Show me your Starlink mounts (or ones you’ve seen)

[HeavyAssault]

All the mounts arrived. SL Gen 3 updated, and comms established. Mounting to be accomplished soon.

 

[JTredway]

Has the pause for the mini (those invited on the $30/no plan) been disabled?

 

[JTredway]

Guess I am retarded. Who here has mounted it to a Bakflip or similar? I know somone posted it but scrolled through this whole thing and could not find it so it might be another post. I got a mag mount in the cart but trying to find a 3m stick metal plate(s) to attached it to the top of my bakflip when I don't feel like finagling with it inside to the sunroof. Although I did run a cord up the C pillar and over the sunshade so it's not to much a PITA to do just wanted to try something different since my bed power is always hot if I wanted to step away from the truck for minutes at a time.

 

[MiTremor906]

Well I joined the club and ordered the Mini this past weekend. Was on sale for $399 plus a $100 credit. Arrived today and suction mount for pano roof arrives tomorrow.

For those that mount it like this, how do you have it powered. I'd like to close the shade so will need to hide the cable. Do you guys run it back to the center console and use the 120v plug, usb-c, 12v plug or wire it to an upfitter or direct to battery? Anyone that wired it to an upfitter or battery, did you use a converter to step the voltage up?

 

[Slippers]

Mine seems perfectly happy running on a 12 volt adapter on both my ecoflow and the socket in the truck.

The usb-c ports in the truck won’t work - you need 100 watt 20 volt / 5 amp.

I also have the auto defrost option turned off in the starlink settings, to help reduce the power draw.

 

[JTredway]

Well I joined the club and ordered the Mini this past weekend. Was on sale for $399 plus a $100 credit. Arrived today and suction mount for pano roof arrives tomorrow.

For those that mount it like this, how do you have it powered. I'd like to close the shade so will need to hide the cable. Do you guys run it back to the center console and use the 120v plug, usb-c, 12v plug or wire it to an upfitter or direct to battery? Anyone that wired it to an upfitter or battery, did you use a converter to step the voltage up?

Center console back either off 12v or 120v. Ran the wire up the back wall / C pillar over headliner so I can close my shade.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Ran into an issue today while needing to use SL - wanted some feedback if any of you guys are running this?

Installed this a few weeks back in the glove comparment area, wired it to upfitter #3, worked fine until today. The volmeter displays a voltage when #3 is kicked but I get no signal at the antenna - SL is not coming on. What I found strange is that it seemed to also have shorted my factory 12V on the dash yet the one inside the center console was working as was the 12V for the rear seats.

Strangely enough, I added some 12V multi ports inside the glove box compartment area(s) as shown below and they were all working.

The voltmeter is shown with the red arrow below, to the right.

I've read some reviews saying the module itself can become faulty and likely the case but wanted some feedback from you guys before tearing all this apart and going another route.

Edit -- SL is working when plugged directly into a 120V outlet.

 

[Fozzy]

Ran into an issue today while needing to use SL - wanted some feedback if any of you guys are running this?

View attachment 220259

Installed this a few weeks back in the glove comparment area, wired it to upfitter #3, worked fine until today. The volmeter displays a voltage when #3 is kicked but I get no signal at the antenna - SL is not coming on. What I found strange is that it seemed to also have shorted my factory 12V on the dash yet the one inside the center console was working as was the 12V for the rear seats.

Strangely enough, I added some 12V multi ports inside the glove box compartment area(s) as shown below and they were all working.

The voltmeter is shown with the red arrow below, to the right.

View attachment 220260

I've read some reviews saying the module itself can become faulty and likely the case but wanted some feedback from you guys before tearing all this apart and going another route.

Edit -- SL is working when plugged directly into a 120V outlet.

