Tremors and Campers let's talk camping!!

Given you have a good hitch - moving your load around is your main thing to work with at this point. With generator on the tongue of our trailers we have 1,200 - 1,500 lbs. of tongue weight - so well over 10% - if your load in back is too far behind the axels - you will lightend the tongue weight and have more sway issues - so be sure your load is right - being level is good, but may not tell the whole story!
Not much I can do with the SxS loading, KRX1000 fits 4” from the kitchen cabinet/stove. That puts the fronts right over the trailer front axle. SxS front weight is 875#, the rear SxS axle is at 1025#. So only 150# difference in frontward or backwards, I have tried both. The hassle to back it in straight isn’t worth the 150# additional over the trailer axle. SxS is too wide to go any further forward. I travel with 100 gal fresh, so the should counter the 1024# on the ass end.
 
Not much I can do with the SxS loading, KRX1000 fits 4” from the kitchen cabinet/stove. That puts the fronts right over the trailer front axle. SxS front weight is 875#, the rear SxS axle is at 1025#. So only 150# difference in frontward or backwards, I have tried both. The hassle to back it in straight isn’t worth the 150# additional over the trailer axle. SxS is too wide to go any further forward. I travel with 100 gal fresh, so the should counter the 1024# on the ass end.
I have 2 seat Pro R - to wide (78") to get up past the first curbside cabinet that houses the microwave. I have to back it in to get proper loading - I understand it is a bit of a pain to back in - but night and day difference in towing dynamics. Trailer was terrible with it in front first - turned it around and it is rock solid. I think backing in if you stay behind the cabinet will yield great tow results.

I also have a Pro XP 4 seat - 68" wide - so with passenger side wheel right on the wheel well on trailer curbside - I can get driver side front wheel up past microwave with 3-4 fingers of spare room between tire and microwave, so entire car is moved forward 3' +/- past the rear door - once in that far moving it a foot one way or the other make a big difference in towing dynamics.

While the weight front to rear of your car is only 150# - where it is placed may impact that number to a greater degree - if you are on front axel and rear is near back of trailer - that will yield more than 150# of change.

I will post some photos of each loaded later FYI.
 
I wish they would have a better solar / battery set up. I really do like them
I don’t disagree. There’s a HUGE modding community for these and that’s a common upgrade, along with some others that make it more efficient with the power it does use. I bring my generator along to supplement, but am planning to upgrade the the Dometic AC to the RecPro unit so it will run off the inverter.
 
I have 2 seat Pro R - to wide (78") to get up past the first curbside cabinet that houses the microwave. I have to back it in to get proper loading - I understand it is a bit of a pain to back in - but night and day difference in towing dynamics. Trailer was terrible with it in front first - turned it around and it is rock solid. I think backing in if you stay behind the cabinet will yield great tow results.

I also have a Pro XP 4 seat - 68" wide - so with passenger side wheel right on the wheel well on trailer curbside - I can get driver side front wheel up past microwave with 3-4 fingers of spare room between tire and microwave, so entire car is moved forward 3' +/- past the rear door - once in that far moving it a foot one way or the other make a big difference in towing dynamics.

While the weight front to rear of your car is only 150# - where it is placed may impact that number to a greater degree - if you are on front axel and rear is near back of trailer - that will yield more than 150# of change.

I will post some photos of each loaded later FYI.
Here are the photos with Pro XP 4 loaded - note couch's remain in trailer.

ATC 2419 -Loaded - XP Pro 4 - 15x7 methods - 5-2 Offset - 3.jpg


ATC 2419 -Loaded - XP Pro 4 - 15x7 methods - 5-2 Offset - 4.jpgATC 2419 -Loaded - XP Pro 4 - 15x7 methods - 5-2 Offset - 3.jpgATC 2419 -Loaded - XP Pro 4 - 15x7 methods - 5-2 Offset - 2.jpgATC 2419 -Loaded - XP Pro 4 - 15x7 methods - 5-2 Offset - 1.jpgATC 2419 -Loaded - XP Pro 4 - 15x7 methods - 5-2 Offset.jpg

Pro R - backwards - door closes with about 2" to spare! rear wheel is about 2" from the curbside cabinet that holds microwave and the gas burners. Note couches can remain in, but are within an 1" on either side - Pro R is wide!
Pro R - In Trailer.jpg
 
Looks like you have a 2419 - if so I have the same trailer - I use a Weigh Safe weight distribution hitch which has built in sway control - it pretty much solved the sway problem and made it far more stable in high winds. I have also found the trailer to be very sensitive to proper loading - so moving my RZR forward or back a foot makes a huge difference in how it tows, so playing with your load can be important.

