Thanks! Just got a SL for Xmas. Will see if i can fit this on my Builtrite
OmahaBravo's Build Thread
- OP 🔹 OmahaBravo
- Start date
- OP 🔹
- #142
Just a heads up... ran into town in the pickup. Coming back, just on the gravel road it vibrated pretty good. Not sure if its the adapter that goes directly onto the SL or if its my center cubby/mount or both.
I'm going to run it in AR and see how it holds up, etc but i might look at getting to that roof rack quicker than expected just to get this solved for good.
I'm going to see how this works first and then may attempt to design a mount that replaces the center speaker cover but uses the white clip mounting placement for it. I'll be unhooking it with the eventual amp replacement so it won't be useful.
- OP 🔹
- #144
Uline delivered... we'll see how this pans out.Just want to give a shout out and huge thanksto @Godzilla/Tremornator for letting me know about his experience with NarrowTrax. Got to chat with him about it on the phone tonight AND learn a little bit more about his recent excursions.
I'm buying you lunch next time we meet up. Saved me some coin on that narrowtrax stuff.
Now, regarding a solution that works... I'm looking at this film. Its 24" x 200', 4mil. $110 but it could likely do 3-4 trucks lol
I have a biz account with ULINE so I am having them send me samples of the 2.5mil and 4mil. I'll do an adhesion test as well as a paint test and let you know my thoughts. Arrives on monday.
Its a heckuva lot cheaper than TrackArmor or Xpels Tracwrap.
For those scratching their heads... the idea is to find some cheap way to protect the paint without going PPF/temp PPF. Something you apply just before a trip and remove shortly after.
This is carpet protection tape
I cant take credit. @Godzilla/Tremornator is the one who thought it up. Aint stupid if it works.
It adheres exceptionaly well when the edges are applied cleanly. 4mil is pretty darn stout. Only question is will it affect the paint after a few days.
Time to test in PROD.
@Godzilla/Tremornator
wonder if you could apply it with soapy water after a fresh hand cleaning like window tint
- OP 🔹
- #147
Whats your thinking behind going that route? It already has and adhesive backing. Are you thinking soapy water might help protect the paint?
Guessing it would help smooth it out before the adhesive would take hold. Similar to installing window tint.
exactly
doesn't take much soap, then the water should dry, might give it a slightly cloudy finish but you'd never tell on gray. Adhesion should be good enough and may even help when you go to take it off. Guess well have to stab it with sticks for the full test
I would probably clay block the panels first though to remove any contaminates.exactly
doesn't take much soap, then the water should dry, might give it a slightly cloudy finish but you'd never tell on gray. Adhesion should be good enough and may even help when you go to take it off. Guess well have to stab it with sticks for the full test
interested in seeing how this works for you.Just want to give a shout out and huge thanks
I'm buying you lunch next time we meet up. Saved me some coin on that narrowtrax stuff.
Now, regarding a solution that works... I'm looking at this film. Its 24" x 200', 4mil. $110 but it could likely do 3-4 trucks lol
I have a biz account with ULINE so I am having them send me samples of the 2.5mil and 4mil. I'll do an adhesion test as well as a paint test and let you know my thoughts. Arrives on monday.
Its a heckuva lot cheaper than TrackArmor or Xpels Tracwrap.
- OP 🔹
- #152
Started getting serious about my interior buildout for the Lone Peak. Looking at bringing the electrical in so i can map that stationary stuff out before i worry about everything else.
remembered @speeddev mentioning wanting something like this when we talked in Big Bend. Not sure how it'll do but stainless steel flanges, rear most would be tapped, TPU printed solid middle... drill out as needed.
Fits in those stock opening on the bed bulkhead.
Have to print one to see if itll work.
remembered @speeddev mentioning wanting something like this when we talked in Big Bend. Not sure how it'll do but stainless steel flanges, rear most would be tapped, TPU printed solid middle... drill out as needed.
Fits in those stock opening on the bed bulkhead.
Have to print one to see if itll work.
- OP 🔹
- #153
Well, i dropped my transmission, installed the Sonnax clips (all six) and in the process of putting the VB back on, i messed up somewhere. My truck wouldnt go into to reverse when i was trying to fill'r back up as i mentioned in this post.
@X5Pilot super appreciate you posting about your experience as its helped me diagnose mine.
