Whipple Installed!

[VB!]

Spark plug questions.

The Whipple has been in the truck now for 25,000 miles (30,000 on the truck) and it's time for spark plug regapping or replacement. I find two conflicting pieces of information on the spark plugs.

First, the required spark plug with a Whipple is a regaped stock plug.

Second, this is from the Whipple instructions.
Parts
Ford 7.3L engines have had issues in the past with spark plug wires. Its highly recommended for vehicles with 10,000 or more miles to replace spark plug wires with new Ford wires PN LC3Z-12286-C. Whipple recommends 1 step colder spark plugs, Motorcraft SP-581, NGK 95822 (ILTR7N8), GNK 95605 (LTR7BX) or Ford Racing M-12405-35T-10-C gapped to .031”.

The numbers on the current plugs are CYFS 092YPT3, N0078. Ford is listing SP589, (CYFS12YT6) as the stock plug. I can't find Motorcraft SP-581 anywhere. Anyone know what is the correct plug to run? What are you running and why?

 

[Optimus🤖]

Spark plug questions.

The Whipple has been in the truck now for 25,000 miles (30,000 on the truck) and it's time for spark plug regapping or replacement. I find two conflicting pieces of information on the spark plugs.

First, the required spark plug with a Whipple is a regaped stock plug.

Second, this is from the Whipple instructions.
Parts
Ford 7.3L engines have had issues in the past with spark plug wires. Its highly recommended for vehicles with 10,000 or more miles to replace spark plug wires with new Ford wires PN LC3Z-12286-C. Whipple recommends 1 step colder spark plugs, Motorcraft SP-581, NGK 95822 (ILTR7N8), GNK 95605 (LTR7BX) or Ford Racing M-12405-35T-10-C gapped to .031”.

The numbers on the current plugs are CYFS 092YPT3, N0078. Ford is listing SP589, (CYFS12YT6) as the stock plug. I can't find Motorcraft SP-581 anywhere. Anyone know what is the correct plug to run? What are you running and why?

View attachment 263443

View attachment 263444

The reason you can't find the Motorcraft SP-581 that Whipple recommends is because Ford updated the part number to SP-581-X. That plug is a 1-step colder plug originally designed for the supercharged 5.2L V8 engines, like the ones in the Shelby GT500 and Raptor R.

You definitely want to go with Whipple's recommendation of a 1-step colder plug. The "regapped stock plug" advice you saw is likely outdated or for naturally aspirated setups.

You have a few good options, and all of them need to be gapped to .031" just like Whipple states:

Motorcraft SP-581-X
NGK 95822 (ILTR7N8)
NGK 95605 (LTR7BHX)

A lot of guys running boost prefer this NGK Ruthenium plug because it holds up incredibly well to high-output and tuned applications.

Since your truck is at 30,000 miles (and 25,000 on the blower), you should absolutely follow Whipple's other instruction: replace the spark plug wires with the new Ford updated wires (PN LC3Z-12286-C). Whipple highly recommends doing this for any 7.3L with over 10,000 miles to prevent ignition issues.

Hope this helps get the truck dialed back in!

 

[X5Pilot]

Whipple sent the SP 581 X with my supercharger in May 2025. The latest plug wire is now -D. My 2024 came with that D wire, and so far it's still the latest version. Over the last year, they have more than doubled in price. Rock Auto, they are 31.00, but you can find a discount code for RA that's 5% off too.

 

[DTX2023Tremor]

Spark plug questions.

The Whipple has been in the truck now for 25,000 miles (30,000 on the truck) and it's time for spark plug regapping or replacement. I find two conflicting pieces of information on the spark plugs.

First, the required spark plug with a Whipple is a regaped stock plug.

Second, this is from the Whipple instructions.
Parts
Ford 7.3L engines have had issues in the past with spark plug wires. Its highly recommended for vehicles with 10,000 or more miles to replace spark plug wires with new Ford wires PN LC3Z-12286-C. Whipple recommends 1 step colder spark plugs, Motorcraft SP-581, NGK 95822 (ILTR7N8), GNK 95605 (LTR7BX) or Ford Racing M-12405-35T-10-C gapped to .031”.