If you get a WD hitch one thing you should note is the ATC Aluminum beams up front are 8" and most steel trailers are 6" - so when you get a weight distribution hitch the bolt on metal clamps that go on the trailer side of the frame are all too short to bolt above and below the frame. Option 1 is to drill through your frame - ATC told me if you do it will void your frame warranty. So I had some plates made that were 2" longer than what Weigh Safe sent me that go on either side, so you can bolt them above and below the frame and not impact the warranty.

Lots of good options out there, but you will find the higher end WD hitch's with sway control built in work best. Curt on the lower cost end, weigh safe, Equalizer and EZ Lift on the higher end! GLWD

Here is a good comparison video on various options.

Link
Great comments on WD/sway control hitches. Love all the Weigh Safe hitch products with Tongue weight gauge built in.

Since tongue weight/gross trailer weight loaded is such a critical ratio, I think when it comes to toy haulers it is mandatory that you have some way of knowing actual tongue weight when loading various equipment in the toy hauler. To me, the Weigh Safe hitches are the best option at this time. You can move a machine in the cargo hold of a toy hauler just a few inches forward or back and completely change the trailers towing characteristics. Knowing where you are each time to load the trailer is critical and the Weigh Safe hitch gives you that information well before you hit the road. If you have your trailer loaded correctly, the sway control feature really won't have much work to do while traveling.
 
Great comments on WD/sway control hitches. Love all the Weigh Safe hitch products with Tongue weight gauge built in.

Since tongue weight/gross trailer weight loaded is such a critical ratio, I think when it comes to toy haulers it is mandatory that you have some way of knowing actual tongue weight when loading various equipment in the toy hauler. To me, the Weigh Safe hitches are the best option at this time. You can move a machine in the cargo hold of a toy hauler just a few inches forward or back and completely change the trailers towing characteristics. Knowing where you are each time to load the trailer is critical and the Weigh Safe hitch gives you that information well before you hit the road. If you have your trailer loaded correctly, the sway control feature really won't have much work to do while traveling.
This is worth a fast forward to the number 2 and 1 spots ;)

 
Here are the photos with Pro XP 4 loaded - note couch's remain in trailer.

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Pro R - backwards - door closes with about 2" to spare! rear wheel is about 2" from the curbside cabinet that holds microwave and the gas burners. Note couches can remain in, but are within an 1" on either side - Pro R is wide!
View attachment 123973
Only way I’m getting past the microwave is removing the dinette.
On a different note, have you found a solution for the refrigerator door opening into the bathroom doorknob?
Need to find a direct replacement ressesed knob.
 
I don’t disagree. There’s a HUGE modding community for these and that’s a common upgrade, along with some others that make it more efficient with the power it does use. I bring my generator along to supplement, but am planning to upgrade the the Dometic AC to the RecPro unit so it will run off the inverter.
We ended up buying a Winnebago Flex with the Truma system and on-demand water heater. It has two 190watt panels on the roof and I can get four days out of it before I need to plug in again. I could probably to better but there are a ton of trees in the Shenandoah Forest. LOL. Hard to find a sunny spot some times. The water tank actually is a bigger problem than the electrics. I am really impressed with the Truma AC, water heater, and heater. Not so much with Winnebago. That is a one and done.
 
Traded in our Jayco 264 BHOK for this KZ Durango 286BHS last weekend. Unloaded it weighs 8500 lbs. Tows really easy with the 7.3 gasser but I am skeptical of the HiSpec Oracle tires that came with it.

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Just bought a ATC 3619 - 5th wheel toybox - looking at two options for hitch - if you are using either let me know your thoughts:

1. Anderson Ultimate Connection - Pro's lightest 5th wheel hitch for bed- offset hitch for better turning radius. Con's hitch frame in bed
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2. Reese Goosebox 20k rated - Pro's conversion to gooseneck - improved ride, nothinging in the bed - Con's - more adjustment required before each tow
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Just bought a ATC 3619 - 5th wheel toybox - looking at two options for hitch - if you are using either let me know your thoughts:

1. Anderson Ultimate Connection - Pro's lightest 5th wheel hitch for bed- offset hitch for better turning radius. Con's hitch frame in bed


2. Reese Goosebox 20k rated - Pro's conversion to gooseneck - improved ride, nothinging in the bed - Con's - more adjustment required before each tow

I'm using the Goosebox and like it a lot. The only downsides to me are hooking up the chains in the bed and not being able to see when to stop backing up with my tonneau cover. I slither in like a snake from the tailgate to hook up the chains but thankfully my apelike wingspan doesn't make it too bad. My tonneau cover covers the ball in the camera so it takes a little longer to double-check when I am in the right spot.