Not the same brand, but an Amazon step up box for the Starlink Mini. I tried to use it on my boat tower that had smaller gauge wires running through the tower. It would not give me constant or continuous power. The Mini would keep resetting every so often and actually started to not reboot, the blue light would come on but it would never connect to the app or any devices. Thought I fried my Mini. It to killed the breaker at the switch. I tried it with the old USBC cable to my power bank and the Mini fired back up. For fun ran a larger gauge wire on the outside of the tower and directly to the battery and it seemed to work. But I was hopping the entire purpose of this was to regulate a constant power output regardless of the input and it would negate the loss with the smaller wire. It did not and I gave up on it. Going to try and fish the USBC cabe through the tower which amazes me the wires inside it are so small but can carry the load with zero issues on the mini. My power stations put out 13.4 volts at 100 Watts constant and won't affect the boat system and keep the power clean and constant. I also run my mini off the SoGen in my truck and the one in my SxS. I think this is the best way as they are all regulated constant power.

 

[Canyon Trekker]

Ran into an issue today while needing to use SL - wanted some feedback if any of you guys are running this?

View attachment 220259

Installed this a few weeks back in the glove comparment area, wired it to upfitter #3, worked fine until today. The volmeter displays a voltage when #3 is kicked but I get no signal at the antenna - SL is not coming on. What I found strange is that it seemed to also have shorted my factory 12V on the dash yet the one inside the center console was working as was the 12V for the rear seats.

Strangely enough, I added some 12V multi ports inside the glove box compartment area(s) as shown below and they were all working.

The voltmeter is shown with the red arrow below, to the right.

View attachment 220260

I've read some reviews saying the module itself can become faulty and likely the case but wanted some feedback from you guys before tearing all this apart and going another route.

Edit -- SL is working when plugged directly into a 120V outlet.

I don't have a Star Link setup but, in this configuration shown, it appears you have the voltmeter/conditioner (protector) in line with the power converter, then going to the SL power cable. If the SL isn't working with this setup, but is working with the 120V adapter, then you need to look at the power adapter for the correct output. The 12V dash outlet is another issue, possibly related only that the power module may have blown that fuse. If the power module does not work with a separate 12V hookup (not the upfitter switch) then your power module or connections are a high suspect.

I assume the power adapter is a step-up transformer/converter either to 24 or 48 volts. This would also be a regulator to maintain a constant out with a variable input. The "voltmeter" appears to be a voltmeter with a conditioner in it to help avoid interference to the SL, or even prevent interference FROM the SL.

I would start by establishing if the power module works. (Do you have 24 or 48 volts coming out?) If not, try the fuse first. Then, a different 12V source besides the upfitter to eliminate a connection issue. If you eventually find an issue there, then troubleshoot the dash outlet. They shouldn't have the same source, if you are in fact hooked up to an upfitter switch. The dash outlet may have a separate fuse.

Those converter modules are fairly foolproof; they shouldn't go bad since they are generally short circuit proof.

When the SL is plugged into the 120V, is there a separate power module? I doubt the SL works with 120V. Also, are you using the same cable to hook up to the 120V source?

Still more questions than answers at this point, I'll wait for your input...

 

[AZsurveyor]

I don't have a Star Link setup but, in this configuration shown, it appears you have the voltmeter/conditioner (protector) in line with the power converter, then going to the SL power cable. If the SL isn't working with this setup, but is working with the 120V adapter, then you need to look at the power adapter for the correct output. The 12V dash outlet is another issue, possibly related only that the power module may have blown that fuse. If the power module does not work with a separate 12V hookup (not the upfitter switch) then your power module or connections are a high suspect.

I assume the power adapter is a step-up transformer/converter either to 24 or 48 volts. This would also be a regulator to maintain a constant out with a variable input. The "voltmeter" appears to be a voltmeter with a conditioner in it to help avoid interference to the SL, or even prevent interference FROM the SL.

I would start by establishing if the power module works. (Do you have 24 or 48 volts coming out?) If not, try the fuse first. Then, a different 12V source besides the upfitter to eliminate a connection issue. If you eventually find an issue there, then troubleshoot the dash outlet. They shouldn't have the same source, if you are in fact hooked up to an upfitter switch. The dash outlet may have a separate fuse.

