Project Black Cherry

[MCRTREMOR]

Carli Decals

9" on Fabricated Radius Arm, 2.75" On Tower. 4" On TSB Arm, Logo Decal on Shock Reservoir

shop.carlisuspension.com

I posted all vector files there! Download and send to your local decal shop!

I can post the King

Carli Decals

9" on Fabricated Radius Arm, 2.75" On Tower. 4" On TSB Arm, Logo Decal on Shock Reservoir

shop.carlisuspension.com

I posted all vector files there! Download and send to your local decal shop!

I can post the King Vector, too, if you'd like!

Are these vector files still around? I just got my E-venture installed, and I want to change up the decals to all red.

 

[BLACKCHERRY]

Are these vector files still around? I just got my E-venture installed, and I want to change up the decals to all red.

They are - I'll need to repost them after re-doing the website!

 

[BLACKCHERRY]

Ok, the LONG anticipated install finally happened and the Super Duty is now APEX Steering Equipped. I used the Synergy Toe brackets to check the factory alignment and recorded the measurement. If you're going to go this route, make SURE you grab some 14mm-1.5 flange nuts to secure the toe-plates to the factory studs instead of an aftermarket cone-style lug. Also, pro-tip, buy two identical high end tape measures. You'd be surprised how much variance you can have between brands.

The Factory alignment was impressive... Normally, you'll see toe-in of 1/8" or so which i deem excessive on a straight axle truck. This truck was about 1/32" toe in. Pretty much perfect. I was reading 73.25" rear and BARELY discernibly under that in the front. I recorded these measurements and setup the APEX.

I coated the internal threads of the main tubes with a ton of anti-seize and assembled the linkage. Removing the old steering was a breeze. If you're unfamiliar with the process, Remove the steering stabilizer, remove cotter pins from tie-rod ends, loosen the nuts until they're hand tight, smack the joint with a BFH until the taper unseats, remove the nuts, remove the steering.

Laying the factory linkage next to the APEX shows the shear difference in BEEF. The apex linkage must weight 5x the amount. The joints are oversized compared to the factory and the threads are physically larger. The interface to the massive main tube is MUCH stronger as it's not a cheap, sheet-metal adjuster.

Icing on the cake, APEX has engineered more misalignment into the tie-rod ends. This is huge for people with Carli 5.5" Kits. At full droop, the factory linkage is maxed. If your ends aren't perfectly parallel, you can actually see a bend in drag link from it binding. With the additional range of motion of the APEX, this is a non-issue. At full droop of my 5.5" E-Venture, i could grab and roll the drag link with no binding of the joints.

I then threw the linkage on and snugged the tie-rod end nuts so i could set the toe.

Once that was done, i torqued the tie-rod ends and used red loctite and tightened the jam nuts to about 300lb/ft to secure them. APEX provides "Ninja" washers to keep the jam nuts from backing off. Frankly, i think these are provided to make the linkage "idiot proof" as so many people screw up jam-nuts. I know how to torque them and loctite them - this method has never failed me so i threw the ninja washers in the trash.

With the Tie-Rod torqued and jam nuts set, i triple checked the toe and all was well. I then adjusted the drag link making sure, with the truck keyed on, i could cycle the new steering lock to lock (until the knuckles hit the steering stops on both sides). All was well so i installed my Carli high and low mount steering stabilizers. APEX provided me a clamp for the lower that fit perfectly. The 1/2"-13 thread pitch of the Carli-Specific clamp fit our high-misalignment stud and made for a very simple install.

They engineered the stabilizer mount for the upper position into the drag-link tie-rod end. Our saddle for the Carli high mount fit perfect but, the pad being so thick, we had to go 1/4" longer on the hardware to grab the nyloc (Carli provides a 2.5" bolt, i needed a 2.75").

Last, i set the truck on the ground, straightened the steering wheel and locked the drag-link jam nuts down. A trick of the trade: to ensure maximum roll/misalignment and no binding of the linkage, always max both tie-rods at both ends in the direction you're torquing the linkage. As these jam nuts torqued by pushing the wrench toward the front of the vehicle, i would max both tie-rods to the rear of the vehicle when torquing the nuts, then roll the linkage forward to ensure it had full range of motion.

Last, double checked all torque specs, inserted cotter pins, threaded in zerk fittings, greased all tie-rod ends, and recharged my Carli Stabilizers to 200psi each.

My impressions - it's a really nice kit. It went together without a hitch, adjusted easy, runs an oversized OEM style ball joint/tie-rod instead of an exposed heim, the linkage is forged for strength, the geometry is built into the ends instead of the tubes so it doesn't flop under load, it's greasable and all ends are replaceable without replacing the main tubes, it has more misalignment that the factory linkage making it better for lifted applications and performance suspensions, and it has held up to the abuse of my long-travel Ram with 40" tires and hydro assist so i don't feel I'll have an issue here!

