What kind of axe is that?
Project Shadowfax
- OP 🔹 ccw
- Start date
- OP 🔹
- #202
Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe 19 Inch
It's one of Wrangler Star's favorites, if you know him on YouTube. He's the reason I decided to buy that one in particular.
COOL! I have a council tool 1.75# Hudson Bay Camp Axe. I looked for a link, but it appears they don't make my model anymore. I also carry a small Estwing for hammer/hatchet duties. Yeah I've seen his youtubes, he has a 7.3(Godzilla) ford also!
Lol i knew that.
Thanks for your thoughts on the cleats. I was thinking doing them myself, a slightly different pattern, maybe end up with 8-10 for a less busier look overall. Still undecided.
Did you go with crossbin 8 or 13? On the picture it looks more like 8, but i can be mistaken.
- OP 🔹
- #205
Very cool! Just read this review on it and looks like a great axe! (Assuming that’s the same model that you have.)
Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe Review
The next medium size axe I want to review is the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe (manufacturer’s code 175HB28). It has proven to be an exce...
woodtrekker.blogspot.com
- OP 🔹
- #206
Ah gotcha. Fair enough on the less busy look. I like the many tie down points lol.
If I were to drop down the number, I would keep the front and rear ones roughly where they are, then have a cleat in the center of the side of each panel.
I have the 13, and loading it up I’m very happy I went with it. There’s some stuff that I have in there I’m almost sure wouldn’t have fit if it was 5” shallower.
Yep that's the one! I really like it, the price was right and made in USA, what more can you ask for.Very cool! Just read this review on it and looks like a great axe! (Assuming that’s the same model that you have.)
Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe Review
The next medium size axe I want to review is the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe (manufacturer’s code 175HB28). It has proven to be an exce...
- OP 🔹
- #208
Absolutely! Seems like it was $50? That’s a great price! And agreed on it being great it’s US made!
For those of you that value a great axe that's American made, take a look at the Best Made brand marketed through Duluth Trading Co. They are traditional designs made of high grade materials in New York State.
Best Made Hudson Bay Axe | Duluth Trading Company
Available in a limited-edition design, this essential tool features a drop-forged, American-made, alloy steel, slim profile head. Clear brush, limbs, and make kindling with ease.
www.duluthtrading.com
Best Made American Felling Axe | Duluth Trading Company
American Felling Axe designed in New York City by Best Made Co. The axe has a 4-lb. Dayton pattern head, drop-forged in USA, and American-made 5160 alloy steel.
www.duluthtrading.com
@ccw learning from your blunder, what would you have done differently on NoCo? Go on driver side or other? I am leaning towards the OEM plate holder, for symmetry purposes, can not tell how low it hangs though, but seems like most guys are opting alternativesView attachment 37941Picked up the front license plate bracket from Swarfworks that clamps onto a tow hook so I can have a front license plate as required in WA.
In summary: this thing is beefy. Built like an aluminum tank. While I appreciate the build quality, it’s a bit of a pain to install. You need to tighten up two nuts/bolts in the middle of the tow hook and there’s not a lot of space in there. Make sure you have some ratcheting wrenches if you’re installing this, as my sockets couldn’t fit height-wise.
Additionally, the bolts that hold the license plate itself have an Allen key head, which is baffling. I suppose it’s a minor security bump, but bit of a pain rather than using a Phillips or hex head like every factory license plate in existence. Good likelihood these will be replaced in the future.
Keen observers may have noticed a blunder on my part in the above picture: this holder perfectly blocks the Noco block heater outlet I installed last weekend.
I can’t move the license plate holder to the drivers side without blocking the adaptive cruise control, so guess the Noco will be stylistic for now. Thankfully I don’t really need access to the block heater on any kind of remotely regular basis. Just if I travel somewhere cold enough.
Parts:
- Swarfworks front license plate holder: https://swarfworks.com/f250-f350-and-tremor-front-license-plate-relocation-bracket/
- OP 🔹
- #212
While I didn't explicitly look at the drivers side for the possibility of putting the Noco there, my current understanding is the adaptive cruise control module is on that side. That means I wouldn't change anything with the Noco if my understanding is correct.
In hindsight I would have done something different for the front license plate. Don't know what, mind you, but something that doesn't block the Noco.
Worth noting: over the holidays the temps dropped down below 0F so I used the block heater! It was tight, but was indeed able to plug into the Noco behind the license plate; however, this may not work with every extension cord. Given how frequently I expect to use the block heater (almost never) fixing this is pretty low on my priority list right now. Therefore so is figuring out an alternative, which is why I can't give a great answer to your question.
- OP 🔹
- #213
YouTuber:
Pretty cool guy. Spent a while building an off-grid homestead, documenting lots of things on YouTube. Has since moved onto more of a farm that isn't off-grid. Very good with his hands. Also a volunteer forest fire fighter.
$275 for an axe? Holy Moly! Does it swing itself?
