Battery Leaking dealer telling me its wear and tear please advise

UpInSm0kE

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Location
Nebraska
Current Ride #1
22 F-250 Tremor 7.3
Hi all - just purchased a new to me 22 F250 Tremor 7.3 with 34,500 miles. Popped the hood and the passenger side battery (has dual) is leaking acid all over the place. Judging by the look of it its been doing it for quite some time and this vehicle has been serviced at another ford dealer and nobody seemed to have caught this? I took it to my Ford dealer and the service manager looked at it and said they will test it but if its comes back as good then the leaking is just wear and tear and I pay out of pocket. This truck still has its basic 3yr/36K warranty. Should Ford be covering this?
 

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Unfortunately that's pretty common. I know some of the folks on here that have an exceptional dealer service dept have been able to get them replaced under warranty. But if your dealer won't then I'd say it's time to upgrade. The ones the dealer would put it are guaranteed to do the exact same thing again anyways. Getting a set of agm batteries will remedy this issue.
 
If I went with two new AGM batteries do Forscan changes need to happen after swap?
 
It could be under the 3/36 and any dealership should take care of you but unfortunately some will find reasons not to.

For this reason and hassle I choose to never purchase additional warranty -- vehicle warranty is a piece of mind, yes but it comes with no guarantee. Perhaps if you have endless amounts of money and time, you can fight and prove that it should be covered but both topics are worthless to me.

An honest man (the customer) will never win agaisnt corporate greed.
 
Living in Elkhorn NE for 10+ years before moving to ID - AGM is way to go - no corrision build up have had best luck with Interstate AGM, if you have Costco membership that'll cut down the economic hit https://costco.interstatebatteries.com/results?key=auto&Program=100500&ZipCode=75254&l=75254&Country=United States&year=2454077&make=2454708&model=2454767&engine=2454773&option=2454774#

Based upon the picture of your battery terminals and hold down I'd recommend after removing the old battery, mix baking soda and water using that to clean everything, along with removing the battery box, taking it to bare metal along with all the hardware repainting with Rust-Oleum Stops Rust is what I've used and had good luck with controlling return of corrision

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Living in Elkhorn NE for 10+ years before moving to ID - AGM is way to go - no corrision build up have had best luck with Interstate AGM, if you have Costco membership that'll cut down the economic hit https://costco.interstatebatteries.com/results?key=auto&Program=100500&ZipCode=75254&l=75254&Country=United States&year=2454077&make=2454708&model=2454767&engine=2454773&option=2454774#

Based upon the picture of your battery terminals and hold down I'd recommend after removing the old battery, mix baking soda and water using that to clean everything, along with removing the battery box, taking it to bare metal along with all the hardware repainting with Rust-Oleum Stops Rust is what I've used and had good luck with controlling return of corrision

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Thank you, I am in Omaha :)
 
thanks all, I think I am going to just upgrade to AGM and forget the warranty on the batteries.

I had the same issue and ended up going with the AGM Odyssey from Napa. Check Napa's website, they normally have some good coupon codes (~20%) from time to time.

Here's a discussion on a few AGM options.
 
If I went with two new AGM batteries do Forscan changes need to happen after swap?
No need to update the system in Forscan. There are many threads about this if you research it, the chemical mix is exactly the same in FLA and AGM. The construction is the key difference. AGM is more susceptible to "overcharging" voltage, but the regulator maintains the voltages at a safe level to swap to AGM. (I had this happen as well, also replaced the hold-downs.)

Also consider a battery maintainer if the truck sits at all. The batteries are under a constant state of draw in these trucks due to electronics in a constant monitoring mode.
 
@Canyon Trekker is correct, but i would call the Forscan change "nice but not necessary". If you plan to use Forscan anyway to tweak a few things, might as well change battery type to AGM while you're at it.
 
If I went with two new AGM batteries do Forscan changes need to happen after swap?
Yes, you need to change the charging state from lead acid to agm
 
After two new pair, my dealer is giving me a hard time about replacing them under warranty just for the leaking. They're now saying they need to actually test bad. So I've moved on to pushing them to replace the corroded tie downs as well.
 
@Canyon Trekker is correct, but i would call the Forscan change "nice but not necessary". If you plan to use Forscan anyway to tweak a few things, might as well change battery type to AGM while you're at it.
This is a multi-faceted argument when it comes to specs of the batteries and charge systems. Most talking points point out the obvious, low or high voltage on an AGM won't work. This statement is true and a "safe" blanket statement to make if you don't know what you're looking at in a particular situation. Most dwell on a "charger", not a vehicle charging system. They operate differently. (Another lengthy discussion for some other time) I found only one video that shows why you "can't" replace an FLA with an AGM, due to the alternator not putting out enough voltage to maintain the charge. It's a valid point. But not for our trucks.

There are plenty of videos out there telling you that you MUST use an AGM "charger" when charging an AGM battery but fail to correlate it to a vehicle charging system. (Because most vehicle systems charge at 14.5V, which is adequate and safe for AGM)

I would be curious if @UpInSm0kE does this change in Forscan, does the initial cycle charge voltage change, and does the float voltage change from the non-AGM setting. If I recall, @BroncOh reported that after he made the change in his truck, there was no difference. For an X2 battery, the cycle service voltage requirement is between 14.4 and 14.8; and the float is 13.5 to 13.8. I believe my truck is right in this window in the "normal" setting.

I wouldn't be surprised that the only thing the AGM setting does is change the monitoring "thresholds" of the battery to determine a failing battery. If someone could prove differently, I'm all ears.

By the way, if you look up a replacement battery at Batteries plus for a truck that had an original FLA, (such as the 22 like mine) it directs you (as an alternate to the FLA) to the Duracell AGM and the X2 as the high-performance replacement. It also provides a 4-year limited war. for the Duracell, and 4 year non prorated warranty for the X2. Sounds like a pretty safe bet to me.

Depending on the computer in some vehicles, one possible reason the AGM setting might be preferred is that if the charge voltage is less than 13.8 for the FLA, an AGM may never reach full charge, and the setting may allow a higher voltage out of the regulator. (but I doubt it) But even a slightly higher voltage than 13.8 has the ability to bring the battery back to full, albeit at a very slow rate. (That's how a trickle charger works) That's why an external maintainer is the winner in this case.

Batteries plus ad.

Battery AGM.webp
 
If I recall, @BroncOh reported that after he made the change in his truck, there was no difference.
I actually changed the SOC setting and it did not seem to make any difference when measuring voltage. I did change the battery type setting to AGM.
 
I had the driver's side changed once and the passenger side changed 2x under warranty for a lot less leaking than what you show here. It really depends on the dealer doing your service. That being said the next time the stock batteries start to leak I am replacing them with the X2 AGMs like the others have done here.
 
Even if Ford gives you a warranty it will be prorated and they will just put another SLA battery with the same problem. What you have there is worth maybe $50 in credit towards another lousy battery. Just bite the bullet and get the X2Power. Make sure you clean the contacts with baking soda solution and a brass brush to neutralize the acid.
 
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