Rough Country Hidden Winch Mount

[pickleknuckles]

Bump. Been awhile.. anyone else install the Rough Country kit yet? Did they finally revise the mounting plate so it doesn’t interfere?

Under Fitment Notes their site still says 'ONLY fits gas models.'

 

[Maxx1776]

Control box is mounted on top of the battery and is removable, looks like crap but that's the only location that would work for me. I did add a 500 amp control solenoid so I could use the upfitter switch as a disconnect. I was wrong about not being able to use the first 15' of rope, after preloading the line winching my sons F250 clearance is not an issue, I could put the original control box mount back on if I wanted to.

 

[pods8]

Anyone see any reason this winch wouldn't work with a steel hawse fairlead (steel cable winch)? Nothing comes to mind but speaking out loud. I don't think there is enough gap in the front end opening for a roller fairlead. Reason I'm asking is I have a 12000lb steel cable winch I pulled off my old truck just sitting here that I think would fit into this bracket so it would just be the cost of the bracket and steel fairlead.

 

[pods8]

I did add a 500 amp control solenoid

What one did you pick?

 

[BroncOh]

What one did you pick?

I would just use the existing one in the winch control pack as it’s already there. Adding another increases complexity.

 

[pods8]

I would just use the existing one in the winch control pack as it’s already there. Adding another increases complexity.

I always worried about parasitic draw (perhaps irrationally). My prior rig I had dual terminal battery cables and would just connect the winch lines in the rare cases I needed it.

 

[BroncOh]

I always worried about parasitic draw (perhaps irrationally). My prior rig I had dual terminal battery cables and would just connect the winch lines in the rare cases I needed it.

That is why you put an upfitter to control the existing solenoid in the winch pack. No parasitic draw.

 

[pods8]

That is why you put an upfitter to control the existing solenoid in the winch pack. No parasitic draw.

Talking it out: crack open the existing box and disconnect the positive jumper going to the PIN plug and replace that with a positive coming from the upfitter switch. Or is there a different method?

 

[BroncOh]

Talking it out: crack open the existing box and disconnect the positive jumper going to the PIN plug and replace that with a positive coming from the upfitter switch. Or is there a different method?

Essentially correct. Somewhere on the forum there is a photo of the inside of a Warn control pack.

 

[pods8]

Essentially correct. Somewhere on the forum there is a photo of the inside of a Warn control pack.

This isn't specifically a warn but I would expect the internals are very similar across the brands.

 

[BroncOh]

This isn't specifically a warn but I would expect the internals are very similar across the brands.

Exactly

 

[BroncOh]

This isn't specifically a warn but I would expect the internals are very similar across the brands.

Red wire would be disconnected from the lug terminal and run directly to an upfitter for this one (example only).

Pic credit to @Alpoba

 

[Maxx1776]

Red wire would be disconnected from the lug terminal and run directly to an upfitter for this one (example only).

Pic credit to @Alpoba

This is the perfect example why I am a member, I never even thought about using this method. Looks like I will be changing my setup thank you for pointing this out.

 

[pods8]

Red wire would be disconnected from the lug terminal and run directly to an upfitter for this one (example only).

Pic credit to @Alpoba

Different form factor but same deal. Looks good considering it was on the front of my old truck for 11yrs! Inspecting the motor and gearbox is next but it unspooled the cable off earlier in the year before I removed it from that truck so that’s a good start.

 

[pods8]

Got this and installed a similar form factor winch I had around, it fits which was phase 1 of the install. Now that I know it fits I need to get a fairlead mounted, figure out my wiring plan, and a flip down license plate/relocation.

Overall the kit seems decent. Swapping out for beefier washers on some of the slotted holes probably isn't a bad idea, when I torqued the bolts to grade 8 specs (none provided in the kit) some of the washers bent a bit, hindsight 20-20.

