Transmission Fluid Change

So there's been legitimate dialog in this thread or another of a similar topic... of aftermarket pan depth affecting ground clearance. A very valid reason for any back-and-forth.

Again, the PPE cast aluminum pan is quite stout, can strengthen the trans case as well, and at least for the Godzilla variant leaving clearance for the dual exhaust catalysts - plus - not being as deep as the diesel variant of the pan is really something to consider. I've already purchased one and it will be going on the truck very soon.

So while surfing YouTube during my afternoon cup of coffee, another Whiteface Customs' YT Short appeared. Jon is looking for reasonable skid protection of the liquid-to-liquid trans heat exchanger:

 
Apples said:
So there's been legitimate dialog in this thread or another of a similar topic... of aftermarket pan depth affecting ground clearance. A very valid reason for any back-and-forth.

Again, the PPE cast aluminum pan is quite stout, can strengthen the trans case as well, and at least for the Godzilla variant leaving clearance for the dual exhaust catalysts - plus - not being as deep as the diesel variant of the pan is really something to consider. I've already purchased one and it will be going on the truck very soon.

So while surfing YouTube during my afternoon cup of coffee, another Whiteface Customs' YT Short appeared. Jon is looking for reasonable skid protection of the liquid-to-liquid trans heat exchanger:

Click to expand...
If that dood were on FT.c he would know that Talon has what he needs!
talonsgarage.com

Ford F-250 | Engine & Transmission Skid Plate | 2020-2025 | 6.7L Diese

This plate is only designed to fit the 2020-2025 F-250 with the 6.7L Diesel Engine with a 4x4 drive train. Our plates are designed to function as off-road transmission skid and catalytic converter protection plates.
talonsgarage.com
 
I just got my PPE pan and thinking about tackling mine tomorrow, in my driveway.
I’m hoping nothing goes wrong.
 
^ ^ ^ May you have a trouble-free installation, my good man.

Have ye a fresh gasket? I don't know if I want to use the paper gasket sent w/ the pan... although it looks well-made enough.
 
20251115_081612.webp

This, and the drill bit, made the job easier. Have fun. I thought it was pretty easy with the pan empty.
 
If you think the 6.7/10R140 is hard you should see the procedure for a 3.5 or 5L F150. I did my 6.7, thought it was cake. Offered to do my dads 3.5 F150. You get to pull the sway bar and disconnect the front cooler, which still stays in place just enough that you get to fight it the whole time you're trying to lower the pan. I'd rather do five F250 jobs instead of one F150 job.

Also, you can reuse the gasket.
 
What’s the torque for the filter bolts?
 
Apples said:
I went whole hog with the entire valvebody.

I am so spread out with project debris I no longer have a legit workbench for something like a valvbody disassembly. Too, way back in the day Ford C4 and AOD valvebodys were relatively straightforward.

I've seen too much of the internals, the checkballs, the springs, the array of electronic servos to want to tackle a 10R40 vb right now to install the NextGen kit.

I wanted a "blueprinted", high-quality rendition of the most important part of these trans'. Everything emanates from there. As we're aware but often take for granted, transmission function control begins in the (now-) digitally-controlled electro/hydraulic brain known as the valvebody. This is important to me; how my trans shifts, etc... it's a big deal. Some folks could care less as long as the truck runs and drives and gets 'em home again. I can't fault that.
Click to expand...
I agree 100% please let us know what you think of the Nextgen valve body. I’m on the fence between a Nextgen and Suncoast valve body. Suncoast was great with my 6.0 . But Nextgen might be better on the 6.7 , I can’t wait to see your results.
 
^ ^ ^ Thank you duckhunter for your support. Hope to get r' done (now that I realize the T-givin' holiday) during the first or second week of December. NextGen valvebody swap, Motorcraft filter, any other Motorcraft expendible parts (there were two add'l in the 6R80), gasket PPE pan and a significant quantity of ULV.


MIKE! Thanks for the photos. Looks like a sanitary job.

How was filling through the cast standpipe? (for those not familiar, PPE sends a screw-in, barbed fitting for hoseborne atf fill, then there's a screw in plug when completed) and did you do this job in your garage or driveway? I'm so tempted to try because I'm one damn fussy s.o.b. about my gear. I'm cursed.
 
I used a set of ramps to lift the front, I just needed more space since the PPE pan is pretty heavy and I did it in my driveway.
I didn’t use the standpipe since the hose from the pump that I have didn’t fit the barbed fitting, I filled it the regular way.
 
Apples said:
^ ^ ^ Thank you duckhunter for your support. Hope to get r' done (now that I realize the T-givin' holiday) during the first or second week of December. NextGen valvebody swap, Motorcraft filter, any other Motorcraft expendible parts (there were two add'l in the 6R80), gasket PPE pan and a significant quantity of ULV.


MIKE! Thanks for the photos. Looks like a sanitary job.

How was filling through the cast standpipe? (for those not familiar, PPE sends a screw-in, barbed fitting for hoseborne atf fill, then there's a screw in plug when completed) and did you do this job in your garage or driveway? I'm so tempted to try because I'm one damn fussy s.o.b. about my gear. I'm cursed.
Click to expand...
I thought there was an actual fill port on the 10r. Or did it get deleted somewhere along the way? I see a bolt head on the driver side of mine. I just can't recall all the info in transmission threads 😂
 
Well that's not awesome for me 😂
 
I'll look again, but I believe the 26 is without.
 
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