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- #561
Whipple Installed!
- OP 🔹 GT-SD
- Start date
Figured a quick online chat or phone call could confirm stock if needed ASAP.
Now I've never even seen the movie, but That's fuckin sick, brah!
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Get well soon.That’s the dilemma, right? Is the fun worth the cost?
Nobody is putting a Whipple on a 7.3 for towing performance — that’s just a bonus. The 7.3 already tows perfectly well stock. If your real goal is more towing power, the 6.7 is the obvious answer.
The Whipple is for the sound. The power-to-weight ratio of a forced-induction large-displacement gasser. The instant torque. The absurdity of a one-ton truck (or 3/4-ton for the ladies) leaving the line like it has no business doing that.
A Whipple will never pencil out. That’s just the way it is. But if you plan on keeping the truck long term and can afford the added operating costs, it will sting a lot less. I’ve spent more time ruminating on this than I care to admit, and it always boils down to one question. Is the fun worth the cost? That’s it.
I decided to wait until my powertrain warranty is up. Won’t be much longer at this point, and with my fourth kid making his entrance, I won’t have time to do the install for a while anyway. At that point, I’ll revisit whether we’re close enough to needing a diesel that I just skip it and put the money into my Bronco instead. The Bronco would be WAY more fun with a Whippled 7.3 in it anyway. That or put the money toward a Cherokee Six or C210.
Anyway, stuck in the hospital so I’ve got time to think about all this.
Cough.. cough.....
Getthehodiesel...
1,200torqes.
16mpg.
Win. Win.
GETbBETTER first
Oh, you've got to be kidding. They are hard to find. Once I had that, I cancelled the Jeg order.
Nope, no kidding. I have two on order from different sources now quoting delivery a month apart. My Jegs order shows delivery in late May and the Throtl order shows delivery the first week of May.
Who will win the drop shipping wars?
For fun, I looked at McMaster-Carr and they don't even have something that would work. They're too short and Class 8.8.
The $5.00 stock Ford one looks pretty tempting.... but no.
Note the ARP bolt has a weird head. I got a 12 point socket to fit it, but it wasn't the correct socket. Since you have time, which isn't a luxury I had, consider buying the right socket.
I just installed a Fluidampr, 750201, on my 2024. BTW, many vendors show this damper only works for 2020-2022, but it does work for all current SD 2020 and up. The whole reason for this project was to pin the crank. I was going to replace the crank seal while I was there, but they are on national backorder and won't see them until June, maybe. The dealers who had a few won't sell them. Pretty straightforward, as I removed the fan and fan shroud. I had the front up on ramps and removed the steering damper below to gain access from below. To install the A/C stretch belt, the Ford shop manual shows that you use a zip tie to hold the belt on the rear pulley and rotate the crank to slip it on. Fluidampr does not have any holes for a zip tie, so I removed one of the 6 bolts that hold it together, which allows you to use a zip tie. Reinstall the bolt with red loctite, and Fluidampr said 40 lbs/ft.
Trying to hold the damper while torqueing the ARP bolt, 125 lbs/ft + 90 degrees, with a strap wrench is a challenge, even with two people. I just found that Fluidampr sells a holding tool, part number 300020, so I'll recheck mine when it shows up. BTW, ARP confirmed that their crank bolt is reusable, unlike the OEM bolt. The ARP bolt takes a 12-point 21mm socket.
Trying to hold the damper while torqueing the ARP bolt, 125 lbs/ft + 90 degrees, with a strap wrench is a challenge, even with two people. I just found that Fluidampr sells a holding tool, part number 300020, so I'll recheck mine when it shows up. BTW, ARP confirmed that their crank bolt is reusable, unlike the OEM bolt. The ARP bolt takes a 12-point 21mm socket.
Semper Fi, I’m retired marine, gathering up the rest of the equipment that you and others have recommended getting to install the supercharger on my 24 tremor, my question is I’m planning on using the innovators west balancer and they offer different pulley sizes is there any reason to go bigger than stock size. Waiting on wipple now to send it still awhile out. The information that you and the others is extremely valuable.
I kept the stock size, as that keeps the belt speed the same as Ford designed it. A larger damper would help decrease engine vibrations compared to a smaller one, but increase the belt speed and over-speed the blower. Some guys have changed the pulley diameter on the Whipple to get more boost, but have had Whipple issues as they won't warranty it if over sped. I think our stock setup will spin the blower at 18,000 rpm at our redline. That's 8 pounds of boost. Plus, that bigger damper would take more engine power as the blower is a drag on that belt, and the motor is trying to overcome that with that increased belt speed.
Too small a damper, then it won't reduce the engine vibrations like a larger one would, but it would help the motor to pick up a little quicker, and the blower would never hit the max rpm limit.
I bought the Innovations West puller/installer kit along with their Godzilla adapter, which is a must to install the damper, as the threads in the crank are back in there deep. Since the OEM Ford damper doesn't have screw holes used for removing it, you need a puller that has 3 claws.
Semper Fi
Too small a damper, then it won't reduce the engine vibrations like a larger one would, but it would help the motor to pick up a little quicker, and the blower would never hit the max rpm limit.
I bought the Innovations West puller/installer kit along with their Godzilla adapter, which is a must to install the damper, as the threads in the crank are back in there deep. Since the OEM Ford damper doesn't have screw holes used for removing it, you need a puller that has 3 claws.
