Drivers door handle swap

For me, it is because of the pictures below. I was sitting in a client's boardroom yesterday in San Antonio doing a sales presentation and right outside the window my truck alarm went off. I grabbed my FOB out of my pocket and looked at the truck to turn off the alarm,. and saw someone in my truck. They broke the key lock and destroyed the lock on my Console Vault (Console Vault customer service is awesome - free replacement already on the way - going keyed instead off combo due to much harder to grab with channel locks). I am eliminating one way or another that key cylinder so it is harder to get in the truck.

The whole thing took less than 30 second from alarm going off, to back in the getaway car.

EdView attachment 59787View attachment 59788View attachment 59789View attachment 59790
My understanding was the key hole is what they look for to know they can do this. By hiding it, I'm assuming I am avoiding risk as they will assume I did the swap.
 
When they see the keyless touch pads, they know the key lock cylinder should be there too and they do it with the door handle pulled out, not through the little hole. It was both fascinating and maddening to watch how quick and easy it was on the security video.

I am probably just asking for a smashed window next time, but you gotta try, right?

Ed
 
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Probably been asked before but can the lock cylinder not be removed and then come up with some kind of plug for the hole in the door handle?
 
For me, it is because of the pictures below. I was sitting in a client's boardroom yesterday in San Antonio doing a sales presentation and right outside the window my truck alarm went off. I grabbed my FOB out of my pocket and looked at the truck to turn off the alarm,. and saw someone in my truck. They broke the key lock and destroyed the lock on my Console Vault (Console Vault customer service is awesome - free replacement already on the way - going keyed instead off combo due to much harder to grab with channel locks). I am eliminating one way or another that key cylinder so it is harder to get in the truck.

The whole thing took less than 30 second from alarm going off, to back in the getaway car.

EdView attachment 59787View attachment 59788View attachment 59789View attachment 59790
What is that weird bumpy stuff on your paint?
 
I'm trying to figure out the door handle swap to get rid of the lock cylinder.
Does anyone know if the crew cab rear drivers side door handle would work or does it have to be the passenger handle?
You will need the passenger door handle and flip it. This is what I did and added jimmijammer.com.
I'm in Bandera 1/2 the year so I know SA is bad on theft. They really like the crew cabs so they can haul more people up from Mexico.
Good luck sir.
 
BroncoHooves, can you reconfirm that part number has the passive entry functionality? When I google it, it indicates both with and without?

From Ford Parts Connect:


  • Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Parts


  • SKU:JC3Z-2522404-GDPTM
  • Positions: Right, Front Right Outer
  • Description:
    Without passive entry primed. Paint to match, without chrome without cylinder. 2017-20, with passive entry, primed.
  • Replaces:HC3Z-2522404-GAPTM, HC3Z-2522404-GBPTM, HC3Z-2522404-GCPTM, HC3Z-2522404-GDPTM, JC3Z-2522404-GBPTM, JC3Z-2522404-GCPTM
  • Sold In Quantity:1

Thanks in advance! Have to fix my drivers door after a break-in in San Antonio.

Ed
San Antonio…..shocking! I’m surprised they didn’t take it.
 
Probably been asked before but can the lock cylinder not be removed and then come up with some kind of plug for the hole in the door handle?
That’s what I did, rubber plugs from Maynard’s, a small one for the handle and larger one for the lock cylinder hole. Pushed both in flush with surface. But I also fabricated an aluminum blocker plate to cover over the inside of the lock cylinder hole with a flange on it to go under the handle portion inside door to keep from anyone removing the rubber plugs and trying to get a coat hanger or anything else in the hole. Attached the bracket using the mount points (2 of them) for the handle. Wish I took pics of it prior to install.
 
That’s what I did, rubber plugs from Maynard’s, a small one for the handle and larger one for the lock cylinder hole. Pushed both in flush with surface. But I also fabricated an aluminum blocker plate to cover over the inside of the lock cylinder hole with a flange on it to go under the handle portion inside door to keep from anyone removing the rubber plugs and trying to get a coat hanger or anything else in the hole. Attached the bracket using the mount points (2 of them) for the handle. Wish I took pics of it prior to install.
I have been considering a couple of fender washers on each side of the lock cylinder hole with a button-head screw and nylock nut on the back to fill the hole. The outside of the door handle looks fine, and I can touch-up behind the handle around where the lock cylinder was to somewhat mask the paint damage. I will miss the comfort of having the key to access the truck if the battery dies, but I would rather have the inconvenience of jumping the truck with my accessible terminal blocks to use the FOB or keypad over not having a truck to jump....

Thanks all for the support. I will get on with the repairs this weekend.

Ed
 
So... the burning question Ed: What did the fuckers get for their 30 seconds of effort?

Like @BroncoHooves, I too had a we-owe paint damage on my truck from delivery and I bought the passenger door handle prior to the dealership sending my truck to the body shop. I specifically asked multiple times for the service manager to have the handle sitting on the passenger seat sprayed when they fixed the damage and he said "yeah, ok" multiple times back. I said I'd pay extra, I said whatever it takes... I get the truck back and the handle is still in the plastic untouched.

