HOT! Alternative to the Ford Performance Winch at less than half the cost???

I have been meaning to get an install video together. My truck has been apart so many times for all the test fitting that it wouldn't be a true install video showing what all needs to come off. We did just install one of these for a forum member who happened to be local, bit unfortunately his truck was recently hit in the front and the body shop left key items out of his truck so we were not able to use it for an install video.

Here is the install photo of the most recent one we put in, installed on a 2020 non tremor 6.7.
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This looks like Vegas, are you located there?
 
Damnit. If i had of known that i would have contacted you about one. I knew nothing about it and got a ford one. At least it was 33% off, but thats still a nice setup you made
Awesome, at least you got a deal on it!
 
@Wapitihunter - I was just looking into doing this exact winch install, and didn’t realize you had already done it. It’s been a bit now, hows everything working? I was reading in the manual on page 6, this statement -

“Your winch should only ever be installed with the rope/cable winding onto the drum on the lower side, closest to the mounting bolts. Your winch is not designed or rated for the rope/cable winding onto the top of the drum near the cross member supports.
Ensure your winch rope or cable is wrapping onto the drum as per the arrow stickers on your winch. Typically, when looking at the vehicle front on, the winch motor will be installed on the left hand side of the vehicle. Installing your winch backwards will result in the winch brake failing to work.”

I didn’t realize you had to install the winch opposite of what they recommend. I’m assuming this is because where the rope needs to feed into the winch is too low if mounted the other way? Anyway, just wanted to see how things have been working for you, and if you’d do it this way again. I want to do exactly the same thing, but only if it works properly without issue. Did you buy the isolator they offer, or your own? Thanks
 
@Wapitihunter - I was just looking into doing this exact winch install, and didn’t realize you had already done it. It’s been a bit now, hows everything working? I was reading in the manual on page 6, this statement -

“Your winch should only ever be installed with the rope/cable winding onto the drum on the lower side, closest to the mounting bolts. Your winch is not designed or rated for the rope/cable winding onto the top of the drum near the cross member supports.
Ensure your winch rope or cable is wrapping onto the drum as per the arrow stickers on your winch. Typically, when looking at the vehicle front on, the winch motor will be installed on the left hand side of the vehicle. Installing your winch backwards will result in the winch brake failing to work.”

I didn’t realize you had to install the winch opposite of what they recommend. I’m assuming this is because where the rope needs to feed into the winch is too low if mounted the other way? Anyway, just wanted to see how things have been working for you, and if you’d do it this way again. I want to do exactly the same thing, but only if it works properly without issue. Did you buy the isolator they offer, or your own? Thanks
Yea. I still have concerns. No issues but not heavily used. The direction of pull on the shaft is the same right? Put your left hand on the motor and use your thumb to confirm that. imagine over vs under and orientation flipped and the rotation doesn’t change. Keep the motor on the typical location and go over instead of under and your rotation does change. Perhaps the best way to think about that is to realize you don’t have to rewind the winch vs as delivered. That means direction of pull is the same.

The stress on the bolts remain my concern. Force x distance. And in addition to that it’s not a square pull. The angle of the mount puts the force at an angle not dead on (shear). This describes it best but presumes straight pull:


I went with their kit. Made a custom mounting plate for all it. It’s all in the photos. I like having a fuse and an isolation switch in event of an accident.

No hard use yet but the plate is stout. I went with high strength bolts but remain a bit concerned.

I would plan on redrilling your mount. Center the winch IMHO. Considering going back in and doing that myself. I don’t see how it is ever going to self spool right and the biggest concern is how tight the motor is to the frame horn and bumper. The free spool lever is so much smaller on a Sherpa you have room.
 
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Yea. I still have concerns. No issues but not heavily used. The direction of pull on the shaft is the same right? Put your left hand on the motor and use your thumb to confirm that. imagine over vs under and orientation flipped and the rotation doesn’t change. Keep the motor on the typical location and go over instead of under and your rotation does change. Perhaps the best way to think about that is to realize you don’t have to rewind the winch vs as delivered. That means direction of pull is the same.

