Whipple Installed!

On another note. Here is the Fathouse reservoir mounted.
 

Attachments

  • 20250506_070315.webp
    20250506_070315.webp
    213.8 KB · Views: 54
ccradier said:
So you have a new harness or adapter for the throttle body? Just to rule it out plug your factory throttle back up and see if the codes go away.
Click to expand...
Already got it out of the attic. I had the same idea. Will try it with the Whipple wire extension and without. It could be a bad harness also.
 
I might have gotten lucky. I took the oem intake manifold with the TB on it and connected it to the throttle wire harness. I first did a continuity check on the Whipple harness extension and all 6 terminals checked. I fired up Forscan and cleared all the DTC codes and then reran the DTC check. All but 2 disappeared but most importantly, both P0600 and P168E which are PCM related, are cleared. I think I got a bad electronic throttle control. The only 2 DTCs left are IPNA and ABS. Those won't clear but are U codes. I sent the info to Whipple so I'm waiting to hear back. Kind of explains why all of a sudden the truck wouldn't start as I didn't do anything to it and it was running great.

IMG_6728.webp
 
Last edited:
I feel when you take in to account how many of these kits are sold, to failure of things not to bad. Ford also forced some changes on the newer trucks that Whipple had to adjust to. I also see more gas super duties being sold in the private market now, than ever before. only better for us gassers in the long run. The question is how each stand behind their product and support. How many owners are willing to pay $10,000.00+ dollars for this install. Granted there seems to be a higher concentration of willingness on this forum to do so. Still better for us gas guys. The tuning should be perfect out the gate, especially sine Ford is supposedly involved in the process. And now with The above failure found, It finds weak points to better make products. Everything is still designed, cut and put together by man we are not perfect by any means. Stuff still get through the qaqc process, look at the issues plaguing every manufacture.
I now wonder if Isthatahemi's problem might be hardware related seeing this. However I can say the knowledge and desire to help on this forum is awesome. Most of us don't know each other from Adam and I am almost positive most would go out of their way to help a fellow member out of most situations lol. Maybe not Optimus! Kidding here I would be their to help a brother out whole heartedly. Is this mod needed? NO. Is it for everyone? No. The cost to enter this is high, cost to operate is high and the chance for failure is high. I can do all the work, repairs my self. I am also willing to help others as GT-SD and Isthatahemi both sent me multiple emails and tips involving install. Don't be afraid to pursue your desire of a supercharged 7.3. Things happen and help is a keystroke away.
 
X5Pilot said:
I might have gotten lucky. I took the oem intake manifold and connected it to the throttle wire harness. I first did a continuity check on the Whipple harness extension and all 6 terminals checked. I fired up Forscan and cleared all the DTC codes and then reran the DTC check. All but 2 disappeared but most importantly, both P0600 and P168E which are PCM related, are cleared. I think I got a bad electronic throttle control. The only 2 DTCs left are IPNA and ABS. Those won't clear but are U codes. I sent the info to Whipple so I'm waiting to hear back. Kind of explains why all of a sudden the truck wouldn't start as I didn't do anything to it and it was running great.

View attachment 209867
Click to expand...
Yep - throttle body wiring is the most common issue I've seen that sets off all the bells and whistles. I assume by manifold you meant throttle body? (i realize that harness connects to both)
 
Here is a PDF of my datalog, showing the issue that I am having in 1st and 2nd gear.

To clarify, the APP (pedal position) floored is not commanding full throttle continuously until 4th gear. The first 3 gears it's just not opening.

Having done lots of logs, a throttle not opening is not normal, closing it to manage torque would be normal, but the truck isn't making much power with the throttle half closed.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Isthatahemi said:
Yep - throttle body wiring is the most common issue I've seen that sets off all the bells and whistles. I assume by manifold you meant throttle body? (i realize that harness connects to both)
Click to expand...
Yea It's all connected as I didn't take the TB off the oem manifold. A new TB is on the way but still have 2 U codes that won't clear, ABS and IPNA. I hope the TB's are more reliable than this as it would ground you for a while if on a trip. Can't go to the local Ford dealer for a new TB.
 
Those are likely associated codes to the TB issue, the ABS requires TB control to function correctly, loss of signal can cause ABS warnings (due to AdvanceTrac etc etc issues)
 
Last edited:
GT-SD said:
The Whipple doesn't work quite like that. The engine remains Normally Aspirated up until the point you call for Boost. Then a valve opens and allows the supercharger to put a lot more air in. When running the truck empty, boost only happens ~2 - 3% of the time, usually during acceleration events. The reason you get additional power, even with the engine running under the NA situation 97 - 98% of the time, is the intake configuration change (the Whipple Intake), a larger throttle body (150MM?) and a tune on 91 octane along with larger injectors. This significantly increases the stock motor output without the added boost. From my experience during normal driving, even with fairly aggressive acceleration, the boost rarely kicks in.

So under normal operations and when I was experience the flare shift was very light throttle and lower speeds; at these levels there is not much difference from the engine output and performance than a stock motor.


Whipple Tune does include transmission optimization.


