Project Shadowfax

Its not about the rotation, it was about appr. 1/2 inch of the back of noco still pushing against inner plastic trim. Once you remove the trim, noco can go back all the way. Alternatively, you can offset the noco from the center to the left and it wont bump into anything, but i wanted the centered look. Its also possible your inner trim is a bit different. The reason i think ccw didnt have it is because with a winch that whole plastic part is not there to begin with. I dont have a winch, so it got real plasticy around those parts:)
Ah that makes sense about the winch making a difference! Good call!
 
Saturday Shadowfax got his third servicing at about 10,200 miles. Overall was a pretty uneventful servicing. Still love the Stahlbus drain plug (install post: https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/project-shadowfax.6005/post-143901).

When removing the oil filter this time I used an empty gallon milk jug with the top cut off to help catch the oil. This is needed because of the skid plate. Worked wonders compared to using nothing, and caught most of the oil. Though still might invest in the oil udder that’s been brought up here on the forum.

Other thing of note was, while inspecting the underside, I saw a wire clip that wasn’t clipped to anything. I have a dedicated post asking about that:


And lastly, catch can contents. No picture this time, but it had roughly the same amount as previously. Biggest difference is it was much less milky in color and smelled much less like gas. I presume this is a result of the engine fully breaking in, though maybe I drove the truck differently this cycle.

Regardless, next oil change will happen around 15,000 miles!
 
Today Shadowfax lost his leash! Well, his gas cap did. :D

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Like so many here on the forum (and I’m sure outside the forum) I found the gas cap tether to be a royal PITA. Constantly gets twisted up. This is particularly so after coming from the capless system Ford has on the F-150 and many of their other vehicles.

While there’s no way (that I know of) to switch to capless, one of these holders at least lets you remove the tether.

While I didn’t go with their holder, I do want to call out @kmtweb here on the forum. Check out their holder here:


I went with the one I did (linked at the bottom of this post) for two reasons:
  1. I totally forgot that ktmweb’s existed and wasn’t reminded of it until after I ordered the one I did.
  2. The one I did order attaches with bolts rather than double sided tape. I’m a fan of nuts and bolts. I think there’s too much tape/glue on vehicles already, so in hindsight it’s likely I would have went the way I did if I knew about both options at the same time.
As for the install, it’s super simple. Follow the instructions in the product description on the Etsy page. Once the holder was installed, I used a right angle pick to push the plug out that was holding the tether to the fuel door, then used side cutters to snip the tether off of the cap.

Links:
 
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Today Shadowfax lost his leash! Well, his gas cap did. :D

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View attachment 53111

Like so many here on the forum (and I’m sure outside the forum) I found the gas cap tether to be a royal PITA. Constantly gets twisted up. This is particularly so after coming from the capless system Ford has on the F-150 and many of their other vehicles.

While there’s no way (that I know of) to switch to capless, one of these holders at least lets you remove the tether.

While I didn’t go with their holder, I do want to call out @kmtweb here on the forum. Check out their holder here:


I went with the one I did (linked at the bottom of this post) for two reasons:
  1. I totally forgot that ktmweb’s existed and wasn’t reminded of it until after I ordered the one I did.
  2. The one I did order attaches with bolts rather than double sided tape. I’m a fan of nuts and bolts. I think there’s too much tape/glue on vehicles already, so in hindsight it’s likely I would have went the way I did if I knew about both options at the same time.
As for the install, it’s super simple. Follow the instructions in the product description on the Etsy page. Once the holder was installed, I used a right angle pick to push the plug out that was holding the tether to the fuel door, then used side cutters to snip the tether off of the cap.

Links:
I wonder if it would work with the bem lock cap size wise. So far i have been putting it either on top of my diamondback or in my pocket (lol) while i fill up.
 

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I wonder if it would work with the bem lock cap size wise. So far i have been putting it either on top of my diamondback or in my pocket (lol) while i fill up.
Since it holds onto the threads it should work! By definition the threads are the same, so as long as the Bem cap doesn’t have a sheath or something obscuring the threads then it will work.

My main concern would be the weight of the aluminum. It really doesn’t hold the gas cap very securely. That’s fine since it’s a super temporary thing, but if the aluminum is heavy enough compared to the plastic OEM cap it may leverage itself out of the holder.