The numbers on the current plugs are CYFS 092YPT3, N0078. Ford is listing SP589, (CYFS12YT6) as the stock plug. I can't find Motorcraft SP-581 anywhere. Anyone know what is the correct plug to run? What are you running and why?

View attachment 263443

View attachment 263444

I recommend getting these spark plug wires:

Ton's Ceramic Titanium Sleeved Spark Plug Wire Set 11" Ford 7.3L GODZI – Ton's Performance https://share.google/2dxEGXJ2Ht87wYGMs

While you're at it, upgrade your ignition coils to these:

MSD 82838 7.3L GODZILLA IGNITION COIL, RED, SET OF 8 https://share.google/CFMVvBsPIuHycItIc

 

[VB!]

The reason you can't find the Motorcraft SP-581 that Whipple recommends is because Ford updated the part number to SP-581-X. That plug is a 1-step colder plug originally designed for the supercharged 5.2L V8 engines, like the ones in the Shelby GT500 and Raptor R.

You definitely want to go with Whipple's recommendation of a 1-step colder plug. The "regapped stock plug" advice you saw is likely outdated or for naturally aspirated setups.

You have a few good options, and all of them need to be gapped to .031" just like Whipple states:

Motorcraft SP-581-X
NGK 95822 (ILTR7N8)
NGK 95605 (LTR7BHX)

A lot of guys running boost prefer this NGK Ruthenium plug because it holds up incredibly well to high-output and tuned applications.

Since your truck is at 30,000 miles (and 25,000 on the blower), you should absolutely follow Whipple's other instruction: replace the spark plug wires with the new Ford updated wires (PN LC3Z-12286-C). Whipple highly recommends doing this for any 7.3L with over 10,000 miles to prevent ignition issues.

Hope this helps get the truck dialed back in!

Whipple sent the SP 581 X with my supercharger in May 2025. The latest plug wire is now -D. My 2024 came with that D wire, and so far it's still the latest version. Over the last year, they have more than doubled in price. Rock Auto, they are 31.00, but you can find a discount code for RA that's 5% off too.

I recommend getting these spark plug wires:

Ton's Ceramic Titanium Sleeved Spark Plug Wire Set 11" Ford 7.3L GODZI – Ton's Performance https://share.google/2dxEGXJ2Ht87wYGMs

While you're at it, upgrade your ignition coils to these:

MSD 82838 7.3L GODZILLA IGNITION COIL, RED, SET OF 8 https://share.google/CFMVvBsPIuHycItIc

I have the Motorcraft SP581X on order. My truck is a early '23 and I thought it had the "C" wires already. I checked, yep, C wires. It already has a new belt. I'm just going to focus on pinning the balancer and the 25K mile tune up items for now.

I keep tossing around other changes but I'm trying to resist. Needing to keep the manifolds and cats is just killing me. Both 5 Star and Whipple told me they need to go to really get more out of it.

 

[WinterWarlock21]

Been awhile since any updated this thread
Okay I’ll give a full break down of pricing for this build below. I haven’t seen anyone give a real breakdown like this before on the websites I viewed while researching this.

I went to National Speed Inc. in Wilmington NC. This is my third time there. I went for stage 1 and stage 3+ on my 2016 tundra - that got to 499-wheel horsepower on 37’s. It was awesome.

I am currently on the full catalog of PMF 2-inch suspension lift and 37s on 18s with fox 2.5 performance shocks all 4 corners and new leaf spring pack. It’s a 2022 F-250 4x4 with the 7.3 non-tremor 3.55 gears that was custom order from factory. I am 2nd owner since 91,000-ish miles. Previous vehicle was a 2021 Ram TRX – so a supercharged truck is a must for me.

Anyways here are the items that went on during this build, some items I bought myself and some the shop bought (they had to buy the supercharger to warranty it).

