Uncomfortable Tow

[mrmag00]

Will see what happens got the sway bar installed and some timberns for the first trip next week. Think we should be fine but coming from a hippie (DRW) should be interesting to see how it goes only 300 miles so short time. Had a great helper today. What a fantastic time with our middle grandson.

 

[Mwchris]

A part came in for camper so ran it up to have it installed. Below are a few pictures.

The first is with the WDH disconnected.

The second is with the WDH connected.

Below is the troubleshooting steps from the Blue Ox manual.

It looks like the trailer and truck are not level in either situation. I intend to make the following adjustments in this order.

1) Tighten the WDH up one link at a time to see if it levels the trailer and truck.

2) Move ball up 1-2 spots and check for level again. Possibly going back to step one adding links to adjust. The only concern here is the trailer can barely lift high enough for the ball as it is. I know add blocks. The issue is with leveling when camping sometimes the nose needs to be lower and that complicated things, when it is on blocks.

Of note, I also upgraded the hitch to a 2.5” to get rid of the sleeve. I also ordered a Sway Bar, but am going to hold off on installing as I don’t have any problems with sway except when towing and would prefer to not add if I don’t have to.

Open to suggestions and feedback.

 

[Shotgun]

How was your tow after adjustments? Also, be careful of trying to make things level. Sometimes when you do that, then you get too much weight on front of truck and rear of trailer.

 

[Modman]

A part came in for camper so ran it up to have it installed. Below are a few pictures.

The first is with the WDH disconnected.
View attachment 213732


The second is with the WDH connected.
View attachment 213733

Below is the troubleshooting steps from the Blue Ox manual.


View attachment 213734

It looks like the trailer and truck are not level in either situation. I intend to make the following adjustments in this order.

1) Tighten the WDH up one link at a time to see if it levels the trailer and truck.

2) Move ball up 1-2 spots and check for level again. Possibly going back to step one adding links to adjust. The only concern here is the trailer can barely lift high enough for the ball as it is. I know add blocks. The issue is with leveling when camping sometimes the nose needs to be lower and that complicated things, when it is on blocks.

Of note, I also upgraded the hitch to a 2.5” to get rid of the sleeve. I also ordered a Sway Bar, but am going to hold off on installing as I don’t have any problems with sway except when towing and would prefer to not add if I don’t have to.

Open to suggestions and feedback.

Zooming in on the truck itself it doesn't look that much different in attitude before and after. Measure the clearance at the front

1) w/o the trailer
2) w/ trailer but w/o the WDH.

This will give you a reference of how much distribution you are adding. Shoot for 50%. Some find it easier to measure from the hub center to get more consistency. I used blue painters tape on the fender and marked a line which also helped:

Post in thread 'Tremors and Campers let's talk camping!!' https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/tremors-and-campers-lets-talk-camping.1036/post-258477

 

[Modman]

@Mwchris the other change I have been pleased with are the Timbren SES "bump stops"

Tremors and Campers let's talk camping!!

No question Olivers are high quality, especially for their price point. I just wish they had a more off-road capable unit and I'm not wild about their floor plans. When I win the lottery I'm buying a Kimberley. Still happy with our Outdoors RV. It lacks in quality in terms of appliances but...

www.fordtremor.com

Here is a good before/after. The front is still roughly at 50% but the squat has been drastically reduced in the rear:

Tremors and Campers let's talk camping!!

No question Olivers are high quality, especially for their price point. I just wish they had a more off-road capable unit and I'm not wild about their floor plans. When I win the lottery I'm buying a Kimberley. Still happy with our Outdoors RV. It lacks in quality in terms of appliances but...

www.fordtremor.com

I have also taken my setup over the scales and confirmed everything with actual weights.

 

[The Evil Twin]

A part came in for camper so ran it up to have it installed. Below are a few pictures.

The first is with the WDH disconnected.
View attachment 213732


The second is with the WDH connected.
View attachment 213733

Below is the troubleshooting steps from the Blue Ox manual.


View attachment 213734

It looks like the trailer and truck are not level in either situation. I intend to make the following adjustments in this order.

1) Tighten the WDH up one link at a time to see if it levels the trailer and truck.

2) Move ball up 1-2 spots and check for level again. Possibly going back to step one adding links to adjust. The only concern here is the trailer can barely lift high enough for the ball as it is. I know add blocks. The issue is with leveling when camping sometimes the nose needs to be lower and that complicated things, when it is on blocks.