It’s possible kmtweb’s design would be better in that regard.
 
Today Shadowfax lost his leash! Well, his gas cap did. :D

View attachment 53110
View attachment 53111

Like so many here on the forum (and I’m sure outside the forum) I found the gas cap tether to be a royal PITA. Constantly gets twisted up. This is particularly so after coming from the capless system Ford has on the F-150 and many of their other vehicles.

While there’s no way (that I know of) to switch to capless, one of these holders at least lets you remove the tether.

While I didn’t go with their holder, I do want to call out @kmtweb here on the forum. Check out their holder here:


I went with the one I did (linked at the bottom of this post) for two reasons:
  1. I totally forgot that ktmweb’s existed and wasn’t reminded of it until after I ordered the one I did.
  2. The one I did order attaches with bolts rather than double sided tape. I’m a fan of nuts and bolts. I think there’s too much tape/glue on vehicles already, so in hindsight it’s likely I would have went the way I did if I knew about both options at the same time.
As for the install, it’s super simple. Follow the instructions in the product description on the Etsy page. Once the holder was installed, I used a right angle pick to push the plug out that was holding the tether to the fuel door, then used side cutters to snip the tether off of the cap.

Links:
I got the same one a few weeks ago but haven't installed yet. Your install looks great. I need to get back on the truck project after we get settled into the new home.
 
Man they really are soaking all you guys on these cap holders. An ENTIRE 1 KG SPOOL of filament (capable of making 50+ of these filler caps) is only 20 dollars. I need to design some 3D printed stuff so you'll shower me with cash too.
 
Man they really are soaking all you guys on these cap holders. An ENTIRE 1 KG SPOOL of filament (capable of making 50+ of these filler caps) is only 20 dollars. I need to design some 3D printed stuff so you'll shower me with cash too.
Eh, I know I’m not just paying for the material but wear and tear on the machine, the machine time (opportunity cost that it can’t be doing something else), the person’s time to figure out the design, etc.

Could I do all of that? Sure. Would all of that time and effort (don’t mind the up-front cost of the printer, since I don’t currently have one) be worth more than $20 to me right now? Absolutely. So I pay $20 to have something shipped to me already done.
 
I got the same one a few weeks ago but haven't installed yet. Your install looks great. I need to get back on the truck project after we get settled into the new home.
If you find you have a few minutes to poke at the truck it really is a 10-15 minute install, including time to to mock up the location of it.

But I hear ya. Settling into a new home is very consuming. Congrats on the new home!
 
Eh, I know I’m not just paying for the material but wear and tear on the machine, the machine time (opportunity cost that it can’t be doing something else), the person’s time to figure out the design, etc.

Could I do all of that? Sure. Would all of that time and effort (don’t mind the up-front cost of the printer, since I don’t currently have one) be worth more than $20 to me right now? Absolutely. So I pay $20 to have something shipped to me already done.
Your right. I'm mostly razzing. For the most part, I do the same thing. Time is money, and sometimes your time is worth more :)
 
I wonder if it would work with the bem lock cap size wise. So far i have been putting it either on top of my diamondback or in my pocket (lol) while i fill up.
I’m currently running the bem cap with a holder from @kmtweb. To answer your question, yes it kinda works as intended, but I’ve found that placing it “backwards” and leaning it against the inside of the fuel door is way more stable and less prone to falling off. If I remember I’ll snap a picture the next time I fill up.
 
Man they really are soaking all you guys on these cap holders. An ENTIRE 1 KG SPOOL of filament (capable of making 50+ of these filler caps) is only 20 dollars. I need to design some 3D printed stuff so you'll shower me with cash too.
He w much is it to purchase a 3D printer and learn how to use it correctly??

I ordered one of them Fo $27 and change all told & it’s cheap for someone who has zero idea how to make these
 
He w much is it to purchase a 3D printer and learn how to use it correctly??

I ordered one of them Fo $27 and change all told & it’s cheap for someone who has zero idea how to make these
If you want to avoid frustration, a Prusa mini is a good place to start.

There's two categories of most 3D printing users:
1) Tinkering. Spending as much, if not more time working on/'upgrading' the printer than printing useful objects. Printing a bunch of junk and trinkets.
2) Just using it. Treating it as a tool and investment that it is to turn your ideas into reality.

