What have you 3D printed?

What are you after? You can accomplish quite a bit with good old LiDAR on a newer iPhone if you don't need sub-millimeter accuracy.
Tell me more....

I will cavate that I'm not an apple guy buy my wife does have an iPhone, how new does it need to be?
 
I kinda want to dip my toes in the 3d printing world. Any opinions on a Bambu A1 vs PS1 as I see both of those frequently recommended for hobbyist level printing. Both are on sale right now through black friday but I'm not sure what the higher end PS1 offers that I might wish I had if I go with the A1?

How needed is an AMS system?
 
Tell me more....

I will cavate that I'm not an apple guy buy my wife does have an iPhone, how new does it need to be?
I want to say 12 or so. There are lots of apps out there for it, some are better than others. KIRI Engine, ScandyPro, Polycam, Scaniverse, just to name a few.
 
Tell me more....

I will cavate that I'm not an apple guy buy my wife does have an iPhone, how new does it need to be?
Good point @McE
i was able to use Scaniverse for free using my iphone 14. Might take a few iterations but itll get you 70-80% of the way.
 
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I kinda want to dip my toes in the 3d printing world. Any opinions on a Bambu A1 vs PS1 as I see both of those frequently recommended for hobbyist level printing. Both are on sale right now through black friday but I'm not sure what the higher end PS1 offers that I might wish I had if I go with the A1?

How needed is an AMS system?
I have an x1c. Wouldnt even think about getting a non enclosed printer. Too limiting.
 
Agree with @OmahaBravo get a X1C at a minimum. Yes it is more expensive but is worth it, otherwise you will just be buying a different one in 6 months once you get a handle on 3d printing.
 
Tell me more....

I will cavate that I'm not an apple guy buy my wife does have an iPhone, how new does it need to be?
Adam wasn’t an apple guy either but his wife, Eve was. We all know how that worked out! 🤣😂🤣
 
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I kinda want to dip my toes in the 3d printing world. Any opinions on a Bambu A1 vs PS1 as I see both of those frequently recommended for hobbyist level printing. Both are on sale right now through black friday but I'm not sure what the higher end PS1 offers that I might wish I had if I go with the A1?

How needed is an AMS system?
I have the A1 with the AMS and its my second printer. My prints cone out better that most of my friends with more expensive printers. The AMS is more convenience than anything. Be sure to set your settings right or you can get a lot of waste with AMS but they look good. Here's a ghost face my son wanted
 

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The Pursa, Bondtech partnership is going to be pretty awesome. Pursa is working their way back to the top.


 
I have the A1 with the AMS and its my second printer. My prints cone out better that most of my friends with more expensive printers. The AMS is more convenience than anything. Be sure to set your settings right or you can get a lot of waste with AMS but they look good. Here's a ghost face my son wanted
Black and white switches can be tough, those look great!

I kinda want to dip my toes in the 3d printing world. Any opinions on a Bambu A1 vs PS1 as I see both of those frequently recommended for hobbyist level printing. Both are on sale right now through black friday but I'm not sure what the higher end PS1 offers that I might wish I had if I go with the A1?

How needed is an AMS system?
Personally between the two I would go for the P1S because it is core xy and has an enclosed chamber. The core xy offers some speed improvements over the bed slinger style, and the enclosed chamber lets you run materials that require higher temps, like ASA or nylon. The AMS system is neat because it lets you store multiple filaments in the machine and it can switch between them during a single print. This really comes in handy if you want to do figurines, light boxes, keychains, or other multicolor prints. The downside is that the AMS switches each color for every layer, and each color switch requires purging the filament in the extruder chamber, which can add up. The amount of purged filament can exceed the amount of filament in the actual print, and a figurine could have 1000 filament changes. The alternative is designing your assembly to be printed in parts that assemble together, which sometimes requires glue. Even if you were going for only single color, the AMS can switch to the next spool if our current spool runs out which is convenient.
I've done a lot of printing on an Ender 3 and Ender 5 and now have an X1C at work and Creality K2+ at home. The printers and materials have come such a long way.
 
Does anyone have a 3d scanner and be willing to scan something for me?
I have one through my work but my coworker has it for now. I should have it back next month. What are you trying to scan? Might be able to do it the old fashioned way of modeling as best as you can (and 3d printing as many prototypes as you need to get it right).
 
I have one through my work but my coworker has it for now. I should have it back next month. What are you trying to scan? Might be able to do it the old fashioned way of modeling as best as you can (and 3d printing as many prototypes as you need to get it right).
Thats the process that I was doing but wanted a slightly better fit and not having to mess with small tweeks. Another member reached out and helped me out.
 
I just found this post. I have had a 3D printer since May of 2020, Ender 5 Plus, and have been "converting it" to Core-XY with a ZeroGDesigns Mercury One.1

Ever since I got my X1CC in Nov 2022 I have not had the desire to finish my conversion as the Bambu just works. We recently bought a H2D Pro (overpriced but work required that it could shut off wifi and have an ethernet port) and i love it. I will be getting an H2D when I save up enough money. I also have 3 AMS (v1's), and NO you do not need to buy that expensive ass hub to connect more than 1 AMS, I can recommend some much cheaper options for anyone looking.

