Pompey’s F350 Being (Re) Manufactured

Yes. They source their trucks through Performax. have you dealt with them? Were you looking for another spare?

The cops will love you if you go for a 4 inch lift won’t they? Are you going to get flares for your guards? I imagine they’d stick out otherwise. I was looking at getting some flares from tough trucks but have gone cold on the idea now.
Well I was thinking if I go a 4” lift it would actually only net 2.5”
Of lift as tremors are lifted 1.5” already so remove that then add 4”
And 37’s would also be legal so I’m thinking I’d be sweet and on The stock rims too. Car parks would be a different story though!

Yeah I’ve been to tough trucks not bought anything yet was looking at their bds dsc coil over fox lifts they carry aswell
 
Well I was thinking if I go a 4” lift it would actually only net 2.5”
Of lift as tremors are lifted 1.5” already so remove that then add 4”
And 37’s would also be legal so I’m thinking I’d be sweet and on The stock rims too. Car parks would be a different story though!

Yeah I’ve been to tough trucks not bought anything yet was looking at their bds dsc coil over fox lifts they carry aswell
Buyer beware is my advice dealing with them.

I am currently wiring in my UHF CB and driving lights. I’ve mounted the microphone, but it’s going to be an effort making it tidy running the microphone cable. I’ve mounted the CB to a bracket near the brake pedal, and run the power cable to the fuse box and earthed the black wire. That’s as far as I’ve got on that front.

with the driving lights, I’ve mounted the relay, run the power wire to upfitter switch 1 and run the output wire through to under the bonnet latch. That’s as far as I’ve gone so far with the lights.
 
Yeah nice I went with the game xrs 370c and mounted the unit under the panel below steering wheel and then in the right hand side kick panel (aus drivers side) I found the acc wire after some googling and testing out which one I’ll have to find the Google again was quite easy in the end and then my
Microphone I’ve got a socket just under near the foot brake pedal where I remove when not using and store in a cover in my console I’m happy with it nice and discreet.

I’ve fitted my kc highlights roof rack and stedi 50” curved light bar just got to fit and wire up side lights now I will post some pics once all complete but I’ve slowed up a bit after fracturing my ankle and on my dirt bike
 
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A little pic so far
 
View attachment 37877View attachment 37878View attachment 37877Found some pics I took I opted for the on glass antennae too and so far happy with it
This is where I’m at with the CB. It’s hard to make out where I have mounted the CB. You should be able to see the Australian made logo on the case of the radio. It’s to the left of the brake pedal about half way up. The microphone mount is stuck with double side tape to the dash,
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with a magnetic catch for the microphone.
 
This is where I’m at with the CB. It’s hard to make out where I have mounted the CB. You should be able to see the Australian made logo on the case of the radio. It’s to the left of the brake pedal about half way up. The microphone mount is stuck with double side tape to the dash, View attachment 37946View attachment 37947with a magnetic catch for the microphone.
Ohh yep nice did you manage to find the acc wire in that right hand kick panel ?
 
This is where I found my info and found the pto pig tail harness on the right kick. I had to move away the conversion wiring to get to the bundled wire but once I did it’s labelled and your looking for the green with orange strip it’s 5a rated perfect for a dash cam or cb radio like ours


Might have to copy and paste the link into a browser to watch the YouTube video of it it’s the first 2mins worth
 
This is where I found my info and found the pto pig tail harness on the right kick. I had to move away the conversion wiring to get to the bundled wire but once I did it’s labelled and your looking for the green with orange strip it’s 5a rated perfect for a dash cam or cb radio like ours


Might have to copy and paste the link into a browser to watch the YouTube video of it it’s the first 2mins worth
Cheers. I’ll give it a go.
 
Yeah nice I went with the game xrs 370c and mounted the unit under the panel below steering wheel and then in the right hand side kick panel (aus drivers side) I found the acc wire after some googling and testing out which one I’ll have to find the Google again was quite easy in the end and then my
Microphone I’ve got a socket just under near the foot brake pedal where I remove when not using and store in a cover in my console I’m happy with it nice and discreet.

I’ve fitted my kc highlights roof rack and stedi 50” curved light bar just got to fit and wire up side lights now I will post some pics once all complete but I’ve slowed up a bit after fracturing my ankle and on my dirt bike
Looks great. Curious as to why you went with Stedi on the light bar over something from Baja Designs, Diode Dynamics, etc.
 