I really wanted the Anderson for convenience based on its features and my buddy's recommendation but seeing some of them collapse worried me. Yes, it's few and far between but I just saw another new case this last week with it.
 
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I'm using the Goosebox and like it a lot. The only downsides to me are hooking up the chains in the bed and not being able to see when to stop backing up with my tonneau cover. I slither in like a snake from the tailgate to hook up the chains but thankfully my apelike wingspan doesn't make it too bad. My tonneau cover covers the ball so it takes a little longer to double-check when I am in the right spot.

I really wanted the Anderson for convenience based on its features and my buddy's recommendation but seeing some of them collapse worried me. Yes, it's few and far between but I just saw another new case this last week with it.
That is good information I had not heard that some Anderson were collapsing - light duty - I was wondering about that when looking at it, versus a typical 5th wheel hitch - tht is a risk!

Tip for you on your safety chains - was watching video last night of a full time RV guy and he reversed his safety changes - put the U shackels on the pucks and had the hooks on the other end - see video below - that way he lays them out before he backs trailer into bed and then they are right there to grab and hook onto at the hitch end. His tips start at 7:18 of video - safety chain tip starts at 8:37 of video - really a good idea!

Link:
 
Off for a weekend at the Frio River in Texas. Been going over the 4th for 6-7 years, but usually rent a cabin. Staying at a park this year.

Spent some time in the Ozarks in April, heading to Colorado Springs in August then Baja in December. Sometimes I still wonder if we use the trailer enough to keep it. Was planning for a long year + sabbatical but my contract job has turned into a permanent job, so the sabbatical may be a ways off now.
 

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Con's - more adjustment required before each tow
I don't have a 5er but am curious as to what type of adjustment has to be done for each tow? The goosebox seems like the way to go to me, but I don't know what I don't know :unsure:
 
I don't have a 5er but am curious as to what type of adjustment has to be done for each tow? The goosebox seems like the way to go to me, but I don't know what I don't know :unsure:

He's talking about the airbag on the Goosebox specifically I believe. I only adjust the air if needing to top it off if it's been a while or if the temperature has changed much. I have an onboard air compressor and am able to reach the air chuck by leaning over the wheel well easily enough. Someone who is shorter may have to climb the tire.

With the Gen Y Goosebox alternative there is no airbag and no adjustment is needed. My B&W slider did not need adjustment when using it either.
 
That is good information I had not heard that some Anderson were collapsing - light duty - I was wondering about that when looking at it, versus a typical 5th wheel hitch - tht is a risk!

Tip for you on your safety chains - was watching video last night of a full time RV guy and he reversed his safety changes - put the U shackels on the pucks and had the hooks on the other end - see video below - that way he lays them out before he backs trailer into bed and then they are right there to grab and hook onto at the hitch end. His tips start at 7:18 of video - safety chain tip starts at 8:37 of video - really a good idea!

Link:
Thanks!
 
Just bought a ATC 3619 - 5th wheel toybox - looking at two options for hitch - if you are using either let me know your thoughts:

1. Anderson Ultimate Connection - Pro's lightest 5th wheel hitch for bed- offset hitch for better turning radius. Con's hitch frame in bed
View attachment 124079

2. Reese Goosebox 20k rated - Pro's conversion to gooseneck - improved ride, nothinging in the bed - Con's - more adjustment required before each tow
View attachment 124080
I opted for the Pull Rite 20k hitch. 16k would have worked fine, but the dealer had this in stock.

Anderson failure is a thing. I considered it for a quick second before doing a YouTube search for failures and said NOPE.
 
I opted for the Pull Rite 20k hitch. 16k would have worked fine, but the dealer had this in stock.

Anderson failure is a thing. I considered it for a quick second before doing a YouTube search for failures and said NOPE.
Went with Reese Gen III 20k Goosebox and GenY 5" offset ball bracket that works with Ford OEM puck system and will give me a bit better turning radius!

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Should pick up or have delivered later in July - looking forward to it!
 
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