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Not at all. They are not in-line and it’s the perspective angle playing mind games!Is there any risk on hitting the catch can with the nose of the diff?
So the External catch can is actually from my previous truck.Great write-up and photos—all praises due.
This is perfect for anyone on the fence, totally doable in your garage. No need to pay $200+ an hour at a shop when you can do it better yourself by following these guidelines. I’ve got a bit of a personal vendetta based on some experiences, if you couldn’t tell.
What bothers me most about CCV to atmosphere is the amount of vapor that comes out at times—it’s inconsistent but at times it can be very overwhelming. Not sure if that’s normal, but based on what you observed in just 300 miles, I’m guessing it is. I was going to do Venturi, but that was another thing I got screwed on, and now, a year and a half later, I don’t care—I’m leaving it as is plus I definitely do no want that them vapors being expelled out of my tail pipe. I would never-ever recommend this to anyone. If you're not doing a catch can, do not feed it into your exhaust and vapors expel via the end of the hose.
My hose dumps under the driver’s seat.
For those who don’t know, my truck’s use is far from standard stop-and-go driving. It spends a lot of time idling, which I suspect is the reason for the excessive vapors. The vapors themselves have no noticeable odor, but if you punch it with the windows down, you will catch a strong burning oil smell.
That's funny - that's the same hose I just saved in my amazon list. Nice! I also saved a coupler so I figured 15 ft total should give me plenty of run to get this thing back far enough for me to not careI’ve used this twice as my extension piece.
EVIL ENERGY 3/4" Silicone Heater Hose 10FT Coolant Radiator SAE 20R3 60PSI
I’ll try and get a picture of my old trucks hose route. I was really clean.
i thought a venturi reroute was supposed to the Crème de la crème in regardes to CCR reroutes - all around best option. Did you run into some chaos or what with yours? I heard installation angle and location though are of the upmost importance otherwise it can cause all kind of issues.Great write-up and photos—all praises due.
This is perfect for anyone on the fence, totally doable in your garage. No need to pay $200+ an hour at a shop when you can do it better yourself by following these guidelines. I’ve got a bit of a personal vendetta based on some experiences, if you couldn’t tell.
What bothers me most about CCV to atmosphere is the amount of vapor that comes out at times—it’s inconsistent but at times it can be very overwhelming. Not sure if that’s normal, but based on what you observed in just 300 miles, I’m guessing it is. I was going to do Venturi, but that was another thing I got screwed on, and now, a year and a half later, I don’t care—I’m leaving it as is plus I definitely do no want that them vapors being expelled out of my tail pipe. I would never-ever recommend this to anyone. If you're not doing a catch can, do not feed it into your exhaust and have the vapors expel via the end of the hose.
My hose dumps under the driver’s seat.
For those who don’t know, my truck’s use is far from standard stop-and-go driving. It spends a lot of time idling, which I suspect is the reason for the excessive vapors. The vapors themselves have no noticeable odor, but if you punch it with the windows down, you will catch a strong burning oil smell.
Nice build, man. Glad I could perform some R&D help for you. May be false hope, but it would be awesome if a tune came out that was emissions- on with the exception of the CCV sensor.After a few questions, additional update added above:
** For the CCV Re-Route w/ Internal Catch can replacing the factory box & sensor. It’s capped with Shibby Plug and no codes or errors from that not being “connected” I’ve heard some concerns that might throw a code.
A tuner and parts manufacturers both advised this should cause no issue or codes.
Shoutout to @The Evil Twin for helping test that here and I provided the tuner with the code thrown on his rig so they could prep a correction if required.
Just took these if they help with perspective. No concerns here with clearance and I think it’s more protected behind the tank than the suggested mounting locations.Is there any risk on hitting the catch can with the nose of the diff?
I thought the same at first but after running a hose end to the atmosphere and seeing how much vapor comes out of the crankcase, I definitely don’t want that coming out of my tailpipe. It’s bad enough having it vent from the hose end under my driver’s seat, filling the whole drive side area; I can’t imagine the attention it would draw from bystanders if all that vapor came from the tail.i thought a venturi reroute was supposed to the Crème de la crème in regardes to CCR reroutes - all around best option. Did you run into some chaos or what with yours? I heard installation angle and location though are of the upmost importance otherwise it can cause all kind of issues.
Reminds me of school busses in the 90's. They all vented the crankcase to the atmosphere.The greyish-blue color instantly reminds me of early Lincoln Continentals cruising around with blown head gaskets.