Those converter modules are fairly foolproof; they shouldn't go bad since they are generally short circuit proof.

When the SL is plugged into the 120V, is there a separate power module? I doubt the SL works with 120V. Also, are you using the same cable to hook up to the 120V source?

Still more questions than answers at this point, I'll wait for your input...

You’re all amazing for sharing so much knowledge, definitely more than this beginner can fully understand, but I’ll give it my best shot.

The power cable came from a 12V DC charger source that was already routed to the spot where I installed the protector. Realizing it was the same power cable originally provided with the power inverter, I left it in place and spliced it into the inverter module.

The voltmeter lets you configure certain parameters to serve as a protection method, as shown below:

I have it set to 12.5V (the lowest it allows) with the hysteresis value at 1.

Once again, it was working perfectly until today.

I will check the fuses in the truck in the morning.

As far as the 120V power cable, yes it does come with an inverter as well:

 

[Canyon Trekker]

You’re all amazing for sharing so much knowledge, definitely more than this beginner can fully understand, but I’ll give it my best shot.

The power cable came from a 12V DC charger source that was already routed to the spot where I installed the protector. Realizing it was the same power cable originally provided with the power inverter, I left it in place and spliced it into the inverter module.

View attachment 220297



The voltmeter lets you configure certain parameters to serve as a protection method, as shown below:

View attachment 220298


I have it set to 12.5V (the lowest it allows) with the hysteresis value at 1.

Once again, it was working perfectly until today.

I will check the fuses in the truck in the morning.

As far as the 120V power cable, yes it does come with an inverter as well:

View attachment 220301

When you said you use upfitter 3, I was assuming you had a direct connection to the ZXWATC module as well. But if I'm not mistaking it, you have the upfitter connected to the power distribution box in the glove box, and since it shows power, I would still suspect the harness or power module. As for the socket on the dash, I would still consider it a separate issue for now... Until you can determine if the harness is actually attached to a live source. I would be looking for a failed harness as described in the picture. Does the voltmeter module indicate voltage? If not, then somewhere between the upfitter making the power module work, and the tap, is not making a good contact, or the XXWATC is at fault. (In some rare cases, the power converter (grey box) could have shorted as well, which may terminate the ZXWATC as a protection. Try unplugging the fuse in the harness to see if the voltmeter comes back to life.)

 

[HeavyAssault]

@AZsurveyor :
I went through this battle when I was thinking of my setup for power. In the end I realized the only benefit was that the converter allows you to use smaller gage wiring over the 12-14VDC the truck provides. So I found (still need to install) a slightly larger 16G wiring to hard wire to the upfitter connections under the hood.
In the end I'll have a straight wire connection off (5 or 6) so I just turn it on when the truck is running (or off) for power. 40A of DC power is PLENTY for the Mini or my Gen 3 I'm using. No real need for those components you have installed in my mind.

Given your current problems, one of those parts in you power supply line is causing you the issues.

 

[AZsurveyor]

@AZsurveyor :
I went through this battle when I was thinking of my setup for power. In the end I realized the only benefit was that the converter allows you to use smaller gage wiring over the 12-14VDC the truck provides. So I found (still need to install) a slightly larger 16G wiring to hard wire to the upfitter connections under the hood.
In the end I'll have a straight wire connection off (5 or 6) so I just turn it on when the truck is running (or off) for power. 40A of DC power is PLENTY for the Mini or my Gen 3 I'm using. No real need for those components you have installed in my mind.

Given your current problems, one of those parts in you power supply line is causing you the issues.

Are Aux 1-4 big enough to properly maintain the required voltage?

#6 are my strobes
#5 is a dumb function that does not required 40A but would hate having to move it, but I will if I have to

 

[HeavyAssault]

So here's the best crash course I can give. I realize you may know some of this but I'm just giving it out for others.

