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Featured
- #321
Rough Country Hidden Winch Mount
- OP 🔹 wheelin-amos
- Start date
Well that's not going to work...
I can move the selector up or down 25°, but the bumper may interfere with it. If so, I'll be cutting the bracket.
On the right side, the bracket just barely clears the body of the winch and the positive cable. I also may have to notch that area out when it comes time to mount the bumper, as the bracket is up nearly all the way in the slot holes where the bumper mounts to the frame.
To be continued...
I can move the selector up or down 25°, but the bumper may interfere with it. If so, I'll be cutting the bracket.
On the right side, the bracket just barely clears the body of the winch and the positive cable. I also may have to notch that area out when it comes time to mount the bumper, as the bracket is up nearly all the way in the slot holes where the bumper mounts to the frame.
To be continued...
Attachments
I thought about flipping it, but the negative is on the back side currently and I would have the same issue there. Not sure if it can be rotated 90° though... Weather permitting, I'll spend some time on it later tomorrow.
I also am curious if I can flip the clutch lever 180°. My photo above has the clutch in the engaged position, which requires it going counter-clockwise to disengage. Though, if I can flip it, then I should be able to swing it on the right side in lieu of the left.
Success. I was able to rotate the clutch lever 180° after taking apart the winch. Luckily, the sticker could also be easily rotated. 
Now onto the issue of the winch not fitting in between the brackets on the bumper. Although the winch tray instructions show the fairlead bracket installed in between the frame and the bumper, I'm planning on installing mine in front of the bumper. If I were to install the fairlead bracket in between, I'd have an issue with the left of the fairlead bracket interfering with the bumper, given the angle...
I had some 3/4" spacers on hand to try to space the bumper and fairlead bracket forward some, but the factory bolts aren't long enough, and 3/4" was more than what I needed. I think I'll head to Ace tomorrow and get some washers and maybe some longer bolts. If I don't space it out, then I'll have to cut the brackets on the bumper. I want to hold off on that for now and see if I can space it out enough for the bumper to clear the winch.
Now onto the issue of the winch not fitting in between the brackets on the bumper. Although the winch tray instructions show the fairlead bracket installed in between the frame and the bumper, I'm planning on installing mine in front of the bumper. If I were to install the fairlead bracket in between, I'd have an issue with the left of the fairlead bracket interfering with the bumper, given the angle...
I had some 3/4" spacers on hand to try to space the bumper and fairlead bracket forward some, but the factory bolts aren't long enough, and 3/4" was more than what I needed. I think I'll head to Ace tomorrow and get some washers and maybe some longer bolts. If I don't space it out, then I'll have to cut the brackets on the bumper. I want to hold off on that for now and see if I can space it out enough for the bumper to clear the winch.
To be honest I didn’t read the instructions when I installed mine but seems like it would be physically impossible for the fairlead bracket to go behind the bumper. The brackets on the bumper would be all in the way. Good job on the clutch lever, these mounts appear to be pretty versatile with some ingenuity.
I had to space my bumper 3/4” and trim the bumper.
I had to space my bumper 3/4” and trim the bumper.
Thanks for sharing that. I looked back at your setup and I really like that you put the control box behind the fog light. I'll have to do something similar, as the large sherpa box is just asking to get beat in the RC kit's location. Luckily, I picked up the wireless controller for the winch, so accessing the box doesn't have to be too convenient.
Can you share why you had to space the bumper AND cut it? I know we have different winches, but I'm just wondering what prevented yours from clearing the cut bumper brackets that required you to space it too.
The body on the zeon winch is huge. It won’t fit between the bumper brackets without trimming each side, then vertically it won’t clear the bottom edge of the bumper opening without a bare minimum of a 3/4” spacer.
In this picture you can see the bottom edge of the bumper almost touching the winch. Also reminds me about the valence bolts you might want to remove or flip while you have the bumper off.
In this picture you can see the bottom edge of the bumper almost touching the winch. Also reminds me about the valence bolts you might want to remove or flip while you have the bumper off.
That's very helpful. Thank you!
Alright, boys and girls. She's installed and the bumper is put back on after trimming and priming the brackets. While the fit is good now, I may trim the brackets further towards the bottom to get some better clearance for the winch. No spacers were needed.
I still need to move the control box. I have a wireless remote for it, so I don't need it to be very accessible, so I'll likely mount it behind the driver's side fog light like @Jackjam did. Thanks again, JJ, for sharing your experience.
I still need to move the control box. I have a wireless remote for it, so I don't need it to be very accessible, so I'll likely mount it behind the driver's side fog light like @Jackjam did. Thanks again, JJ, for sharing your experience.
Last edited:
- Aug 7, 2023
- 18
- 18
- NAVY / FMF Corpsman
- Retired LEO
- 2023 F250 Tremor
- 1989 GMC JIMMY
I don't see ANY DIFFERENCE whatsoever! I've been comparing stock photos of '23's next to the '22 with the winch mounted in it on Rough Country's website... NO difference! This is really frustrating me!!! Rough Country is about to lose a sale!!! Are there any significant changes that you know of???