I've deleted my truck a while back (stealth, so the EGR just gets welded closed internally or something like that). I"m moving to a state that I no longer need to keep this stuff, and want to just get an EGR block off kit. I see they have the "pass-through" plates and some don't. I also purchased the SPE coolant reroute kit. I see you have both installed. Can you help me understand why the pass through plate if you rerouted the coolant hoses? or what the benefit is to the pass-through plate vs just a flat block off plate?Just wanted to share progress on the tune and delete for my new truck if anyone has interest in the process.
Parts used were as follows:
Tuned w/ Proven (Full Support & EZLynk)
DieselR Downpipe
DieselR 5" Stainless Exhaust
Dirty Diesel 8" Round Stainless Muffler
DieselR EGR Delete w/ Flow Through Blockoff Plate
DEF Tank Full Delete/Removal
SPE Disaster Prevention Kit
SPE Fuel Filter System
SPE CCV Reroute
SPE External Catch Can
SPE Intake Piping Kit
SPE Air Intake Kit
SPE Hot Side Pipe Kit
SPE Thermostat
SPE Coolant Hose Reroute
SPE Turbo Coolant Reroute (SPE & Improved Racing) - Not Available Yet
SPE Oil Filter Housing
SPE Oil Pan w/ Billet SS Plug
SPE 16-Qt Billet Oil Cap
Ford DEF Delete Panel (HC3Z-9928646-A)
Shibby Engineering Plug Kit w/ DEF Plug
DieselR 9th Injector Plug - If preferred over Shibby Plastic
Shibby Engineering CCV Plug (If Required - was not)
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SPE Oil Pan & Oil Filter Housing will go on at first oil change.
Very happy with all the parts and SPE has been my go to for the last 4 trucks. Sounds great and is running amazing!
Nothing overly complicated when doing all this at once and made the job with removing and adding parts far easier when done at once. Maybe 3-4 days of on/off work as I had time.
You may catch a glimpse of the OTC Upfitter Harness Extension. Quality and makes the future use of upfitters so easy.
Happy to answer any questions for those of you considering any of these upgrades.
* Turbo Coolant Reroute was a combination of SPE turbo components to replace the OEM standpipes and convert to o-ring sealed AN fitting to barb.
I then purchased Improved Racing Fittings:
5/8" Hose Barb to 5/8 (15.82mm) Female Quick Connect, 45-Degree, Single Button
Part #: BQF-045-10-10
And wrapped it all up with cutting the SPE hose to length and my own SS ear clamps.
** For the CCV Re-Route w/ Internal Catch can replacing the factory box & sensor. It’s capped with Shibby Plug and no codes or errors from that not being “connected” I’ve heard some concerns that might throw a code.
A tuner and parts manufacturers both advised this should cause no issue or codes.
Shoutout to @The Evil Twin for helping test that here and I provided the tuner with the code thrown on his rig so they could prep a correction if required.
For sure brother. The simple answer is the EGR Block Off Plate w/ pass through simply allows the coolant flow through both ports as the loop works with the EGR installed vs blocking both sides and “dead heading” that coolant into the plate bolted on.I've deleted my truck a while back (stealth, so the EGR just gets welded closed internally or something like that). I"m moving to a state that I no longer need to keep this stuff, and want to just get an EGR block off kit. I see they have the "pass-through" plates and some don't. I also purchased the SPE coolant reroute kit. I see you have both installed. Can you help me understand why the pass through plate if you rerouted the coolant hoses? or what the benefit is to the pass-through plate vs just a flat block off plate?
So this would be better to allow flow to continue, and I can install both setups like you to clean up the bay as well? thanks!For sure brother. The simple answer is the EGR Block Off Plate w/ pass through simply allows the coolant flow through both ports as the loop works with the EGR installed vs blocking both sides and “dead heading” that coolant into the plate bolted on.
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The SPE Coolant Reroute is really for aesthetics. It cleans up the engine bay of the hoses that are typically on the top of the engine over intake manifold.
Hopefully that helps and if I’m wrong, someone will correct me![]()
Are you removing the EGR cooler? If so, you only need the block off plate kit. I think it's 3 plates all together for all the EGR ports.So this would be better to allow flow to continue, and I can install both setups like you to clean up the bay as well? thanks!
I am removing it as soon as I move. But they still offer these passthrough plates for EGR deletes, so it confused me a bitAre you removing the EGR cooler? If so, you only need the block off plate kit. I think it's 3 plates all together for all the EGR ports.
From what I understand, it goes under the block off plate which allows coolant to flow through those ports or holes allowing the coolant to run a tad cooler although I don't know of anyone actually doing that?I am removing it as soon as I move. But they still offer these passthrough plates for EGR deletes, so it confused me a bit