What happened to me was not the seal X5 dealt with. Instead, somehow i managed to not get the larger seal (the one with a bunch of holes) aligned. After taking it apart i found i had crushed one of the plastic nipples (it went in the hole but only half so it sheared the plastic - i found one plastic piece, hopefully that is all there is
). This likely prevented it from seating properly which is why my truck wouldnt go into gear.
Hopefully i didnt cause any major damage but we're not going to know until i get it put back together which wont happen until i get a new seal. I just got the small seal in today. I should have ordered both but the larger one is $38 so i didnt
Anyway, i'll put it back together once i get the new seal and hopefully be able to get back on the trail
Got another batch of LightGuards to pickup so... i need'r runnin.
@X5Pilot super appreciate you posting about your experience as its helped me diagnose mine.
What happened to me was not the seal X5 dealt with. Instead, somehow i managed to not get the larger seal (the one with a bunch of holes) aligned. After taking it apart i found i had crushed one of the plastic nipples (it went in the hole but only half so it sheared the plastic - i found one plastic piece, hopefully that is all there is
). This likely prevented it from seating properly which is why my truck wouldnt go into gear.Hopefully i didnt cause any major damage but we're not going to know until i get it put back together which wont happen until i get a new seal. I just got the small seal in today. I should have ordered both but the larger one is $38 so i didnt
Anyway, i'll put it back together once i get the new seal and hopefully be able to get back on the trail
Got another batch of LightGuards to pickup so... i need'r runnin.
Last edited:
Will have to document this as I am getting ready to swap out pans and finally get the original, 90K fluid out of there.
Makes me nervous now!
Makes me nervous now!
- OP 🔹
- #155
If you dont drop the VB, you wont run into any of the problems i've had.Will have to document this as I am getting ready to swap out pans and finally get the original, 90K fluid out of there.
Makes me nervous now!
Yall diesels have an easier setup with the exhaust so if you do change your pan, you shouldnt have any issues.
i will say, though, those sonnax clips were much more stiffer than the stockers. But, is it necessary? i dont know. It took some wiggling to get the stock ones out which tells me they still had plenty of spring left in them.
On the other hand though, the stock clips can be squeezed together b/c of the shape. The sonnax will bottom out on itself. See pic below.
Left: stock clip
Right: Sonnax clip
- OP 🔹
- #156
Finally got my valve body back installed. This process was a pain for me so i'm going to share what i did to ensure i got the large seal correctly in position.
NOTE: the first time i installed my valve body it was NOT aligned and i heard a "pop". this was the sound of me crushing the alignment nipple on the seal causing the seal to not seat which is why my truck had 10 neutrals. Yes, i should have NOT continued with putting it back together upon hearing that sound. Lesson learned.
This is the seal i'm talking about. You can see the crushed alignment pin (yes, slightly worried some plastic may be inside the tranny but i cleaned the VB the best i could) Its in the Lord's hands from here. I'm not taking anything else apart to check. Besides it broke one large chunk. I only found one small speck on the valve body. Time will tell.
Anyway...
One thing to note on this seal, there is an ear with a hole in it. This ear played a big part in helping get it aligned.
At first i tried just putting the seal on the VB and raising it into position hoping it would go. Well, i learned really quickly i have no good way of double checking if its actually aligned. The seals causing the machined mating surfaces to have a gap and i dont know what gap to expect.
Therefore, i took a bunch of photos for reference of how the seal will look when properly installed
Heres a few of them:
this is on the bottom of the transmission specifically focused on the gap at the bottom (the part of the seal that is closest to the pink plastic) as that is ALL you can see with the VB up there. Honestly, this one was only slightly helpful but i show it to give you ideas of what all to look at to give you confidence that its seated properly.
The photo below is 1 of 2 money shots. The cast opening on the transmissioin where this seal goes is only so big. As long as the seal is in that opening... it can only be oriented a few ways. Some of them can be wrong so i set out to take pictures of every single one
remember that ear? you can see it in the below picture. The distance from the ear to the cast is what i'm looking for. When the seal is seated properly, that ear looks like the below photo. Its close to the casting. NOTE: this is just a good check if the alignment pin closest to this ear is seated. IT IS NOT A GOOD CHECK FOR THE OTHER one.
This is a picture of NOT GOOD looks like.
