Whipple Installed!

Just another update. Sitting around ~58,000 miles. Just after my last oil change, I had to have the front seal replaced again. This time, it went to a competent shop, not the same dealer. The reason the front seal was leaking is #1 the dealer did not clean or prep the area prior to putting the seal in, and #2 the technicians found paper (like the paper the seal is packed in), in the main seal upon disassembly. Just to add to the disappointing performance from the dealer. Not sure why they would do a substandard job, maybe they didn't want to put it back together, so they just half-assed it. The competent shop technicians said it was not difficult to remove the pulley and realign it, even with the drilled key. So, for anyone who did the ProCharger drill kit for keying the crank, a front main seal replacement shouldn't be an issue.

As you can see from the report, everything looks good. This is my first time using Amsoil and it does seem to be different. The oil was less dark and thicker than prior changes, which the report confirms. Amsoil was also more “difficult” to clean up in the pan. The best way to describe it was that it didn’t absorb into rags well and smeared more. The analysis of viscosity and TBN indicates it still has plenty of life. When cutting the filter open, there was little to no debris and everything looked good. I always like to run a few cycles when comparing oils and their performance, so went back in with Amsoil and we should get another look at 60k.

22 F350 Oil Analysis 55k.webp

22 F350 Tremor Oil Filter 55k.webp
 
Truck did some heavy towing recently and worked the truck, probably the hardest it had been worked. Towing my travel trailer with 25 – 30 steady (35 – 40mph gust) winds pumping out of the SE, which is the exact direction we were headed. Towing ~15k lbs, 100” wide x 13.5’ tall x 43’ long at 65 – 70mph normally allows the engine to stay in “low vacuum” and “boost” on overpasses or slight hills, maintaining 8th gear. With this wind, it stayed in Boost 1 – 2 psi and ~6psi on hills and overpasses for over 4 hours straight without stopping. Talk about a drinking problem 270 miles, 5.8mpg. Thank you Transferflow for the 58 gallon tank. This setup handled it great and never felt lacking for power, just had to help it shift to 7th on a few of the steeper inclines since Whipple still hasn’t fixed the cruise control downshift issue in the calibration.

Towing Setup.webp

Coolant and Block Temp Towing.webp

Ambient and Intake Temp Towing.webp

You can see the temperature range during the towing. Nothing concerning.
 
Truck did some heavy towing recently and worked the truck, probably the hardest it had been worked. Towing my travel trailer with 25 – 30 steady (35 – 40mph gust) winds pumping out of the SE, which is the exact direction we were headed. Towing ~15k lbs, 100” wide x 13.5’ tall x 43’ long at 65 – 70mph normally allows the engine to stay in “low vacuum” and “boost” on overpasses or slight hills, maintaining 8th gear. With this wind, it stayed in Boost 1 – 2 psi and ~6psi on hills and overpasses for over 4 hours straight without stopping. Talk about a drinking problem 270 miles, 5.8mpg. Thank you Transferflow for the 58 gallon tank. This setup handled it great and never felt lacking for power, just had to help it shift to 7th on a few of the steeper inclines since Whipple still hasn’t fixed the cruise control downshift issue in the calibration.

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You can see the temperature range during the towing. Nothing concerning.
How were the oil temps in sustained boost?
 
How were the oil temps in sustained boost?
Unfortunately, on the 2022 7.3L, there is no Oil Temperature. There is no place for it on the instrument cluster, and the PID does not transmit any data. Based on Cylinder Block, Coolant Temp, and Intake Temp, my expectations are that the oil temperature would not have been outside of the operating range. The truck's cooling system and supercharger did not appear to struggle with heat rejection. When the oil gets changed in a month or so, we can see how it impacted properties. This was not the only heavy long tow performed with the truck during this OCI, so the results of the next OCI will reflect the oil's condition after a thousand miles or so of sustained supercharger demand.
 
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Good thing to see your iron has settled down. My truck is only at 7000 miles, but the iron was at 21 for the first oil report after my Whipple was installed. The filter pleats were spotless. I drive it conservatively and rarely put my foot in it. I'm going to change the next one at 2500 and watch it. Makes me nervous with the cam/lifter issues. My oil temp stays between 190-195 all day long.
 
