cable coming soon in Shop)
USB PD Requirement	100W, 20V/5A Minimum (with Starlink USB-C to Barrel Jack Cable Accessory)
Wi-Fi Technology	802.11a/b/g/n/ac
Generation	WiFi 5
Radio	Dual Band 3 x 3 MU-MIMO
Ethernet Ports	One (1) Latching Ethernet LAN port with Starlink Plug
Coverage	Up to 112 m² (1,200 ft²)
Security	WPA2
Power Indicator	LED | rear face plate, lower left corner
Mesh Compatibility	Compatible with all Starlink mesh systems *Not compatible with 3rd party mesh systems
Devices	Connect up to 128 devices

You could write an entire book on the behavior of electric currents and I would never get bored reading it.

I completely understood everything with such a clear explanation.

For now, I’ll leave it as is, and like you mentioned, if a shorter cable becomes available, I’ll switch the setup.

 

[Optimus🤖]

New standby mode!

Starlink Replaces Free Pause Mode With $5 Monthly Charge

With standby mode, Starlink Roam and Priority subscribers get unlimited low-speed data that's capped at 500kbps. Customers note that it's 'another rate hike, without calling it a rate hike.'

www.pcmag.com

 

[WV4Life]

I'm not touching anything. My fear is that when I need it, it wont work because I put in standby or lowered the plan. I tried using my Garmin InReach Messenger yesterday to send a important work text when out of service. It never sent. Got back into cell coverage and I had to accept a new Terms of Service on my phone before it would send the message. Total BS!!! So just to be sure I fired up the SL and ran all the updates. Might have to start a routine.