Project Shadowfax

[ccw]

Recently @BroncoHooves got fully wormed into my head and I picked up some of the Ford black locking lug nuts. Contributing factor is a built up stash of Ford Pass Points I wanted to spend. Super easy install, as expected, and they fit in great with the fully exposed look!

Again, this is nothing new if you’ve been following BroncoHooves.

Something to note about the part: the picture on Ford Parts is inaccurate. It shows the bare zinc coating, but they are indeed black. Had the parts guy at my dealership confused.

Parts:

• Locking wheel nuts: https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/wheel-locks-zinc-plated-for-hidden-lugs-6439189-1

 

[TJ Carr]

Recently @BroncoHooves got fully wormed into my head and I picked up some of the Ford black locking lug nuts. Contributing factor is a built up stash of Ford Pass Points I wanted to spend. Super easy install, as expected, and they fit in great with the fully exposed look!

Again, this is nothing new if you’ve been following BroncoHooves.

View attachment 48947

Something to note about the part: the picture on Ford Parts is inaccurate. It shows the bare zinc coating, but they are indeed black. Had the parts guy at my dealership confused.

Parts:

• Locking wheel nuts: https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/wheel-locks-zinc-plated-for-hidden-lugs-6439189-1

Tore up you wheels it appears, how did ya do that??

 

[ccw]

Tore up you wheels it appears, how did ya do that??

Had me spooked and out there in the dark with a wet rag wiping off my wheels!

That picture looks terrible (and honestly didn't look great in person either), but it's just a bizarre dust pattern on the wheel. Wiped off easily with a wet rag. No idea what caused it, though.

 

[ccw]

Update: Diamondback sent me a revised Crossbin 13. Update post here:

Project Shadowfax

I am probably not often enough underneath my truck yet - is that a factory skid plate you are talking about or after-market? Aftermarket! You can check out my install post on it here: https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/project-shadowfax.6005/post-143901 Worth noting that if I were to buy a...

www.fordtremor.com

Well, some unfortunate bad news with the Diamondback cover - or more specifically their Crossbin 13 toolbox, the cover itself has been fantastic.

Twice now I've had one end of the Crossbin 13 fall into the bed of the truck. To understand why, let's take a look at how the bin is designed:

In this picture you can see how the box itself is strong with its boxed shape. The drop-down section adds to that strength. The weak part is the "arms", for lack of a better word, that extend up to hook over the bed rails.

Those "arms" are entirely unsupported. This means any lateral forces just need to bend sheet aluminum, which isn't terribly difficult. If the aluminum bends far enough, the right-angle lips will no longer hold onto the bed rail and that side will drop down. This is exacerbated by weight in the toolbox.

I reached out to Diamondback support and learned the Crossbin 13 has a weight rating of 150 pounds. As far as I could find, and support didn't correct me, this is unpublished. It is not on the instructions nor the web page for the Crossbin 13. While I don't have an exact weight, I suspect I was loading it with 200-300 pounds of weight initially. After the first drop I took my tire chains out which reduced that weight by 100 pounds; however, the aluminum was also weakened from the first fall.

In their instructions, Diamondback does call out adding sheet metal screws to secure the bin to the bed rails if driving over rough roads. I opted not to do this as I wanted the toolbox more easily removable and, for now, I've been driving almost exclusively on pavement.

I suggested two things to support, which he will be forwarding on:

1. Publish the weight rating. Hopefully this should happen quickly.
2. Add gusseting to the vertical "arms" to prevent them from folding inwards. Since this is a design change I don't expect it to happen quickly, but hopefully it's adopted with the next design revision.

As for myself, I'm considering a few options:

1. Reducing the weight in the bin. This is unfortunate as the whole reason I got the bin was to hold things, but this will require me to have some heavier things loose in the bed.
2. Putting screws or bolts through the "arms" into the bed rails.
3. Finding a fabricator who can add gussets to the "arms" and strengthen them.

 

[Alpoba]

Well, some unfortunate bad news with the Diamondback cover - or more specifically their Crossbin 13 toolbox, the cover itself has been fantastic.

Twice now I've had one end of the Crossbin 13 fall into the bed of the truck. To understand why, let's take a look at how the bin is designed:

View attachment 50703

Extremely helpful post ccw - thanks! Will be monitoring your personal fix for this issue.

Im installing my hd in a few weeks together with crossbin 13. Its good to know the upper weight limit not to run into the issue you had. @StrikezoneNJ

 

[KirboC]

Well, some unfortunate bad news with the Diamondback cover - or more specifically their Crossbin 13 toolbox, the cover itself has been fantastic.

