Whipple Installed!

I meant to say, I've thrown parts at it, 2 set of plug wires, 3 sets of plug, and because there is no individual cylinder misfire, (it's a random (cylinder) misfire during power limiting), there's no evidence of a mechanical issue.

It took off all the injectors, nothing found visually or contamination wise. Whipple has stated they need to resolve it, so looking any further is futile according to them, and I agree. Waiting 9 weeks for revision is the issue, unfortunately.
 
JTredway said:
depinning is a pretty simple procedure, you really should use a depinning tool as each connector is slightly different. but you typically stick a small pin/flathead (like super tiny) down the front of the connector into the little side slits and can pull it out. Some harness require you to pull the entire sheath to depin a single from a bulk harness. I too prefer to depin connectors most of the time, I have a kit that I got for my german cars, but it's universal kit.

I have a kit similar to this: Amazon Link


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this little tang in red is what you're trying to depress so that you can pull the pin out.
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Depinning was the bane of my existence when I was in the Air Force. Be it test set cables or cannon plugs on the jet, the tools provided to remove any given pin always suuuuuuuucked and broke in the back of the connector. There is an art to it and anyone who does it on a daily has my full respect.
 
If anyone has a video of their truck launching in four-wheel-drive, I’d like to see it. If this is a tune issue then in theory, it affects everyone and I’m the only person bothered by it not working properly.

I say four-wheel-drive specifically because in 2 Wheel Dr. it’s hidden by the loss of traction.

I'll post a video of mine closing the throttle when I have a moment to take one.
 
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I'm having issues now after 200 miles. I went out Friday to start the truck and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. It won't start and has about 7 or 8 DTCs. P0600 and P168E. All the ABS DTCs are U codes. No hill descent, electric parking brake, and collision avoidance are all out of commission. Canbus issues, I guess. I've had an email sent to Whipple since Friday and called them today. They say they are working on it. I put another known good battery in and checked all fuses that have DTC codes, but I can't think of any plugs or wires that were unplugged during the install that could cause this. I can't see how they can fix this, and I bet I'll have to have it towed to the dealer. I wonder if these OTA updates are messing with the new map they gave us.
 
Man, that is super rough.
I suggest resetting the KAM, reflash the tune, and reset all CEL’s and KAM again.

Although that many CELs often suggests a pinched or disconnected wiring,. Perhaps take a very close look at your throttlebody wiring.
 
Man makes me feel better about my coolant resivoir leaking. Been a just over a week and no drips or sweet smell of burning coolant. The aluminum resivoir was a nice addition to the supercharger. No codes or drivabilty issues on my 2020. Just that lovely whine!
 
I put the aluminum reservoir on during installation. A little more inconvenient to check, but a mirror and flashlight make it easy without having to climb up on the truck. I'll try resetting KAM and reinstall the tune. I've looked at all the wiring and nothing is pinched. I even pulled the cover off the C175B connector again to see if any pins had retracted back as I repinned 90 during the install. The only thing I did with Forscan was to clear the transmission shift strategy so it could relearn with the Whipple on, but it ran fine for 50 miles or so after that. Still waiting to hear from Whipple. Hopefully, they have seen this before.
 
Does your PCM have its powers and grounds, what all connectors where repined and what were their locations, did you mess with the under hood fuse box at all? 2020 was a fairly simple install. as far as wiring goes. I saw some broncos were having issues with those 2 codes you listed. I have seen at times some these Ford connectors go together and slightly bend a pin over and all broke loose! Whipped out the volt meter and a wiring diagram and ended up after an hour only needing a mirror lol. It drove fine on test initial test drive then the transmission lost itself on the second.
 
X5Pilot said:
I'm having issues now after 200 miles. I went out Friday to start the truck and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. It won't start and has about 7 or 8 DTCs. P0600 and P168E. All the ABS DTCs are U codes. No hill descent, electric parking brake, and collision avoidance are all out of commission. Canbus issues, I guess. I've had an email sent to Whipple since Friday and called them today. They say they are working on it. I put another known good battery in and checked all fuses that have DTC codes, but I can't think of any plugs or wires that were unplugged during the install that could cause this. I can't see how they can fix this, and I bet I'll have to have it towed to the dealer. I wonder if these OTA updates are messing with the new map they gave us.
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On the 2023 - 2024 models, do you have to change some of the pinning for the install? What does that do? For the 2022 install, it was all pretty much plug and play with just adding a harness to account for the new MAP sensor. Is that different on the 2023 - 2024 models?

