Lug nut socket size and torque wrench suggestions…

Let's be real : There's money to be made doing MW solar farms, no one WANTS to go out the the field multiple times cause that eats up profits. Let's do it right the first time, and never need to go back (so to say).
we have a saying that warranty/rework can cost as much as 5x as doing it right the first time. I forget all the metrics that go into it but we try not to do something more than once here.
 
Any thoughts on getting a high quality socket?? I'm not buying a whole set of impact sockets, but would surely buy a nice single. I only remove 2 different bolts or nuts on this truck. Drain plug and lug nuts.
Hope your not using an impact on oil drain plug!!
 
The use case is very specific: high volume repetition of the same torque in the field. They aren't building rockets, they are building solar arrays. I think this is far better than the 2 step process and +/- 10% is fine for that application. As with a manual torque wrench the accuracy probably gets worse the further you are from its calibration point.

Don't forget the average monkey just holds the trigger until it stops, which can strip a lot of smaller fasteners. I even saw a video recently where the revered A-Rod was torquing down a PPE transmission pan (in a circular pattern too!) with a Milwaukee mini-impact and I cringed at the thought.

It sounds like there's some setup involved so this isn't something you should just whip out and trust like an adjustable torque wrench. I agree with you it shouldn't be confused with an assembly tool, but those aren't practical in the field either.
One of my first jobs in a calibration lab on board an aircraft carrier was to calibrate torque wrenches. Generally, these were used on aircraft, but other shops also used them. When these are tested, there are a couple critical points that would fail them instantly should they be outside the acceptance standards. One was hysteresis and another was repeatability. (Accuracy goes without saying.) These required re-calibration on an annual, semiannual, or sometimes every 90 days for critical operations.

I'm with you on the actual tolerance as a function of the operator and "proper use" of the tools. But for assurance of repeatability and the best outcome, torque is actually important, and parameters of the torque wrench must be met and re-checked periodically. The manual use torque wrench is very repeatable generally. I'm not sure how the Milwaukee system would play out in this situation. I think I would still be checking manually to make sure it didn't slip up somewhere. Kind of like, rechecking every lug after you went through and torqued each one, just to make sure you didn't miss one.

I do like the concept though for a production shop. Time will tell the outcome.
 
Any thoughts on getting a high quality socket?? I'm not buying a whole set of impact sockets, but would surely buy a nice single. I only remove 2 different bolts or nuts on this truck. Drain plug and lug nuts.

Took me a while to find in 21mm. There’s a ton of standard deep 3-3.5 inch ones, and this is the only extra deep one i found that’s 4.75 inches. There are a few cheaper 6-7 inch ones but that’s too long for a socket, i do think 4.5-4.75 is a sweet spot for a socket on OEM superduty wheel 😉

 
I switched from 21 to 13/16 and then back 21mm. At some point this summer all of my 13/16s started sticking when the temp got warm, but 21mm still feels fine. Winter time i might be back to 13/16😀
You know, I have a handful of lug nuts that stick pretty badly in the 13/16 socket but the others are fine. I assumed it was the one time I used a 21 mm socket the loose fit malformed them slightly.
 
You know, I have a handful of lug nuts that stick pretty badly in the 13/16 socket but the others are fine. I assumed it was the one time I used a 21 mm socket the loose fit malformed them slightly.
Very likely. The stock lug nuts are three parts, the steel fastener, the floating washer, and the stainless shell. The shell is the culprit, it distorts with any pressure. The Gorilla nuts are solid on the outside, still incorporating the floating washer. You can also get them in chrome if desired.
 
You know, I have a handful of lug nuts that I assumed it was the one time I used a 21 mm socket the loose fit malformed them slightly.

You might be on to something. I didn’t think of this, attributed tightness to summer heat, but it could be that i used 21mm before switching to 13/16.
 
You might be on to something. I didn’t think of this, attributed tightness to summer heat, but it could be that i used 21mm before switching to 13/16.
Yeah it’s plenty hot here :D
I am actually changing my oil today and rotating the tires, and only one stuck hard enough in the socket to need a few taps with a hammer. Seems they are getting better. I would definitely stick with 13/16 (6 point).
 
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I have a Kobalt cordless impact wrench with max torque for taking off lug nuts or whatever. i stopped a Snap-On tool truck and bought a set or reversable lug nut sockets a set of four which gives you 8 different sizes for whatever size lug nuts you have.
You can also purchase flip sockets from amazon.
 
I'm a big fan of this set. I've got this paired with a Milwaukee 1/2" impact, spare battery & charger, a breaker bar, and a torque wrench.

 
You know, I have a handful of lug nuts that stick pretty badly in the 13/16 socket but the others are fine. I assumed it was the one time I used a 21 mm socket the loose fit malformed them slightly.
Spoiler alert...

I just purchased a 13/16 Tekton socket after replacing my lug nuts to Gorilla nuts and founds out, the 13/16 do not fit the Gorilla nuts. You must use a 21 mm for those. So, if you change to Gorilla, and likely any other solid construction lug nuts for direct replacement, 13/16 may not fit.

The original lug nuts from Ford are horrible and will distort with any pressure. They are only a steel nut covered by a flimsy stainless-steel jacket. (Commonly used in automotive industry)

Just FYI
 
I just purchased a 13/16 Tekton socket after replacing my lug nuts to Gorilla nuts and founds out, the 13/16 do not fit the Gorilla nuts.

I have gorilla nuts and 13/16 fit just fine until some started sticking as i mentioned above. I’m not sure what you mean by they do not fit, is it tight or you can’t get it on period😂
 
I have gorilla nuts and 13/16 fit just fine until some started sticking as i mentioned above. I’m not sure what you mean by they do not fit, is it tight or you can’t get it on period😂
The new 13/16 socket I got won't slide over the nut without "tapping" on it, then only goes on part way and is so tight, I have to tap it back and forth to remove it. (Imagine trying to remove the lug nut from the socket after removal)

The 21 mm goes on easy, has minimal play. (I also purchased the 21mm socket at the same time.) Both sockets brand new. I also tried my older Easco (Napa) spark plug socket, same story.

The Tekton nuts have rounded corners, so the flat is less prone to deforming on the edges. Perhaps this makes them tighter tolerance.
  • 6-point sockets apply force to flat sides of fasteners and not the corners, preventing round-off
I will stick with the 21mm, as mentioned elsewhere, I used an impact wrench to put them on, no marring at all.
 
I have been using a harbor freight Pittsburgh from my Tacoma to the Tundra, but at 150 ft/lb, this is too short.

What would you all recommend? Pfa

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If you want something decent but not ridiculously priced, CDI is a subsidiary of snap on and made in the USA. We use several of the 30-250 ft lb 1/2” drive at my shop.

For small fasteners we pony up for the snap on digital wrenches. I like the tech angle micro 12-240 inch lb because I can leave it set at the exact value and never touch it, as it doesn’t work like a traditional click adjust wrench. Makes it super simple for my employees when assembling.
 
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