The flare shift in the 3 - 4; 4 - 5 is a common complaint in 7.3's with the 10 speed. Mine developed it in the 8 - 10k range. In many of the complaints I read, people would take it to the dealer, it would run great afterwards and then develop the goofy shifting again 100 - 1000 miles later. So it would shift great until the Adaptive Learning would "learn" and start modifying shift strategies. After watching many, many videos on 10R80 and 10R140 rebuilds, problems and understanding how they work, especially with the valve body configuration, it started to point to the adaptive learning process doesn't properly account for transmission break-in and pressure differences causing some of these flares. Shutting the Adaptive learning off is easy with ForScan. You can reset it and then stop it from the ForScan App on your phone.
Click to expand...
What is “flared” shifting?
 
Rooster said:
What is “flared” shifting?
Click to expand...
The best way to describe it is a noticeable increase in engine RPM during a gear change. It feels like a slip or delay that occurs when the transmission fails to engage the next gear quickly or firmly. Its a slipping sensation or soft delayed shift.

Since the Whipple calibration update, my transmission only experiences flared shifts on rare occasions when it is cold and it is almost exclusively the 3 - 4 - 5 (3 - 4 or 4 - 5) shift range. If it happens, it only occurs once shortly after startup and is normal after
 
GT-SD said:
The best way to describe it is a noticeable increase in engine RPM during a gear change. It feels like a slip or delay that occurs when the transmission fails to engage the next gear quickly or firmly. Its a slipping sensation or soft delayed shift.

Since the Whipple calibration update, my transmission only experiences flared shifts on rare occasions when it is cold and it is almost exclusively the 3 - 4 - 5 (3 - 4 or 4 - 5) shift range. If it happens, it only occurs once shortly after startup and is normal after
Click to expand...
Shit, my stock truck does a flared shift occasionally
 
xrocket21 said:
Shit, my stock truck does a flared shift occasionally
Click to expand...
And that is the source of the tuned flared shift. It carries
xrocket21 said:
Shit, my stock truck does a flared shift occasionally
Click to expand...
The issue in the Whipple calibration is an artifact of the stock tune. Ford needs to resolve the base file to fix it basically
 
xrocket21 said:
Shit, my stock truck does a flared shift occasionally
Click to expand...

If I don’t drive my truck moderately aggressively it will flare the 3-4 upshift. Same thing in my wife’s 24’ Expedition. Definitely a Ford tuning issue on both transmissions. I try to accelerate purposefully in both vehicles until the 3-4 upshift is complete.
 
Good news, I got it running, but don't ask me how. The refurbished TB that Whipple sent showed up this afternoon. I installed it and ran the DTC check, and just P168E was there, and it cleared. I then reloaded the Whipple map and checked for DTCs with Forscan, and the 2 U (ABS and IPNA) faults were still there, and the truck wouldn't engage the starter. Frustrated, I went inside to think about it. I thought about a remote start and a start in neutral that I haven't tried yet.

I went back out and tried 2 remote starts with the phone app and got no starts. I then hopped in to try a neural start, and the shift lever was locked, so I pushed the start button to turn the truck on, hoping it would release the shift lever, and it started. It's like the remote start triggered something. All the brake warnings were going off, but after 30 seconds, they were all gone. So tomorrow I'll check for DTCs and if any, clear them and drive it to make sure they stay gone. Once that's confirmed, then I'll throw my original TB on since it's new and not refurbished to make sure that's not the issue. It's been down since the 2nd.

These trucks are spooky. A few months ago, I started it up one morning and got warnings that the coolant was over temp and the water gauge was at 365. It was 40 degrees out. Only half the cylinders were firing, and it was shaking. I hooked forscan up and there were 5 or 6 codes that all cleared. The truck started up and ran like the day I bought it, and it never happened again. One thing I learned is to never go on a trip without your laptop.
 
I want to update my lockout no start, as it might help someone in the future. It wasn't the TB.
I was able to replicate my no-start, and it has to do with the Ravelco I installed about 6 months ago. Without giving away the Ravelco install, before the new Whipple map was installed, if you forgot to plug in your Ravelco key and tried to start, the truck wouldn't start, and no codes were thrown. You plug in the key and everything starts normally.

Now with the Whipple and new map installed, if you forget to plug the Ravelco key in, you get about 6 DTCs, and the truck is locked out from starting. You can't clear the faults with Forscan. It's "hard broke". I got lucky after about 10 days with a broken truck, when I tried a remote start with the Ford app on my phone, the truck didn't start, however, if you then get in the truck and try a conventional start with the start button, it starts and you can clear the faults. I was already planning to have it towed to the dealer until I discovered this. The problem is that all the fault codes have nothing to do with where the Ravelco is installed. No codes with the OEM map and 6 codes with the Whipple map. Go figure. I talked to Ravelco tech support before I installed it, and the 2 circuits they suggested were used because those don't throw fault codes. I'm looking at other areas to relocate 1 of the circuits of the Ravelco to another area. Maybe this info will help someone in the future. I've emailed Whipple all the info, and hope they'll look at the map they are using.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Tremor Forum Fav 👍

3" Square Plastic Hitch Plugs for Ford Super Duty - Grab a set through Amazon!

Tremor Forum Photos

Latest Discussions

Back
Top Bottom