Twice now I've had one end of the Crossbin 13 fall into the bed of the truck. To understand why, let's take a look at how the bin is designed:

View attachment 50703

In this picture you can see how the box itself is strong with its boxed shape. The drop-down section adds to that strength. The weak part is the "arms", for lack of a better word, that extend up to hook over the bed rails.

Those "arms" are entirely unsupported. This means any lateral forces just need to bend sheet aluminum, which isn't terribly difficult. If the aluminum bends far enough, the right-angle lips will no longer hold onto the bed rail and that side will drop down. This is exacerbated by weight in the toolbox.

I reached out to Diamondback support and learned the Crossbin 13 has a weight rating of 150 pounds. As far as I could find, and support didn't correct me, this is unpublished. It is not on the instructions nor the web page for the Crossbin 13. While I don't have an exact weight, I suspect I was loading it with 200-300 pounds of weight initially. After the first drop I took my tire chains out which reduced that weight by 100 pounds; however, the aluminum was also weakened from the first fall.

In their instructions, Diamondback does call out adding sheet metal screws to secure the bin to the bed rails if driving over rough roads. I opted not to do this as I wanted the toolbox more easily removable and, for now, I've been driving almost exclusively on pavement.

I suggested two things to support, which he will be forwarding on:

1. Publish the weight rating. Hopefully this should happen quickly.
2. Add gusseting to the vertical "arms" to prevent them from folding inwards. Since this is a design change I don't expect it to happen quickly, but hopefully it's adopted with the next design revision.

As for myself, I'm considering a few options:

1. Reducing the weight in the bin. This is unfortunate as the whole reason I got the bin was to hold things, but this will require me to have some heavier things loose in the bed.
2. Putting screws or bolts through the "arms" into the bed rails.
3. Finding a fabricator who can add gussets to the "arms" and strengthen them.

Thanks for sharing this info. I hadn’t gotten my bin fully loaded yet and was wondering if this would be an issue in the back of my mind. I’m probably going to drill a couple holes for bolts to take the weight. Debating whether to put the ARB compressor inside the bin or not which would require it to be a more permanent fixture…

 

[Modman]

Well, some unfortunate bad news with the Diamondback cover - or more specifically their Crossbin 13 toolbox, the cover itself has been fantastic.

Twice now I've had one end of the Crossbin 13 fall into the bed of the truck. To understand why, let's take a look at how the bin is designed:

View attachment 50703

In this picture you can see how the box itself is strong with its boxed shape. The drop-down section adds to that strength. The weak part is the "arms", for lack of a better word, that extend up to hook over the bed rails.

Those "arms" are entirely unsupported. This means any lateral forces just need to bend sheet aluminum, which isn't terribly difficult. If the aluminum bends far enough, the right-angle lips will no longer hold onto the bed rail and that side will drop down. This is exacerbated by weight in the toolbox.

I reached out to Diamondback support and learned the Crossbin 13 has a weight rating of 150 pounds. As far as I could find, and support didn't correct me, this is unpublished. It is not on the instructions nor the web page for the Crossbin 13. While I don't have an exact weight, I suspect I was loading it with 200-300 pounds of weight initially. After the first drop I took my tire chains out which reduced that weight by 100 pounds; however, the aluminum was also weakened from the first fall.

In their instructions, Diamondback does call out adding sheet metal screws to secure the bin to the bed rails if driving over rough roads. I opted not to do this as I wanted the toolbox more easily removable and, for now, I've been driving almost exclusively on pavement.

I suggested two things to support, which he will be forwarding on:

1. Publish the weight rating. Hopefully this should happen quickly.
2. Add gusseting to the vertical "arms" to prevent them from folding inwards. Since this is a design change I don't expect it to happen quickly, but hopefully it's adopted with the next design revision.

As for myself, I'm considering a few options:

1. Reducing the weight in the bin. This is unfortunate as the whole reason I got the bin was to hold things, but this will require me to have some heavier things loose in the bed.
2. Putting screws or bolts through the "arms" into the bed rails.
3. Finding a fabricator who can add gussets to the "arms" and strengthen them.