I still have a passenger door handle I need painted. I have the equipment, I'll probably just buy the paint and do it myself. Sick of dealing with incompetent dealerships.
 
They took nothing. There was easily a couple hundred rounds of ammo in the unlocked glove box and console vault. A nice LED flashlight, a knife, tape measure, etc.... I think they only wanted a gun.

The good news, a warranty replacement lock from Console Vault will be here tomorrow, great customer service.

I think I can "repair" the handle with no cash outlay, so for a bad event, it turned out as good as possible.

Ed
 
Is this to avoid the risk of folks who pop the handle? If so... I took a cheaper route. I bought door handle covers since they were chrome and covered all my handles with black and just asked for all full covers, none with a key hole so you can't tell and can't access the hole.

That does nothing to deter the break in. The key hole isn't the way they gain entry.
 
I did my repairs this afternoon. I decided to at least temporarily just plug the key cylinder hole. Didn't want to wait on shipping a passenger handle and paint and body, since the driver's door wouldn't lock. Here's some before and after shots of all the repairs.


Ed
 
That does nothing to deter the break in. The key hole isn't the way they gain entry.
I say it cause the video I saw where they showed the weakness mentioned it is the key cylinder that lets them know it is able to be broke into. When they see a flat handle, it means no cylinder which means they won't bother.
 
For me, it is because of the pictures below. I was sitting in a client's boardroom yesterday in San Antonio doing a sales presentation and right outside the window my truck alarm went off. I grabbed my FOB out of my pocket and looked at the truck to turn off the alarm,. and saw someone in my truck. They broke the key lock and destroyed the lock on my Console Vault (Console Vault customer service is awesome - free replacement already on the way - going keyed instead off combo due to much harder to grab with channel locks). I am eliminating one way or another that key cylinder so it is harder to get in the truck.

The whole thing took less than 30 second from alarm going off, to back in the getaway car.

EdView attachment 59787View attachment 59788View attachment 59789View attachment 59790
Friend just told me same happened to her white 250 the other day in San Antonio. Clearly it's safer to stay home.
 
Over a year ago I deleted the driver door tumbler/lock mechanism. Later I deleted all door lock pulls, removed the mechanism from all four doors. Also if you do that you don't need jimi jammers.

I placed a domed plug where the keyhole was and painted it with touch up paint, being small was not really noticeable. 🤔 But I finally decided to do it properly, so I purchased the passenger door handle mechanism. You don't need the entire mechanism to do this, but Ford does not sell just the handle. With the entire mechanism in hand the handle itself
20230702_124731.webp
20230702_124748.webp
20230702_124803.webp
20230702_124811.webp
20230702_125047.webp
was removed. Much easier install this way as you don't have to make ANY modifications to reinstall on the drivers door. You remove 2 silver pins, then reinstall by flipping the pins so they point down rather than up. See yellow arrows. It's an expensive modification, but if you want your handle to look proper it's the way it has to be done. The paint was kinda high as star white is a 3 step process. $120.00, handle mechanism $238.00. I provided the fuel door to the painter to color match. Came out perfect.
 
Over a year ago I deleted the driver door tumbler/lock mechanism. Later I deleted all door lock pulls, removed the mechanism from all four doors. Also if you do that you don't need jimi jammers.

I placed a domed plug where the keyhole was and painted it with touch up paint, being small was not really noticeable. 🤔 But I finally decided to do it properly, so I purchased the passenger door handle mechanism. You don't need the entire mechanism to do this, but Ford does not sell just the handle. With the entire mechanism in hand the handle itself View attachment 124371View attachment 124372View attachment 124373View attachment 124374View attachment 124376was removed. Much easier install this way as you don't have to make ANY modifications to reinstall on the drivers door. You remove 2 silver pins, then reinstall by flipping the pins so they point down rather than up. See yellow arrows. It's an expensive modification, but if you want your handle to look proper it's the way it has to be done. The paint was kinda high as star white is a 3 step process. $120.00, handle mechanism $238.00. I provided the fuel door to the painter to color match. Came out perfect.
I bought a complete passenger handle too but I just swapped the painted handle cover. Way less effort and you can't tell a key lock was ever there.
 
I bought a complete passenger handle too but I just swapped the painted handle cover. Way less effort and you can't tell a key lock was ever there.
Doing the swap like I did it was not that much more effort honestly. You bought one already oainted?
 
Doing the swap like I did it was not that much more effort honestly. You bought one already oainted?
Actually, no. I swapped my painted handles for chrome. Rather than include superfluous details given the topic, I just went w 'painted' to indicate the portion I used. Lol.
I was never able to find factory pre-painted handles for our years.
 
Actually, no. I swapped my painted handles for chrome. Rather than include superfluous details given the topic, I just went w 'painted' to indicate the portion I used. Lol.
I was never able to find factory pre-painted handles for our years.
Ok, ok, I got it. No nothing comes pre painted, hence the $120 for paint, plus white is difficult to color match. But I got ya!!
 

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