Who is grabbing the S&S LPK releasing on Aug 7th?

I would be curious to know whether the filter can be removed from the filter head without undoing all the fuel lines? I looks like maybe so with that little pedestal/riser thingy it mounts to, but wasn't clear from any of the videos I've seen yet. If so, this would be worth it to me. All the other "solutions" equally address the potential for filter housing cracks, but unless you go to a full relocation kit (like SPE or HSM) you still have to disconnect the lines to remove the filter (which as others have already pointed out is where most of the leaks start from breaking/not properly reinstalling all the fittings).
I def proceed with caution every time doing the underhood filters. making sure the locks are cleaned and fully removed, then make sure to push in before pulling out (here comes Optimus) and not wrench on it sideways or twist to much. I think I want to do the Fleece main/lower and H&S underhood relocation.
 
I def proceed with caution every time doing the underhood filters. making sure the locks are cleaned and fully removed, then make sure to push in before pulling out (here comes Optimus) and not wrench on it sideways or twist to much.
You rang? 🚨 As the resident expert on pushing in before pulling out, I just want to commend your technique. Clean the area, use plenty of lube, be gentle on the locks, and absolutely no sideways twisting unless you want a catastrophic failure and a lot of crying. Keep up the good work under the hood, soldier. 🫡🛠️
 
Run a group buy on the dcr!
I dont think most folks would actually do it. I think the DCR is a great upgrade but statistically, CP4s work just fine. Big money for folks to spend on something that may never fail.

There are several trucks with nearly $1M miles on their CP4s... But there are also a good load of trucks that have that CP4 implode at sub 50k miles...

Just enough variance in the data to make our (or at least my) dude mind overthink what the hell to do with the fuel pump....

G
 
I dont think most folks would actually do it. I think the DCR is a great upgrade but statistically, CP4s work just fine. Big money for folks to spend on something that may never fail.

There are several trucks with nearly $1M miles on their CP4s... But there are also a good load of trucks that have that CP4 implode at sub 50k miles...

Just enough variance in the data to make our (or at least my) dude mind overthink what the hell to do with the fuel pump....

G
O/T but my thought process is, I plan to install a DPK on the truck as soon as possible and then DCR if/when the CP4 dies.
 
+1 to @Tex_Hunter and @gmoon.

I'm not sure this LPK is really helping things in comparison to the H&S and SPE relocation kits.

H&S: Removing it from under the hood - fixes under hood leaks/fuel spray/etc. It also converts from the plastic canister filter to a spin-in, so that removes the possibility for cheap Chinese filters to be used because a Baldwin/Donaldson etc. Lastly, you don't have to disconnect any fuel lines to change the spin-on filter. Seems to alleviate the 3 issues that could happen.

SPE just removes a fuel filter up front completely. Just a spin-on and you don't have any of those 3 same possibilities either.
 
O/T but my thought process is, I plan to install a DPK on the truck as soon as possible and then DCR if/when the CP4 dies.
has the DPK been proven to truly save everything in that event? Just wondering if it's better to sit on that money a few months longer and just throw the DCR in, assuming a shop is doing both installs and labor for both. can you reuse a DPK after a failure (for you to sell after the fact when you go DCR to recoop some funds)? It's not necessarily money wasted, just causually challenging the thought process.
 
has the DPK been proven to truly save everything in that event? Just wondering if it's better to sit on that money a few months longer and just throw the DCR in, assuming a shop is doing both installs and labor for both. can you reuse a DPK after a failure (for you to sell after the fact when you go DCR to recoop some funds)? It's not necessarily money wasted, just causually challenging the thought process.
According to S&S marketing copy it does... the failure happens in the pump case where the cam interacts with the lifter buckets and the same fuel that lubricates the case is then fed directly into the high pressure side of the pump and out into the rest of the fuel system, so if the cam/rollers fail the contaminated fuel is then fed into the rest of the system. The DPK pulls a separate direct feed of clean fuel to the high pressure side and diverts the case lubrication feed directly back to the tank via the new return filter. So if it fails, the high pressure side continues to supply clean fuel to the rails/injectors and all the shrappnel/contamination from the case is captured in the filter and never makes it back to the tank. Or at least that's how I understand it to work 🤷‍♂️

Your other point is valid if you assume the CP4 failure is not a matter "if" but rather "when". Some people get hundreds of thousands of miles out of their CP4, others barely make it to their second or third oil change. So it's a $400 insurance policy against a failure that may never happen, and if it does eventually then yeah, you're out the $400 for the DPK + the second round of install costs to get the DCR in.
 