Not a real elegant solution but, prior to having the "arms" strengthened, you could add some form of support to the bottom of the box on each side extending down to the bed floor. If you are considering adding screws I would rather do this than into the bed rails. Cut down a hunk of 2x10 or 2x12 and add a few screws through the box end vertically into the board to keep it in place. You will not be weight limited, can still remove the box easily if needed, and can remove the supports once you have a gusset added. Although you would have to cover/epoxy the screw holes if that is an issue for you long term:

 

[Modman]

Now that I have thought about it for 5 more seconds... just pickup some aluminum bar stock, cut it to length, drill and tap the end and use a bolt to fasten to each corner. You can add a rubber pad at the opposite end so it doesn't dig up your bedliner:

 

[Alpoba]

Now that I have thought about it for 5 more seconds... just pickup some aluminum bar stock, cut it to length, drill and tap the end and use a bolt to fasten to each corner. You can add a rubber pad at the opposite end so it doesn't dig up your bedliner:

View attachment 50709

The quick and dirty solution might be cutting some 4x4s to length and placing them under the the box on 4 sides at lowest point - this box will not bend. I personally might not load the box with heavy stuff, but if i did, id go that route likely.

 

[BroncOh]

Instead of adding gusset(s), you can add a secondary piece of aluminum angle behind the original folded over portion (full length) and pop rivet it in place.

Easy, DIY, and cheap.

 

[Modman]

The quick and dirty solution might be cutting some 4x4s to length and placing them under the the box on 4 sides at lowest point - this box will not bend. I personally might not load the box with heavy stuff, but if i did, id go that route likely.

That definitely would work... I was thinking he may still want room for 4x8 sheets of whatever under the box.

 

[BroncOh]

@ccw Are you going to add the aluminum angle backer piece

 

[ccw]

Not a real elegant solution but, prior to having the "arms" strengthened, you could add some form of support to the bottom of the box on each side extending down to the bed floor. If you are considering adding screws I would rather do this than into the bed rails. Cut down a hunk of 2x10 or 2x12 and add a few screws through the box end vertically into the board to keep it in place. You will not be weight limited, can still remove the box easily if needed, and can remove the supports once you have a gusset added. Although you would have to cover/epoxy the screw holes if that is an issue for you long term:

View attachment 50706

Now that I have thought about it for 5 more seconds... just pickup some aluminum bar stock, cut it to length, drill and tap the end and use a bolt to fasten to each corner. You can add a rubber pad at the opposite end so it doesn't dig up your bedliner:

View attachment 50709

The quick and dirty solution might be cutting some 4x4s to length and placing them under the the box on 4 sides at lowest point - this box will not bend. I personally might not load the box with heavy stuff, but if i did, id go that route likely.

That definitely would work... I was thinking he may still want room for 4x8 sheets of whatever under the box.

Appreciate the ideas for supporting it from the bottom! Definitely could be quick workaround.

Modman is correct that ideally I would want the ability to slide stuff under the bin. Be it skis or sheet goods, I wouldn't want to be worrying about knocking out the added supports.

 

[ccw]

Instead of adding gusset(s), you can add a secondary piece of aluminum angle behind the original folded over portion (full length) and pop rivet it in place.

Easy, DIY, and cheap.

@ccw Are you going to add the aluminum angle backer piece

This is an interesting idea! And has me generally thinking about how I could DIY it. Can you clarify where exactly you're referring to adding the aluminum angle?

 

[BroncOh]

This is an interesting idea! And has me generally thinking about how I could DIY it. Can you clarify where exactly you're referring to adding the aluminum angle?

Something like this on the backside. Red dots as rivets. The pink shape represents the aluminum angle. I did not fill the top piece in pink for contextual isometric purpose.

 

[Modman]

I do not know enough about the interface with the bedrail and the cover itself, but I think @BroncoHooves was referring to something like this extending the full length of the "lip." You could apply this technique either on the inside or the outside of the bend depending on where you have available clearance.

 

[BroncOh]

I do not know enough about the interface with the bedrail and the cover itself, but I think @BroncoHooves was referring to something like this extending the full length of the "lip." You could apply this technique either on the inside or the outside of the bend depending on where you have available clearance.

View attachment 50753View attachment 50754

Yep, see my image above your post

 

[Modman]

Oops... sorry @BroncoHooves didn't see you already posted!

 

[BroncOh]

Oops... sorry @BroncoHooves didn't see you already posted!

Two posts are better than one! Just like two rivets are better than one

 

[ccw]

Something like this on the backside. Red dots as rivets. The pink shape represents the aluminum angle. I did not fill the top piece in pink for contextual isometric purpose.

Ah I see what you mean! Unfortunately that wouldn't help. My description of the problem probably could have been better.

It isn't that the right angle, hooking over top of the bed rails, is straightening out. The issue is that the vertical sheet metal is bending back, towards the inside of the bed.