$9,749.99 - Whipple Gen 6 3.0 Supercharger
$750.00 – Whipple Powder Coating Service – Ford Texture Blue
$638.51 – ATI Damper
$155.98 – ATI Crank Pin Drill Kit
$51.56 – ARP Balancer Bolt Kit
$94.50 – NGK Spark Plugs #LTR7BHX
$460.80 – Updated Ford Spark Plug Wires
$31.18 – Ford Manifold Gaskets
$122.00 – 5w-30 Amsoil 8 Quarts
$10.60 – Oil Filter
$199.96 – HPT Universal Tuning Credit
$2,156.00 – Stainless Works – Long Tube Headers 2.0 inches
$1,596.00 – Stainless Works – Redline Catback Exhaust
$169.00 - J&L Oil Catch Can

$16,186.08 – Total Parts
$7,488.22 – Total Labor, Dyno, and Tuning Fee
$23,674.30 – Total Cost

Baseline Engine Rating – 430 hp and 475 tq
Baseline Dyno – 341 whp and 370 tq
Roughly 20% and 22% driveline loss
After Install Dyno – 612 whp and 598 tq
If we consider 20%/22% from baseline – 765 hp and 766 tq estimated at Engine

It is very noticeably faster than my Supercharged Tundra and it’s 90% of what my TRX was (at least passing power wise). I do miss the awd from the TRX but I love everything else about this Ford. Next round of upgrades will be traction bars – I do not have any wheel hop as of now, 58-gallon fuel tank, and a big break kit – I currently do not have a front sway bar but I might add now. Extremely happy with how it turned out.

 

[Modman]

Appreciate the cost breakdown!!

 

[WinterWarlock21]

Appreciate the cost breakdown!!

No problem, like to be transparent and hopefully it helps someone else when they go digging for info/wanting to supercharge as well! All for research lol

 

[ccradier]

I am in the process of pinning my crank with ati as well. I got the crank pinned and hub on. Just need to torque everything down in the morning and slap the belts, fan and shroud on. All and all the ati pin kit went faster than I was expecting. Now to see if my idea for torquing down the pulley will work.

 

[ccradier]

View attachment 274713View attachment 274715View attachment 274714View attachment 274719

Been awhile since any updated this thread
Okay I’ll give a full break down of pricing for this build below. I haven’t seen anyone give a real breakdown like this before on the websites I viewed while researching this.

I went to National Speed Inc. in Wilmington NC. This is my third time there. I went for stage 1 and stage 3+ on my 2016 tundra - that got to 499-wheel horsepower on 37’s. It was awesome.

I am currently on the full catalog of PMF 2-inch suspension lift and 37s on 18s with fox 2.5 performance shocks all 4 corners and new leaf spring pack. It’s a 2022 F-250 4x4 with the 7.3 non-tremor 3.55 gears that was custom order from factory. I am 2nd owner since 91,000-ish miles. Previous vehicle was a 2021 Ram TRX – so a supercharged truck is a must for me.

Anyways here are the items that went on during this build, some items I bought myself and some the shop bought (they had to buy the supercharger to warranty it).

$9,749.99 - Whipple Gen 6 3.0 Supercharger
$750.00 – Whipple Powder Coating Service – Ford Texture Blue
$638.51 – ATI Damper
$155.98 – ATI Crank Pin Drill Kit
$51.56 – ARP Balancer Bolt Kit
$94.50 – NGK Spark Plugs #LTR7BHX
$460.80 – Updated Ford Spark Plug Wires
$31.18 – Ford Manifold Gaskets
$122.00 – 5w-30 Amsoil 8 Quarts
$10.60 – Oil Filter
$199.96 – HPT Universal Tuning Credit
$2,156.00 – Stainless Works – Long Tube Headers 2.0 inches
$1,596.00 – Stainless Works – Redline Catback Exhaust
$169.00 - J&L Oil Catch Can

$16,186.08 – Total Parts
$7,488.22 – Total Labor, Dyno, and Tuning Fee
$23,674.30 – Total Cost

Baseline Engine Rating – 430 hp and 475 tq
Baseline Dyno – 341 whp and 370 tq
Roughly 20% and 22% driveline loss
After Install Dyno – 612 whp and 598 tq
If we consider 20%/22% from baseline – 765 hp and 766 tq estimated at Engine

It is very noticeably faster than my Supercharged Tundra and it’s 90% of what my TRX was (at least passing power wise). I do miss the awd from the TRX but I love everything else about this Ford. Next round of upgrades will be traction bars – I do not have any wheel hop as of now, 58-gallon fuel tank, and a big break kit – I currently do not have a front sway bar but I might add now. Extremely happy with how it turned out.