Of note, I also upgraded the hitch to a 2.5” to get rid of the sleeve. I also ordered a Sway Bar, but am going to hold off on installing as I don’t have any problems with sway except when towing and would prefer to not add if I don’t have to.

Open to suggestions and feedback.

Couple quick thoughts:
Don't use the chains to level anything. They are for weight distribution.
Moving the ball up a hole or 2 (que Optimus) was a first thought when I saw the photos.. A nose down trailer will be light on the rear trailer axle. As said by others, use tape and a pen to measure from (top of tire, hub, whatever) to the fender. If the front of the truck goes up 2" with the trailer connected and no spring bars, connecting the spring bars should bring the nose of the truck down 1".
I know blocks are a pain. You can use a bottle jack to lift the tongue and remove a block. Yeah, that's not ideal, but I have been there. You should have a 12k jack for tire changes anyway. So wood is the expense.
Good choice in the ball mount. It may not solve anything, but it's the right way to start out.
Keep us posted. There is a solution.

 

[SuperDutyF250]

A part came in for camper so ran it up to have it installed. Below are a few pictures.

The first is with the WDH disconnected.
View attachment 213732


The second is with the WDH connected.
View attachment 213733

Below is the troubleshooting steps from the Blue Ox manual.


View attachment 213734

It looks like the trailer and truck are not level in either situation. I intend to make the following adjustments in this order.

1) Tighten the WDH up one link at a time to see if it levels the trailer and truck.

2) Move ball up 1-2 spots and check for level again. Possibly going back to step one adding links to adjust. The only concern here is the trailer can barely lift high enough for the ball as it is. I know add blocks. The issue is with leveling when camping sometimes the nose needs to be lower and that complicated things, when it is on blocks.

Of note, I also upgraded the hitch to a 2.5” to get rid of the sleeve. I also ordered a Sway Bar, but am going to hold off on installing as I don’t have any problems with sway except when towing and would prefer to not add if I don’t have to.

Open to suggestions and feedback.

It looks like you need to lift your truck or get a raised hitch as opposed to a drop hitch. I think no matter what you do the facts are the trailer frame is taller than your truck. Without both being the same height it will always look that way

 

[F350Dan]

 

[Mwchris]

I made some adjustments and believe I am just about there. This is absolutely a WDH/loading issue as several of you pointed out.

I forget how much work I put into getting my old set-up dialed in and just needed to take the time to make some adjustments. Oh, and find some level ground.

While I am appreciative of the help and support of the members here, some of the "help" is severely misplaced and/or just flat out wrong. And, perhaps more importantly, there is no reason any of us should have to purchase additional hardware/components outside of a WDH (That Ford says is required for certain size trailers) to tow safely within the requirements that it is advertised to handle. That doesn't mean those additional purchases don't make things "better," my point is they should not be required.

I will follow-up in the coming weeks when I take it for some longer tows.

 

[Camarox2]

Glad to hear you’re getting it all dialed in. Now head over & get some chili to celebrate!

Beans, no beans, your choice!

 

[Optimus🤖]

Couple quick thoughts:
Don't use the chains to level anything. They are for weight distribution.
Moving the ball up a hole or 2 (que Optimus) was a first thought when I saw the photos.. A nose down trailer will be light on the rear trailer axle. As said by others, use tape and a pen to measure from (top of tire, hub, whatever) to the fender. If the front of the truck goes up 2" with the trailer connected and no spring bars, connecting the spring bars should bring the nose of the truck down 1".
I know blocks are a pain. You can use a bottle jack to lift the tongue and remove a block. Yeah, that's not ideal, but I have been there. You should have a 12k jack for tire changes anyway. So wood is the expense.
Good choice in the ball mount. It may not solve anything, but it's the right way to start out.
Keep us posted. There is a solution.

Holes, tongue, nose, tape, and chains...there's so much going on I love it!

 

[KingTremor]

My 2008 f350 KingRanch had a fair amount of sway while towing though it had sway bars. Rear air springs eliminated this completely. On my 2024 f350 Tremor I installed air springs before ever attempting to tow anything. When I did first tow a 25 ft. enclosed trailer at around 10,000 lbs. I experienced quite a bit of sway until I had adjusted the air spring pressure up adequately. After that it was very smooth. I installed Firestone air springs and I've had good luck with them in the past, but in retrospect I would go with the Logiq brand. I bought their onboard compressor and the quality is phenomenal, and all he reviews I've read on the airbags say the same. Personally, I would argue that adding the rear sway bar will take away from the off-roading experience, but if towing is your priority, it may be worth it. Definitely double checking the load balance on the distribution hitch is smart as suggested.