OmahaBravo's Build Thread

dude that thing is awesome! Thanks for sharing!
 
Looks awesome... Does this mean the wife is getting used to the truck's ride or are you camping solo?
Camping solo for now. Hoping to build it out to get her to tag along on some adventures.
Gonna have to figure out how to make my shed opening taller. Once i put a suspension kit and taller tires, airing down aint gonna cut it.
 
Some more photos from the adv home

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... time to get back to the real world 😒
 
Is that like a GFC? Looks great more pictures please!
It’s a more refined GFC in my opinion. GFC just released their GFX Pro Max last week, that is more of a direct competitor to the Lone Peak. The LP is still a good bit easier to stomach the cost, and both are USA built. GFC in Montana, and LP in Wenatchee WA. I’ve had a LP for 2 years now, and still love it.
 
i ended up with the V2 at the V1 price.
So i got the better looking handles and the t-rails on the doors. Also got the chase lights which are cleanly built in.
I wish the rear window was glass but im going to look at putting film on it to keep it from gettin too scratched.

Just need to figure out my build out now!
 
i ended up with the V2 at the V1 price.
So i got the better looking handles and the t-rails on the doors. Also got the chase lights which are cleanly built in.
I wish the rear window was glass but im going to look at putting film on it to keep it from gettin too scratched.

Just need to figure out my build out now!
I’m jealous of that V2 for sure. Definitely going to check it out at Big Bend. However the plexi rear window hansnt been an issue for me. I don’t wipe it down dirty though. Hit it with a pressure hose first, then wipe it down. A rag full of dirt will scratch it up fast.
 
I didn’t even know about LP, or that they were made in Wenatchee! That’s awesome! I’ve noticed a lot more people running them now that I know. I thought they were all different models of GFCs.
 
Dropped the trans pan to change fluid and filter.
Got the fluid and filter from RA. Filter (FT221) was $52.79. Picked up 2 gallon jugs (XT125QULV - $30.79/ea) and 2 quarts (XT12QULV - $6.36/ea).
$150.xx to the house.

My fluid was dark. Im at 68k miles and am not sure if this had been done before.

I added 8qts as Helm manual says to do that (6qt for draining + 2 qt for dropping the pan and changing filter).
After getting up to temp, pulling the fill plug yielded fluid coming out... quite a bit actually and it was fairly dark. I know the TC holds quite a bit of fluid.

Plan is to install an aftermarket pan to get the drain plug once I get back from my trips so i can do more frequent fluid changes.

For those wondering, i used an old amsoil hand pump. Attached nicely to the gallon containers and it wasnt that bad to use. Its also easier to take apart and clean before putting it back on the shelf.

Tools needed:
8mm socket (trans pan bolts)
10mm socket (heat shield bolts & filter bolts)
13mm deep socket (trans pan studs)
13mm wrench (for that one trans pan stud thats behind the exhaust crossover)
10mm hex (trans fill plug)
Appropriate extensions
Pulled the trigger on the PPE pan. Pan should arrive in the next 1.5 weeks. Not a huge fan of it holding +5 qts over stock but the fill port sold me over the AFE.
It uses the OEM gasket (p/n PC3Z-7F396-A). Picked one up from Levittown Ford for $60.

For tranny fluid... good ole motorcraft. I used roughly 8qts last time when i dropped the pan and filter (some spilled out when getting the level correct). Wont be changing out the filter this time so should only need the recommended 6qts + 5qts for the larger pan. I have 3-4qts on hand so two jugs it is.
$65.xx shipped from RA

FYI - Helm manual states capacity of gasser tranny is 18.2 qts. I put probably 7 qts of fresh fluid when i did the above drain-n-fill. This means that over 11qts of old fluid is still in the system.
Based on that, my system has 61% old fluid, 39% new fluid.
When i drop the pan again (not touching the filter) I'll still have 7.5 qts of old fluid in the system.
But b/c the pan is +5qts over stock my fluid will end up being ~68% new.
 
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Got the fluid and filter from RA. Filter (FT221) was $52.79. Picked up 2 gallon jugs (XT125QULV - $30.79/ea)
Just realized that the 5qt jugs of Motorcraft went down nearly $5 from when i purchased it back in January of this year.
I'll take it.
 
PREFACE: no. i have no friekin clue how this could have come undone.

so my lumbar decided to quit working. Opened it up to figure out what i needed to order so i could get it fixed before Big Bend. Mind you, before even thinking about taking the seat out I pushed the button both ways and SWORE i didnt hear a thing.

I open her up and find its not connected AND the motor still works.

Here's what i found.
Removed seat, undid the things you have to undo and bingo-bango...
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Here's one of many ways it SHOULDNT look like.
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There's where she goes
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And that is what it should look like when properly connected
FYI - it looks like the cable is against the foam. Its not, there is a cutout to allow it to clear.

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*** I assume all of the above is correct. I honestly have no clue how it should go but it looks like the opposite side, it fit, and I couldnt find a better place for it to connect.

This was not bad (~45 min not knowing what i was doing). Having a small flat head to run the zippers was SUPER helpful.
 
