Rossmonster Truck Build – 2024 F350 (long wheelbase)

[Chris-DTA]

Interesting and timely as always Chris!!!!

I just ordered the 7-link front light bar, two LP4’s, and two S2’s for the TRAMPER…. My suggestion if you didn’t would be to order the side panel blockers for those LP4’s…

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If you’re going to run them on your A-pillars….

I’m for now going to use the factory switches for mine but I can assume a switch pro for the new Fords will be out soon if you ever need to add more down the road…. My lights haven’t even arrived yet so I’ll be watching your install closely!

The reflector kit is on backorder, hoping it will arrive soon. Installation of the LP4s has to wait - a) I am still waiting for the hood mounting brackets to come from SDHQ and b) I ordered the wiring harness extension for the upfitter switches and I assume it will take another 3-4 weeks for those to come.

 

[Nick@ApolloOff-Road]

Now the bigger or more challenging question for me - do I use the OEM upfitter switches, do I install a relay and an "on|off|on" switch or do I install something like an Auxbeam 8-gang switch panel (cheap, but seems reliable and not as expensive as a Switch-Pros 9100)?! The LP4s have the high beam and the backlight option = 2 switch settings needed. When I drop off the truck at Rossmonster, they will need at least 4 upfitter switches (2 for the lightbar, 1 for the compressor, 1 for the rear bumper pod lights). I am considering adding 2 LP9s and an air horn down the road. I could try to use the switch for the rear slider window for the airhorn, but that is TBD as I do not know if that will be possible.

The LP4 doesn't have a low power mode. Only the LP6 and LP9 have that functionality, so you get high beam only with LP4. I'd just write that directly to your upfitter.

As for the backlight, it's more for aesthetics. It's not bright enough to be a DRL and isn't visible during the day. You can wire that to an upfitter or tap it into your running lights so you don't waste a switch.

Regarding switch harnesses, we carry both Auxbeam and Switch-Pros, but Switch-Pros is a better unit and is made in the USA. There are also some good quality mounts available from SDHQ and other companies. Additionally SP is going to be releasing some of their own mounts as well.

The reflector kit is on backorder, hoping it will arrive soon. Installation of the LP4s has to wait - a) I am still waiting for the hood mounting brackets to come from SDHQ and b) I ordered the wiring harness extension for the upfitter switches and I assume it will take another 3-4 weeks for those to come.

You shouldn't need an extension harness for the LP4s. The wiring that comes with it can be easily adapted to work with the upfitters. Just main power to upfitter, T-tap running lights or use upfitter for amber backlight (or don't use at all), and then ground to the chassis.

 

[Chris-DTA]

The LP4 doesn't have a low power mode. Only the LP6 and LP9 have that functionality, so you get high beam only with LP4. I'd just write that directly to your upfitter.

As for the backlight, it's more for aesthetics. It's not bright enough to be a DRL and isn't visible during the day. You can wire that to an upfitter or tap it into your running lights so you don't waste a switch.

Regarding switch harnesses, we carry both Auxbeam and Switch-Pros, but Switch-Pros is a better unit and is made in the USA. There are also some good quality mounts available from SDHQ and other companies. Additionally SP is going to be releasing some of their own mounts as well.



You shouldn't need an extension harness for the LP4s. The wiring that comes with it can be easily adapted to work with the upfitters. Just main power to upfitter, T-tap running lights or use upfitter for amber backlight (or don't use at all), and then ground to the chassis.

Great points, Nick. I appreciate it. I've been watching a few YouTube videos about the LP4s and the backlight and agree with what you said. Not worth the effort. For now, I'll skip Auxbeam/Switch-Pros and only wire the high beam to an upfitter.

 

[TRAMPER]

The LP4 doesn't have a low power mode. Only the LP6 and LP9 have that functionality, so you get high beam only with LP4. I'd just write that directly to your upfitter.

As for the backlight, it's more for aesthetics. It's not bright enough to be a DRL and isn't visible during the day. You can wire that to an upfitter or tap it into your running lights so you don't waste a switch.

