Who has a 7.3 and experienced the "misfire" plug wire concern or not please leave feedback

[Gas Guzzler]

Yes
2022 August 2021 build, light driving to and from work (10 miles away), rpm low 2-3 range. No towing

 

[Gas Guzzler]

Yes
2022 August 2021 build, light driving to and from work (10 miles away), rpm low 2-3 range. No towing

 

[Tx-Tremor6.7]

Your sheet indicates a plug wire not being connected at the factory. This sounds like a different issue.

 

[Gas Guzzler]

Your sheet indicates a plug wire not being connected at the factory. This sounds like a different issue.

I’m not sure I believe it. Seems like it would have shown up right away instead of 1000 miles later.

 

[Boom]

Does anyone have the cylinder order diagram?

 

[Jrod250]

Ford's New 7.3L Godzilla Engine Looks Poised to be Next Big Thing in Hotrodding

Our pal Evan Smith gives you an in-depth look at Ford's impressive 7.3L "Godzilla" engine, pushrods & all. Check out this video series here.

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[TremorGuest6137]

FWIW on my company F150 I had a bad coil at 48k that caused loss of power, misfire, surging under load etc but it never threw a code. Had to really dig with the shops scan tool to find suggestion on that cylinder but no clear code. Lots of info out there on replacing the coils on the F150 eco boost which brings superior power on the dyno.

I assume lots of cheaply manufactured parts coming from China etc, and our shop said even Cummins can't get DPFs and other parts outside of the well known Chip shortages caused by China only allotting the US with 80% of what our market requires. We all know the supply chain is a mess right now.

Good info here thanks.

 

[TremorGuest6137]

Issue is talked about here as well... not liking the new normal ha

 

[KILLAZILLA]

Does anyone have the cylinder order diagram?

I don't have a drawing. But, 1-4 are passenger side, front to back and 5-8 driver side, front to back. I found out this when I called dealer after p302 code and luckily I had a spare wire that I swapped out on side of Mountain towing my TH, went into limp mode up a steep/sketchy roadway...THANKS FORD. $70k and QC SUCKS to the point of NOT even being able to correctly do something with this problem and issue a TSB for us F series owners. Get your shit together or you'll soon lose ALL your repeat customers.

 

[KILLAZILLA]

Here is the elusive "C" wire I just got today. Supposedly the motor home wire.View attachment 34140

Dealer saying the replacement for 2020 A wire builds are the B. Wonder if they're just trying to go through their inventory of those if they're shit before changing it to the C version?
I'll be contacting them soon and letting them know how I feel. Not that they really care as they aren't making it right, yet, as far as putting out a TSB. Going into limp mode on side of mountain while heavy towing SURE isn't safe and should be something like a QC issue to cause such.

Maybe I'll just get the C wires and pray??? If I get reimbursed then ok thanks, I guess.
Next problem is the baffle(trimming) and engine bay heat cooking both my stock batteries...OPTIMA batteries for replacement??? Doubt they'll cover or admit that one.

 

[KILLAZILLA]

So the wires in the photo from @NDfan131 looks slightly different from the “C” wires for a motorhome that @Trapper posted. The WR6164 appears to have a 90 degree boot but the LC3Z-12286-C has a 60 degree boot.
View attachment 34153
On another note, my rocket scientist father-in-law was probably right that it’s caused by excessive heat generated at higher RPM’s. As stated above the 7.3L has a modulating Ignition Coil that generates up to 46,000 volts. Makes sense that as RPM increases, voltage increases and heat increases. My failures all appear to be from the inside at the connector. The A plug was completely sealed which would hold in heat. These new plug wires are “vented”. Looks like Ford’s series of “Punishing Tests” were preformed by the “Owners QA Department”. “Test to Failure” is when they crap out on the Ike pulling you trailer

Definitely RPM/heat related. Plug wire shitting out trying to pass the voltage from coil to pkug. Only time I'm getting the flashing cel is while WOT getting the cob webs out. Had to clear it 2x after it stayed lit. I'm running the massive wires currently while trying to figure out if I should let dealer handle it or diy. They want to keep my truck a day or 2 and that's NOT happening. Last time I brought it there someone must have went for a joyride putting 30+ miles on it and didn't even fix my issues, one being a tire out if balance.
Rather NOT swap out massive wires for the bad stock A wires just to have them put the "B"wires if those are bad as well. It was enough pita swapping the 1 wire and after doing all 8 its REALLY NOT something I'm looking forward on doing again. Least not till it's really that "time" 60k, 100k???

Anyone know the best remedy. Go with the C wires or are B wires holding up?

Thanks and sorry for ranting. This just really sucks.

 

[tremur]

No issue yet, Build date of 9/4/22 2K miles. Towed a 7K camper once so far, up and down a hilly stretch of Pocono highway in PA in early October.

 

[Rooster]

No issue yet, Build date of 9/4/22 2K miles. Towed a 7K camper once so far, up and down a hilly stretch of Pocono highway in PA in early October.

Did your 22 come with the C wires?

 

[tremur]

Did your 22 come with the C wires?

I don't know enough about the wires to know. What would I look for?

 

[Rooster]

I don't know enough about the wires to know. What would I look for?

Haha either do I think I saw on here the C have a metal shielding around the boot

I don't know enough about the wires to know. What would I look for?

page 3 post #46 in this thread I believe shows the rv/c wire. Hoping it’s resolved mine will be built next month

 

[NDfan131]

MY22 F250 built 07/26/2021 and shipped with the c wires. 4600 miles with approx. 700 miles of towing 7,000 lbs. some of which was up decent grades. No issues to report. Probably didn’t need them but purchased a couple of spare c’s to throw under the rear seat.

 

[tremur]

Haha either do I think I saw on here the C have a metal shielding around the boot

page 3 post #46 in this thread I believe shows the rv/c wire. Hoping it’s resolved mine will be built next month

Looks like I do not have the C. Has anyone confirmed the C doesn't go bad?

 

[Rooster]

Looks like I do not have the C. Has anyone confirmed the C doesn't go bad?

seems odd that NDfan311 has him and his was built before yours, maybe they found a cheaper one will last til the warranty expires

 

[Rooster]

I’m not sure I believe it. Seems like it would have shown up right away instead of 1000 miles later.

Helps you understand why their motto isn't Quality is Job #1 anymore

 

[KILLAZILLA]

seems odd that NDfan311 has him and his was built before yours, maybe they found a cheaper one will last til the warranty expires

C is under $10 and B is $18.
I'm still trying to decide to go with b or c or let dealer try to jerk me around and their replacement calls for B, if they're able to have ford cover and swap them.
Supply and demand of B vs. C. Or B are made better? C looks better to me. But, with the offset would it be closer or further from headers and/or harder to snap in?

Thinking I'll bring it in and see what they say. Especially since I swapped the Massive wire back to stock A ones.
Have to get a couple new batteries that are leaking anyhow.