Semper Fi
- Jan 24, 2025
- 208
- 238
- Navy
- 2024 F-350 Lariat with Lariat ultimate, Tremor, 7.3L Godzilla, BAP and Sun/moon Roof
Is this a wise move to put a damper on just the stock 7.3 engine never mind a whippled 7.3?Here is a place that appears to have the ARP bolt.
I just ordered the bolt from them, so I'll find out if it really is in stock.
ARP 258-2501 Ford Godzilla 7.3L ARP2000 Harmonic Damper Bolt Kit
Buy ARP 258-2501 Ford Godzilla 7.3L ARP2000 Harmonic Damper Bolt Kit At Fast Track Auto. Serving the Performance Parts Industry for over 50 Years! Access to Thousands of Parts and Hundreds of Brands, Free Shipping Available!shopfasttrack.com
I'm also ordering a Fluidampr 750201 crank damper. Much better than the OEM rubber-isolated HB. I've already seen a broken crank snout on the forums. I got to call them this morning to verify a few things. This is an easy install as our cranks are internally balanced. Summit and Jegs have the best price I've found. My pin kit comes today.
NEW - Fluidampr announces damper for Ford Godzilla 7.3L engine • Fluidampr - Manufacturer of Performance Dampers For Gas & Diesel Engines
Fluidampr announces the release of the new Ford Godzilla 7.3L engine performance damper. Part number 750201 fits 2020+ 7.3L Ford Super Duty Trucks, 2021+ E- Series Vans & Crate Enginefluidampr.com
For the Godzilla, we need a special bolt to install the HB, as the threads are deep in the crank, and we need an extra-long bolt/tool to install it. This place has it, along with a great puller/installer kit.
7.3L Ford Godzilla Crankshaft Damper Install Adapter
innovatorswest.com
Also, putting a new compressor belt on since they are cheap and have to be removed anyway. PN: PC3Z-8620C. Also, a new front crank seal PN: GK2Z-6700D.
I'm posting all this in case someone else may want to do this. I figure I'll have it almost torn down all the way, might as well upgrade the damper.
I’m also interested to know if doing the second pin difficult to do with the fluidampr or the innovators west dampener?
It has a damper on it from the factory already. It's an internally balanced motor, so it has a damper instead of a harmonic balancer, which is used for externally balanced motors. The reason I upgraded the damper was that I needed to pin the crank to the damper because I was getting elevated iron on my oil analysis due to the press fit and the damper slightly slipping. The drag caused by the Whipple can cause this. So I put a better damper on while I had it apart.
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There are several kits out there, and I picked one that has just 1 pin. I wouldn't think 2 would be necessary at our power level. I got the Pro Charger kit for Godzilla.
I was a lot meaner to mine on one very long day when I had to get somewhere, included Eisenhower pass, oil temperature was never an issue. 4.5mpg average for that day.
For those questioning how the kit does while doing heavy work….under boost all day, in the heat….it was flawless for me.
The soft 1st gear power delivery made perfect sense on that day, as it matched the traction to the power at low speeds.
- Jul 26, 2025
- 2,162
- 3,956
- '25 F350 XLT Tremor 7.3 Guzziller Carbonized Grey
- '16 F150 5.0 Coyote/6R80 SuperCrew
Tell you what, Fluidamper has an application for this 7.3 and it is something I'd consider installing even when keeping the motor N/A.
A good time would be if the front crank seal ever starts leakin' for any reason...
A good time would be if the front crank seal ever starts leakin' for any reason...
Any of you Whipple guys have any startup issues? I use my remote start all the time and lately it starts on just a few cylinders and runs rough, sometimes it comes out of it, sometimes it stalls. When I try again it starts right up. No CELs, runs absolutely fine when Im driving it, just intermittent rough start. I only have like 5k miles on the kit, I doubt it is spark plugs already. Anything plug wire related I would think it would start rough all the time.
- OP 🔹
- #578
Might check your battery. I had some rough running starts when my battery was weak. Like all newer autos, the electronic control does not like very low voltage. Not sure what exact item caused the rough idle or strange warm-up sequence, but it was resolved when I put in a new battery.
Thank you, but put a brand new battery in last winter, bastard stocker died at like 28k miles
Sounds like a fuel pressure issue to me. I think there is a one-way check valve in the fuel pump to keep fuel in the line for the next start. It's bleeding down after you shut the motor off.
Edit: Found this in the shop manual.
Fuel Pump (FP) Assembly
The FP assembly contains the fuel pump and sender assembly. The fuel pump is located inside the FP
assembly reservoir and supplies fuel through the FP assembly manifold to the engine and FP assembly
jet pump. The jet pump continuously refills the reservoir with fuel, and a check valve located in the
manifold outlet maintains system pressure when the fuel pump is not energized. A flapper valve located
in the bottom of the reservoir allows fuel to enter the reservoir and prime the fuel pump during the initial
fill.
Edit: Found this in the shop manual.
Fuel Pump (FP) Assembly
The FP assembly contains the fuel pump and sender assembly. The fuel pump is located inside the FP
assembly reservoir and supplies fuel through the FP assembly manifold to the engine and FP assembly
jet pump. The jet pump continuously refills the reservoir with fuel, and a check valve located in the
manifold outlet maintains system pressure when the fuel pump is not energized. A flapper valve located
in the bottom of the reservoir allows fuel to enter the reservoir and prime the fuel pump during the initial
fill.
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