DTX2023Tremor
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+5
My shop had to trim a bracket a little as the fairlead mount is hitting some of the bracketry for the bumper. A little bit of work to make it fit, but overall the kit works with the rough country winch.
- Aug 7, 2023
- 18
- 18
- NAVY / FMF Corpsman
- Retired LEO
- 2023 F250 Tremor
- 1989 GMC JIMMY
So, where they had to trim is on the back of your bumper? The factory bumper bracket? And just so I'm clear, there is NO modification of anything else? I think I got confused by some other posts talking about relocating the ACC radar, but what I'm now understanding is that they were talking about switching to an aftermarket bumper. I just want to confirm that the RC setup WILL fit a '23 Tremor with a 7.3, even though RC WON'T tell you that.
DTX2023Tremor
Bourbon & Tremor Enthusiast
Tremor of the Month 🏆
Founding Member 📜
Meetup Organizer 🚧
GB Coordinator 📢
Trail Captain 🧭
Moab Trail Run 2026
Kentucky Ford Plant Tour 2026
Flagstaff Trail Run 2026
Big Bend Trail Run 2025
+5
Yes, it will fit. Only need to relocate the ACC module if you go with the Gorman winch mount (a sturdier mount, but that is a downside). If you want to go with a winch other than the rough country, then you've gotta do a lot of work to get the winch to fit. So if you want a different winch, may be better going with the Gorman mount and relocating the ACC.
I don't plan on using the winch often, so spending the greater cost for the Gorman mount, plus cost to get it welded and powder coated, meant nearly 8x the cost of the Rough Country mount.
- Aug 7, 2023
- 18
- 18
- NAVY / FMF Corpsman
- Retired LEO
- 2023 F250 Tremor
- 1989 GMC JIMMY
Thanks for the info! Same thinking here I don't plan on using the winch often, but I want it for the just in case scenario! lol. So the RC is good enough for me, and if I need more than 12K pounds + a snatch block I've probably got bigger problems!
I came here looking for winch mounting options, but I can’t resist reviving a good old winch debate. I beat this dead horse on a regular basis on the jeep forums.
I’ve run Warn winches on trucks and jeeps since the 70s. They have performed flawlessly. Some of them were still going strong after more than twenty years. Having said that, Warn has followed what I call “the Sears tool marketing plan”.
Back in the day (through the early 70s) Sears sold fantastic Craftsman tools with unconditional lifetime warranties. On the few occasions when a tool failed my dad would swing by Sears, drop the ratchet at the hardware desk, and grab a new one off the shelf. It still worked like that when I was first buying tools, but Sears decided to capitalize on their great reputation by selling a new “pricepoint” (cheap) line of tools and stamp “Sears” on the tools instead of “Craftsman”. The new “Sears” tools were inexpensive, and the Sears reputation was rock solid, so the tools sold like hotcakes … for a while. I mistakenly trusted the Sears name and bought some of those cheap tools which promptly broke. There was no warranty on those, and my opinion of Sears declined. In my opinion, that was the beginning of the end for Sears. For the last twenty-plus years Warn has been doing the same thing. They are branding and selling crappy Chinese winches that are built to weak specs.
The Chinese are capable of building quality stuff, as some of their latest military hardware proves, but that’s not what most American manufactures seem to contract for. The cheaper Warn winches are not well made. After reading all the stories online and talking to the owner of a facility that rebuilds the 30 and 40 year old Warns, I would never buy one of the cheap ones. I have a Warn Zeon 10S on my Jeep, but it’s only 5 years old, it’s had fewer than a dozen pulls, and it’s never been fully submerged, so the jury is still out.
We’re in our current predicament because Americans don’t seem to value quality they way we used to. I have a 1970s Kenmore refrigerator-freezer and a 1970s Kenmore chest freezer in my garage. They both still work great after nearly fifty years, many moves, and decades of service in our garages (which most refrigerators are no longer designed to tolerate). But we just bought our FOURTH kitchen refrigerator since we moved into our current home 23 years ago. They keep dying. Every purchase was based upon extensive research, and three of the four were top “Consumer Reports” recommendations. We’ve had similar experience with washing machines. (If you want an eye-full, Google modern appliance durability…) The marketplace is full of crappy products because we keep buying them. If I was going to buy a Chinese winch I definitely wouldn’t pay the upcharge to get one with a Warn sticker on the front.
I’ve run Warn winches on trucks and jeeps since the 70s. They have performed flawlessly. Some of them were still going strong after more than twenty years. Having said that, Warn has followed what I call “the Sears tool marketing plan”.
Back in the day (through the early 70s) Sears sold fantastic Craftsman tools with unconditional lifetime warranties. On the few occasions when a tool failed my dad would swing by Sears, drop the ratchet at the hardware desk, and grab a new one off the shelf. It still worked like that when I was first buying tools, but Sears decided to capitalize on their great reputation by selling a new “pricepoint” (cheap) line of tools and stamp “Sears” on the tools instead of “Craftsman”. The new “Sears” tools were inexpensive, and the Sears reputation was rock solid, so the tools sold like hotcakes … for a while. I mistakenly trusted the Sears name and bought some of those cheap tools which promptly broke. There was no warranty on those, and my opinion of Sears declined. In my opinion, that was the beginning of the end for Sears. For the last twenty-plus years Warn has been doing the same thing. They are branding and selling crappy Chinese winches that are built to weak specs.