Your other point is valid if you assume the CP4 failure is not a matter "if" but rather "when". Some people get hundreds of thousands of miles out of their CP4, others barely make it to their second or third oil change. So it's a $400 insurance policy against a failure that may never happen, and if it does eventually then yeah, you're out the $400 for the DPK + the second round of install costs to get the DCR in.
fair enough i get that! I don't follow the DPK that closely nor know how involved the install may (not) be. Thanks man. I went and pulled the trigger on a DCR two years ago just to be done with it and plenty of headroom for extra fuel should i never need it. I was def in the WHEN not IF bucket. Honestly, some of it stems from powerstroke 6.0l days and it's finiky ass fuel injectors too.
 
I dont think most folks would actually do it. I think the DCR is a great upgrade but statistically, CP4s work just fine. Big money for folks to spend on something that may never fail.

There are several trucks with nearly $1M miles on their CP4s... But there are also a good load of trucks that have that CP4 implode at sub 50k miles...

Just enough variance in the data to make our (or at least my) dude mind overthink what the hell to do with the fuel pump....

G
Couldn’t agree more. ESP since their dpk is so cheap in comparison for the piece of mind. I’d be in absolutely saying all that though 😂
 
fair enough i get that! I don't follow the DPK that closely nor know how involved the install may (not) be. Thanks man. I went and pulled the trigger on a DCR two years ago just to be done with it and plenty of headroom for extra fuel should i never need it. I was def in the WHEN not IF bucket. Honestly, some of it stems from powerstroke 6.0l days and it's finiky ass fuel injectors too.
I put 283k on my 6.Doh with zero problems... Just basic maintenance...

My mechanic told me one day it was about to start costing money so get rid of it. Just the excuse I needed to trade it in....
 
From what I see/read about with the actual manufacturer's web sites (focus on under hood) :
1) H&S (HSM) : They sell a couple of variants. One under-the-hood kit keeps the upper filter, another kit relocates the upper filter to under the truck.
>> Nothing special all-in-all, just a spin on filter. Relies on the OE under hood connection clips.

2) SPE Motorsports : They went all in to remove the under hood filter to relocate under the truck. Not to mention they drop the OE water separator moving to a CAT filter.
>> Still relies on the OE under hood connections. Forces owners to move to CAT filters.

3) S&S Diesel Motorsports : Does the same dance with under the hood.
>> Well.....still uses the under the hood OE connectors with a spin-on filter, owners to use Donaldson filter.

4) Fleece Diesel : Offers two different products for under the hood, and under the truck.
>> Here we go again.....uses under the hood OE connections and Donaldson filters. Under the bed kit replaces OE water separator with Donaldson filters.


So what I read is this : If you can't seat the OE connectors properly on the OE upper filter, you sure as shit can't seat them on the aftermarket kits.

I've had one fellow owner (2019 DRW) reach out to me where he had the under hood connection come loose. Asked me all about these kits....I asked him HOW did the connection come loose. Short version guess what......He had JUST CHANGED the fuel filters. Most likely HE didn't seat the upper connection properly, but JUST enough to seal it and use the locking clip to APPEAR it was attached properly. In the end I can't say if he bought any of the kits as described above, but he sure as shit learned that getting those fittings to seat properly is KEY to less stress.

Buy what you want, it's your truck. I'm not saying these kits aren't quality, or don't provide good filtration. They do provide a margin of added "protection" which we could discuss over PLENTY of variables that could be the source of the "problems".

:cool: :cool: :coffee: :coffee: 🇺🇲 🇺🇲 🇺🇲 🇺🇲
 
From what I see/read about with the actual manufacturer's web sites (focus on under hood) :
1) H&S (HSM) : They sell a couple of variants. One under-the-hood kit keeps the upper filter, another kit relocates the upper filter to under the truck.
>> Nothing special all-in-all, just a spin on filter. Relies on the OE under hood connection clips.

2) SPE Motorsports : They went all in to remove the under hood filter to relocate under the truck. Not to mention they drop the OE water separator moving to a CAT filter.
>> Still relies on the OE under hood connections. Forces owners to move to CAT filters.

3) S&S Diesel Motorsports : Does the same dance with under the hood.
>> Well.....still uses the under the hood OE connectors with a spin-on filter, owners to use Donaldson filter.

4) Fleece Diesel : Offers two different products for under the hood, and under the truck.
>> Here we go again.....uses under the hood OE connections and Donaldson filters. Under the bed kit replaces OE water separator with Donaldson filters.


So what I read is this : If you can't seat the OE connectors properly on the OE upper filter, you sure as shit can't seat them on the aftermarket kits.