Truck : Provides 12.8VDC with motor off. 13.8-14.8VDC with motor running. (voltage regulator)
Aux 1-4 are not able to power on with motor off, Aux 5-6 can be used with motor off.
Aux 1-4 should be 25A power, while Aux 5-6 are 40A power. (roughly 12.8-14.8VDC motor operation dependent)

Now Watts/Voltage=Amps. The SL Mini is said to use about 60W of power. 60/12.8= 4.68A; 60/14.5= 4.13A.

So what is really asked is do you need to power the SL while the motor is OFF as to allow you use of the up-fitters. If you need SL all the time, use Aux 5 or 6 changed over to be used with the motor off. Use Aux 1-4 if you only need to use SL with the motor running (or you tend to stay driving or at idle during SL use).

Make sense??

So even using a step up convertor all the math shows is a drop in Amps. 60W/24VDC= 2.5A
Convertor changes the 12.8-14.8VDC to 24VDC, thus the power draw of the SL is reduced to lower amps allowing a smaller gauge wire to be run for power supply.
I might be a little misguided here as I'm not an electrical expert, but I really can't see a HUGE gain the the convertor usage.

 

[AZsurveyor]

When you said you use upfitter 3, I was assuming you had a direct connection to the ZXWATC module as well. But if I'm not mistaking it, you have the upfitter connected to the power distribution box in the glove box, and since it shows power, I would still suspect the harness or power module. As for the socket on the dash, I would still consider it a separate issue for now... Until you can determine if the harness is actually attached to a live source. I would be looking for a failed harness as described in the picture. Does the voltmeter module indicate voltage? If not, then somewhere between the upfitter making the power module work, and the tap, is not making a good contact, or the XXWATC is at fault. (In some rare cases, the power converter (grey box) could have shorted as well, which may terminate the ZXWATC as a protection. Try unplugging the fuse in the harness to see if the voltmeter comes back to life.)


View attachment 220314

When #3 is activated, the voltmeter starts showing a voltage reading of 14.4+-

The fuse is a 25 amp and it was not blown.

Black and yellow wires are 16AWG - did not see what their output is.

So here's the best crash course I can give. I realize you may know some of this but I'm just giving it out for others.

Truck : Provides 12.8VDC with motor off. 13.8-14.8VDC with motor running. (voltage regulator)
Aux 1-4 are not able to power on with motor off, Aux 5-6 can be used with motor off.
Aux 1-4 should be 25A power, while Aux 5-6 are 40A power. (roughly 12.8-14.8VDC motor operation dependent)

Now Watts/Voltage=Amps. The SL Mini is said to use about 60W of power. 60/12.8= 4.68A; 60/14.5= 4.13A.

So what is really asked is do you need to power the SL while the motor is OFF as to allow you use of the up-fitters. If you need SL all the time, use Aux 5 or 6 changed over to be used with the motor off. Use Aux 1-4 if you only need to use SL with the motor running (or you tend to stay driving or at idle during SL use).

Make sense??

So even using a step up convertor all the math shows is a drop in Amps. 60W/24VDC= 2.5A
Convertor changes the 12.8-14.8VDC to 24VDC, thus the power draw of the SL is reduced to lower amps allowing a smaller gauge wire to be run for power supply.
I might be a little misguided here as I'm not an electrical expert, but I really can't see a HUGE gain the the convertor usage.

Totally makes sense - I appreciate breaking it down to a dummy level.

I forgot to mention, I am using a module that enables AUX 1-6 to run hot at all times, motor on or off.

I didn't get a chance to check for power coming out of the module but I will look into this later this evening.

 

[McE]

When #3 is activated, the voltmeter starts showing a voltage reading of 14.4+-

The fuse is a 25 amp and it was not blown.

Black and yellow wires are 16AWG - did not see what their output is.


Totally makes sense - I appreciate breaking it down to a dummy level.

I forgot to mention, I am using a module that enables AUX 1-6 to run hot at all times, motor on or off.

I didn't get a chance to check for power coming out of the module but I will look into this later this evening.

I agree 100% with eliminating the boost converter setup - completely unnecessary for your use case. My SL Mini runs off a simple USB-C cable to a small DC power station which charges off the truck when running and gives about 7 hours of runtime when the truck is off without running the truck battery down.

