OEM Rear Swaybar Install

so all you that have installed this oem swaybar, how has it effected your ride quality empty? I've considered adding this to my 2024 tremor F350 HO Diesel. Recently towed my snowmobile trailer helping my daughter move. I would guess the trailer and cargo was only around 6k lbs. I was surprised it felt more squierrely towing it than my 2022 Toyota Tundra with airbags did. I have airbags for the superduty, just haven't installed yet.
Interested in this as well.....
 
so all you that have installed this oem swaybar, how has it effected your ride quality empty? I've considered adding this to my 2024 tremor F350 HO Diesel. Recently towed my snowmobile trailer helping my daughter move. I would guess the trailer and cargo was only around 6k lbs. I was surprised it felt more squierrely towing it than my 2022 Toyota Tundra with airbags did. I have airbags for the superduty, just haven't installed yet.
I don't think a swaybar is going to help your situation. They are not designed to help trailer sway, which is caused by poor weight distribution. What you need is more tongue weight. I'm not sure your trailer setup but if it is a flat bed just move the snowmobile closer to the front and get the tongue weight over 12% of total loaded trailer weight.

A swaybar helps with body roll. That is a major factor for a bed camper, which has a high CG and rocks side to side, not a trailer. I had a sway bar on my last F350 and removed it because it just made the unladen ride even more unbearable. It had zero effect on the ride while towing. When you think about it, the tongue weight is a point load across the rear suspension and it really has zero ability to apply different pressure to the left and right side of the rear axle.

Another way to look at it is a rear sway bar creates oversteer. Do you really want more oversteer on your RWD truck?
 
I disagree with more tongue weight. These trucks dont seem to like tongue weight, it squats the rear, lifts the front, and messes up the caster.
 
I don't think a swaybar is going to help your situation. They are not designed to help trailer sway, which is caused by poor weight distribution. What you need is more tongue weight. I'm not sure your trailer setup but if it is a flat bed just move the snowmobile closer to the front and get the tongue weight over 12% of total loaded trailer weight.

A swaybar helps with body roll. That is a major factor for a bed camper, which has a high CG and rocks side to side, not a trailer. I had a sway bar on my last F350 and removed it because it just made the unladen ride even more unbearable. It had zero effect on the ride while towing. When you think about it, the tongue weight is a point load across the rear suspension and it really has zero ability to apply different pressure to the left and right side of the rear axle.

Another way to look at it is a rear sway bar creates oversteer. Do you really want more oversteer on your RWD truck?
Good feedback. I guess I thought maybe the loaded trailer could cause the truck to sway/body roll making it feel unstable. I had the majority of the weight over the two axles when towing the snowmobile trailer but there was some weight up on the tongue. I'm just considering all variables. I towed the exact trailer with my 1/2 ton tundra which had airbags and a rear swaybar and it felt more stable. It's hard to describe. The F350 doesn't feel like it's getting pushed around like the tundra did, but it feels less planted. If that makes any sense.
 
Good feedback. I guess I thought maybe the loaded trailer could cause the truck to sway/body roll making it feel unstable. I had the majority of the weight over the two axles when towing the snowmobile trailer but there was some weight up on the tongue. I'm just considering all variables. I towed the exact trailer with my 1/2 ton tundra which had airbags and a rear swaybar and it felt more stable. It's hard to describe. The F350 doesn't feel like it's getting pushed around like the tundra did, but it feels less planted. If that makes any sense.

I'll second a little of what @MrFancypants said. With a bumper pull trailer in that weight range, a rear swaybar and/or airbags is going to do very little if you are getting trailer sway. If it was a 5th or bed camper then that's when you'd benefit from them, with more weight over the bed.

I'll ask - are you actually getting trailer sway or does it just feel unsteady? It makes a difference. If it's just unsteady feeling in the truck, then I'd double check things like tire, alignment, tire pressure, is the truck lifted or leveled? The stock duratracs are known to be a bit squirmy by nature. The one other thing that comes to mind is wind. An enclosed trailers catch a lot of wind.

I spent last summer towing a 14k actual weight equipment trailer around. I had zero issues and truck was rock solid pulling it. Not sure the exact tongue weight, but was getting about 3" of squat on the rear which made my truck is perfectly level. And I had the weight centered just slightly in front of the trailer axles.
 
I'll second a little of what @MrFancypants said. With a bumper pull trailer in that weight range, a rear swaybar and/or airbags is going to do very little if you are getting trailer sway. If it was a 5th or bed camper then that's when you'd benefit from them, with more weight over the bed.

I'll ask - are you actually getting trailer sway or does it just feel unsteady? It makes a difference. If it's just unsteady feeling in the truck, then I'd double check things like tire, alignment, tire pressure, is the truck lifted or leveled? The stock duratracs are known to be a bit squirmy by nature. The one other thing that comes to mind is wind. An enclosed trailers catch a lot of wind.

I spent last summer towing a 14k actual weight equipment trailer around. I had zero issues and truck was rock solid pulling it. Not sure the exact tongue weight, but was getting about 3" of squat on the rear which made my truck is perfectly level. And I had the weight centered just slightly in front of the trailer axles.
thanks for the feedback. I would say it was more squirrely than swaying. Seems odd the duratracs would be like that, but I've only owned one set on a smaller truck years ago. They were terrible in the snow so I got rid of them. My Tremor is completely stock. 2024 new in Dec. Not lift or level kit or anything like that. just passed 5k miles on the odo. Hate to have to buy new tires already, but maybe I'll have to if that's the cause.
 
thanks for the feedback. I would say it was more squirrely than swaying. Seems odd the duratracs would be like that, but I've only owned one set on a smaller truck years ago. They were terrible in the snow so I got rid of them. My Tremor is completely stock. New in Dec. Not lift or level kit or anything like that. just passed 5k miles on the odo.
Tremor tire are much larger than tundra tires. That might be part of it.
I run my rears at 60psi for daily and bump them to 80psi when towing. Makes the tires stiffer. And yes the brand new duratracs are know to be squirmy when new, they break in and get better after a while is what most report. There are several threads on here about that.
 