I've had one fellow owner (2019 DRW) reach out to me where he had the under hood connection come loose. Asked me all about these kits....I asked him HOW did the connection come loose. Short version guess what......He had JUST CHANGED the fuel filters. Most likely HE didn't seat the upper connection properly, but JUST enough to seal it and use the locking clip to APPEAR it was attached properly. In the end I can't say if he bought any of the kits as described above, but he sure as shit learned that getting those fittings to seat properly is KEY to less stress.

Buy what you want, it's your truck. I'm not saying these kits aren't quality, or don't provide good filtration. They do provide a margin of added "protection" which we could discuss over PLENTY of variables that could be the source of the "problems".

:cool: :cool: :coffee: :coffee: 🇺🇲 🇺🇲 🇺🇲 🇺🇲
I just installed the SPE kit, you can use other filters besides the CAT filters. I verified with them before I bought it.
 
From what I see/read about with the actual manufacturer's web sites (focus on under hood) :
1) H&S (HSM) : They sell a couple of variants. One under-the-hood kit keeps the upper filter, another kit relocates the upper filter to under the truck.
>> Nothing special all-in-all, just a spin on filter. Relies on the OE under hood connection clips.

2) SPE Motorsports : They went all in to remove the under hood filter to relocate under the truck. Not to mention they drop the OE water separator moving to a CAT filter.
>> Still relies on the OE under hood connections. Forces owners to move to CAT filters.

3) S&S Diesel Motorsports : Does the same dance with under the hood.
>> Well.....still uses the under the hood OE connectors with a spin-on filter, owners to use Donaldson filter.

4) Fleece Diesel : Offers two different products for under the hood, and under the truck.
>> Here we go again.....uses under the hood OE connections and Donaldson filters. Under the bed kit replaces OE water separator with Donaldson filters.


So what I read is this : If you can't seat the OE connectors properly on the OE upper filter, you sure as shit can't seat them on the aftermarket kits.

I've had one fellow owner (2019 DRW) reach out to me where he had the under hood connection come loose. Asked me all about these kits....I asked him HOW did the connection come loose. Short version guess what......He had JUST CHANGED the fuel filters. Most likely HE didn't seat the upper connection properly, but JUST enough to seal it and use the locking clip to APPEAR it was attached properly. In the end I can't say if he bought any of the kits as described above, but he sure as shit learned that getting those fittings to seat properly is KEY to less stress.

Buy what you want, it's your truck. I'm not saying these kits aren't quality, or don't provide good filtration. They do provide a margin of added "protection" which we could discuss over PLENTY of variables that could be the source of the "problems".

:cool: :cool: :coffee: :coffee: 🇺🇲 🇺🇲 🇺🇲 🇺🇲

I agree - none of these really address the fuel filter connections. That seems to be the most problematic area with the upper fuel filter. But all 4 of these options don't address that.

I wonder if someone would create fuel lines/connector kit that uses a metal connection to improve the above options?
 
I just installed the SPE kit, you can use other filters besides the CAT filters. I verified with them before I bought it.
I got the same kit, at my next fuel filter change I'm going to put in Donaldson filters that are shorter than the long Cat filters. My Cat fuel filter keeps rubbing against the edge of my fuel tank skid plate, so I'm hoping with the shorter filters it will alleviate that issue.
I agree - none of these really address the fuel filter connections. That seems to be the most problematic area with the upper fuel filter. But all 4 of these options don't address that.

I wonder if someone would create fuel lines/connector kit that uses a metal connection to improve the above options?
With my SPE kit, as long as you attach the connectors correctly the first time, you will not need to mess with them again so it's less amount of times you have to mess with it. I do think it would be nice to get metal or improved connectors for it.
 
@swervo when you switch to Donaldson, are you going to use a bowl attachment as well like this?
 
Mine is very close to rubbing also. Which Donaldson filters do you plan on using?
I have them saved in my Amazon cart lol. I found the part numbers on this forum
 

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I got the same kit, at my next fuel filter change I'm going to put in Donaldson filters that are shorter than the long Cat filters. My Cat fuel filter keeps rubbing against the edge of my fuel tank skid plate, so I'm hoping with the shorter filters it will alleviate that issue.

With my SPE kit, as long as you attach the connectors correctly the first time, you will not need to mess with them again so it's less amount of times you have to mess with it. I do think it would be nice to get metal or improved connectors for it.
+1 for this. Installed the SPE. I could change filters without even opening the hood. It cleans up the engine bay nicely as well. I'm sure it's quality product as I'm very happy with my S&S DPK.
 
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