The Chinese are capable of building quality stuff, as some of their latest military hardware proves, but that’s not what most American manufactures seem to contract for. The cheaper Warn winches are not well made. After reading all the stories online and talking to the owner of a facility that rebuilds the 30 and 40 year old Warns, I would never buy one of the cheap ones. I have a Warn Zeon 10S on my Jeep, but it’s only 5 years old, it’s had fewer than a dozen pulls, and it’s never been fully submerged, so the jury is still out.
We’re in our current predicament because Americans don’t seem to value quality they way we used to. I have a 1970s Kenmore refrigerator-freezer and a 1970s Kenmore chest freezer in my garage. They both still work great after nearly fifty years, many moves, and decades of service in our garages (which most refrigerators are no longer designed to tolerate). But we just bought our FOURTH kitchen refrigerator since we moved into our current home 23 years ago. They keep dying. Every purchase was based upon extensive research, and three of the four were top “Consumer Reports” recommendations. We’ve had similar experience with washing machines. (If you want an eye-full, Google modern appliance durability…) The marketplace is full of crappy products because we keep buying them. If I was going to buy a Chinese winch I definitely wouldn’t pay the upcharge to get one with a Warn sticker on the front.
- OP 🔹
- #337
I can't disagree w/ your post. Spot on!
I think the correct phrasing for this is: People know the price of everything and the value of nothing.
I tried to install it on my 24 6.7 today. The bracket was a little tedious, but worked. It was the updated version, already cut short. I had to remove the front cross member to get the rear supports to fit but bolted it back up when finished.
The Badlands winch, on the other hand, is pretty frustrating to deal with. I took the motor cover off. You also have to remove the end of the gearbox side as well, which is screwed together with button head screws under a planetary gear. You have to take the gearbox apart to do this...and it's just removing a useless empty section of the cover.
Their control box relocation is not great. It just keeps the original box, which is huge. The instructions say to use "copper" stud extensions for the electrical studs, and include a nice box to cover this relocation...but it won't work with the extensions that they say to use AND you can't even mount the box as they say, as you would be drilling directly into the winch motor. The electrical studs on the winch are loose and spin freely.
Finally, I got everything hooked up and got a solenoid click, but no winch engagement. I re-read the instructions, disconnected, and then reconnected all the lines. Still, just a solenoid click. I assume it is something with the studs not being connected properly internally.
The Badlands winch, on the other hand, is pretty frustrating to deal with. I took the motor cover off. You also have to remove the end of the gearbox side as well, which is screwed together with button head screws under a planetary gear. You have to take the gearbox apart to do this...and it's just removing a useless empty section of the cover.
Their control box relocation is not great. It just keeps the original box, which is huge. The instructions say to use "copper" stud extensions for the electrical studs, and include a nice box to cover this relocation...but it won't work with the extensions that they say to use AND you can't even mount the box as they say, as you would be drilling directly into the winch motor. The electrical studs on the winch are loose and spin freely.
Finally, I got everything hooked up and got a solenoid click, but no winch engagement. I re-read the instructions, disconnected, and then reconnected all the lines. Still, just a solenoid click. I assume it is something with the studs not being connected properly internally.
Ended up taking the winch back and they exchanged it no issues. Got a new one and hooked it up, worked fine.
I have to say that I can’t recommend using the Badlands winch with the RC kit.
1) you have to remove the end cover of the gear side. That details removing all of the gear sets and planetaries, then using a wobble Allen key (4mm) to get four bolts from under the second planetary.
2) I had to cut a corner of the gear side cover, still. I also used a grinder on a corner of the mount on that side
3) you can’t use the clutch lever without cutting a pretty good portion of the lever itself and the weakest area of the fairlead mount. I cut it with a bandsaw and then reinforced by welding a piece behind the area I cut. I work in the hospital, so don’t make fun of my cuts and welding. I’m going to coat the handle end with Plastidip and painting the mount again. Not sure if my weld is enough to brace but we will see.
4) control relocation kit is unusable. It’s huge and not easy to mount. I ordered a relocation box off Amazon and will do that when it comes in.
I have to say that I can’t recommend using the Badlands winch with the RC kit.
1) you have to remove the end cover of the gear side. That details removing all of the gear sets and planetaries, then using a wobble Allen key (4mm) to get four bolts from under the second planetary.
2) I had to cut a corner of the gear side cover, still. I also used a grinder on a corner of the mount on that side
3) you can’t use the clutch lever without cutting a pretty good portion of the lever itself and the weakest area of the fairlead mount. I cut it with a bandsaw and then reinforced by welding a piece behind the area I cut. I work in the hospital, so don’t make fun of my cuts and welding. I’m going to coat the handle end with Plastidip and painting the mount again. Not sure if my weld is enough to brace but we will see.
4) control relocation kit is unusable. It’s huge and not easy to mount. I ordered a relocation box off Amazon and will do that when it comes in.
