Show me your Starlink mounts (or ones you’ve seen)

[Slippers]

Anyone ever run their power to the SL Mini off an up-fitter switch?? (likely the 1-4 would be best)
Is that too much power (amps) through the SL Mini power cable (or aftermarket offerings)??

Seems as the nature of the SL is needing more "power/amps/voltage" to help prevent signal drop. Since there is a wide input allowance (12-48V) there's the SL need (seems to be 60-100W max) of power. I want to guess the math works out for lower voltage but higher amps means larger gauge wiring. Hence higher voltage means lower amps, smaller gauge wire should be able to handle the draw.

Would that mean the SL Mini power cable is the weak link driving the need for a higher applied voltage at a lower amperage??

Honestly my first plan was to just feed the SL Mini off an up-fitter (now 1-4). Research lead me down the rabbit trails of add-on converters, PD power adapters, larger gauge cables.....UUUUGGGGhhhhh. Stuck in the AP rut for how to feed this thing.

The usual power = voltage * current applies here. It looks like maximum power draw on the mini is 60 watts, so 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 amps.

Upfitters 1-4 are rated for 25 amps at 12 volts, but this doesn't mean that the truck will "push" 25 amps to the device and damage it. Devices pull the current they need, and the maximum to the starlink mini should be 5 amps, so it should be fine to run it direct wired to an upfitter switch. 10 AWG should be more than adequate - I believe that's what comes on upfitter 5-6, while 1-4 are slightly smaller diameter, about 14 AWG.

Upfitter 5-6 would also allow you to run it while the truck is turned off, although I don't know that I'd recommend this in case you forget and drain your starting battery or batteries.

 

[McE]

Anyone ever run their power to the SL Mini off an up-fitter switch?? (likely the 1-4 would be best)
Is that too much power (amps) through the SL Mini power cable (or aftermarket offerings)??

Seems as the nature of the SL is needing more "power/amps/voltage" to help prevent signal drop. Since there is a wide input allowance (12-48V) there's the SL need (seems to be 60-100W max) of power. I want to guess the math works out for lower voltage but higher amps means larger gauge wiring. Hence higher voltage means lower amps, smaller gauge wire should be able to handle the draw.

Would that mean the SL Mini power cable is the weak link driving the need for a higher applied voltage at a lower amperage??

Honestly my first plan was to just feed the SL Mini off an up-fitter (now 1-4). Research lead me down the rabbit trails of add-on converters, PD power adapters, larger gauge cables.....UUUUGGGGhhhhh. Stuck in the AP rut for how to feed this thing.

I move mine in and out of the truck but my solution might work well for you anyway. Small DC-only power bank under the rear seat - I'm using the Anker C300 to run the SL Mini with a Starlink USB-C cable and a 12v XT60 cable to run the power bank off the 12v on the rear of the jump seat. Cheap, portable, keeps the SL Mini running for 4-5hrs between stops, and recharges off the truck when running. You could easily run the 12v charging circuit to an upfitter.

 

[Cuervo]

Just need constant consistent power, but a 250 watt will do the job for the mini.

 

[AZsurveyor]

I am running it off an upfitter - no 4.

While I do not see a drop in power (at least not anything that I have noticed), to get all wiring and cable out of the way, I tapped a multiport 12v cig plug adaptor to AUX4 and fed it into the glove box area. We carry electric lunch boxes to warm up food and if I attempt to plug it into that same multi port 12v, it will drop voltage and pause the mini intermittently.

For those powering the mini with the USB-C, have you all experienced or noticed an issue? I suppose the connection type does not matter so as long as the cable size is appropriate for its power? I saw these when I purchased the mini in place of the 120 plug but opted for the 12V plug instead; something in me thought this was "better."

 

[HeavyAssault]

So I got the SL Mini and Gen 3. Decided as long as I keep one sealed it can be returned if needed. Too easy on the pricing for either version right now. Not to mention if the new (to be released) smaller router will feed the Mini via POE, that would be added to gain some range when stationary.

> Power requirements/solution identified. (Mini or Gen 3) Up-fitter to feed step-up convertor.
> Cables identified to support added power (if chosen). Some power packages have it all.
> Mounting choices still undetermined. I might add it to the truck rack due to GMRS antenna mounting.
>> Mini roof mounts seem to be REALLY close to my current antenna setup.
>> Gen 3 would definitely go on the truck rack.

Anyone want an idea to 3D print?? PM me if you want to know.

 

[Dzlbudman]

Anyone ever run their power to the SL Mini off an up-fitter switch?? (likely the 1-4 would be best)
Is that too much power (amps) through the SL Mini power cable (or aftermarket offerings)??

Seems as the nature of the SL is needing more "power/amps/voltage" to help prevent signal drop. Since there is a wide input allowance (12-48V) there's the SL need (seems to be 60-100W max) of power. I want to guess the math works out for lower voltage but higher amps means larger gauge wiring. Hence higher voltage means lower amps, smaller gauge wire should be able to handle the draw.

Would that mean the SL Mini power cable is the weak link driving the need for a higher applied voltage at a lower amperage??