And, yes, I was splitting wood on the farm in far northern Wisconsin by 8 yo so I have some familiarity with them.
And, yes, I was splitting wood on the farm in far northern Wisconsin by 8 yo so I have some familiarity with them.
- OP 🔹
- #215
Lol! Since it has a good blade it comes pretty close!$275 for an axe? Holy Moly! Does it swing itself?
And, yes, I was splitting wood on the farm in far northern Wisconsin by 8 yo so I have some familiarity with them.
- OP 🔹
- #216
More gear organization in Shadowfax tonight. Goals were two-fold:
Next was the first aid kit and road flares. I wanted these more accessible, but none of the door pockets are big enough to put them there. To solve this I purchased a cheap seat-back molle panel off Amazon and some Velcro straps:
The result:
I put the molle panel on the passenger seat. This way the road flares and first aid kit are easily accessed from the passenger side of the truck, which is most likely the shoulder side when I’m on the side of the road. The first aid kit is towards the center so that it’s also accessible directly from the drivers seat. I simply need to undo one buckle, then rip it off.
The molle panel itself is pretty decent quality for $20. Unfortunately the bottle holder pockets are too small to hold a standard 1L bottle of water. To strap it down, going around the headrest posts was easy for the top. The challenge was the bottom.
The naive solution is to go around the front of the seat. That straps it down well, but leaves the strap visible which looks janky. Additionally, the buckle would be right were people sit. Not uncomfortable when I sat on it, but I could still feel it through my jeans.
Instead I strapped around the bottom of the seat back. At the bottom there’s a flap of fabric probably 3-4 inches tall running the width of the seat. This flap is held down by elastic bands that hook under the seat. I put the molle panel’s strap behind that flap and cinched it up so it’s pulling a bit where the flap joins the rest of the seat. Keeps that strap totally hidden, doesn’t interfere with whoever is sitting in the front seat, and holds the panel down well.
As for the rear seat organization itself, I’m feeling pretty good about what stuff is under there but I want to continue messing with the layout. I suspect I’ll move the jack (the red bag) all the way to the passenger side instead of the center. That way I’m not splitting the empty space and it’s easier to lift out (it’s not light!).
(Yes, my first aid kit is currently in a black pouch. It was my first attempt at a first aid kit and I have some regrets. I’m planning on purchasing/building out a new kit and it will be in a red pouch with appropriate first aid patches on it to readily identify it.)
- Make the first aid kit and LED road flares more accessible. Previously they’ve been under the rear seat, which means they’re inaccessible if the rear seat has anyone or anything on it. Also takes an extra step of raising the seat to get to them.
- Free up space under the rear seat. Thus far under the rear seat has been stuffed, leaving me with pretty limited additional storage space for non-daily driving needs.
Next was the first aid kit and road flares. I wanted these more accessible, but none of the door pockets are big enough to put them there. To solve this I purchased a cheap seat-back molle panel off Amazon and some Velcro straps:
The result:
I put the molle panel on the passenger seat. This way the road flares and first aid kit are easily accessed from the passenger side of the truck, which is most likely the shoulder side when I’m on the side of the road. The first aid kit is towards the center so that it’s also accessible directly from the drivers seat. I simply need to undo one buckle, then rip it off.
The molle panel itself is pretty decent quality for $20. Unfortunately the bottle holder pockets are too small to hold a standard 1L bottle of water. To strap it down, going around the headrest posts was easy for the top. The challenge was the bottom.
The naive solution is to go around the front of the seat. That straps it down well, but leaves the strap visible which looks janky. Additionally, the buckle would be right were people sit. Not uncomfortable when I sat on it, but I could still feel it through my jeans.
Instead I strapped around the bottom of the seat back. At the bottom there’s a flap of fabric probably 3-4 inches tall running the width of the seat. This flap is held down by elastic bands that hook under the seat. I put the molle panel’s strap behind that flap and cinched it up so it’s pulling a bit where the flap joins the rest of the seat. Keeps that strap totally hidden, doesn’t interfere with whoever is sitting in the front seat, and holds the panel down well.
As for the rear seat organization itself, I’m feeling pretty good about what stuff is under there but I want to continue messing with the layout. I suspect I’ll move the jack (the red bag) all the way to the passenger side instead of the center. That way I’m not splitting the empty space and it’s easier to lift out (it’s not light!).
(Yes, my first aid kit is currently in a black pouch. It was my first attempt at a first aid kit and I have some regrets. I’m planning on purchasing/building out a new kit and it will be in a red pouch with appropriate first aid patches on it to readily identify it.)
- OP 🔹
- #217
Shadowfax has new shoes! 285/75R18 (stock size) Toyo Open Country AT3.
Honestly think I prefer the look of the DuraTracs by a bit, but in case you haven’t been following along, I needed the 3PMS. Discount Tire did the install and were great. Also got the certificates so if I damage a tire they will replace it.
