DO NOT BUY A TRANSMISSiON PAN!!!

Got mine installed last night. One of the easiest jobs I've done. It's a mess no matter how you do it, but I bought a fluid extractor on amazon that made my life way easier/cleaner. I learned that the factory isn't good with fluid levels. The fill plug is supposed to mark your "full"; i pulled the fill plug on flat ground and scrambled as 1-2 quarts of skunked fluid poured out. Great way to start out.

IMG_7999.webp

IMG_8001.webp


Stuck the dipstick tube of the fluid extractor in the fill hole from over the top of the driveshaft to get the angle right to reach the bottom of the pan and extracted the old fluid. Pulled the factory heat-shield and all hardware leaving one bolt in front, one in the rear. One note, the 22 have a lot more 13mm bolts than their instructions call out; no big deal as i had the 13mm and 8mm out already, just worth noting.

Carefully removed the final two to find nearly nothing in the pan. Swapped the filter, installed the gasket into the Banks pan with the drain plug, 23+ fluid level check plug (of course, i waited their recommended 24 second Loctite cure-time before installing...), and 1/8" NPT port plug, then bolted the pan on. I don't have an inch/lb. torque wrench, so i used my MTB to hit 8NM vs. the 65 in.lb. spec. Seems stupid low, but it's on and sealed.

IMG_8002.webp


IMG_8010.webp

The instructions call for 12qt. to start, this netted me another fluid bath. I got 10 quarts in, then plugged it and drove hills until i got the temp to 200. Left it running in park and got 4 more quarts in. She's full of fresh fluid and happy and my entire block smells like ATF (guns back in your holsters, boys - I'm talking trans fluid). I'm pretty sure that's the least of my neighbor's concerns as i heard there was a very inconsiderate, large man in overalls, orange crocs and a headlamp idling his deleted truck and watering his front yard at 11pm "just because the hose was already out".

Last note. There's a plastic, threaded bracket that clips to one of the corner bolts on the stock pan and it is zip-tied to a wiring harness that runs around the front driveshaft - there's no accomodation on the banks pan to resecure this. Perfect test for my magnetic zip-tie mounts to the trans crossmember.
IMG_8006.webp

Overall, I'm SUPER impressed with this thing. It takes a lot to impress me from a quality standpoint, but the refinement and attention to detail is second to none. The design is thought out and fits perfect; the gasket is perfect and super satisfying to install - there are two indexes and every bolt hole is aligned with the curvature of the molded gasket as you press it in. It may seem stupid, but as a manufacturer, i know the attention and persistence it took even to get this gasket to be this nice.

The hardware is ARP to secure the pan to the case; the hardware that isn't ARP appears to be custom - I'd guess 17-4 stainless for the drain plug bolt? Beautifully machined, as is the secondary fluid level bolt. Loctite is provided, which was nice as i was out of Red, only had blue. The scoop is well though out with the engineered break point should it get caught on something, and i love that it uses the same hardware (with the addition of nice, billet washers) as the pan so you're not scrounging through all the hardware trying to find the 4 different length bolts hoping you didn't accidentally use them somewhere in the pan/case interface.

Not sure why they're not happy with the aluminum, but I'm THRILLED with my pan and to have a drain plug for the next service. It was recommended to follow a 35K drain/fill and filter change at 70K, so i won't need to pull it until 140K now.

Any questions or picture requests, just hit me up, but I absolutely think this thing's worth the wait.
 
@BLACKCHERRY - Is there anyway you can measure how much lower the Banks pan sits vs. factory. I know a few of us have skid plates and I am still trying to figure out if this pan will fit - Although now it is being redesigned.

One of the guys from Banks measured the gap between the stock pan and the skid plate on my truck months ago (in a parking lot, in the dark, with improper measuring equipment - so not very precise), and the consensus was "maybe".

Appreciate anything you can share.
 
@BLACKCHERRY - Is there anyway you can measure how much lower the Banks pan sits vs. factory. I know a few of us have skid plates and I am still trying to figure out if this pan will fit - Although now it is being redesigned.

