Clunk/pop Sound in 4WD (sound on)

[AZsurveyor]

It sure looks like the hubs are not sealed well at all.

I was told (news to me) that they are not inteded to be submerged in water for any length of time which if they are part of the wheel, rim, and axle, how does this not apply?!

Guys in wet regions replace their hubs once a year? Or so I was told...

What about rain? I certainly need more education because I am totally lost.

What was your reason for going to the warns over the factory hubs last year?

My stock hubs were trashed and after learning all internals are simply plastic, I opted for the reputable Warn Premium hubs which aren't too premium after all.

Again, my ignorance on this subject has me still looking for answers.

 

[HeavyAssault]

Makes you wonder why those ESOF hubs are getting tossed out. That's crazy gunk!!

 

[BroncOh]

I finally got my Eaton front locker. Haven’t had it installed yet. Where did you end up putting the switch for it? My OCD has me real torn on this

Upfitter switch if you have any left That was my plan. Keeping the stock limited lip diff for now though.

 

[Vecman]

Upfitter switch if you have any left That was my plan. Keeping the stock limited lip diff for now though.

I’m gonna find a spot for their switch to go, or a different aftermarket one. I really want to keep my upfitters for other stuff if I can - not that I have any thoughts for the ones that remain.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Guys so I come to find out that my front end 4wd clunking noise was not solved by replacing the manul hubs.

The shop seems to think ball joints or axle u-joints?

As you can see, I'm trying to climb a small incline while 4L.

Once I look both front and rear axles, I creep up it no problem and I get no clunck (under load).

Thoughts?

 

[4wheels and a hitch]

Now it gets interesting.

 

[OmahaBravo]

Guys so I come to find out that my front end 4wd clunking noise was not solved by replacing the manul hubs.

The shop seems to think ball joints or axle u-joints?

As you can see, I'm trying to climb a small incline while 4L.

Once I look both front and rear axles, I creep up it no problem and I get no clunck (under load).

Thoughts?


View attachment 156343

I wasnt gonna comment at all b/c i have nothing of value to add... but... the shop thinking this is BJs needs to watch this video.
Your truck doesnt appear to move (jostle) much, if any, at all. But maybe theres something about BJs on these trucks i dont know? However, the sound occurs once your front driveshaft starts to spin and frequency appears to be directly correlated to the shafts rpm.

Best of luck. I hope you are able to get this figured out. Not knowing can be very frustrating.

 

[SuperDutyF250]

Thanks for sharing, I literally just read in the manual to avoid water crossing & submerging the hubs. I guess this is the reason they say that... Say if you do go through deep water, what would be the process of maintaining the hubs to prevent corrosion?

 

[AZsurveyor]

I wasnt gonna comment at all b/c i have nothing of value to add... but... the shop thinking this is BJs needs to watch this video.
Your truck doesnt appear to move (jostle) much, if any, at all. But maybe theres something about BJs on these trucks i dont know? However, the sound occurs once your front driveshaft starts to spin and frequency appears to be directly correlated to the shafts rpm.

Best of luck. I hope you are able to get this figured out. Not knowing can be very frustrating.

I drove to the shop the next day and they told me they'd have to tear the entire axle apart to really see what's going on.

I have not returned since due to the fact they'd need it for a few days.

Thanks for sharing, I literally just read in the manual to avoid water crossing & submerging the hubs. I guess this is the reason they say that... Say if you do go through deep water, what would be the process of maintaining the hubs to prevent corrosion?

Pull the hub (three torx bit screws), let it drain (if they've been submerged) and re-grease to the internals. Apply a seal (preferably waterproof) on the outside of the hub where it comes in contact to the axle lip .

 

[BroncOh]

The OEM hubs will vent (designed to) even if you use a seal or RTV around the hub mounting surface. The letters are a diffuser. I do think it will unfortunately let water in and not only let air out.

 

[FuelTankReInforcedSkidPlt]

I would guess something messed up with the e-locker install.

1st video, slow clunk. during the turn the left wheel slowly covers more ground than the right.
2nd video fast clunk. only the left wheel is spinning so quickly covering more ground than the right.

if it were the axle u-joins you should have had the same clunking frequency since the wheel was turned about the same angle in both.

Tire seems to jump forward every click / pause before click, like your e-locker isn't fully disengaging.
If you engage the front locker and repeat the first circle turn are there no clunks?