I would just run a USB-C cable to a car charger plugged into your switched outlet in the glove box if you're wanting to turn it on and off with an upfitter switch. Dead simple. I have used both of the linked products and can confirm they work flawlessly together.

 

[Canyon Trekker]

When #3 is activated, the voltmeter starts showing a voltage reading of 14.4+-

The fuse is a 25 amp and it was not blown.

Black and yellow wires are 16AWG - did not see what their output is.


Totally makes sense - I appreciate breaking it down to a dummy level.

I forgot to mention, I am using a module that enables AUX 1-6 to run hot at all times, motor on or off.

I didn't get a chance to check for power coming out of the module but I will look into this later this evening.

After researching a little further, @HeavyAssault is closest to the correct numbers but I think part of your issue also lies in the double protection you have set up. You don't need both of those modules; you really only need one to convert to the requirement of the SL mini. You may be able to run direct from 12-14.5 volts, but the module is also protection from surges.

The adapters available seem to indicate a 30V, 3.5A capability for the mini. That does not mean the unit will draw this amount, only the top end capacity of the module. The mini should draw around 60 watts, or about half of the total capacity of the power module. I don't know exactly without measuring it. But the power module also has some surge factor associated with it and likely needs the bigger fuse for that reason. A fuse is generally twice the size of the working load. If the mini had 12V on it, it will draw more amps than if it had 14.5 volts on it. This is all fun with numbers and can confuse most everyone when you get into the math of why there are differences but bottom line, the two modules are not only unnecessary, but a hindrance to proper operation of the SL.

No matter the way you convert the power for the mini, USB adapter, 12V adapter, or 120 to DC adapter, the mini looks for 30V. It will draw the current it requires for operation, which should be in the 1.75-2A range. Power requirements will be ~2A times 30V which is 60 watts. (Thats what @HeavyAssault said...)

Yes, the voltage is raised to 30V from the module, (perhaps 24V in some cases, not sure on the tolerance of the mini) so the capacity of the smallish grey cable is not burdened and likely the mini itself is more efficient with the higher voltage. The larger wire is for the power supply which will convert the 12-14.5V to 30V but requires higher current from a lower DC source. (The trucks power) The module is also protection as a regulator. Any upfitter drive will be sufficient to run this. Keep in mind that multiple devices hooked up to the distribution box in the glove box that is controlled by the same upfitter, increases the current load. So, there may be a deficit on power depending on what you are running at the same time as the SL.

Here are the specs on a power module from an Amazon site.

Amazon.com: Starlink Mini 12V Adapter DC Step Up Converter Starlink Mini Power Cord 12V/24V to 30V 3.5A Starlink Mini Power Supply Boost Conversion with Fuse : Electronics

Amazon.com: Starlink Mini 12V Adapter DC Step Up Converter Starlink Mini Power Cord 12V/24V to 30V 3.5A Starlink Mini Power Supply Boost Conversion with Fuse : Electronics

www.amazon.com

 

[mds2004]

I use this in my 5th wheel when dry camping. I used it for 7 consecutive days last month without any issues.

Amazon.com: 24V 12V to 36V Step Up Converter DC-DC Regulator Boost Power Supply Input(9V-30V) Waterproof Module Transformer for GolfCart Motor Car Truck Vehicle Boat Solar E-Bike (5A-180W) : Electronics

Amazon.com: 24V 12V to 36V Step Up Converter DC-DC Regulator Boost Power Supply Input(9V-30V) Waterproof Module Transformer for GolfCart Motor Car Truck Vehicle Boat Solar E-Bike (5A-180W) : Electronics

www.amazon.com

 

[AZsurveyor]

After researching a little further, @HeavyAssault is closest to the correct numbers but I think part of your issue also lies in the double protection you have set up. You don't need both of those modules; you really only need one to convert to the requirement of the SL mini. You may be able to run direct from 12-14.5 volts, but the module is also protection from surges.

