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I use to play poker with David Olsen down at Stones and over at Thunder. Supposedly worked at the garage in Applegate.
Winter traction devices aka tire chains
- OP 🔹 Deus
- Start date
- Jan 14, 2021
- 971
- 2,533
- USAF Retired
- 21 F250 7.3l Platinum Tremor, Lithium Gray
- 04 Ram 3500, 1150 rwhp, almost stock
I'm sorry, I only know Zach by name. I recognize most though. Especially the grouchy old fat lady.
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I know it's summer, but given supply chain BS I'm wanting to get ahead of things: Anything new on folks having success w/easy-on chains for the stock Tremor tires apart from previous posts? I'm among the WA contingent and ski mostly at the spot in my username and others around, where there ARE chain requirements, regardless of whether they're "needed" or not. The days when there are requirements are when I most want to be up there, so the hell with putting another log on the fire. Not looking for the most beastly performance, but don't want to spend 45m lying on the ground cursing soaked in road slush getting them on. Thanks!
That's funny.
That's where I'm at, too. Real chance I'll have my truck before this ski season and want to be prepared.
I'll take beefy over not if it's still easy to put them on, but if it's a pain I'll go less beefy.
there were some nice beefy chains linked earlier. The trick with all of them is to have installed them a few times so you aren’t learning while having to do it in shit weather
Interesting story. I had a similar question yesterday so I'll ask you experienced folks here. Why have a manual mode for locking the front hubs. @Raspy says here that Auto will disengage at idle. Why does it do that, and what other times will I want to lock the hubs manually?
Auto hubs shouldn't disengage at idle. They are activated via vacuum. As long as the truck is running and creating vacuum, the hubs will be locked (barring a vacuum leak or other failure in the system), so I don't know what Raspy is referring to exactly there? Perhaps they were faulty and therefore would only engage with the engine revved up, creating additional vacuum?
They may disengage if the truck is shut off, though, as it will cease to make vacuum. If there is force on them they may stay engaged, but it's not a guarantee.
The advantage of manual locking hubs is if the auto locking fails for any reason, or if you're going into a bad situation and want a guarantee the hubs won't fail on you, you can manually engage them.
Getting more speculative and less confident with my knowledge: I believe the auto hubs take a quarter tire rotation or so to lock in, so if you need the hubs locked in immediately, manually locking them will do that. This applies when switching from forward to reverse, so they'll briefly disengage in the process if not manually locked in.
FYI the fact Ford's have selectable hubs at all is a win, at least compared to Ram trucks (don't know for sure about GM). With Ram trucks their hubs are permanently engaged and it's the front diff that is engaged/disengaged. Means your front hubs, axles, and some portion of the front diff is always spinning, regardless of 2WD or 4WD.
I run studded snow tires and 1500 lb of weight in the bed and have never had a problem getting around. I do carry these chains but have not had to use them yet. Installation was as easy as any other tire chain once I got them cut to the appropriate length.
tirechain.com
WBS04Bcam 7mm Square Boron with cams, priced per pair $181.46
Tire Chains-Best Snow Chains-TireChains.com
Buy tire chains direct from TireChain.com for the widest selection, free shipping, best quality, and prices. Enhance your traction today!
tirechain.com
WBS04Bcam 7mm Square Boron with cams, priced per pair $181.46
Snow is coming down in CO where we're headed tomorrow and I,
of course, procrastinated. Since time is not of the essence I can
wait it out.
of course, procrastinated. Since time is not of the essence I can
wait it out.
Ok I need to make a decision on chains for this winter. I've decided I'm going to go beefy and just realize I likely can't turn to full lock. Or if I'm going to, make sure I'm going real slow so I can stop quickly. Use cases:
I'm currently debating between two types of chains:
Any thoughts on which to go with? Is it worth going with the 2-link twisted for the front and 4-link square for the back? Something else entirely?
- Simply being present in the truck so the state patrol is happy while going over mountain passes.
- Infrequent use on the highway should the conditions ever get bad enough to actually need to put them on. Unlikely, and hasn't happened yet to me with my old truck, but anything can happen.
- The real place where I could use them: as a part of 4x4 search and rescue. This could result in me using them on snow/ice covered forest roads or back paved roads.
I'm currently debating between two types of chains:
- 2-link twisted: https://tirechain.com/load-range-e-mud-and-k02285-75r18lt-285-75-18-two-link-tire-chains/
- 4-link square: https://tirechain.com/load-range-e-...7mm-square-boron-alloy-tire-chains-with-cams/
Any thoughts on which to go with? Is it worth going with the 2-link twisted for the front and 4-link square for the back? Something else entirely?