Tremor tire are much larger than tundra tires. That might be part of it.
I run my rears at 60psi for daily and bump them to 80psi when towing. Makes the tires stiffer. And yes the brand new duratracs are know to be squirmy when new, they break in and get better after a while is what most report. There are several threads on here about that.
My tundra was actually lifted and had 35s on it, so same size tires - e rated BFG ko2. It was also a trd pro so softer shocks. I don't miss the tundra, they don't build them like they used to. I'll double check how I have my trailer loaded next time and maybe try some different tires if it doesn't get better. Thanks
 
thanks for the feedback. I would say it was more squirrely than swaying. Seems odd the duratracs would be like that, but I've only owned one set on a smaller truck years ago. They were terrible in the snow so I got rid of them. My Tremor is completely stock. 2024 new in Dec. Not lift or level kit or anything like that. just passed 5k miles on the odo. Hate to have to buy new tires already, but maybe I'll have to if that's the cause.
Squirrelly is definitely not the same thing as swaying and even more reason not to bother with a swaybar. Given the small trailer I think it is highly unlikely that you have too much tongue weight for a stock F350. It doesn't sound like you are porpoising, which is more of a 1/2 ton problem. I would definitely rule out your tires first and get a free alignment check to confirm your caster and toe are within spec. Both can cause light steering.
 
Did you by any chance track down the torque specs for these bolts?

Used my standard method - tighten them until they strip, then back them off a quarter turn.

But seriously. No, I didn't have or look up any torque specs.
I work on enough things, that most of the time I just tighten non critical things by feel.
Plus everything in MN rusts solid within a year.
So I'm far more worried about getting it loose, than it coming loose.
 
from post #20 torqued bolts to 25ft/lbs - been over a year now nothing has fallen off yet :ROFLMAO:
Perfect! 50 lb ft it is LOL. In all seriousness thanks for the replies everyone. Looking forward to seeing the difference in towing a FW with this.
 
Has anyone tried to install the sway bar on a truck that has a Torklift Superhitch installed? Any conflicts? I have a 22 gas tremor is that matters.
 
Over coffee this AM found this video for OEM rear sway bar install
for your reference, the end links are connected to plate which is installed on the outside of the frame.
Hope looking at video will help answer your question
 
Has anyone tried to install the sway bar on a truck that has a Torklift Superhitch installed? Any conflicts? I have a 22 gas tremor is that matters.

I've got both the superhitch and oem rear swaybar. Zero conflicts between them.
Swaybar is mostly forward of the axle. Superhitch is behind the axle.

PXL_20240613_214443669.webp
 
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Since I finally got my truck back from the dealer, I decided it was time to install the OEM rear swaybar. Install was very straight forward.
Here's the parts list for anyone else who wants them. 1 of the parts has an updated part #. Current as of June 2023.


Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
HC3Z-5A772-A​
Stabilizer Bar​
$90.85​
1​
$90.85​
7C3Z-5486-B​
Stabilizer Bar Bracket​
$15.26​
2​
$30.52​
HC3Z-5K484-A​
Link​
$29.59​
2​
$59.18​
HC3Z-5L499-A​
Mounting Bracket​
$25.28​
2​
$50.56​
W520214-S440​
Stabilizer Link Nut​
$0.79​
4​
$3.16​
W717462-S439​
Skid Plate Nut​
$3.14​
4​
$12.56​
W500634-S442 (old # W500634-S309)​
Mnfd W/Converter Bolt​
$1.73​
4​
$6.92​
W500644-S439​
Cross-Member Bolt​
$1.73​
4​
$6.92​

Subtotal: $260.67​


View attachment 123752


The only difficult part was cleaning out the very rusted thread holes on the rear axle.
That took almost an 1hr to chase the threads.
We're not allowed to have nice things in MN.


View attachment 123753
Hoping someone can confirm for me here. For the quantity of items, W717462-S439 for example, do I need four total bolts, or four packs of four? Looking online at Tasca to order it and there are four per pack. I just ordered some Timbrens and going to add this as well to bolster my rear suspension and help eliminate sway with my camper in.
 
Hoping someone can confirm for me here. For the quantity of items, W717462-S439 for example, do I need four total bolts, or four packs of four? Looking online at Tasca to order it and there are four per pack. I just ordered some Timbrens and going to add this as well to bolster my rear suspension and help eliminate sway with my camper in.
Quantities listed are total. So you only need 4 pieces total. If tasca is selling a pack of 4, then you need 1 pack.
Which is weird because I bought my stuff from tasca and it was all sold individual.
 
Quantities listed are total. So you only need 4 pieces total. If tasca is selling a pack of 4, then you need 1 pack.
Which is weird because I bought my stuff from tasca and it was all sold individual.
Yeah thought it was interesting. Almost checked out but felt like the hardware was expensive. Here is what it is showing right now.

Image 5-16-26 at 3.34 PM.webp
 
My tundra was actually lifted and had 35s on it, so same size tires - e rated BFG ko2. It was also a trd pro so softer shocks. I don't miss the tundra, they don't build them like they used to. I'll double check how I have my trailer loaded next time and maybe try some different tires if it doesn't get better. Thanks
That sure is a good-looking Iron Pig in that signature. @Residualboulders
 
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