The stress on the bolts remain my concern. Force x distance. And in addition to that it’s not a square pull. The angle of the mount puts the force at an angle not dead on (shear). This describes it best but presumes straight pull:


I went with their kit. Made a custom mounting plate for all it. It’s all in the photos. I like having a fuse and an isolation switch in event of an accident.

No hard use yet but the plate is stout. I went with high strength bolts but remain a bit concerned.

I would plan on redrilling your mount. Center the winch IMHO. Considering going back in and doing that myself. I don’t see how it is ever going to self spook right and the biggest concern is how tight the motor is to the frame horn and bumper.
I see what you mean. That article makes it sound like, because of how the winch motor is located in the overwound setup (figure 4) that it’s “okay” but still puts on significantly more force, as you mentioned, on the mount/hardware. I will get everything in the kit welded up, then see where I need to drill new holes. The winch power is way overkill for me, but still, I want to make sure everything is proper. I guess I also need to figure out the ACC relocation as well. For some reason I thought the trucks that had factory winches still had the ACC in the same spot. Dont’ know why I was thinking that. Anyway, thanks for the reply
 
I see what you mean. That article makes it sound like, because of how the winch motor is located in the overwound setup (figure 4) that it’s “okay” but still puts on significantly more force, as you mentioned, on the mount/hardware. I will get everything in the kit welded up, then see where I need to drill new holes. The winch power is way overkill for me, but still, I want to make sure everything is proper. I guess I also need to figure out the ACC relocation as well. For some reason I thought the trucks that had factory winches still had the ACC in the same spot. Dont’ know why I was thinking that. Anyway, thanks for the reply
Redrilling also gets rid of the slots. Torqued correctly perhaps not an issue but more than a few manuals do not allow for slotted holes for obvious reasons.

The winch power is not overkill if you have more line on the drum than you can get out. I amped out my 16.5warn on my aev ram more than a few times. Snatch block for the win to reduce the stress.
 
Redrilling also gets rid of the slots. Torqued correctly perhaps not an issue but more than a few manuals do not allow for slotted holes for obvious reasons.

The winch power is not overkill if you have more line on the drum than you can get out. I amped out my 16.5warn on my aev ram more than a few times. Snatch block for the win to reduce the stress.
So knowing what you know now, besides drilling new holes, would you do this project still?
 
So knowing what you know now, besides drilling new holes, would you do this project still?
Yes. For my purposes. Some a day trail ready bumper with a high approach angle and the feet of the winch backed up against a plate facing the pull. but this works for now.
 
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So whatever came about with a Group Buy or being mass-produced?
 
So whatever came about with a Group Buy or being mass-produced?

Haven't had enough people come forward to run a group buy. I have changed vendors for the laser cutting and I have lowered the price point as much as I can to relieve some of the pandemic inflation. If I can get enough interest I can ask my laser cutter to do a bulk run and see what kind of discount he can offer.
 
23+ fitment confirmed!!!
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Can you stick a warn zeon 12 winch in there and see if it fits?
 
Can you stick a warn zeon 12 winch in there and see if it fits?
I don't have one to demo or I would. But judging off the case dimensions and the ability to remote mount the relay I am fairly confident that it will fit.
 
I don't have one to demo or I would. But judging off the case dimensions and the ability to remote mount the relay I am fairly confident that it will fit.
I already have the winch and control pack relocation from my last bumper. Did the brackets change from the previous body style trucks?
 
I already have the winch and control pack relocation from my last bumper. Did the brackets change from the previous body style trucks?
The winch bracket I have should fit 2017-2024, the winch bolt pattern is fairly standard at 10" x 4.5" I believe.
 
I’d be interested in a group buy
 
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