Anyone looking to get a new printer from Bambu I will only recommend the P2S or H2series now as the nozzle change, and parts availability is significantly better. The X1c and also the P1P/P1S nozzles requiring the removal of 2 screws and 3 jst (or smaller connectors) is a no go. I just had my first major failure after over 3k hours of printing on the X1C and it was because the connector on the TH Extruder interface board for the filament sensor broke due to the excessive heat, vibration, and all the times my fat fingers have been unknowingly pushing on it while I was unplugging connectors to swap nozzles. I had to replace the interface board, I paid the $10 plush shipping, then it friend my Toolhead board, and I got Bambu to provide that board under warranty for me, a week later I got that board and the printer was still down because Bambu discontinued my lidar sensor but again, they provided the replacement under warranty and a week and a half later I was up and running again. In total the printer was down for almost a month, and it was during a time that I was prototyping a new design at work and we didn't have a printer yet so I was behind the 8 ball there for sure.

If anyone has any issues please let me know I have a LOT of troubleshooting skills that I have developed while tinkering with that E5plus for 3 years and I also had an Ender 3 Max for a while. I have helped a lot of co-workers get into 3d printing and routinely teach them how to do things they didn't know how to do previously. I am working on my CAD skills, and have designed a bunch of custom stuff for work that will. I have made some random stuff for hobbies too. I love all the work people have been doing in here.

@OmahaBravo if you're still struggling with ASA let me know. I have a great ASA profile. I also have an amazing TPU profile that I got from the one and only Chris Teal (if you're into FPV drones you'll know his parts are butter! Something that a lot of people don't realize is the stock Bambu profiles prioritize speed over anything else. When it comes to ABS/ASA and some of the higher end filaments, you have to drop you speeds. Not only Acceleration, and movement speeds (I cut them in HALF) but also volumetric flow speeds (which you change in the filament settings page).

Anyone needs anything 3d Printer related don't hesitate to DM me. I will gladly help you.
 
I just found this post. I have had a 3D printer since May of 2020, Ender 5 Plus, and have been "converting it" to Core-XY with a ZeroGDesigns Mercury One.1

Ever since I got my X1CC in Nov 2022 I have not had the desire to finish my conversion as the Bambu just works. We recently bought a H2D Pro (overpriced but work required that it could shut off wifi and have an ethernet port) and i love it. I will be getting an H2D when I save up enough money. I also have 3 AMS (v1's), and NO you do not need to buy that expensive ass hub to connect more than 1 AMS, I can recommend some much cheaper options for anyone looking.

Anyone looking to get a new printer from Bambu I will only recommend the P2S or H2series now as the nozzle change, and parts availability is significantly better. The X1c and also the P1P/P1S nozzles requiring the removal of 2 screws and 3 jst (or smaller connectors) is a no go. I just had my first major failure after over 3k hours of printing on the X1C and it was because the connector on the TH Extruder interface board for the filament sensor broke due to the excessive heat, vibration, and all the times my fat fingers have been unknowingly pushing on it while I was unplugging connectors to swap nozzles. I had to replace the interface board, I paid the $10 plush shipping, then it friend my Toolhead board, and I got Bambu to provide that board under warranty for me, a week later I got that board and the printer was still down because Bambu discontinued my lidar sensor but again, they provided the replacement under warranty and a week and a half later I was up and running again. In total the printer was down for almost a month, and it was during a time that I was prototyping a new design at work and we didn't have a printer yet so I was behind the 8 ball there for sure.

If anyone has any issues please let me know I have a LOT of troubleshooting skills that I have developed while tinkering with that E5plus for 3 years and I also had an Ender 3 Max for a while. I have helped a lot of co-workers get into 3d printing and routinely teach them how to do things they didn't know how to do previously. I am working on my CAD skills, and have designed a bunch of custom stuff for work that will. I have made some random stuff for hobbies too. I love all the work people have been doing in here.

@OmahaBravo if you're still struggling with ASA let me know. I have a great ASA profile. I also have an amazing TPU profile that I got from the one and only Chris Teal (if you're into FPV drones you'll know his parts are butter! Something that a lot of people don't realize is the stock Bambu profiles prioritize speed over anything else. When it comes to ABS/ASA and some of the higher end filaments, you have to drop you speeds. Not only Acceleration, and movement speeds (I cut them in HALF) but also volumetric flow speeds (which you change in the filament settings page).

Anyone needs anything 3d Printer related don't hesitate to DM me. I will gladly help you.
You're awesome, man. Thanks for the offer. I think i have it dialed in enough for what i'm making. I've done exactly what you've stated though, cut every speed in half and take the acceleration down by 80-90%.

I've only ever owned a Bambu X1C after a coworker who was into 3d printing recommended it to me. Its been great. I've actually been eyeing the X1D but i dont have a need for a second printer. If i do, i DEF know who i'm calling :)

One thing i find interesting: i've taken the most recent patches and i've been getting an issue where it'll set the nozzle temp to 140 after bed level calibration and wont change even though itll execute the flow cal and start the print. Wasted enough time i've started checking the gcode each time if i'm not running a saved project.
Happens when i edit the filament profile.
Not sure what is going on but even if i start with a stock filament profile and only edit nozzle and bed temps... itll default the temp in the code. Annoying.
 

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