 

[AZsurveyor]

I would guess something messed up with the e-locker install.

1st video, slow clunk. during the turn the left wheel slowly covers more ground than the right.
2nd video fast clunk. only the left wheel is spinning so quickly covering more ground than the right.

if it were the axle u-joins you should have had the same clunking frequency since the wheel was turned about the same angle in both.

Tire seems to jump forward every click / pause before click, like your e-locker isn't fully disengaging.
If you engage the front locker and repeat the first circle turn are there no clunks?

It does it even without the front locker engaged. Simply in 4H or 4L.

 

[FuelTankReInforcedSkidPlt]

Agreed, does it without the front locker engaged, but does it do it with the front locker locked?

from your 2nd video you said it would crawl up under load and no clunks. I think your front locker isn't fully disengaging and clunks as your applying power with 4wd

 

[AZsurveyor]

Agreed, does it without the front locker engaged, but does it do it with the front locker locked?

from your 2nd video you said it would crawl up under load and no clunks. I think your front locker isn't fully disengaging and clunks as your applying power with 4wd

It does it under both circumstances, locked engaged or disengaged.

I do not disagree with any of your statements and I appreciate all your info and insight.

I’m totally lost at this point and certainly looking for answers.

Shop told me locker works as intended. They tested it so what’s causing the noise??

 

[FuelTankReInforcedSkidPlt]

Well there goes that hypothesis then if it clunks engaged or disengaged.

I'm now invested in what the root cause is. With a clunk that loud there will be shiny surfaces and metal shavings somewhere.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Well there goes that hypothesis then if it clunks engaged or disengaged.

I'm now invested in what the root cause is. With a clunk that loud there will be shiny surfaces and metal shavings somewhere.

You would think it would be an easy diagnosis.

 

[OmahaBravo]

Pop the cover off. Verify its working or at least that there's no glitter in the oil.

 

[FuelTankReInforcedSkidPlt]

Did you end up spinning the axle and drive shaft by hand as HeavyAssault pointed out? You could even do it out in the field if you don't have a jack handy.
Find a place like your 2nd video, where you have some space, reach in and turn the axle by hand with the hubs unlocked, 2WD, and the locker disengaged. With the truck off, you can hear if it's functioning smoothly. Feel for any notchy or grindy.
Then, engage the locker and retest. Next, engage the opposite side hub, and you should be able to twist it just a little back and forth. The axle shaft will feel slightly sloppy in the housing and at the hub, but the U-joints should be solid with no play or hard-to-turn spots.

 

[AZsurveyor]

Did you end up spinning the axle and drive shaft by hand as HeavyAssault pointed out? You could even do it out in the field if you don't have a jack handy.
Find a place like your 2nd video, where you have some space, reach in and turn the axle by hand with the hubs unlocked, 2WD, and the locker disengaged. With the truck off, you can hear if it's functioning smoothly. Feel for any notchy or grindy.
Then, engage the locker and retest. Next, engage the opposite side hub, and you should be able to twist it just a little back and forth. The axle shaft will feel slightly sloppy in the housing and at the hub, but the U-joints should be solid with no play or hard-to-turn spots.

Prior to getting the new hubs last month, I did this exact test, which is when I determined something was bad. The driver side had soo much resistance (hubs unlocked), it was almost "stuck' in the lock position -- in other words the hub had seized in the locked position and would not come to a "free" state even when the hub was turned to the unlock position (they were definitely turning upon further inspection, which led me to take it back to the shop at that point). The passenger side was not as bad but I was getting a terrible whinning noise while rolling down the road. This noise went away once the new hubs were installed. The axles are no longer spinning when the hubs are in the free position as they shouldn't.

I have not done the axle hand test after the new hubs were put on but will follow your instructions and follow up with a report.

Pop the cover off. Verify its working or at least that there's no glitter in the oil.

The shop who replaced my hubs last month popped the diff cover, tested and inspected the locker, functioning as inteded and replaced the gear oil. There was a tiny dab of water in the oil but nothing to be alarmed about (as I was told); my diff breather tube had ripped off (lord only knows when).

All this was addressed and corrected as necessary.

 

[AZsurveyor]

The OEM hubs will vent (designed to) even if you use a seal or RTV around the hub mounting surface. The letters are a diffuser. I do think it will unfortunately let water in and not only let air out.



View attachment 159009

I wonder if Warn have designed their hubs like so?