@Sludgemonkey44 Hope you ditch the bem cap eventually for something better :)
 
If you want to avoid frustration, a Prusa mini is a good place to start.

There's two categories of most 3D printing users:
1) Tinkering. Spending as much, if not more time working on/'upgrading' the printer than printing useful objects. Printing a bunch of junk and trinkets.
2) Just using it. Treating it as a tool and investment that it is to turn your ideas into reality.

@Sludgemonkey44 Hope you ditch the bem cap eventually for something better :)
I did step 1 for the first 5 months of ownership. There's nearly nothing on my Ender 3 Pro that is stock at this point. That being said, it truly did work great right out of the box. I promised myself when I got my printer I wouldn't just print all kinds of worthless trinket crap. I've done a pretty good job of not doing that and only print parts and things I need/want for projects I'm working on.

What frustrates me are the individuals who clearly violate the free use rules and take someone else's design and print it and sell it. If you didn't design it, you shouldn't be able to profit off of it unless the original designer receives a cut.
 
I did step 1 for the first 5 months of ownership. There's nearly nothing on my Ender 3 Pro that is stock at this point. That being said, it truly did work great right out of the box. I promised myself when I got my printer I wouldn't just print all kinds of worthless trinket crap. I've done a pretty good job of not doing that and only print parts and things I need/want for projects I'm working on.

What frustrates me are the individuals who clearly violate the free use rules and take someone else's design and print it and sell it. If you didn't design it, you shouldn't be able to profit off of it unless the original designer receives a cut.
Glad to hear you're enjoying it. The Ender-3 is a good little machine.

Yeah, it really is sad. Especially when you can teach yourself CAD and learn a valuable skill instead of stealing someone's product and learn nothing.
 
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If you find you have a few minutes to poke at the truck it really is a 10-15 minute install, including time to to mock up the location of it.

But I hear ya. Settling into a new home is very consuming. Congrats on the new home!
Honestly I don't even know where the holder is at the moment, in a box somewhere. :unsure:
Actually we are freshly moved into a temporary rental that allows us to sell our current home asap, which is going on the market in the morning. Much work to be done before we will be able to close. Meanwhile the house we bought and are moving into eventually is in the process of a total remodel, which is on hold until our home is sold. The rental is next door to the remodel so things are going to get easier soon. And money will be freed up to say the least. As soon as the house sells, then it's full bore focus on the remodel to be complete late summer. The next step will be ordering our travel trailer and getting back to the truck. Just saying all this makes me feel like my life is racing away. I need retirement!! :LOL: 🍻
 
Honestly I don't even know where the holder is at the moment, in a box somewhere. :unsure:
Actually we are freshly moved into a temporary rental that allows us to sell our current home asap, which is going on the market in the morning. Much work to be done before we will be able to close. Meanwhile the house we bought and are moving into eventually is in the process of a total remodel, which is on hold until our home is sold. The rental is next door to the remodel so things are going to get easier soon. And money will be freed up to say the least. As soon as the house sells, then it's full bore focus on the remodel to be complete late summer. The next step will be ordering our travel trailer and getting back to the truck. Just saying all this makes me feel like my life is racing away. I need retirement!! :LOL: 🍻
Holy smokes that’s a lot happening at once! No kidding you want retirement!
 
If you want to avoid frustration, a Prusa mini is a good place to start.

There's two categories of most 3D printing users:
1) Tinkering. Spending as much, if not more time working on/'upgrading' the printer than printing useful objects. Printing a bunch of junk and trinkets.
2) Just using it. Treating it as a tool and investment that it is to turn your ideas into reality.

@Sludgemonkey44 Hope you ditch the bem cap eventually for something better :)
I signed up for the email list a while back, just waiting for some guy who drives a red tremor to get all of his ducks in a row and unveils the final product(s). I’m looking forward to seeing it. If you have any pull with that guy, tell him that the masses are anxiously awaiting! 😁👊🏼
 
Today Shadowfax got some front interior bumper covers! First picture shows before, second picture after (they’re mirrored because first picture is the passenger side before install, second picture is driver side after install).