Notice how the gap between cast and ear is much larger. Yes, the photos are not the same orientation, etc. Look at the thickness of that ear as a reference to how large the gap is. Regardless what you use, those two distances will ALWAYS be proportional to each other.
I also took photos of roughly what it should look like on the VB, but only focusing on the section i can see with the VB is installed.
Really you want this photo from the bottom up as thats the actual view you'll have. But, i didnt feel like elevating the VB nor flipping it over so this is what i did.
Honestly this shot wasnt that helpful but again, ideas to consider.
After i took all the reference photos, i put the VB in place. You do have to get the smaller seal aligned but i found that one to not cause me ANY trouble. My focus was on this big guy.
I just so happened to have a cheapo Amazon endoscope and utilized the 90deg attachment. It was easy to see with this device. Would certainly recommend spending the $40 on one for this task.
This is how i was able to check for alignment using that ear photo i showed above.
As you can see, the gap between the ear (shiny) and the cast (blurry) is very small. I knew this pin was aligned. all thats left is checking the other one.
Because i didnt trust my reference photos (the slightest deviation was difficult to detect b/c there wasnt enough reference in the photo) the only thing left was to use a 90deg pick and check for a big gap. The alignment pin is decently tall. If its not seated, the pick should EASILY go between the transmission surface and the seal.
I couldnt get a good photo so i show one comparing the gap betwen the VB and the transmission at a bolt mating surface.
you DO NOT want to compare this distance b/c you have two rubber seal contacts (vb to seal, seal to tranny) that will cause it to LOOK big even if seal is in proper place.
You need to look at the gap between the top part of the seal and the bottom part of the tranny. Theres just enough of an opening (you can see it in this photo) to see the gap and get a pick like that in there to check. The pick will semi-fit even when the seal is seated. This is due to the raised edges of the various seals. However, the WHOLE arm of the pick should not fit. If it does, youll need to adjust.
Once you check both of those and they pass, you're good to start the torquing and proceed to the filter then pan.
NOTE: the first time i installed my valve body it was NOT aligned and i heard a "pop". this was the sound of me crushing the alignment nipple on the seal causing the seal to not seat which is why my truck had 10 neutrals. Yes, i should have NOT continued with putting it back together upon hearing that sound. Lesson learned.
This is the seal i'm talking about. You can see the crushed alignment pin (yes, slightly worried some plastic may be inside the tranny but i cleaned the VB the best i could) Its in the Lord's hands from here. I'm not taking anything else apart to check. Besides it broke one large chunk. I only found one small speck on the valve body. Time will tell.
Anyway...
One thing to note on this seal, there is an ear with a hole in it. This ear played a big part in helping get it aligned.
At first i tried just putting the seal on the VB and raising it into position hoping it would go. Well, i learned really quickly i have no good way of double checking if its actually aligned. The seals causing the machined mating surfaces to have a gap and i dont know what gap to expect.
Therefore, i took a bunch of photos for reference of how the seal will look when properly installed
Heres a few of them:
this is on the bottom of the transmission specifically focused on the gap at the bottom (the part of the seal that is closest to the pink plastic) as that is ALL you can see with the VB up there. Honestly, this one was only slightly helpful but i show it to give you ideas of what all to look at to give you confidence that its seated properly.
The photo below is 1 of 2 money shots. The cast opening on the transmissioin where this seal goes is only so big. As long as the seal is in that opening... it can only be oriented a few ways. Some of them can be wrong so i set out to take pictures of every single one
remember that ear? you can see it in the below picture. The distance from the ear to the cast is what i'm looking for. When the seal is seated properly, that ear looks like the below photo. Its close to the casting. NOTE: this is just a good check if the alignment pin closest to this ear is seated. IT IS NOT A GOOD CHECK FOR THE OTHER one.
This is a picture of NOT GOOD looks like.
Notice how the gap between cast and ear is much larger. Yes, the photos are not the same orientation, etc. Look at the thickness of that ear as a reference to how large the gap is. Regardless what you use, those two distances will ALWAYS be proportional to each other.
I also took photos of roughly what it should look like on the VB, but only focusing on the section i can see with the VB is installed.
Really you want this photo from the bottom up as thats the actual view you'll have. But, i didnt feel like elevating the VB nor flipping it over so this is what i did.