Looks great. Curious as to why you went with Stedi on the light bar over something from Baja Designs, Diode Dynamics, etc.
Only because stedi is readily available in Australia and they have great products on hand versus trying to ship more parts in from the states and the curved light bar is really good even has DRL inside of it aswell
 
I’ve now ordered an Air Safe hitch. It won’t arrive till the end of February. In keeping with the American/Australian content of truck, this is also made in the US. The caravan and it’s coupling, are made in Australia. It’s in keeping with my view that the US makes the best tow vehicles and Australia makes the best off-road caravans. Very little of what I am getting is made in China, at least as far as whole components go.

The bullbar, UHF CB, long range fuel tank, ARB air pump and pure sine wave inverter are or will be Australian made. The canopy is made in the US.
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Over the last 2 days I’ve started ordering to fit out the tub for travelling. I’ve ordered a slide out drawer and a drawer fridge, as well a 350w pure sine wave inverter. I also ordered some cable, lugs and master switch do as to have auxiliary batteries. Today I picked up a 110 litre tank for fresh water.

I will use the 2 deep cycle batteries and dc to dc charger in the Ranger rather than buying more. It’s not that hard to do the swap. I’ll then get a friend to install a floor level with the drawers so that I can sleep there if needed.

I will post some pictures soon
 
today I started the fit out by installing a 110 litre water tank and a single drawer 1300 x 500mm. Alongs the drawer will go a drawer fridge once it arrives.

I currently run 2 auxiliary batteries in the Ranger. I will swap these batteries between the Ranger and F350, as well as the Redarc 50/amp dc to dc charger. I have though ordered some battery cable which I will run to the back of the truck to an isolator switch, then run to the Redarc and then the 2 batteries. MIDI fuses will be at both ends.

I will then run power to a fuse panel, which will protect various circuits such as water pumps for shower and drinking, USB sockets, lighting and pure sine wave inverter. I will also install Anderson plugs for the water pump, solar panel, fridge, etc. An air compressor will also be installed.

A raised floor, the same height as the drawer, will provide a flat floor. Hatches will allow access to batteries and storage, etc.

In the photo you can see the water tank at the front of the tub, with fill, drain and vent tubes. The other hose will be for compressed air.

the raised floor will allow for sleeping
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Interested in seeing this as you progress the build! Have you used an airsafe hitch before?
 
Work in progress.

The fridge has arrived and that has allowed me to resume on the fitout.

I can’t mount the fridge directly to the floor of the tub as there isn’t enough clearance to clear the tailgate when you open the fridge. So I will have to mount the fridge on some timber. I have some existing lengths of wood which are just thick enough so that the height of the fridge doesn’t exceed the height of the drawers.

Mounting the battery trays is fiddly because you have to mount them so that the mounting bolts clear various things underneath, such as the ribbing of the floor itself. I will be running AGM batteries from the Ranger, which weigh about 64kgs. Even though it’s an F350 I wanted to carry this weight as far forward as I could. They are just behind the rear axle line.

I have run the main cable from the engine bay into the tub, although I’m yet to finish doing that. One reason is that the fuse holders, although rated to 60 amps, aren’t capable of accepting the terminal big enough for a cable carrying 60 amps over this distance. I’ve ordered another type and can only hope it’s suitable. Heavy duty crimping tool was essential and made life very easy.
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Another reason it’s not finished is because I’m yet to make up the control panel. I will be using an isolator switch connects the cranking battery to auxiliary battery (via the dc to dc charger). Apart from switches I will need Anderson connectors for 2 fridge/freezers, the shower pump and an auxiliary. A volt meter and USB charging points will also be installed.

Rather than buy new batteries and dc to dc chargers, I will be swapping these between the Ranger and F350. I’ve made it modular using Anderson plugs to make the swap over quick and simple at least as far as the wiring is concerned.

I will also try and hard mount the hoses for the 110 litre water tank, as well as the hose for the air compressor.

I’ve now got to go and buy some more fasteners, brackets and timber. I’ll have to drive to Warwick for that, so I’ll do that next week. Carpentry is something I’m not very good at and I have a fair bit of it to do. I’ll have to install brackets and things so that the new floor is flat, stable and capable of supporting a fair bit of weight.

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I have Dometic's next to largest frig/freezer and all I do is plug it in. What am I doing wrong? Granted, it will only run 36 hrs off the Dometic lithium battery.
 
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