Good thing to see your iron has settled down. My truck is only at 7000 miles, but the iron was at 21 for the first oil report after my Whipple was installed. The filter pleats were spotless. I drive it conservatively and rarely put my foot in it. I'm going to change the next one at 2500 and watch it. Makes me nervous with the cam/lifter issues. My oil temp stays between 190-195 all day long.
Did your installation include pinning the balancer to the crank? The balancer probably goes an inch or more into the block through the main seal. I am almost certain my iron readings were due to that slipping. It made a mess on the front of the block with fine iron dust, but it is easy for it to fall into the oil pan. Fortunately, the oil goes through the filter, so it never reaches any parts, but after replacing the balancer pulley and pinning the crank, the iron situation resolved itself.
 
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Thanks, I'll look into that. Appreciate it.
 
So many possible issues, if you're running a Whipple without a pinned crank, you are doing it wrong.
 
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Well, I ordered the pin kit and the ARP bolt, hoping this will reduce the iron. Thanks for the info.
 
So many possible issues, if you're running a Whipple without a pinned crank, you are doing it wrong.
I'm shocked the Whipple does not come with a crank pin kit....
 
I'm shocked the Whipple does not come with a crank pin kit....
Early versions did not, newer do. I ordered mine last spring and it came with an ARP pin kit. They didn't advertise it though.

we6GhJX.jpeg
 
Hello forum I am new to this thread, I have a 24 tremor and have spent most of the day reading this thread, and am wondering if this upgrade is worth the juice for the squeeze with all of the issues and extra mods that need to be done, I was looking at doing this to my truck but now am not sure?
 
Hello forum I am new to this thread, I have a 24 tremor and have spent most of the day reading this thread, and am wondering if this upgrade is worth the juice for the squeeze with all of the issues and extra mods that need to be done, I was looking at doing this to my truck but now am not sure?
What is it you're looking for?
 
I would. The only issue I had was the vacuum hose setup for the brake booster. Their pictures in the manual were older than my 24, and it took a few phone calls and pictures to figure out how to modify the plumbing.

One thing I'm not sure people know about is that the hose they use from the top nipple of the plastic one-way check valve part that routes to the brake booster totally collapses under the vacuum, especially after it gets hot under the hood. The rubber gets soft and isn't rigid enough. The Ford OEM hose is hard plastic, but it can't be bent to the new setup. Whipple sent me a new hose, but it didn't help. I bought a 1/2" silicone vacuum hose from Amazon, and it stays round now. Whipple told me they'd look into that and might have to change it. The red hose on top is what I'm talking about. After you turn the truck off, that check valve keeps the vacuum in the hose to the brake booster so it stays collapsed even after shutdown.
 

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I would. The only issue I had was the vacuum hose setup for the brake booster. Their pictures in the manual were older than my 24, and it took a few phone calls and pictures to figure out how to modify the plumbing.

One thing I'm not sure people know about is that the hose they use from the top nipple of the plastic one-way check valve part that routes to the brake booster totally collapses under the vacuum, especially after it gets hot under the hood. The rubber gets soft and isn't rigid enough. The Ford OEM hose is hard plastic, but it can't be bent to the new setup. Whipple sent me a new hose, but it didn't help. I bought a 1/2" silicone vacuum hose from Amazon, and it stays round now. Whipple told me they'd look into that and might have to change it. The red hose on top is what I'm talking about. After you turn the truck off, that check valve keeps the vacuum in the hose to the brake booster so it stays collapsed even after shutdown.
I need to check mine to see if it is collapsing. I also had trouble with the brake booster part. Also, for me, they didn't include the T-MAP sensor, or the bolts to mount the heat exchanger(and they weren't a bolt you could just get at the store, they are a weird machined spacer bolt), my heat exchanger was damaged in shipping, the bolts for the MAF were wrong, the tune they sent was wrong, their directions on adjusting tire size were wrong.....

That red powdercoat looks sick man!
 
If you had to do it over would you have done it for the price of the kit versus the headaches
Let me re-phrase...

Why do you want a supercharger? Do you tow heavy? Are you going to drag race? Will you take it to a dyno? car shows? For example, X5 Pilot says just above, "I drive it conservatively and rarely put my foot in it."

Are you installing yourself? Are you cool with shorter oil change intervals? Are you installing yourself?
 
Let me re-phrase...

Why do you want a supercharger? Do you tow heavy? Are you going to drag race? Will you take it to a dyno? car shows? For example, X5 Pilot says just above, "I drive it conservatively and rarely put my foot in it."

Are you installing yourself? Are you cool with shorter oil change intervals? Are you installing yourself?
I own a gen2 lightning and love the sound of the supercharger, I do not plan on drag racing, more for show and occasionally will be pulling, thanks
 
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