Honestly my first plan was to just feed the SL Mini off an up-fitter (now 1-4). Research lead me down the rabbit trails of add-on converters, PD power adapters, larger gauge cables.....UUUUGGGGhhhhh. Stuck in the AP rut for how to feed this thing.

I did. Upfitter #2. No problems so far. I did turn off the defrost mode in the settings for the Mini tho. That’s my only concern after deep diving into investigating

 

[Fozzy]

I am running it off an upfitter - no 4.

While I do not see a drop in power (at least not anything that I have noticed), to get all wiring and cable out of the way, I tapped a multiport 12v cig plug adaptor to AUX4 and fed it into the glove box area. We carry electric lunch boxes to warm up food and if I attempt to plug it into that same multi port 12v, it will drop voltage and pause the mini intermittently.

For those powering the mini with the USB-C, have you all experienced or noticed an issue? I suppose the connection type does not matter so as long as the cable size is appropriate for its power? I saw these when I purchased the mini in place of the 120 plug but opted for the 12V plug instead; something in me thought this was "better."

They have 240w over USB C now. I have seen it go up to the mid 60 watts on boot up but runs around 27 Watts. So as long as you have a 100 Watt Power Deliver USB-C cable and charger you should have no problems. I have an Amazon special that has a barrel plug, not sure the number, Cig charger and a USB-C on one end and the SL plug on the other. It has been problem free so far. I also have ran it off small 100W PD power banks with no trouble. The cable was so cheap I bought an extra just in case and have the same cable planned for the boat and SxS.

 

[Fozzy]

Messed around with the Mini Router yesterday. It's pretty mini. I placed it in the middle of my house and my truck is parked about 100' outside and it has to go through two walls to link up. Used my Wifi connected EcoFlow and was able to turn on my SL mini without going outside. It was able to pair but kept getting the weak wifi signal strength warning. I had full Wifi bars on my iPhone every where in the house but was only getting 60 Mbps. Moved it to the kitchen where it only has about 50' and one wall to pass through. The low Wifi warning was gone and I was getting just over 200Mbps download pretty much every place on the main level. So with a small power station to run the router it would be a good back up for the house internet or camping to extend the range. If I have time this weekend I want to do a line of site test and see how far the router can be placed away from the dish and how far my phone can go from the router. Truck is parked where it has a view of the sky and camp is under some trees. I think this is how I would use this.

 

[Mister Bevilaqua]

Good to hear that the Amazon specials for the USB-C cables are getting it done. I ordered two of those and a suction cup mount off of Etsy for the truck pano roof. For now, I'll run it to the USB-C on the dash/console, I might run a hardwire to an up-fitter switch in time.

Now, I need to figure out a mount for the CanAm Defender. I am thinking about trying an angled molle panel dash mount so that it would face out with the angle of the windshield. It'll be nice to be able to switch it between the truck and the SxS.

 

[PDQ]

Now, I need to figure out a mount for the CanAm Defender. I am thinking about trying an angled molle panel dash mount so that it would face out with the angle of the windshield. It'll be nice to be able to switch it between the truck and the SxS.

This.
Following for a RZR, but same idea and either powering off the 12v cig lighter or a portable power source

 

[Optimus🤖]

Messed around with the Mini Router yesterday. It's pretty mini. I placed it in the middle of my house and my truck is parked about 100' outside and it has to go through two walls to link up. Used my Wifi connected EcoFlow and was able to turn on my SL mini without going outside. It was able to pair but kept getting the weak wifi signal strength warning. I had full Wifi bars on my iPhone every where in the house but was only getting 60 Mbps. Moved it to the kitchen where it only has about 50' and one wall to pass through. The low Wifi warning was gone and I was getting just over 200Mbps download pretty much every place on the main level. So with a small power station to run the router it would be a good back up for the house internet or camping to extend the range. If I have time this weekend I want to do a line of site test and see how far the router can be placed away from the dish and how far my phone can go from the router. Truck is parked where it has a view of the sky and camp is under some trees. I think this is how I would use this.

View attachment 212342

Absolutely brilliant: you used the mini router as a salt shaker. Love it!

 

[Fozzy]

I bought one of these with two additional bases. I added the locking option and the quick disconnect pig tail. I am going to use some of these universal mounts from Axis Allow for the boat and SxS. If the mount will keep the Mini below the roof antennas on the truck I will probable swap it out as well. Then its unlock, pull the pin and power quick disconnect and through it on the boat or SxS with limited hassle, I hope.

Starlink Mini Quick Release Mount

Quickly and easily mount and remove your Starlink Mini without the need for tools or any complicated process. Simply pull the red knob and your dish separates from the mount. Designed extremely tough to withstand gusty highway winds and nasty road vibrations. Designed to be bolted to any flat...

www.savageutv.com

Universal Mount- Single 8mm Female Nylock or Male Bolt – Axia Alloys

axiaalloys.com

 

[Canyon Trekker]

Anyone ever run their power to the SL Mini off an up-fitter switch?? (likely the 1-4 would be best)
Is that too much power (amps) through the SL Mini power cable (or aftermarket offerings)??