Honestly this shot wasnt that helpful but again, ideas to consider.
After i took all the reference photos, i put the VB in place. You do have to get the smaller seal aligned but i found that one to not cause me ANY trouble. My focus was on this big guy.
I just so happened to have a cheapo Amazon endoscope and utilized the 90deg attachment. It was easy to see with this device. Would certainly recommend spending the $40 on one for this task.
This is how i was able to check for alignment using that ear photo i showed above.
As you can see, the gap between the ear (shiny) and the cast (blurry) is very small. I knew this pin was aligned. all thats left is checking the other one.
Because i didnt trust my reference photos (the slightest deviation was difficult to detect b/c there wasnt enough reference in the photo) the only thing left was to use a 90deg pick and check for a big gap. The alignment pin is decently tall. If its not seated, the pick should EASILY go between the transmission surface and the seal.
I couldnt get a good photo so i show one comparing the gap betwen the VB and the transmission at a bolt mating surface.
you DO NOT want to compare this distance b/c you have two rubber seal contacts (vb to seal, seal to tranny) that will cause it to LOOK big even if seal is in proper place.
You need to look at the gap between the top part of the seal and the bottom part of the tranny. Theres just enough of an opening (you can see it in this photo) to see the gap and get a pick like that in there to check. The pick will semi-fit even when the seal is seated. This is due to the raised edges of the various seals. However, the WHOLE arm of the pick should not fit. If it does, youll need to adjust.
Once you check both of those and they pass, you're good to start the torquing and proceed to the filter then pan.
- OP 🔹
- #157
Getting those seals aligned just right and the transmission fluid to the right level got me outta my "10 neutrals" situation.
Just in case anyone's wondering... if you drop your valve body after not getting the seal aligned and you let it sit dripping for approx a week or so while new parts come in... it actually takes about 10 quarts to get the fluid to the correct level.
I put in 5.5ish quarts and it started leaking out. I go to do the warm-up drive and it stops reversing before i get out of my shop. I ended up adding 5-6 MORE quarts before getting it to overflow.
At this point, i am 99% sure i have replaced about 80+% of the transmission fluid in my transmission.
Unless someone on here figures out how to get a PPE pan on a '22 or older truck WITHOUT removing the exhaust, i'll be rocking the stocker until further notice.
Just in case anyone's wondering... if you drop your valve body after not getting the seal aligned and you let it sit dripping for approx a week or so while new parts come in... it actually takes about 10 quarts to get the fluid to the correct level.
I put in 5.5ish quarts and it started leaking out. I go to do the warm-up drive and it stops reversing before i get out of my shop. I ended up adding 5-6 MORE quarts before getting it to overflow.
At this point, i am 99% sure i have replaced about 80+% of the transmission fluid in my transmission.
Unless someone on here figures out how to get a PPE pan on a '22 or older truck WITHOUT removing the exhaust, i'll be rocking the stocker until further notice.
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Or, just a thought here, remove the exhaust and put in some Stainless Works long tube headers and the new transmission pan.
- OP 🔹
- #159
Oh, if i remove anything, upgrading will be the first thought when reinstallingOr, just a thought here, remove the exhaust and put in some Stainless Works long tube headers and the new transmission pan.
- OP 🔹
- #160
FINALLY got around to installing something i built from an idea @speeddev gave me in Big Bend. i need 120v in my bed and this helped me do that
304 SS brackets. rear one is threaded and the middle piece is TPU. Popped a hole to run the cable.
This gives me 120 in the bed for next week when i leave for Colorado to work for a few days remote before heading down to Expo West. Im actually meeting up with a guy to test out a camper bracket i've been trying to develop for Ram trucks. Excited about that as i've had quite a bit of interest in them but have had a hard time getting it tested.
Anyway, this trip will be the longest ive taken in the LP yet. It should definitely help me solidify plans for my build out.
304 SS brackets. rear one is threaded and the middle piece is TPU. Popped a hole to run the cable.
This gives me 120 in the bed for next week when i leave for Colorado to work for a few days remote before heading down to Expo West. Im actually meeting up with a guy to test out a camper bracket i've been trying to develop for Ram trucks. Excited about that as i've had quite a bit of interest in them but have had a hard time getting it tested.
Anyway, this trip will be the longest ive taken in the LP yet. It should definitely help me solidify plans for my build out.
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