Started this last night after fixing the lumbar but finished it tonight. Not sure where he's been (hoping he's okay) but shoutout to @BroncOh for providing the p/n's and the idea. I did reach out to The Seat Shop but they said they were OOS on our seat foam (they were more pricey too)

Prices went up a bit from the linked post. $293.xx to the house for everything.

Seat is much more firm though and the side, which was horrible on my truck due to PO using it as a work truck (sliding in/out), is firm as well.
As Broncoh stated, get the seat heater. It was $30-40 but the old one's adhesive wont last and you'll need it to keep it in place as you work to put the new seat cover on the new foam.

The old foam was crumbling a decent bit when i was taking the old seat off. I'm glad i replaced everything. This will make the 12 hour ride to/from Big Bend much more enjoyable.

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@ccradier tagging you as i think it was you who was interested.

Well, I finished installing my Ecoflow DCDC charger. I choose to pass the wires through the floor under where the stock inverter sits.
I utilized a gland seal device to get the +/- wires and my GMRS antenna cable inside the cab.

It was a little booger getting everything lined up but just took some time. Had to wind the cable up inside as i had about 3-4' excess.
I ran it down the pass frame rail and zip-tied to the existing wiring I have there (air compressor power and switch wire). There was nothing there to begin with so I used these magnets to give me a place to secure to. They have been through the ringer and have held strong. Since i tripled the amount of wires on them, i decided to add little magnets in between mainly b/c i had them leftover after using those little guys to hold my antenna cable as it crossed from the driver to pass side.

The gland seal i used (black 1.08" version) came with sheet metal screws. Ya, not happening. I used M4 screws and nylock nuts. 12mm was the perfect length to engage the nylock fully without having too much excess.
I also put some black rtv between everything to ensure it sealed up well.

Getting the inverter back in its spot took a bit of force but it worked out. It was mainly that dumb plastic arm that i had to push into place.

I havent determined how i want to build out the interior. Thats why you see the plywood/2x4s. I cut a piece of plywood to fit the floor and then rigged up 2x4s to allow me to secure the whole thing using those two holes on the front of the 60% bench legs.
Its worked so far so... i'm good for Big Bend!


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Looks awesome man! Very inspiring!! I have seen a rectangular seal, and it peaked my interest. What about mounting it in the spot where the jack goes or on the floor in that area. I am also looking at building/buying a rack to mount the power units there. I think I would like to keep the seat there and have the platform removable for when I don't need it.
 
Very nice! Thanks for posting the details. I'm taking a slightly more budget approach and just hard wiring in the car adapter plug that came with Anker C1000 unit, so much lower amperage. I was doing the same preliminary fitting up today for a rear platform. Looks like we're both just doing the 40% seat removal. Most of the surfaces are not quite level because of the other seat brackets, so that's going to make things interesting. Please keep posting as you continue the build.

Don

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What about mounting it in the spot where the jack goes or on the floor in that area.
That was the VERY first place i looked. Its two pieces/sandwiched. If you remove one of the jack mount bolts, you wont see light/the ground. I didnt feel comfortable popping a hole not knowing how many more layers of metal I was going to need to go through.

Dont get me wrong, i'll flexseal tape an open hole and not worry one darn bit about it but I try to avoid it.

There is a grommeted hole in the rear corner on that same level. I looked at running my antenna wire there first but when i realized i had enough room i decided not to bother that grommet. Keep potential leaky spots to a minimum.
 
I am also looking at building/buying a rack to mount the power units there. I think I would like to keep the seat there and have the platform removable for when I don't need it.
I bought the Builtright panel to get me through Big Bend/whatever trips i take until i can complete my build out.

I'm going to end up getting rid of it and making my own panel. Its a good panel but its specifically designed to fit WITH the seat so its small. Much smaller than i thought it be (granted i did know where it fit so i should have known better).
Anyway, b/c the DCDC charger plugs are so bulky i had to clock the device 90deg so the plugs come in from the drivers side. This effectively took up ALL the room on the panel forcing me to find another place to mount my Midland radio. Ended up popping another hole in the radio bracket, removing the handle on one side of my fridge and mounting the radio where the fridge handle was.
Its semi temporary but its going to work out well for now. It was in my center console so i didnt get the benefit of its speaker.
 
Very nice! Thanks for posting the details. I'm taking a slightly more budget approach and just hard wiring in the car adapter plug that came with Anker C1000 unit, so much lower amperage. I was doing the same preliminary fitting up today for a rear platform. Looks like we're both just doing the 40% seat removal. Most of the surfaces are not quite level because of the other seat brackets, so that's going to make things interesting. Please keep posting as you continue the build.

Don

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On my trip back from Washington, i used the cig outlet charger. However, it only charges at 100w. Between my fridge and the Starlink, I was barely charging on the days where I was offroad and running my starlink more.
I plan on the EF being my onboard power source for everything in the camper so i need a higher wattage charging source. Cool part is I can throttle the charging wattage on the app.

The multilevel rear does mess with things when you want to have a flat surface. I'd really like my fridge front/rear but to accommodate the front seat, i'd have ot go up with it b/c of those levels. It's already at my neck. Going higher means i'd tip-toe just to look inside and thats at stock height. I still wanna put a level lift and tires on it!
 

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