Project Shadowfax

@Vermonster, check out this thread: Hidden front hitch receiver. This guy went with a Neutrik PowerCon connector that is about half as wide as the NoCo plug. It is a special plug but you can pick them up off of Amazon for $10 - $15, so they're easy to come by. Might make your relocation easier or at least give you another option based on size. Good luck!
Thank you - I like how small that is! I will check it out - I am not turned off on the Noco one yet...even so the factory dongle is just tucked up in there pretty well hidden. First world problems!
 
Man. I am in this same boat as you know. I am almost wondering if I can adapt something below the truck. I hope to crawl around under there in the next few days when things warm up. It's suppose to be 50 degrees warmer this week than last. That makes a difference. lol
Oof! 50 degrees makes a big difference! Curious to see what you figure out! While you're under there, you should take the opportunity to reroute the block heater cord to be less vulnerable if it was run anything like mine was.


Lots of interesting information, thanks. Good to know that you can easily take diamondback panel off when required. Did you put any padding in between panels, i figure the two locks can touch and scratch the surface of the opposite panels.

Didn't put any padding since it's advertised to be used this way. Also, I'm not concerned about the locks scratching the surfaces. It's literally lined with bed liner so if the locks can scratch the surface then there's bigger problems. :ROFLMAO:
 
Shadowfax has new shoes! 285/75R18 (stock size) Toyo Open Country AT3.

View attachment 45448View attachment 45450View attachment 45451

Honestly think I prefer the look of the DuraTracs by a bit, but in case you haven’t been following along, I needed the 3PMS. Discount Tire did the install and were great. Also got the certificates so if I damage a tire they will replace it.

This swap also made use of the extra wheel I got for the spare. Next tire rotation will be a 5 tire rotation. I got them to leave off the hub caps as I think I’ll prefer that look, and have the black lug nuts arriving tomorrow.

This was also the first time I’ve loaded up the bed since I got the Diamondback installed. Worked great! Decided to flop the rear panel fully open. Was able to fit 2 tires laying down under the rest of the cover and then 3 at the rear of the bed. Took a couple of seconds to disconnect the struts and flop the panel open.

The cleats worked great to strap the panel down, and the part I really loved: I could use the other cleats to tie off the excess strap!! No strap flapping in the breeze! :D
Initial tire thoughts on the drive home:

They are smooth. So were the Duratracs, so I wouldn't say an improvement, but couldn't feel a difference. On one chunk of pavement I noticed tire noise and can't say I have with the Duratracs. It wasn't terrible, just noticeable. That's a bit surprising given the seemingly less aggressive tread pattern.

The truck's tracking improved. It wasn't night and day, and the tracking with the Duratracs was totally fine IMO, but it feels like the steering tightened up a bit. That's a nice surprise!
 
Last edited:
Shadowfax has new shoes! 285/75R18 (stock size) Toyo Open Country AT3.

View attachment 45448View attachment 45450View attachment 45451

Honestly think I prefer the look of the DuraTracs by a bit, but in case you haven’t been following along, I needed the 3PMS. Discount Tire did the install and were great. Also got the certificates so if I damage a tire they will replace it.

This swap also made use of the extra wheel I got for the spare. Next tire rotation will be a 5 tire rotation. I got them to leave off the hub caps as I think I’ll prefer that look, and have the black lug nuts arriving tomorrow.

This was also the first time I’ve loaded up the bed since I got the Diamondback installed. Worked great! Decided to flop the rear panel fully open. Was able to fit 2 tires laying down under the rest of the cover and then 3 at the rear of the bed. Took a couple of seconds to disconnect the struts and flop the panel open.

The cleats worked great to strap the panel down, and the part I really loved: I could use the other cleats to tie off the excess strap!! No strap flapping in the breeze! :D

Edit: Follow-up post with initial driving impressions:


Parts:
Where did you order your black Lugs from?
 
Where did you order your black Lugs from?

If they’re sold out just keep checking back. They were out of stock for a week or two for me, and then I was able to order.

Link courtesy of @BroncoHooves. :)
 
Couple more things done to the truck today.

First of all I installed grease zerk covers on the front zerks. Credit to @BroncoHooves for this idea! No pictures. Install was super easy, just a bit greasy as I wiped excess grease off of the zerk, presumably from when they were first greased by the factory/dealer.

Parts:

Second, I organized the truck now that I have my Diamondback toolbox available. This adds some equipment to the truck compared to before:
  1. Tire chains and ramps to assist putting them on.
  2. Recovery gear, including everything I need for winching.
  3. Socket set.
  4. Hatchet.
Pictures below of the result. Only thing missing from the truck right now is my battery booster because I brought it inside to charge up. It hasn't been charged since I bought it 1.5 years ago. :oops: Set a recurring 6 month reminder to charge it up in the future.