It might be a good idea to unplug, inspect all of the pins and replug anything you disconnected or unplugged during the install. When installing things like headlights and other accessories that have plug and play harnesses, it amazes me how sensitive the connections are.

Also, did you have any errors or low voltage when installing the calibration? It is recommended to hook up a battery charger to ensure no corruption of the PCM. I have had several people tell me they bricked their PCM's (not necessarily SuperDuty's) due to low battery voltage while loading the calibration. When this Whipple modification started, they emphasized putting a maintainer on the battery during the loading of the calibration. Not sure how critical it is in reality, but hopefully your PCM isn't giving up the ghost.

On a side note, Ford's quality on these electrical systems is really disappointing. I bought a 2024 Bronco for my daughter, and with 110 miles, it had an episode with similar faults. All the CANBUS, U0401, etc, and the Bronco died in the parking lot. It was a Saturday evening so drove up to the school, cleared all the codes and reset everything. It started right up and drove normally and hasn't experienced an issue since, about 3k miles on it now. Called the dealer on the following Monday, and they said that sometimes it happens, drive it some more, and call them if it occurs again. Total BS I know, but dropping it off is a hassle, especially if they are going to tell me they can't find anything.
 
Pin #90 in the C175B connector. That pin is for the AAT, powertrain ambient temp sensor. The only other area that you go into is the fuse box under the hood and they send a tap a fuse with a 5 amp fuse and you pull #39 and put that 10 amp fuse in the tap a fuse. Then put the tap a fuse in slot 39. That 39 is for antilock brakes. When troubleshooting, I put the 10 amp fuse back in 39 and still no change since there are alot of antilock brake codes.

The big thing that concerns me in this area is the fuse box lid will not go back on flush. They have you notch the side of the lid for the tap a fuse wire to come out, but I found the tap a fuse itself is too tall and will not allow to cover to go back on flush. I caught this before I was finished so no water has gone in there. I cut out the top of the lid above the tap a fuse and taped over and caulked that opening. I may find another key on power source under the hood and just buy a new fuse box lid. The symptoms are similar to others that have gotten water in the fuse box. Maybe on earlier models the tap a fuse would fit, but not under a 2024 fuse box lid.

This all happened by itself after 230 miles or so. Nothing was messed with under the hood. I did ask them if maybe one of the wiring harnesses that came with the kit may be faulty. I haven't heard back yet.
 
I just rebooted the pcm and abs modules with forscan and reinstalled the map with the Tomahawk and still nothing. Being able to reboot the pcm tells me it's getting power. I think there is a comm issue in the canbus. Couldn't find clear the KAM in the service section in forscan.
 
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The dash lights up like normal but the starter doesn't activate. One of the DTCs is P168E and that says internal control module monitoring of engine start authorization.
 
ccradier said:
is the 175b connector on the ecm? I dont have access to the diagrams for this year truck yet.
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Yes I have the 2024 shop manual and there is a lot of ecm things on it. The C175E next to it has a lot of engine control components the ecm runs along with the transmission control. I didn't get into that plug.
 
Man looking at what all that connector does I'd start there. You might have to pull the connector out and use a mirror or borescope and check to make sure all the pins are erect. Also might need to ohm out the wires to where they go. I'm not sure why the pin out didn't post here but I see in my email. There is can bus wires and brake switch, guessing you have a push button start. Might try to use the remote start and see if it at least cranks. Also check fuse 15 listed in there. might have popped it.
 
Also check the orientation of the fuses. Swap positions and make sure there booth good. It might be trying to pull to much current through the 5 amp one. Sorry for the multiple replies just going back and reading what was posted and looking at the pinout diagram.
 
All great suggestions, and I'll try those tomorrow. I pulled and checked all fuses in that box that had anything to do with the ECM and brakes.
 
I did some digging around in the 2024 shop manual and discovered a few possibilities. The 2 power DTCs I have are P0600 and P168E. Here is what the shop manual says about them. My guess is that maybe the 132mm throttle plate or harness they provided may be faulty. Notice P168E says it may be caused by aftermarket performance parts. You'd think that Ford building the new map would have eliminated that, or everyone would get that. I sent this to Whipple, so I'll see what they say.

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