I am wondering what the headers got you power wise. I am so up in the air on those.
And I dig the blue Whipple. I love the look on mine. TOTTALLY worth the extra && .

 

[WinterWarlock21]

I am wondering what the headers got you power wise. I am so up in the air on those.
And I dig the blue Whipple. I love the look on mine. TOTTALLY worth the extra && .

Agree I am glad I went with the Ford Textured Blue, I know I don't see it daily but it looks awesome lol. And cannot give you any idea on the headers to powder ratio. I wish I had time to do Whipple stock with whipple tune, then a new better tune, then headers stock whipple tune, then headers new tune lol. Just not enough time. I will agree that I was 50/50 on the headers because I had stainless works on my tundra and had awful park surging idle issues, it would just bounce between 700-1,200 rpms non stop sitting in a parking lot. So I was hesitant, luckily no issues with them now (I did provide o2 extended bungs but haven't crawled under to see if they used them or now).

 

[ccradier]

I am more hesitant on the raspy nature they tune in to the exhaust. I am running Whipples tune at the moment been 20000iles on it and so far am happy. But I am contemplating going catless and custom tuned to see what it is worth.

 

[WinterWarlock21]

I am more hesitant on the raspy nature they tune in to the exhaust. I am running Whipples tune at the moment been 20000iles on it and so far am happy. But I am contemplating going catless and custom tuned to see what it is worth.

20,000 and no issues? I'd keep what you got to be honest, not worth the hassle if something goes wrong etc...haha

 

[ccradier]

20,000 and no issues? I'd keep what you got to be honest, not worth the hassle if something goes wrong etc...haha

Yea, surprisingly I have been very fortunate. Only issue was a broken coolant tank very early on. But I put a aluminum on on and have had zero issues since. I did do a trans filter service and 2 extra drain and fills running the afe pan. My engine oil pressure is at a minimum 21 psi hot idle and 92ish cold. I am content at the moment. Traction is a problem though lol. When these 38's are gone I might drop back to a 37. While 38's look good the weight and milage are not!

 

[X5Pilot]

I've had my Whipple for just over a year and have had no issues. I just added a Truck Norris cam and Johnson lifters trying to avoid any lifter/cam issues. I used custom Manton level 5 pushrods, PRW Elite roller rockers and PAC springs. 5Star did the tune and got it perfect after a few data logs. I had them boost the hot idle oil pressure to 28 psi. Had to buy the Whipple "red" bypass spring which is one level weaker as the vacuum at idle dropped to about 6" from the cam's overlap. The bypass valve would surge back and forth as there wasn't enough vacuum to hold it open at idle.

 

[xrocket21]

I am more hesitant on the raspy nature they tune in to the exhaust. I am running Whipples tune at the moment been 20000iles on it and so far am happy. But I am contemplating going catless and custom tuned to see what it is worth.

For what it's worth, the long tubes made my truck MUCH louder, too loud in my opinion. WOT is obnoxious.

 

[xrocket21]

Thank you for posting dyno numbers! I tried to get mine dynoed but it was a fail. They did it in the wrong gear, they didn't take it to redline, and somehow I only hit like 5 lbs of boost. It was a total waste of time and money.

 

[John889]

This thread is not good for my ability to wait till next year.

Decided to take the truck to Palm Beach Dyno for the install/tune.
Not going to do headers.
I've seen some change out the cam, but may just want to do blower only.

 

[Fatawan]

I've had my Whipple for just over a year and have had no issues. I just added a Truck Norris cam and Johnson lifters trying to avoid any lifter/cam issues. I used custom Manton level 5 pushrods, PRW Elite roller rockers and PAC springs. 5Star did the tune and got it perfect after a few data logs. I had them boost the hot idle oil pressure to 28 psi. Had to buy the Whipple "red" bypass spring which is one level weaker as the vacuum at idle dropped to about 6" from the cam's overlap. The bypass valve would surge back and forth as there wasn't enough vacuum to hold it open at idle.

Did you do the cam and lifter swap with the engine in the truck? If so, how did that go--pain? How did your cam/lifters look when you took them out?

 

[xrocket21]

Man I wish I got the Ford Blue powdercoat, SO much money for just a color though. Looks fucking sick.