As I've received a ton of questions on it, i thought I'd post about it.

 

[Vecman]

And… now I won’t be tackling this job on my own. Definitely will have a shop do it for me. Thanks @BLACKCHERRY! Great write up!

 

[BLACKCHERRY]

And… now I won’t be tackling this job on my own. Definitely will have a shop do it for me. Thanks @BLACKCHERRY! Great write up!

If you're in AZ - hit up SDHQ; they're about the only shop around i would trust to install it.

 

[Vecman]

Yeah, it’s now on my list. If I call them now, I’m sure I’ll be able to get in around September. Haha

 

[oops]

Super useful! I had the APEX kit installed on my truck last week. First time my local shop installed one. They didn’t cite any problems. Eager to go outside and compare details now.

 

[oops]

Yeah, it’s now on my list. If I call them now, I’m sure I’ll be able to get in around September. Haha

I ordered mine from CJC and it arrived within 3 days.

 

[Vecman]

I ordered mine from CJC and it arrived within 3 days.

Good to know. I am more concerned about getting in with SDHQ - they are usually booked out quite far.

 

[Gus]

Ok, the LONG anticipated install finally happened and the Super Duty is now APEX Steering Equipped. I used the Synergy Toe brackets to check the factory alignment and recorded the measurement. If you're going to go this route, make SURE you grab some 14mm-1.5 flange nuts to secure the toe-plates to the factory studs instead of an aftermarket cone-style lug. Also, pro-tip, buy two identical high end tape measures. You'd be surprised how much variance you can have between brands.

View attachment 110719

View attachment 110720

The Factory alignment was impressive... Normally, you'll see toe-in of 1/8" or so which i deem excessive on a straight axle truck. This truck was about 1/32" toe in. Pretty much perfect. I was reading 73.25" rear and BARELY discernibly under that in the front. I recorded these measurements and setup the APEX.

View attachment 110721

View attachment 110722

View attachment 110723

I coated the internal threads of the main tubes with a ton of anti-seize and assembled the linkage. Removing the old steering was a breeze. If you're unfamiliar with the process, Remove the steering stabilizer, remove cotter pins from tie-rod ends, loosen the nuts until they're hand tight, smack the joint with a BFH until the taper unseats, remove the nuts, remove the steering.

Laying the factory linkage next to the APEX shows the shear difference in BEEF. The apex linkage must weight 5x the amount. The joints are oversized compared to the factory and the threads are physically larger. The interface to the massive main tube is MUCH stronger as it's not a cheap, sheet-metal adjuster.

View attachment 110724

Icing on the cake, APEX has engineered more misalignment into the tie-rod ends. This is huge for people with Carli 5.5" Kits. At full droop, the factory linkage is maxed. If your ends aren't perfectly parallel, you can actually see a bend in drag link from it binding. With the additional range of motion of the APEX, this is a non-issue. At full droop of my 5.5" E-Venture, i could grab and roll the drag link with no binding of the joints.

View attachment 110725

View attachment 110726

I then threw the linkage on and snugged the tie-rod end nuts so i could set the toe.

View attachment 110727

Once that was done, i torqued the tie-rod ends and used red loctite and tightened the jam nuts to about 300lb/ft to secure them. APEX provides "Ninja" washers to keep the jam nuts from backing off. Frankly, i think these are provided to make the linkage "idiot proof" as so many people screw up jam-nuts. I know how to torque them and loctite them - this method has never failed me so i threw the ninja washers in the trash.

View attachment 110728

With the Tie-Rod torqued and jam nuts set, i triple checked the toe and all was well. I then adjusted the drag link making sure, with the truck keyed on, i could cycle the new steering lock to lock (until the knuckles hit the steering stops on both sides). All was well so i installed my Carli high and low mount steering stabilizers. APEX provided me a clamp for the lower that fit perfectly. The 1/2"-13 thread pitch of the Carli-Specific clamp fit our high-misalignment stud and made for a very simple install.

View attachment 110729

They engineered the stabilizer mount for the upper position into the drag-link tie-rod end. Our saddle for the Carli high mount fit perfect but, the pad being so thick, we had to go 1/4" longer on the hardware to grab the nyloc (Carli provides a 2.5" bolt, i needed a 2.75").

View attachment 110730
View attachment 110731

Last, i set the truck on the ground, straightened the steering wheel and locked the drag-link jam nuts down. A trick of the trade: to ensure maximum roll/misalignment and no binding of the linkage, always max both tie-rods at both ends in the direction you're torquing the linkage. As these jam nuts torqued by pushing the wrench toward the front of the vehicle, i would max both tie-rods to the rear of the vehicle when torquing the nuts, then roll the linkage forward to ensure it had full range of motion.