One of the guys from Banks measured the gap between the stock pan and the skid plate on my truck months ago (in a parking lot, in the dark, with improper measuring equipment - so not very precise), and the consensus was "maybe".

Appreciate anything you can share.
From the bottom of the case to the bottom of the scoop - about 7.5"; about 6-3/8" behind the scoop.

IMG_8013.webp

IMG_8015.webp
 
Wow, that's awesome! Too bad its been pushed back. I'm glad the scoop doesn't stick too far down as I thought it was going to be.
 
Got mine installed last night. One of the easiest jobs I've done. It's a mess no matter how you do it, but I bought a fluid extractor on amazon that made my life way easier/cleaner. I learned that the factory isn't good with fluid levels. The fill plug is supposed to mark your "full"; i pulled the fill plug on flat ground and scrambled as 1-2 quarts of skunked fluid poured out. Great way to start out.

View attachment 263680
View attachment 263681

Stuck the dipstick tube of the fluid extractor in the fill hole from over the top of the driveshaft to get the angle right to reach the bottom of the pan and extracted the old fluid. Pulled the factory heat-shield and all hardware leaving one bolt in front, one in the rear. One note, the 22 have a lot more 13mm bolts than their instructions call out; no big deal as i had the 13mm and 8mm out already, just worth noting.

Carefully removed the final two to find nearly nothing in the pan. Swapped the filter, installed the gasket into the Banks pan with the drain plug, 23+ fluid level check plug (of course, i waited their recommended 24 second Loctite cure-time before installing...), and 1/8" NPT port plug, then bolted the pan on. I don't have an inch/lb. torque wrench, so i used my MTB to hit 8NM vs. the 65 in.lb. spec. Seems stupid low, but it's on and sealed.

View attachment 263683

View attachment 263682
The instructions call for 12qt. to start, this netted me another fluid bath. I got 10 quarts in, then plugged it and drove hills until i got the temp to 200. Left it running in park and got 4 more quarts in. She's full of fresh fluid and happy and my entire block smells like ATF (guns back in your holsters, boys - I'm talking trans fluid). I'm pretty sure that's the least of my neighbor's concerns as i heard there was a very inconsiderate, large man in overalls, orange crocs and a headlamp idling his deleted truck and watering his front yard at 11pm "just because the hose was already out".

Last note. There's a plastic, threaded bracket that clips to one of the corner bolts on the stock pan and it is zip-tied to a wiring harness that runs around the front driveshaft - there's no accomodation on the banks pan to resecure this. Perfect test for my magnetic zip-tie mounts to the trans crossmember.
View attachment 263684
Overall, I'm SUPER impressed with this thing. It takes a lot to impress me from a quality standpoint, but the refinement and attention to detail is second to none. The design is thought out and fits perfect; the gasket is perfect and super satisfying to install - there are two indexes and every bolt hole is aligned with the curvature of the molded gasket as you press it in. It may seem stupid, but as a manufacturer, i know the attention and persistence it took even to get this gasket to be this nice.

The hardware is ARP to secure the pan to the case; the hardware that isn't ARP appears to be custom - I'd guess 17-4 stainless for the drain plug bolt? Beautifully machined, as is the secondary fluid level bolt. Loctite is provided, which was nice as i was out of Red, only had blue. The scoop is well though out with the engineered break point should it get caught on something, and i love that it uses the same hardware (with the addition of nice, billet washers) as the pan so you're not scrounging through all the hardware trying to find the 4 different length bolts hoping you didn't accidentally use them somewhere in the pan/case interface.

Not sure why they're not happy with the aluminum, but I'm THRILLED with my pan and to have a drain plug for the next service. It was recommended to follow a 35K drain/fill and filter change at 70K, so i won't need to pull it until 140K now.

Any questions or picture requests, just hit me up, but I absolutely think this thing's worth the wait.
Appreciate the detail. Never heard of the magnetic ty-wrap holders. Sounds like something else I need in my tool box.
 