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The interior bumper covers were incredibly easy to install. I used the parts list in this post, courtesy of @HALL250:

This is what I ordered. The clips (nuts) and screws were easy to use and will give you a very secure installation. I’m sure the push pins that come with them will be fine but there are only two pins per package.
Item List
Part Description​
Qty.​
0a109ad833ff2fe8e14cf6132bfaa9e3.png
Part No.: -W712559-S900
SCREW​
8​
00751d7c5a3aec704d93b9f4d278fd45.png
Part No.: HC3Z-16E206-A
FILLER​
1​
00751d7c5a3aec704d93b9f4d278fd45.png
Part No.: HC3Z-16E207-A
FILLER​
1​
25f4518bab7598ee1a05b109878669bd.png
Part No.: -W708991-S439
NUT - HEX. - 'U'-BOLT​
8​


As noted in that thread, the covers come with two push pins pre-installed along with two empty holes. While you could order two matching push pins and have four push pins, in my opinion the screws are a far better option.

Total install time was maybe 15 minutes, including time to unravel the hose and blast out the dirt that had accumulated in the bumper before installing the covers?

No parts links this time as the table above has Ford part numbers.
 
Between yesterday and today, Shadowfax got 3 new Gatorback mud flaps in gunmetal! First picture shows the factory flap on the front, second the new flap. Third picture shows the rear.

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Why only three you may ask? Well, turns out I have some leftover damage from the deer hit in the form of some bent metal on the drivers side. That prevented a bracket from fitting properly. Once that's fixed I'll install the last flap, but in the meantime I've reinstalled the factory flap so I'm still legal.

Thread where that was discovered is here:


And you can follow along for updates on the fix if you want here:


As for the mud flaps: I love the look and quality of them. Gunmetal is the perfect color for the blackout package IMO. They are also heavy duty and premium. Admittedly, they should be for the price! Only reason I went with them is to spend Ford Pass Points I had earned through servicing my old truck and the purchase of the new truck. I'm excited to see how they hold up over time.

Some notes on the install:
  • Here's the install videos:
    • Front:
    • Rear:
  • Be sure to utilize both the install videos and the written instructions. I found I was mostly using the videos, but there were a few key steps where the written instructions clarified things.
  • Pay careful attention to whether their instructions are for a truck with or without flares and with or without liners. One time I didn't notice they had swapped back to talking about trucks without flares and went down a rabbit hole.
  • Front install was relatively straightforward, just a decent number of steps. Only thing that was confusing is the sheet metal screws you're provided to attach the flap itself to the bracket come in two sizes: short (one per side) and long (3 per side). None of the instructions clarified where the short screw goes. Quick call to the company sorted that out. Short screw goes in the only hole that doesn't have the strip washer in front of it.
  • Rear install is a bit of a bear if you have the OEM liners (and possibly third party liners?), excluding my bent sheet metal.
    • The retainer pins holding the liner in place are large and suck. I totally mangled one, and the others definitely saw some damage. In another thread it was worked out that the part number for those pins is: W715272-S300
    • In the video they imply you can easily bend the liner out of the way to get access to things behind. Perhaps this was true in previous model years, but with my truck the liners are stiff and pretty well locked into place. I could barely get the lower expansion nut out where you have the most flexibility, but then they want you to remove a bolt higher up. Plain and simple: there was no way I was going to fit a ratchet, socket, and unthreaded bolt up there. And a standard wrench would have taken forever.
    • After some fighting with things, then humming and hawing I figured out a workaround. Ultimately they want you to drill a hole through the liner. Their steps have you remove that upper bolt so you can stick a pick/awl through the bolt hole and punch a pilot hole through the liner. Instead, I stuffed a small right-angle pick up against the face of the bolt and pushed my pilot hole through. From there I was able to hold the liner out far enough to drill my larger hole with a stepped drill bit. Drilled it large enough to squeeze my 10mm socket through and get to the bolt so I could remove it. The larger hole isn't a problem as it's covered entirely by the front bracket, short of a bolt going through it.
    • The curved piece of metal that the rubber flap directly attaches to was curved too much, and wouldn't fit between the flare and fender flange without putting a ton of pressure on the bottom of the flare. I un-curved it over my knee a few times so it fit dramatically better.
Parts list:
 
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