Last, double checked all torque specs, inserted cotter pins, threaded in zerk fittings, greased all tie-rod ends, and recharged my Carli Stabilizers to 200psi each.

View attachment 110732

My impressions - it's a really nice kit. It went together without a hitch, adjusted easy, runs an oversized OEM style ball joint/tie-rod instead of an exposed heim, the linkage is forged for strength, the geometry is built into the ends instead of the tubes so it doesn't flop under load, it's greasable and all ends are replaceable without replacing the main tubes, it has more misalignment that the factory linkage making it better for lifted applications and performance suspensions, and it has held up to the abuse of my long-travel Ram with 40" tires and hydro assist so i don't feel I'll have an issue here!

As I've received a ton of questions on it, i thought I'd post about it.

Excellent write up have been wondering how this steering upgrade is

Does it make a noticeable steering difference?

 

[Gus]

If you're in AZ - hit up SDHQ; they're about the only shop around i would trust to install it.

Driving out to California in a couple months and going to Palmdale, wonder if we could set up a detour to CJC and have them install it

 

[Nick@ApolloOptics]

That APEX stuff is badass. We just picked them up as a dealer last month and are working to get their full catalog on our site.

I've got the drag link sitting here waiting for my truck. Once they revise the tie rod to fit with the Icon Dual Steering Stabilizers, we'll be adding that to our shop truck as well.

 

[BLACKCHERRY]

Excellent write up have been wondering how this steering upgrade is

Does it make a noticeable steering difference?

My factory steering wasn't worn out so i can't say i felt a difference but it's certainly more confidence inspiring that i won't be left somewhere with failed steering.

 

[Tremor_Duty_6.7]

Recently installed APEX as well. I’ve got the Carli pintop 5.5 kit was starting to get death wobble episodes. Tie rods were worn

Much noticeable improvement in steering. Ditto everything OP says in terms of quality of components.

Also threw on Dyna Trac ball joints. Awesome quality wise too.

My factory steering wasn't worn out so i can't say i felt a difference but it's certainly more confidence inspiring that i won't be left somewhere with failed steering.

 

[Billy Bob]

I have the apex kit in my truck bed. Was also considering the Dyna Trac ball joints. Could you confirm what year tremor and the Dyna Trac part number used?

Also , does anybody have a recommendation for an install shop in Houston for the Apex and ball joints ?

 

[BLACKCHERRY]

Recently installed APEX as well. I’ve got the Carli pintop 5.5 kit was starting to get death wobble episodes. Tie rods were worn

Much noticeable improvement in steering. Ditto everything OP says in terms of quality of components.

Also threw on Dyna Trac ball joints. Awesome quality wise too.


View attachment 110785View attachment 110786

Was this picture before the "ninja" washers were locked down or is that how it currently sits?

 

[BLACKCHERRY]

I have the apex kit in my truck bed. Was also considering the Dyna Trac ball joints. Could you confirm what year tremor and the Dyna Trac part number used?

Also , does anybody have a recommendation for an install shop in Houston for the Apex and ball joints ?

Woolands Performance and Suspension - That's our go-to shop in Houston.

 

[Tx-Tremor6.7]

I have the apex kit in my truck bed. Was also considering the Dyna Trac ball joints. Could you confirm what year tremor and the Dyna Trac part number used?

Also , does anybody have a recommendation for an install shop in Houston for the Apex and ball joints ?

I was going to say call Dana at WPS, as well. They did my whole build two years ago and they have an alignment machine for the suspension work.

WPS

 

[Tremor_Duty_6.7]

Was this picture before the "ninja" washers were locked down or is that how it currently sits?

Before - never used these prior to this. I wasn’t really sold on them, seemed a little gimmicky but nothing moving so far

will have to see how the components hold up off road but impressed so far and didn’t have any issues merging with the Carli kit. Wish I had your write up before the install, great job on the details and walking through the process!

 

[Tremor_Duty_6.7]

I have the apex kit in my truck bed. Was also considering the Dyna Trac ball joints. Could you confirm what year tremor and the Dyna Trac part number used?

Also , does anybody have a recommendation for an install shop in Houston for the Apex and ball joints ?

2020 F250 Tremor

purchased from CJC and they got it to me within 2 days

Dynatrac 1999-Current Ford F250/F350 Super Duty ProSteer Ball Joints

Dynatrac Ford Super Duty Dana 60 ProSteer Ball Joints for 1999-2019 Trucks

www.cjcoffroad.com

FORD-DA60-2X3050-A

Packaging lists 1999-2019. Called cjc to confirm and they said fits up to current year models - I'd guess at least up to 2022