Why this winch? I had it for starters. Its got a 6.6hp motor on it, double lip seals, etc. It has previously pulled a dodge 2500 with a camper on it out of really stuck creek bed, it lived on the front of a truck outside everyday for 11yrs (ran fine to unspool the cable before I took it off that truck) and I just pulled it apart for the first time before mounting it to overhaul it. Motor looks just fine and the gear box only showed minor moisture in the grease in the back half where the freespool lever provides a leak path. Its noisy but works, has held up, pulls hard in the times I've used it. AND... I already had it. Glad rough country produced this bracket, I'll likely have <$300 into getting this winch mounted up and overhauled. Maybe a tad more depending on where I choose to mount the solenoid box.

I sprayed things with fluid shield before mounting them if the surface finish looks weird to anyone that is why.

Cleaned it then regreased with aeroshell 64.

Used steel wool on the contacts and contact cleaner before reassembling.

 

[pods8]

Okay, mostly done with my install now, I had to pull the winch back off and clock the motor to vertical, I didn't like the terminals facing forward. When torqueing down the M10 10.9 bolts one stretched (not sure if the nut or the bolt was what failed) so I changed all the hardware out to 7/16" grade 8 which was readily available and just required opening up the holes a couple 32s.

I needed longer wires both for the solenoid box location and also the main lines, I ordered new main lines and used the original lines to make new wires between the solenoid box and the winch. I needed 8' between my battery negative terminal and winch ground, the positive I ordered as 8' also but 7' likely would have worked (but some slack within reason doesn't hurt).

Despite these solenoids being sealed up I built a weather tight enclosure to house it and the connections in and mounted it on the backside of the winch mounting plate so its tucked away and shielded.

I am going to use a steel cable still on my winch so I ordered a warn CAST IRON hawse that is rated to be used with cable, I'm just waiting on a new hook to spool on the cable (my current hook the gate won't close on the factory tow hooks).

Outstanding: mount hook/cable, pick an upfitter switch to tie the remote wire into that I ran separately, modify my license plate bracket to fit over this (want the cable installed first so I know how much offset).


Prototyping the solenoid box, the final version was printed in ASA.

Warn hawse with some printed plugs for the bolt holes.

Solenoid box tucked behind the mounting plate. All the wiring comes over the top of the winch plate, nothing routed below to get damaged.

 

[BroncOh]

Okay, mostly done with my install now, I had to pull the winch back off and clock the motor to vertical, I didn't like the terminals facing forward. When torqueing down the M10 10.9 bolts one stretched (not sure if the nut or the bolt was what failed) so I changed all the hardware out to 7/16" grade 8 which was readily available and just required opening up the holes a couple 32s.

I needed longer wires both for the solenoid box location and also the main lines, I ordered new main lines and used the original lines to make new wires between the solenoid box and the winch. I needed 8' between my battery negative terminal and winch ground, the positive I ordered as 8' also but 7' likely would have worked (but some slack within reason doesn't hurt).

Despite these solenoids being sealed up I built a weather tight enclosure to house it and the connections in and mounted it on the backside of the winch mounting plate so its tucked away and shielded.

I am going to use a steel cable still on my winch so I ordered a warn CAST IRON hawse that is rated to be used with cable, I'm just waiting on a new hook to spool on the cable (my current hook the gate won't close on the factory tow hooks).

Outstanding: mount hook/cable, pick an upfitter switch to tie the remote wire into that I ran separately, modify my license plate bracket to fit over this (want the cable installed first so I know how much offset).


Prototyping the solenoid box, the final version was printed in ASA.

Warn hawse with some printed plugs for the bolt holes.

Solenoid box tucked behind the mounting plate. All the wiring comes over the top of the winch plate, nothing routed below to get damaged.

Looking good!

 

[MVI]

Okay, mostly done with my install now,

if you are using steel cable, are you adding a cable tensioner of some sort?
The reason I ask is the spool is hidden with this bumper

 

[pods8]

if you are using steel cable, are you adding a cable tensioner of some sort?
The reason I ask is the spool is hidden with this bumper

View attachment 133334

View attachment 133336

Honestly wasn't even aware of those. At the moment I'll probably run it as is, I don't expect frequent usage and didn't really run into problems with this winch on my dodge before (but you could get to it easier if needed) but if I run into an issue I'll certainly add one on.

 

[MVI]

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Bulldog-Winch/BDW20234.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvPPIyOiMggMVbDbUAR0QdAQTEAQYASABEgIuR_D_BwE