Regarding switch harnesses, we carry both Auxbeam and Switch-Pros, but Switch-Pros is a better unit and is made in the USA. There are also some good quality mounts available from SDHQ and other companies. Additionally SP is going to be releasing some of their own mounts as well.



You shouldn't need an extension harness for the LP4s. The wiring that comes with it can be easily adapted to work with the upfitters. Just main power to upfitter, T-tap running lights or use upfitter for amber backlight (or don't use at all), and then ground to the chassis.

Nick

@Chris-DTA is referring to this harness extension that quite a few of us (including me) have ordered.

CB Lighting Designs

CB Lighting Designs

cblightingdesigns.myshopify.com

Definitely not needed but just simplifies and cleans up the installation, and allows for plugs…. You know how us truck guys are with gadgets….

 

[Nick@ApolloOff-Road]

Nick

@Chris-DTA is referring to this harness extension that quite a few of us (including me) have ordered.

CB Lighting Designs

CB Lighting Designs

cblightingdesigns.myshopify.com

Definitely not needed but just simplifies and cleans up the installation, and allows for plugs…. You know how us truck guys are with gadgets….

Interesting. I'd not seen that before. I've known guys to wire up 1-way Weatherpack connectors to make the OEM leads have plugs. But that's neat.

 

[Chris-DTA]

And ... the vanity license plates are back in action. Got the truck registered today. I politely "declined" the extra tax (~$350-ish) they wanted if the vehicle would weigh over 10,000#. Another stupid California tax. lol I will worry about that another time. But hey, at least I received a cool $1 (one dollar) discount because I brought my existing plates ...

And if all goes well, I will have IGLA protection tomorrow. The installer is coming back again tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed, will hold my breath, ... I may get lucky

 

[Chris-DTA]

No go on the IGLA anti-theft system for my truck. 4th multi-hour visit, this time with engineering being on the phone and also remoting into the laptop. They can read the truck, but not control it. I posted a few more details in the IGLA discussion here.

I will sleep over this situation a few times to figure out what am I going to do. Do I want to go with Ravelco or wait for IGLA to eventually come up with a solution?! Ravelco works. I guess it is no longer foolproof or undefeated if I understand this correctly, but chances defeating a Ravelco are still very small in the big scheme of things. I just hate the big, fat dongle Ravelco uses and that it impacts functionality so much.

 

[Tx-Tremor6.7]

No go on the IGLA anti-theft system for my truck. 4th multi-hour visit, this time with engineering being on the phone and also remoting into the laptop. They can read the truck, but not control it. I posted a few more details in the IGLA discussion here.

I will sleep over this situation a few times to figure out what am I going to do. Do I want to go with Ravelco or wait for IGLA to eventually come up with a solution?! Ravelco works. I guess it is no longer foolproof or undefeated if I understand this correctly, but chances defeating a Ravelco are still very small in the big scheme of things. I just hate the big, fat dongle Ravelco uses and that it impacts functionality so much.

Do you have a pointer for when the Ravelco was defeated? I have had mine for several years, and besides the dongle size, I do not have any complaints. I never remote start my truck, so that was a non-issue for me.

 

[Chris-DTA]

Do you have a pointer for when the Ravelco was defeated? I have had mine for several years, and besides the dongle size, I do not have any complaints. I never remote start my truck, so that was a non-issue for me.

So, here is a video that shows how easy it is to defeat Ravelco. I do not know what device the person uses, but the video seems legitimate.

The IGLA install discussion also has a reference to it and I think the discussion about "Cartel strikes again" has them, too. Too lazy to search, but when you google "ravelco defeated" quite a few results are coming back. I think Ravelco is great to protect from casual theft, but if someone is really after your truck and does this professionally the chances of the truck not being stolen go down.

 

[Alpoba]

Do you have a pointer for when the Ravelco was defeated? I have had mine for several years, and besides the dongle size, I do not have any complaints. I never remote start my truck, so that was a non-issue for me.

I wish i saw all these videos before i installed it on my truck. I tried the multimeter tests on my ravelco, and yeah it’s that easy to find the two circuits. At this point i wouldn’t recommend it given what is now known.