The adapters available seem to indicate a 30V, 3.5A capability for the mini. That does not mean the unit will draw this amount, only the top end capacity of the module. The mini should draw around 60 watts, or about half of the total capacity of the power module. I don't know exactly without measuring it. But the power module also has some surge factor associated with it and likely needs the bigger fuse for that reason. A fuse is generally twice the size of the working load. If the mini had 12V on it, it will draw more amps than if it had 14.5 volts on it. This is all fun with numbers and can confuse most everyone when you get into the math of why there are differences but bottom line, the two modules are not only unnecessary, but a hindrance to proper operation of the SL.

No matter the way you convert the power for the mini, USB adapter, 12V adapter, or 120 to DC adapter, the mini looks for 30V. It will draw the current it requires for operation, which should be in the 1.75-2A range. Power requirements will be ~2A times 30V which is 60 watts. (Thats what @HeavyAssault said...)

Yes, the voltage is raised to 30V from the module, (perhaps 24V in some cases, not sure on the tolerance of the mini) so the capacity of the smallish grey cable is not burdened and likely the mini itself is more efficient with the higher voltage. The larger wire is for the power supply which will convert the 12-14.5V to 30V but requires higher current from a lower DC source. (The trucks power) The module is also protection as a regulator. Any upfitter drive will be sufficient to run this. Keep in mind that multiple devices hooked up to the distribution box in the glove box that is controlled by the same upfitter, increases the current load. So, there may be a deficit on power depending on what you are running at the same time as the SL.

Here are the specs on a power module from an Amazon site.

Amazon.com: Starlink Mini 12V Adapter DC Step Up Converter Starlink Mini Power Cord 12V/24V to 30V 3.5A Starlink Mini Power Supply Boost Conversion with Fuse : Electronics

Amazon.com: Starlink Mini 12V Adapter DC Step Up Converter Starlink Mini Power Cord 12V/24V to 30V 3.5A Starlink Mini Power Supply Boost Conversion with Fuse : Electronics

www.amazon.com

So in short, just rip it and run it direct?

Sorry, going thru a minor headache after reading all that

 

[Canyon Trekker]

So in short, just rip it and run it direct?

Sorry, going thru a minor headache after reading all that

You really haven't found the source of the problem yet and none of the modules may be bad. But I usually like to keep things simple, the fewer components the less likeliness that one of the modules in a chain can fail. If it is not needed, I would eliminate it.

I would eliminate the ZXWATC module, it is in line with another regulator. Hook the power module/regulator, up to the 12V socket that is controlled by the upfitter or spliced into the feed for a hard wire setup. The output of that module (Yellow and Black wires) should be 30V for the SL mini. It's 30V for a 10-28V input.

The ZXWATC module is essentially a low voltage protection switch. So here is the scenario: If the voltage drops below a set voltage level, set by the user, the module will likely turn off. This would protect the battery and possibly the SL.

But the kicker is that the power module is designed to work from 10-28V input. It "is" the regulator and will provide protection so long as the battery never drops below 10V. The ZXWATC is simply an automatic "OFF" switch though it also protects for overvoltage, should those conditions exist. I don't really see a need for it in a vehicle that is running or used intermittently without the truck running. If you were to run it via an external battery that isn't monitored in some manner, I could see its value. (Like running it with a Milwaukee or DeWalt battery, or a prolonged use off grid without running the truck.)

It does look like this is an aftermarket device that SL doesn't necessarily supply.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRFZGWP7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B0DRFZGWP7&pd_rd_w=U27xL&content-id=amzn1.sym.30062d3d-2c31-47f3-af26-55177a669bb5&pf_rd_p=30062d3d-2c31-47f3-af26-55177a669bb5&pf_rd_r=57GWMWFGZE59SNX3AFJW&pd_rd_wg=Vw6Ax&pd_rd_r=e6cd2e4b-5139-4b75-9ff5-a09a7c30d2ac&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

By the way, Milwaukee and DeWalt batteries have built-in shutoff at low voltages to protect the battery.