DRW tailgate light on a SRW

Seems like I remember someone commenting that the OEM light strip is a little smaller than the original blank?? If so, how much smaller is it?

My truck is Line-X’ed over the rear edge of the bed - where the light mounts. That’s standard practice for the local Line-X shop, has been for years.

IF the light is smaller, and IF they just taped over the blank when they did the Line-X (probably), I’d have a white outline around the light. Anyone else ran into this?
 
number9xd said:
Seems like I remember someone commenting that the OEM light strip is a little smaller than the original blank?? If so, how much smaller is it?

My truck is Line-X’ed over the rear edge of the bed - where the light mounts. That’s standard practice for the local Line-X shop, has been for years.

IF the light is smaller, and IF they just taped over the blank when they did the Line-X (probably), I’d have a white outline around the light. Anyone else ran into this?
Click to expand...
Incase anyone else has the same concerns and finds my posts, I pulled the stock blank off today and found that the Line-X shop removed the blank and sprayed behind it.
 
17+ Super Duty XB LED DRW Rear Center Marker Light From Morimoto fits like stock and adds the brake ligh function, easily spliced into the CAP wire.
 
Cheapest price I could find for OEM part was about $135 for the light alone. Found knock-offs on Ebay around $30-35, with connector pigtail. Decided to take a chance on one. I'll report back how it works out for those who may be interested.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266203378041

...
 
ffsmith20 said:
customautoworksstore.com

F250-DRW Light wiring harness - Custom Auto Works Store Raptor Style Light Kits

Factory wiring harness for rear ID light for 2017-2020 Super Duty.Plug & Play for a factory look
customautoworksstore.com customautoworksstore.com
Click to expand...
They sell a kit too w the light for $95. I just installed it on mine today. It looks identical to the more expensive harnesses and the light is prob the $35 ebay/amazon version. Looks like oem, works fine, the instructions are good, the zipties and small parts came in a ziplock sandwich bag. Lol. I'm happy w it.

Here's a link. It's hard to find on their site and they only have it listed for '17-20. It's correct for my '22 and fit fine.

customautoworksstore.com

f250 Rear ID Light -2017-2020 - Custom Auto Works Store Raptor Style Light Kits

LOOKS JUST LIKE THE FACTORY ONE
customautoworksstore.com customautoworksstore.com
 
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pickleknuckles said:
They sell a kit too w the light for $95. I just installed it on mine today. It looks identical to the more expensive harnesses and the light is prob the $35 ebay/amazon version. Looks like oem, works fine, the instructions are good, the zipties and small parts came in a ziplock sandwich bag. Lol. I'm happy w it.

Here's a link. It's hard to find on their site and they only have it listed for '17-20. It's correct for my '22 and fit fine.

customautoworksstore.com

f250 Rear ID Light -2017-2020 - Custom Auto Works Store Raptor Style Light Kits

LOOKS JUST LIKE THE FACTORY ONE
customautoworksstore.com customautoworksstore.com
Click to expand...
i just installed their light and happy with it
 
number9xd said:
Cheapest price I could find for OEM part was about $135 for the light alone. Found knock-offs on Ebay around $30-35, with connector pigtail. Decided to take a chance on one. I'll report back how it works out for those who may be interested.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266203378041

...
Click to expand...
Installed the light today. Tested with 9v battery to be sure it worked and determine which wire was + / -. Holes lined up as they should. The light is 2 pieces of plastic that clamshell together. I sealed the seam with clear RTV as preventative measure to keep moisture out. The pigtail connector to light fit was a little tight, but not a problem. Ran my own wires and used a Posi-tap to pickup 12v off the license plate light, ran the ground to frame. All wires heatshrinked, dielectric greased, and in 1/4" wire loom, ziptied to factory loom as they should be.

Works good and beats the heck out of $135 for OEM. Even if the light dies in a few years, I can replace it 6 times before hitting the cost of OEM (and I'm a guy that buys OEM 99% of the time).

IMG_5810.webp
 
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number9xd said:
Installed the light today. Tested with 9v battery to be sure it worked and determine which wire was + / -. Holes lined up as they should. The light is 2 pieces of plastic that clamshell together. I sealed the seam with clear RTV as preventative measure to keep moisture out. The pigtail connector to light fit was a little tight, but not a problem. Ran my own wires and used a Posi-tap to pickup 12v off the license plate light, ran the ground to frame. All wires heatshrinked, dielectric greased, and in 1/4" wire loom, ziptied to factory loom as they should be.

Works good and beats the heck out of $135 for OEM. Even if the light dies in a few years, I can replace it 6 times before hitting the cost of OEM (and I'm a guy that buys OEM 99% of the time).

View attachment 138498
Click to expand...

Figured I’d post an update on the knockoff light I used. Still working like a champ, no issues. My truck lives outside so it’s been exposed to whatever the weather throws at it.
 
Anyone confirm any of the products in the thread work for the 23 and up models. Looking at the eBay version
 
Mguilbault said:
Anyone confirm any of the products in the thread work for the 23 and up models. Looking at the eBay version
Click to expand...
Any of the products? Sure, everything works, confirmed!

Now…they all should work as long as you can tap into the right circuit on a 23. I have the dwr oem bar that i moved from my 22 to my 23, tapped into license plate circuit this time, working flawlessly for over a year now.
 
You might want to think about the OEM harness route. I bought a DRW rear harness for cheaper than the aftermarket stuff. I did need to make sure it was an LED/BLIS version. So far, no issues.

One step further : I then modded that black filler panel with 3 Truck-Lite LEDs of the same style (if not the same OEM source) with the added feature of dual output. So I took the HI CAP STOP wire on the truck, to the high output of the LEDs. Now when I have the running lights on it's a DRW ID bar, when I hit the brakes it uses the high output as an additional tail light.
 
number9xd said:
Installed the light today. Tested with 9v battery to be sure it worked and determine which wire was + / -. Holes lined up as they should. The light is 2 pieces of plastic that clamshell together. I sealed the seam with clear RTV as preventative measure to keep moisture out. The pigtail connector to light fit was a little tight, but not a problem. Ran my own wires and used a Posi-tap to pickup 12v off the license plate light, ran the ground to frame. All wires heatshrinked, dielectric greased, and in 1/4" wire loom, ziptied to factory loom as they should be.

Works good and beats the heck out of $135 for OEM. Even if the light dies in a few years, I can replace it 6 times before hitting the cost of OEM (and I'm a guy that buys OEM 99% of the time).

View attachment 138498
Click to expand...

number9xd said:
Figured I’d post an update on the knockoff light I used. Still working like a champ, no issues. My truck lives outside so it’s been exposed to whatever the weather throws at it.
Click to expand...

The light bar is still working great. Installed on 12/26/23 @ 17,329mi - now around 33,000mi. Hard to beat for the money spent.
 
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