This swap also made use of the extra wheel I got for the spare. Next tire rotation will be a 5 tire rotation. I got them to leave off the hub caps as I think I’ll prefer that look, and have the black lug nuts arriving tomorrow.
This was also the first time I’ve loaded up the bed since I got the Diamondback installed. Worked great! Decided to flop the rear panel fully open. Was able to fit 2 tires laying down under the rest of the cover and then 3 at the rear of the bed. Took a couple of seconds to disconnect the struts and flop the panel open.
The cleats worked great to strap the panel down, and the part I really loved: I could use the other cleats to tie off the excess strap!! No strap flapping in the breeze!
Edit: Follow-up post with initial driving impressions:
www.fordtremor.com
Edit: more thoughts on the tires can be found in this post:
www.fordtremor.com
Parts:
Honestly think I prefer the look of the DuraTracs by a bit, but in case you haven’t been following along, I needed the 3PMS. Discount Tire did the install and were great. Also got the certificates so if I damage a tire they will replace it.
This swap also made use of the extra wheel I got for the spare. Next tire rotation will be a 5 tire rotation. I got them to leave off the hub caps as I think I’ll prefer that look, and have the black lug nuts arriving tomorrow.
This was also the first time I’ve loaded up the bed since I got the Diamondback installed. Worked great! Decided to flop the rear panel fully open. Was able to fit 2 tires laying down under the rest of the cover and then 3 at the rear of the bed. Took a couple of seconds to disconnect the struts and flop the panel open.
The cleats worked great to strap the panel down, and the part I really loved: I could use the other cleats to tie off the excess strap!! No strap flapping in the breeze!
Edit: Follow-up post with initial driving impressions:
Project Shadowfax
@Vermonster, check out this thread: Hidden front hitch receiver. This guy went with a Neutrik PowerCon connector that is about half as wide as the NoCo plug. It is a special plug but you can pick them up off of Amazon for $10 - $15, so they're easy to come by. Might make your relocation easier...
www.fordtremor.com
Edit: more thoughts on the tires can be found in this post:
Project Shadowfax
Funky. Good to know it’s not just me. It’s part of the look being able to see the stud and have it stand out a bit. Makes it more utilitarian. Also: finding black lug nuts is nigh impossible for the OEM wheels unless you go with an Amazon special, which I wasn’t going to do. So I’m kind of...
www.fordtremor.com
Parts:
- Toyo Open Country AT3: https://www.toyotires.com/product/open-country-at3/
Last edited:
- Staff 🛡️
- #218
- Jan 23, 2021
- 6,305
- 17,941
- 2022 Iconic Silver F-350 6.7 Tremor Lariat
- Some BMWs & a Ducati 748 Mono
Man. I am in this same boat as you know. I am almost wondering if I can adapt something below the truck. I hope to crawl around under there in the next few days when things warm up. It's suppose to be 50 degrees warmer this week than last. That makes a difference. lolWhile I didn't explicitly look at the drivers side for the possibility of putting the Noco there, my current understanding is the adaptive cruise control module is on that side. That means I wouldn't change anything with the Noco if my understanding is correct.
In hindsight I would have done something different for the front license plate. Don't know what, mind you, but something that doesn't block the Noco.
Worth noting: over the holidays the temps dropped down below 0F so I used the block heater! It was tight, but was indeed able to plug into the Noco behind the license plate; however, this may not work with every extension cord. Given how frequently I expect to use the block heater (almost never) fixing this is pretty low on my priority list right now. Therefore so is figuring out an alternative, which is why I can't give a great answer to your question.
@Vermonster, check out this thread: Hidden front hitch receiver. This guy went with a Neutrik PowerCon connector that is about half as wide as the NoCo plug. It is a special plug but you can pick them up off of Amazon for $10 - $15, so they're easy to come by. Might make your relocation easier or at least give you another option based on size. Good luck!
Lots of interesting information, thanks. Good to know that you can easily take diamondback panel off when required. Did you put any padding in between panels, i figure the two locks can touch and scratch the surface of the opposite panels.Shadowfax has new shoes! 285/75R18 (stock size) Toyo Open Country AT3.
View attachment 45448View attachment 45450View attachment 45451
Honestly think I prefer the look of the DuraTracs by a bit, but in case you haven’t been following along, I needed the 3PMS. Discount Tire did the install and were great. Also got the certificates so if I damage a tire they will replace it.
This swap also made use of the extra wheel I got for the spare. Next tire rotation will be a 5 tire rotation. I got them to leave off the hub caps as I think I’ll prefer that look, and have the black lug nuts arriving tomorrow.
This was also the first time I’ve loaded up the bed since I got the Diamondback installed. Worked great! Decided to flop the rear panel fully open. Was able to fit 2 tires laying down under the rest of the cover and then 3 at the rear of the bed. Took a couple of seconds to disconnect the struts and flop the panel open.
The cleats worked great to strap the panel down, and the part I really loved: I could use the other cleats to tie off the excess strap!! No strap flapping in the breeze!
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