View attachment 44782View attachment 44783
You might want to reconsider some of that gear. My 2021 Tremor replaced a 2017 Sierra Denali that I rolled 6 - 8 times at 85 mph. I had all of my trailer gear under the backseat including inserts and a number of interchangeable balls. Everything back there went flying everywhere. I had holes in windows from the inside out. That alone could have killed me. Your truck looks killer but I don't want it to kill you. Keep up the good work!
 
You might want to reconsider some of that gear. My 2021 Tremor replaced a 2017 Sierra Denali that I rolled 6 - 8 times at 85 mph. I had all of my trailer gear under the backseat including inserts and a number of interchangeable balls. Everything back there went flying everywhere. I had holes in windows from the inside out. That alone could have killed me. Your truck looks killer but I don't want it to kill you. Keep up the good work!
Holy smokes! Glad you're OK! And thanks for the advice!

Most of that stuff is in the toolbox under the Diamondback cover now. Still a risk they would cause the cover to open, which wouldn't be great, but better than them being in the cab with me. The only particularly heavy thing still in the back seat is the bottle jack and accessories in its bag.
 
Back on December 27th, I updated Shadowfax's AFE Bias in an attempt to correct the computer's MPG reporting. You can read up on that with the corresponding post:


I've completed 8 fill-ups since then and it seems to have worked a treat! First, here's the raw data of those 8 fill-ups:

DateMiles (lifetime)Miles (trip)GallonsMPG (Computer)MPG (Hand)
January 1, 20223115.2155.614.50911.810.72
January 1, 20223363.5248.316.68214.514.88
January 13, 20223610.7247.122.16911.011.15
January 16, 20223862.7251.919.13213.213.17
January 16, 20223892.730.02.19613.413.66
January 22, 20224162.6269.820.94112.812.88
January 29, 20224429.0266.421.00712.712.68
February 2, 20224712.5283.424.05011.911.78

Just looking at the table it's easy to see how closely the computer matches my hand calculations now. But to further emphasize it, here's a graph showing all fill-ups I've completed with the truck. The first fill-up after I adjusted the AFE Bias is annotated.

1644185946078.png


That's a significant improvement! I'll keep tracking this over time, but what all this data shows me is that computer is very consistent straight from the factory, but might be biased up or down some. Adjusting the AFE Bias allows you to correct for that bias, effectively moving the line on my graph up or down.

Of note, the first fill-up after adjusting the bias the computer was quite different than my hand calculation. I don't know what happened there, but it appears to be an anomaly. I'll keep tracking my mileage as I have been and report back if there's any more anomalies, but barring new data indicating otherwise, I'm declaring Shadowfax's computer calculated MPG accurate.

Edit: Next update:

 
Last edited:
Today was the day for Shadowfax's second oil change! This was at 4958.7 miles on the odometer, now putting me formally on the 5000 mile oil change schedule. This one was technically a 4000 mile oil change since the break-in change happened at 1000 miles.

Some notes:
  • Inspection of various things revealed nothing of particular interest. Truck is in good shape, as one would expect for just 5000 miles.
  • Stahlbus oil drain valve worked beautifully! Love that thing! No mess, no fuss. Highly recommend it.
  • Skid plate was great at catching oil from the oil filter while removing it. 🤦‍♂️ I punched a hole in the filter to try and let it drain in a clean manner, but apparently it only drained the outer portion of the filter. When I removed the filter a ton of oil still spilled out and went all over the skid plate. Next time I will try the milk jug method to hopefully make for a more clean operation.
  • Cover for the engine air filter is a pain to get back on. Pulled it off to inspect the engine air filter and getting the tabs at the bottom re-seated was nigh impossible.
Lastly, and this gets its own paragraph, is the catch can contents. Wow am I happy I have a catch can! Can't imagine this stuff coating the intake. In 4000 miles the catch can captured just shy of 1/2 cup of...stuff. It smelled like gas and, as can be seen in the photo, is milky in color. To be clear: the oil coming out of the truck was not milky in color. Only the contents of the catch can.

23F51548-0FFD-4F4B-92D2-F1B215B3043B.jpeg


0BE29B43-B177-410C-BB63-816BCAB68F7C.jpeg


Relevant install threads:
 
As a part of the oil change today, I pulled each tire off to inspect the brakes and give each tire a good inspection. While largely unnecessary at this point in the truck's life, and especially the life of the tires since they're brand new, I want to build up habits. I took the opportunity to install black lug nuts!

@BroncoHooves definitely was who pushed me over the edge for this on his build thread.

DB9C79E2-A2BB-4A4F-86C4-73ED82314EBB.jpeg

A62FF18E-F382-4CA5-B7CC-F76017EFF869.jpeg


I love the look, especially if I'm going to run with no hub caps anyways. And I don't want the hub caps just for my own convenience. Means I don't have to deal with them whenever I'm taking wheels on/off, and don't have to deal with a shop cracking or scratching them.

Interestingly, as can be seen in the picture of the front wheel, the front wheel studs are painted blue. This doesn't look like thread locker at all, but literally blue paint. I have no idea why this was done. Anyone else's studs painted?