Seems as the nature of the SL is needing more "power/amps/voltage" to help prevent signal drop. Since there is a wide input allowance (12-48V) there's the SL need (seems to be 60-100W max) of power. I want to guess the math works out for lower voltage but higher amps means larger gauge wiring. Hence higher voltage means lower amps, smaller gauge wire should be able to handle the draw.

Would that mean the SL Mini power cable is the weak link driving the need for a higher applied voltage at a lower amperage??

Honestly my first plan was to just feed the SL Mini off an up-fitter (now 1-4). Research lead me down the rabbit trails of add-on converters, PD power adapters, larger gauge cables.....UUUUGGGGhhhhh. Stuck in the AP rut for how to feed this thing.

Starlink Mini Specs:
Antenna Electronic Phased Array

Power Consumption Input Rating Average: 25-40W 12-48V 60W (Approximately 2.1-3.3A @ 12V) (.5-.83A @ 48V)

Input Rating: 12-48V 60W (This may be the total draw which may include the "snow melt" feature.

Snow Melt Capability: Up to 25mm / hour (1 in / hour)

USB PD Requirement: 100W, 20V/5A Minimum (This is the rating of the USB power distribution socket, not the rating of the Mini.)

Any Upfitter wired direct will work fine.

 

[Wrathchild]

Follow up on dash mount for those interested…

As previously stated I only have it for once I leave pavement and hit dirt looking for campsites or OnX pins. Super easy to pop in and out. Works exactly as I needed it. No more bouncing around. Visibility is affected and probably wouldn’t use it like this on the highway. I also don’t notice any reflection from the antenna. Pictures seem to pick it up way more.

One thing I need to work on is reliably connecting to it. CarPlay always wants to connect wirelessly then I have to fiddle with disconnecting, then using a wired connection.

 

[NightForceFan]

Good to hear that the Amazon specials for the USB-C cables are getting it done. I ordered two of those and a suction cup mount off of Etsy for the truck pano roof. For now, I'll run it to the USB-C on the dash/console, I might run a hardwire to an up-fitter switch in time.

Now, I need to figure out a mount for the CanAm Defender. I am thinking about trying an angled molle panel dash mount so that it would face out with the angle of the windshield. It'll be nice to be able to switch it between the truck and the SxS.

Short throw shifter should get here tomorrow. I need to drill out the Trail Icon dash mount to fit the T bolts that came with the Amazon special mount I bought. Will post here and text you the results if it works.

 

[JTredway]

Jesus I love this thread, it's super nerdy. I am going to try my SLm next weekend, my FiL just purchased some ungodly amount of acres down in middle/south GA and we are going to ride the trails with his Utility SxS cart thing. They use it as a tach kart for the horses with its small dump bed, it's not a golf cart but it's not a full fledged SxS either. Is 4wd though and a cell phone dead zone where we are going.

 

[Mister Bevilaqua]

Follow up on dash mount for those interested…

As previously stated I only have it for once I leave pavement and hit dirt looking for campsites or OnX pins. Super easy to pop in and out. Works exactly as I needed it. No more bouncing around. Visibility is affected and probably wouldn’t use it like this on the highway. I also don’t notice any reflection from the antenna. Pictures seem to pick it up way more.

One thing I need to work on is reliably connecting to it. CarPlay always wants to connect wirelessly then I have to fiddle with disconnecting, then using a wired connection.

View attachment 212461View attachment 212462

This is the one I have been considering. Good to know that it can handle the bouncing around.

Short throw shifter should get here tomorrow. I need to drill out the Trail Icon dash mount to fit the T bolts that came with the Amazon special mount I bought. Will post here and text you the results if it works.

Take your time with the Trail Icon dash mount install. You'll want to be certain of where you're drilling before making the first hole. I have been enjoying both of those mods, and once done, they will certainly provide ample room in that area.

 

[Slippers]

I bought one of these with two additional bases. I added the locking option and the quick disconnect pig tail. I am going to use some of these universal mounts from Axis Allow for the boat and SxS. If the mount will keep the Mini below the roof antennas on the truck I will probable swap it out as well. Then its unlock, pull the pin and power quick disconnect and through it on the boat or SxS with limited hassle, I hope.

Starlink Mini Quick Release Mount

Quickly and easily mount and remove your Starlink Mini without the need for tools or any complicated process. Simply pull the red knob and your dish separates from the mount. Designed extremely tough to withstand gusty highway winds and nasty road vibrations. Designed to be bolted to any flat...

www.savageutv.com

Universal Mount- Single 8mm Female Nylock or Male Bolt – Axia Alloys

axiaalloys.com

When it's locked, does it prevent someone from simply unclipping the kickstand and running off with your starlink mini?

This would seem like an obvious thing if you're offering a lock, but the product description mentions that you can unclip the kickstand if you don't want to purchase the quick release power cable extension.

 

[Godzilla/Tremornator]

Absolutely brilliant: you used the mini router as a salt shaker. Love it!

pepper was the signal enhancement

 

[Canyon Trekker]

pepper was the signal enhancement

I thought it was the "ground" element... I stand corrected.