 

[Chris-DTA]

Windows are now nicely tinted (@Optimus hopefully approves ). 35% on the sides, 70% in the front. The rear window did not get any love this time around. There is no point really in this case. Saved me $125.

 

[Optimus🤖]

Windows are now nicely tinted (@Optimus hopefully approves ). 35% on the sides, 70% in the front. The rear window did not get any love this time around. There is no point really in this case. Saved me $125.

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I feel alot better now, thank you. Looks great!

 

[Tex_Hunter]

...The rear window did not get any love this time around. There is no point really in this case. Saved me $125.

For the pass through on the camper, how does that work? do they cut into the cab walls at all or just remove the rear window?

 

[Chris-DTA]

For the pass through on the camper, how does that work? do they cut into the cab walls at all or just remove the rear window?

The will remove the middle seat and cut into the rear wall and remove parts of the window. It is wide enough for an adult to get through. Of course, you have to crouch down to fit through, but that is to be expected.

Here is a picture looking into one of their trucks so that you have an idea how big the opening is.

 

[Tx-Tremor6.7]

So, here is a video that shows how easy it is to defeat Ravelco. I do not know what device the person uses, but the video seems legitimate.

The IGLA install discussion also has a reference to it and I think the discussion about "Cartel strikes again" has them, too. Too lazy to search, but when you google "ravelco defeated" quite a few results are coming back. I think Ravelco is great to protect from casual theft, but if someone is really after your truck and does this professionally the chances of the truck not being stolen go down.

Thanks for the pointers to the videos. How much does the IGLA cost?

EDIT;
After some digging, I see the cost is $1200 which is almost double the Ravelco. I also read the very long thread on issues with certain 2024s and that is a bit concerning. I am waiting on my 2024 Platinum F450 that will replace my 2021 Tremor, so I am very interested to see if they can get things worked out.

 

[Chris-DTA]

You can't make up this shizzzz ..

California DMV. When I registered my Tremor two years ago, they did not even look at the smog certificate or the weight certificate I brought. With the new F350, I know I have to go back a third time because they do not seem to know what they are doing. The last time I was there, it was all in order. The smog was done, and the vehicle was VIN certified. I got my license plate and the registration, and for the last three weeks, I have been waiting for the title to arrive.

Now I am getting a big envelope from the DMV. Inside my entire paperwork from when I got the truck registered with a stamped notice that I need to provide a scale weight certificate. And it looks so "friendly" (not) how it came out of the envelope - especially, the red temporary permit to operate the vehicle legally. They even included a return envelope, but not in the matching size nor any postage. I cannot fit that pile of paper into that tiny envelope.

Come on, DMV - you made a mistake. I am fine with getting the weight certificate (even though it does not make any sense), but you screwed this up. Maybe say something like "Sorry, we missed this. Our mistake. Please provide...bla bla bla. To make easier for you, accept this pre-paid envelope to return all the paperwork ...."

Morons .... <rant over>

 

[idrivea2022tremor]

Sounds to me like the DMV found out you "modified" the truck. New gasoline vehicles sold in CA have an 8 year grace period before needing a smog check. And you should only need a weight if you're buying a vehicle out of state and bringing into CA. If you purchased in CA, new, the dealership submits the weight with the purchase paperwork. However, they've learned the vehicle has been modified and they believe it is a commercial vehicle. They want it weighed because they think it should have one of those stickers on the side. And since they've determined it's a "commercial" vehicle you get lumped into a different vehicle category.

You can get around this since the intention of the vehicle is living (RV). Basically you'll need CHP to look at the truck and determine the "commercial" modifications are actually for the purposes of living and you'll get the truck registered as a "housecar". It's not all that complicated but you'll need to prove it to the DMV. I would start by giving them a call (believe it or not, CA DMV is pretty good on the phone) tell them the modifications are for living and ask them how to prove it to the DMV.

read the bit about "Passenger Vehicle Registration" and the following "Commercial Vehicle Registration" - https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handb...rcial-vehicles/pickup-with-a-camper-attached/

 

[Chris-DTA]

Sounds to me like the DMV found out you "modified" the truck. New gasoline vehicles sold in CA have an 8 year grace period before needing a smog check. And you should only need a weight if you're buying a vehicle out of state and bringing into CA. If you purchased in CA, new, the dealership submits the weight with the purchase paperwork. However, they've learned the vehicle has been modified and they believe it is a commercial vehicle. They want it weighed because they think it should have one of those stickers on the side. And since they've determined it's a "commercial" vehicle you get lumped into a different vehicle category.