I’m doing 7mm squares 4 link variety. I know we’ve been talking about this. I think just be aware of the fact you got chains on and you’re not gonna be hauling ass and turning with chains on anyway so why worry? In the ski area parking lot is the only place you’re probably gonna need full lock anyway.
I could also see it if I'm on a forest road. Either the road itself has a tight turn, or I need to turn around. But I'm probably not going on a road that's too windy if it's bad enough to need chains.
If I need chains in a ski area parking lot something has gone horribly wrong.
I ended up ordering v-bars from tirechains.com. I can’t remember the last time I had chains in a vehicle and needed them. But figured I’d go for max traction and just take it slow and steady.
- Jan 14, 2021
- 971
- 2,533
- USAF Retired
- 21 F250 7.3l Platinum Tremor, Lithium Gray
- 04 Ram 3500, 1150 rwhp, almost stock
I agree with your thoughts on this and given for the most part you are unlikely to use them on normal driving in any case, I would have said just get 4 link for drive axle and be done. But S&R opens a whole other can of worms. 4 wheel chains are a difference maker off road when conditions aren't great like muddy fire roads. It doesn't have to be just for snow. In this case I like your last option of 2 + 4.
Thanks for the thoughts! Good point on them being valuable for more than just snow.
Out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on going 4 link square on all 4 tires vs my proposed 2 link twisted on front and 4 link square on the back?
I've been researching like crazy but can't find 2 link square anywhere, which is what I would ideally use on all 4 corners so they're all matching.
If you are so inclined you can always buy the parts and make your own 2 link square. I personally wouldn’t tackle that task with a short handle chain tool unless you are looking for a major arm workout.
That's definitely not worth the effort lol. Can't imagine the arm workout.
I think you're overthinking it. Just get some chains (any chains) for the rear axle and keep them on board and hope you're never in conditions so bad you'll need to put them on. I think you're splitting hairs trying to decide between this one and that one based on how they will perform or ride, considering you're probably never going to even put them on anyway. I live in the mountains where we get a ton of snow and purposely go driving around in snow storms pulling people back on the road and have yet to ever put mine on. They are very heavy and it's a difficult and dirty job to put them on and take them off. I'd rather not put them on if I can help it.
I rarely see any four wheel drive vehicles with chains on except dedicated plow trucks, loaders, skid steers, and snowblowers. They are the ones that are out removing snow while everybody else is being told to stay off the roads until conditions improve. They need to be driving in the worse conditions every time it snows. Different application than you. Of the people who do put chains on a 4x4 truck, it's 99% only the rear axle. Make sure you have weight in the bed. It makes a HUGE difference!
The highway ride is pretty much irrelevant. You're not supposed to go over 25 MPH with them on (per the instructions that came with mine). If the conditions are so bad that you need chains on, you won't be going faster than 25, nor will anybody else on the road. You need to take them off as soon as the conditions improve anyway. Most mountain passes have a dedicated spot just to install and remove chains. They're miserable to drive with if they're touching the pavement.
Just for the sake of discussion, the law everywhere I've been through is you either need 4x4 and snow rated (M+S) tires OR chains on the drive axle. I've have not yet seen where you are required to have both. I'm not saying this is the case everywhere, but this has been my personal experience in the Sierra and Rockies. If you choose to carry chains in your truck, you may be doing it for your own reasons, not to satisfy an officer that won't let you over a pass. It's still a good idea to carry chains "just incase" if you drive in the snow a lot.
Even 100% stock, these trucks are so much more capable in the snow than most vehicles on the road. They already have a ton more ground clearance compared to just about anything else. Having good tires, 4x4, and weight in the bed will get you further than most vehicles that do have chains installed.
It's unbelievable how many cars I see with nearly bald and/or summer tires on their Subaru, Tesla, or other SUV or car that think can go anywhere in the snow just because its AWD. Anything not 4x4 / AWD is of course worse yet. It's not uncommon to see cars that came up to Tahoe for a vacation and be completely unable to move in the snow, even on flat ground. These are more the vehicles that the chain laws are aimed toward in my opinion. They'll be the ones stuck blocking the road when the hills get steeper and snow gets deeper.
Even 100% stock, these trucks are so much more capable in the snow than most vehicles on the road. They already have a ton more ground clearance compared to just about anything else. Having good tires, 4x4, and weight in the bed will get you further than most vehicles that do have chains installed.
It's unbelievable how many cars I see with nearly bald and/or summer tires on their Subaru, Tesla, or other SUV or car that think can go anywhere in the snow just because its AWD. Anything not 4x4 / AWD is of course worse yet. It's not uncommon to see cars that came up to Tahoe for a vacation and be completely unable to move in the snow, even on flat ground. These are more the vehicles that the chain laws are aimed toward in my opinion. They'll be the ones stuck blocking the road when the hills get steeper and snow gets deeper.
