Scared Sh!tless

[The Evil Twin]

@hahnster 10-15% of the trailer weight. I found that on my long box truck, the magic number was 12% with a 13k toy hauler. Guys on the camping forum flipped saying it was too little. One or two said I would cause a horrible accident doing that
There is no perfect number because every trailer is different. I know people hate to take the time and spend the money, but I highly recommend taking a day and going to a truck stop with CAT scales. You can weigh each axle loaded and unloaded to see where the weight is going. You'll need to test drive in between weigh ins. Once I did that, I could tow that 35' pig while steering with a couple fingers. Crosswind, passing trucks, screaming kids.... no problem. The key to doing this is make only 1 change at a time. Otherwise you won't know what helped or hurt.
A lot of folks just want to hook up and go. Those that take the time to dial the rig in have the best towing experiences around.

 

[HelmPilot]

There is no exact rule because of all the variables but there are however a few MUSTS, which are:

You absolutely need a minimum tongue weight of at least 10% to 15% (ideal is suggested at 12.5%) of the total trailer and load weight as measured “before equalizing”. If your tow vehicle cannot handle that without overloading the rear axle get a different tow vehicle or shed weight in the trailer.

If you’re going to tow the same or similar trailer all the time …….. be smart and help yourself optimize your setup stability by spending the time and a few bucks taking your tow setup to a truck weigh scale and weigh each individual axle of the tow vehicle and the trailer recording that weight so you can analyze your setup. Your goal is to 1) equalize but not exceed GAWR on the tow vehicle axle weights and not exceed the GVWR (look it up). 2) Take the total weight of all trailer axles and add it to the GVWR making sure you aren’t exceeding the GCWR number. If you are and /have an accident most insurance policies can refuse coverage. 3) If your using a WD setup your goal would be to position trailer load so that trailer axle weights are as close to equal while still retaining your 12.5% targeted tongue weight. This applys to both equalizing type shackled leaf spring multi axle trailers and torsion type.

If you have done all of the above I’m betting towing will not be a “puckering” event for you ….. But if you ever get substantial sway or gets so badly accentuated the trailer starts to hop side to,side “DO NOT PANIC AND HIT THE VEHICLE BRAKES’ (likely result will be jackknifing or total loss of control of both vehicle and trailer) but calmly reach down and manually start applying increasing braking force to the trailer with the brake controller while maintaining vehicle speed to settle the trailer down. It’s essential you practice doing this a few times before you have a severe sway incident so it becomes a natural reaction. Please trust me on this….. from practical experience I can say this will save you from disaster!

Lastly, no towing setup advice would be complete without testing your trailer brakes setting per your vehicle owners manual if OEM eqipped brake controlled or using you add on brake controller’s manual instructions. If you tow much at all you will eventually have a panic stop event it’s not if it’s when!

Sorry eviltwin I was typing at the same time didn’t mean to double up on the good advice

 

[Modman]

@The Evil Twin @HelmPilot - you've listed some great advice. I'll add one additional thing, however. A good check to ensure you don't have too little or too much weight on the rear is the front wheel well measurement:

1) Measure the front without the trailer. I use a piece of painters tape on the fender and measure to the center of the hub
2) Measure with the trailer but no weight distribution
3) Measure with weight distribution

The difference between 1 and 3 should be 50% of the difference between 1 and 2. This is also the Ford recommendation in the towing guide.

Now, I want to be crystal clear that does not ensure you have enough tongue weight. That is an independent measurement. Getting both dialed in correctly will provide for a more solid tow experience. I have a Weighsafe hitch for tongue weight, but have also been to the scales to verify.

 

[Optimus🤖]

A lot of folks just want to hook up and go.

You're not talking about me are you!? Because I definitely use my CAT scale .

 

[The Evil Twin]

@The Evil Twin @HelmPilot - you've listed some great advice. I'll add one additional thing, however. A good check to ensure you don't have too little or too much weight on the rear is the front wheel well measurement:

1) Measure the front without the trailer. I use a piece of painters tape on the fender and measure to the center of the hub
2) Measure with the trailer but no weight distribution
3) Measure with weight distribution

The difference between 1 and 3 should be 50% of the difference between 1 and 2. This is also the Ford recommendation in the towing guide.

Now, I want to be crystal clear that does not ensure you have enough tongue weight. That is an independent measurement. Getting both dialed in correctly will provide for a more solid tow experience. I have a Weighsafe hitch for tongue weight, but have also been to the scales to verify.

That is why I recommend going to a scale. Returning 50% of the front height is a good place to start. Usually sufficient with trailers >10k. Knowing you returned 50% of the weight (or thereabouts) is better IMHO as it accounts for variable rate springs.
Excellent point about tongue weight. That is the 1st thing to get right before messing with weight distribution. Depending on the tongue weight, you can even use a board/ brick/ bathroom scale. You can use a longer board or steel square stock to reduce the weight on the scale to bring it within the limits of the scale.

How to Measure Tongue Weight

There are a few different methods that can be used as a trailer tongue weight calculator, including using a tongue weight scale, using a bathroom scale or using a vehicle scale. Tongue weight is the downward force exerted at the vehicle-trailer coupling point when your trailer is hooked up for...

www.curtmfg.com

 

[Modman]

Depending on the tongue weight, you can even use a board/ brick/ bathroom scale. You can use a longer board or steel square stock to reduce the weight on the scale to bring it within the limits of the scale.

I used to do this when I was a broke race car owner and needed to dial in corner weights. Worked well!

 

[gcsupraman]

I'll start off by saying this is my 1st post here and if I'm not following the rules, then please let me know. I've read a ton of posts here and am really hoping for just a straight answer.

I have a Hyperlite 3016 Toy Hauler that I have been towing for a few years with my Chevy 2500 HD and never had a single issue. I use a Weigh Safe WD hitch.

I wanted some upgrades and decided to trade it in. I got my 24 F250 Tremor last month and immediately had a trip planned and was excited. Reconfigured the Weigh Safe for the new truck. Off we go. Got about 30 mins down the road and realized the sway was ridiculous and I could not do anything more than 60MPH. I was catching sway from passing motorcycles. I mean, come on... Really? I have never been more scared to tow something in my life. Not to mention it felt like I was driving a boat on the water. It was all over the place.

Again, this is not my 1st rodeo on towing a trailer, so I know how to load properly, set the WS, etc. If there is something I need to add, then I'm all ears. I've seen mention of adding sway bars, air bags, etc, but what am I missing?

I'll also add, that I catch sway period... without towing anything. Every time I'm passed I get that pull, and push...

TIA for any helpful responses.

Same problem here. I bought a set of Timbrens and it’s a night and day difference.

 

[Phillbo]

Every time I'm passed I get that pull, and push... It's nowhere near as drastic and maybe I'm just super tuned in now, but I never noticed that with my 2500.

Drive faster