Parts:
 
You might consider an Oil Udder. It has a magnet to help it hold onto the drain plug(not that you need that) and to stick to the oil filter. I went ahead and got the extension tube because it's suggested for the RAM 1500 with the HEMI. Because of where the filter is located on the Godzilla I doubt it'd be required.


I'll admit I haven't tried mine yet, but it looks like it'll work great. I haven't needed to change oil on anything since it came in. Probably change oil on the Hemi 1500 soon, which is a messy one so I look forward to trying it out.
 
As a part of the oil change today, I pulled each tire off to inspect the brakes and give each tire a good inspection. While largely unnecessary at this point in the truck's life, and especially the life of the tires since they're brand new, I want to build up habits. I took the opportunity to install black lug nuts!

@BroncoHooves definitely was who pushed me over the edge for this on his build thread.

View attachment 46092
View attachment 46093

I love the look, especially if I'm going to run with no hub caps anyways. And I don't want the hub caps just for my own convenience. Means I don't have to deal with them whenever I'm taking wheels on/off, and don't have to deal with a shop cracking or scratching them.

Interestingly, as can be seen in the picture of the front wheel, the front wheel studs are painted blue. This doesn't look like thread locker at all, but literally blue paint. I have no idea why this was done. Anyone else's studs painted?

Parts:
Don't forget a set of the Ford locking, black lugs. I think I showed them in my thread too.

Part: HC3Z1A043B


And yes, the hubcaps removed looks better than stock!
 
You might consider an Oil Udder. It has a magnet to help it hold onto the drain plug(not that you need that) and to stick to the oil filter. I went ahead and got the extension tube because it's suggested for the RAM 1500 with the HEMI. Because of where the filter is located on the Godzilla I doubt it'd be required.


I'll admit I haven't tried mine yet, but it looks like it'll work great. I haven't needed to change oil on anything since it came in. Probably change oil on the Hemi 1500 soon, which is a messy one so I look forward to trying it out.
For some reason I've been trying to avoid it, but really I should just get it. Will pair well with the massive funnel I have for putting the new oil into the truck. :ROFLMAO:

Don't forget a set of the Ford locking, black lugs. I think I showed them in my thread too.

Part: HC3Z1A043B


And yes, the hubcaps removed looks better than stock!
You did! I've been waffling on them. I like the security, but I've literally never had locking lug nuts before and haven't had a problem. They also seem like a pain. One more key to keep track of and you need to make sure to give it to the shop before they work on your vehicle.
 
View attachment 46092
View attachment 46093

I love the look, especially if I'm going to run with no hub caps anyways. And I don't want the hub caps just for my own convenience. Means I don't have to deal with them whenever I'm taking wheels on/off, and don't have to deal with a shop cracking or scratching them.

Interestingly, as can be seen in the picture of the front wheel, the front wheel studs are painted blue. This doesn't look like thread locker at all, but literally blue paint. I have no idea why this was done. Anyone else's studs painted?

Parts:
I gotta ask. Why run black open style lug nuts if the steel stud (not black) is still visible? Why not get a closed style black nuts for a cleaner all black look and also more protection to studs. (Not sure if these studs rust or not if exposed)
 
Yeah, mine are too. Which I think were visible in the build thread. Should go away with time.
Funky. Good to know it’s not just me.

I gotta ask. Why run black open style lug nuts if the steel stud (not black) is still visible? Why not get a closed style black nuts for a cleaner all black look and also more protection to studs. (Not sure if these studs rust or not if exposed)
It’s part of the look being able to see the stud and have it stand out a bit. Makes it more utilitarian.

Also: finding black lug nuts is nigh impossible for the OEM wheels unless you go with an Amazon special, which I wasn’t going to do. So I’m kind of stuck with what I can get. These lug nuts are take-offs from chassis cab trucks, which means they are Ford OEM so I can fully trust them.

As for rust, time will tell but I’m quite sure these are galvanized to protect from corrosion.
 
Funky. Good to know it’s not just me.


It’s part of the look being able to see the stud and have it stand out a bit. Makes it more utilitarian.

Also: finding black lug nuts is nigh impossible for the OEM wheels unless you go with an Amazon special, which I wasn’t going to do. So I’m kind of stuck with what I can get. These lug nuts are take-offs from chassis cab trucks, which means they are Ford OEM so I can fully trust them.

As for rust, time will tell but I’m quite sure these are galvanized to protect from corrosion.
I’m thinking about painting the very tip of the stud if my ocd continues to escalate. The part unaffected by torque values. Since i’ll need to touch up the rear hubs with paint eventually too. No big deal.
 
I’m thinking about painting the very tip of the stud if my ocd continues to escalate. The part unaffected by torque values. Since i’ll need to touch up the rear hubs with paint eventually too. No big deal.
Is there a way to paint them such that you won’t need to touch them up every time you take the lug nut off? Or is that something you are ok with?
 
Back
Top