What if in place of the bolt you had a separate piece that screwed into the bottom portion(where the bolt goes through so that piece would be internally threaded) and sat flat against that metal? In the shape of a “T” or “+” to make install and removal easy?
Water Intrusion to Fuse Box - Whiteface Ford
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That was actually the first idea that came to mind, but I don't know how well the 3D printed threads would hold up over time. With the pin it goes on and off in seconds.
Fair enough. Just a thought.
That looks perfect! It’s amazing how you guys can design stuff like this so quickly! What material did you use to print it and when can I buy a print file from you?
- Sep 12, 2025
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- 2023 F350 6.7L HOe CCSB, Lariat Ultimate Tremor, Carbonized Grey Metallic
- 1987 Mustang GT Vert 5MT, Medium Cabernet
Woah where did you get the engine bay model?
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That looks OEM. I like it!
This is something we all need. I am in.
Some of you guys are pure genius...kinda brings a tear to an old Boomer's eye knowing the era of baling wire and duct tape with a bucket of monkey shit repairs are fading away.
Don’t throw out the bucket of money shit just yet!
Tossing ideas out…..
Instead of a lynch pin, could you just use a plastic panel retainer? I know they have them with 3/4” heads. If that would cover the hole.
Or, use a clip nut on the shield and run a wafer head cap screw through a plastic (for abrasion and vibration) washer.
Don't worry. If the 3D prints fail, we can repair them with the bailing wire and duct tape
Alright, one of you 3D printer guys DM me some advice on what a good printer to start with would be.
This is third time it seems having one might be handy, so...
This is third time it seems having one might be handy, so...
Bambu Lab, hands down. Closest you'll get to appliance-level ease of use without sacrificing functionality.
The link below might help, but I'd start with at least a P2S. Spend more on an H2S or H2D if you plan to do larger functional parts or higher temp materials - they both have a heated chamber to help reduce warping. H2D is dual-nozzle which allows for some cool stuff like water-soluble support material and multi-material or multi-color prints without a bunch of filament swaps.
If I had to pick one for you that you wouldn't outgrow in a year, it would be the H2S. If you want one and done, H2D. If you want something cheap to play with and test your interest, P2S.
Shop from the World's Most Chosen 3D Printer Brand | Bambu Lab US Store
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us.store.bambulab.com
Just adding:
Or even a rubber well nut inserted in a hole on the part, then a wafer head cap screw from the top.
Looking for a $1 solution, here's your answer:
Credit: Social media
Disclaimer: not my idea or rig
Results: genius
Credit: Social media
Disclaimer: not my idea or rig
Results: genius
Last edited:
Are you done yet? lol
Hell, one in black and it’s good!
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