You can get around this since the intention of the vehicle is living (RV). Basically you'll need CHP to look at the truck and determine the "commercial" modifications are actually for the purposes of living and you'll get the truck registered as a "housecar". It's not all that complicated but you'll need to prove it to the DMV. I would start by giving them a call (believe it or not, CA DMV is pretty good on the phone) tell them the modifications are for living and ask them how to prove it to the DMV.

read the bit about "Passenger Vehicle Registration" and the following "Commercial Vehicle Registration" - https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handb...rcial-vehicles/pickup-with-a-camper-attached/

Truck has not been modified yet. I bought of state and been to the DMV twice. All was good and they issued my registration and transferred my vanity plate to the new truck. It amazes me that a brand-new vehicle with a certified 50-states emission and a manufacturing title that shows the weight requires these "add-ons" to be registered. It would have been easier if they told me the first time, but this is just stupid in my opinion.

 

[Chris-DTA]

"Project" of the day ... completed. Bug deflector installed. Purchased with points directly from Ford. I am probably 1/16th off on the passenger side, but it looks spot-on on the driver's side. I'll live ...

 

[Chris-DTA]

The Baja Design LP4s have been installed. It was a long day, and it actually started yesterday afternoon. I went ahead and installed the SDHQ mounting brackets on my 2024 F350. The instructions were good, but not perfect. I also watched the YouYube video of a fellow forum member (@DIYRay), which helped a lot.

The first issue I ran into was that the attachment to the SDHQ mounting bracket (driver's side only) actually attached in a way that it touched the windshield when I tightened things down. That was a big NO to deal with. I reseated everything, but ended up with the same situation that when tightening things down it would touch the windshield and I was concerned about a pressure crack of the windshield. I decided to pull the attachment off and used an angle grinder to adjust it to my needs. That seemed to work and so I installed both mounting brackets and attachments on Friday afternoon/evening. I cleaned up everything ready to continue with the Baja Designs LP4 install on Saturday morning.

When I opened the hood on Saturday morning it made a loud bang kinda noise. When I investigated it turned out to be the hood scratching/rubbing on the area of the SDHQ bracket where the logo and the flag are displayed on the bracket. I took everything off and re-adjusted a few times, but while it cleared the windshield, it did not clear the hood. When I closed the hood on Friday night it already rubbed, but I also never opened the hood for testing once I had adjusted the attachment bracket.

After a couple more tries I got the angle grinder out again and removed the portion of the SDHQ mounting bracket that hit the hood. I finally had it all working and so moved on to install the BD LP4 lights. That was a non-event and then I build my own wiring harness as the Baja lights came without one. Overall, this went well, even though I had to remove the windshield wipers and the plastic cover at the outer hood area a few times to feed my cables and the Deutsch connector through.

I used 12 gauge wires, routed the cables to near the upfitter switch fuse box and then merged the cables from the left and right lights into one before connecting it to the upfitter switch #1 wire for power and attached the ground cable appropriately. In between I tested the lights and wiring and this all worked as expected.

During daylight the LP4 lights from Baja Design were already impressive, but when I went outside when it was almost fully dark - holy cow. Those LP4s mean serious business.

I was surprised and then not surprised about the SDHQ mounting brackets (drivers side) and that it was not a 100% fit. We're talking fractions of an inch or better - millimeters here. It really slowed me down and I still have to apply primer and pain to the main area where I shaved metal off to get this to work, but it was a warm day and I am fully exposed to the sun in my driveway that I decided to do that tomorrow.

When I checked out the lights this evening at 90%-95% darkness - holy cow. I can only imagine what "damage" LP6 or LP9 would do. My LP4s put out significantly more light compared to the Morimoto 4Bangers that I had I at my 2022 F250 Tremor.