@BLACKCHERRY - Thank you for the pics and measurement.

I just measured my truck, and I have over 8" of room in the front (where the scoop is) and about 5 1/4" at the very back next to the cross member. Looks like the front will fit just fine, it is the back end that is very close.
 
Got my PPE pan today. Won’t tackle the install until after the KTP meet. Definitely don’t want to go fiddling with things right before a road trip.
Anyhoo….. was looking over the constructions. Are you guys removing the trans cooler lines for installation? Just looking under there, it doesn’t seem like that is necessary. But I’ve been in the position before where I say “Bah, I don’t need to do that” only to find out (at the least opportune time) that I do.
 
I’ve been in the position before where I say “Bah, I don’t need to do that” only to find out (at the least opportune time) that I do


Paging @trmrzla

I never did see (then again that doesn't mean he dint tellus) an update to his Godzilla 10R140 PPE pan swappage.

Last report was the exhaust may have been in the way (of the rear of the pan clearing the rear edges of the valvebody?), meaning the driver after-cat headpipe that crosses over to the passenger-side headpipe...

I am in a similar holding pattern for when I schedule a valvebody swap - want to intall the pan at that time.

I admire BLACKCHERRY's "do what you can with what you have, where you are" ethos, but I'm gettin too old for another ATF shower (it's worse when swapping valvebodies) in my driveway with the wind blowing everything sideways. It's shop time.
 
Got my PPE pan today. Won’t tackle the install until after the KTP meet. Definitely don’t want to go fiddling with things right before a road trip.
Anyhoo….. was looking over the constructions. Are you guys removing the trans cooler lines for installation? Just looking under there, it doesn’t seem like that is necessary. But I’ve been in the position before where I say “Bah, I don’t need to do that” only to find out (at the least opportune time) that I do.
Nothing in the way on my 2022 - needed a wobble to get around the transmission crossmember for the rear-most 3 bolts, but that's the extent of complication. It was a stupidly easy install.
 
I'm pretty sure that's the least of my neighbor's concerns as i heard there was a very inconsiderate, large man in overalls, orange crocs and a headlamp idling his deleted truck and watering his front yard at 11pm "just because the hose was already out".


Hee !

😝
 
Nothing in the way on my 2022 - needed a wobble to get around the transmission crossmember for the rear-most 3 bolts, but that's the extent of complication. It was a stupidly easy install.
Yeah. Looked like a wobble there and one of the front bolts above the heat exchanger bracket (middle- left). I honestly couldn’t even make out what lines the instructions are referencing. Maybe the gasser is different. I did buy the 7.tree pan.
 
It is an easy job. It's neater if you just drill a hole in the plastic pan to drain the fluid. I reused one of the bolts with the threaded stud to hold the wiring harness in its original spot.
 
It is an easy job. It's neater if you just drill a hole in the plastic pan to drain the fluid. I reused one of the bolts with the threaded stud to hold the wiring harness in its original spot.
My OCD brain would much rather use my nifty magnetic zip tie base that have 1 non-ARP bolt - I don’t think I’d sleep! But yeah - that’s a great, and much smarter, alternative.
 
It is an easy job. It's neater if you just drill a hole in the plastic pan to drain the fluid. I reused one of the bolts with the threaded stud to hold the wiring harness in its original spot.
Thought about this, but I’m the guy that has to keep his stock parts in tact so I can store them, then make them the next guys problem with a bed full of garbage when I sell it. I also thought I could drill it, drain it, then add a drain plug to it, but the honeycomb structure makes that difficult on the bottom. Plus? Now I have this super cool fluid extractor!
 
I’m the guy that has to keep his stock parts in tact so I can store them, then make them the next guys problem with a bed full of garbage when I sell it.


I resemble that remark! :geek:
 
Are you guys removing the trans cooler lines for installation? Just looking under there, it doesn’t seem like that is necessary.
I haven’t done it personally (yet) but you can use the trans cooler return to flush the torque converter with clean fluid. Neat trick to get all the old ATF out.
 
Back
Top Bottom