7.3L spark plug/coil wire failure

how are you guys wrapping your head around this. some vehicles wont need wires or coils in the engines life. ford on the 4th revision in 5yr
 
how are you guys wrapping your head around this. some vehicles wont need wires or coils in the engines life. ford on the 4th revision in 5yr
Depends on your starting point (what gen wires you have) and then duty cycle. Those that drive their trucks w/o ever towing or loading it may never have an issue. Those that tow alot and are putting more load on the engine for extended periods tend to see more issues.
 
how are you guys wrapping your head around this. some vehicles wont need wires or coils in the engines life. ford on the 4th revision in 5yr
It is weird. I've got suffix C on mine now and fingers crossed. In the beginning everyone was talking about the wires melting, but in my careful analysis, I determined it was a bad connection between the plug clip and the carbon conductor. This lead to the conductor burning back inside the insulator until the spark could not jump the gap. Likely heat is involved, but it's not only heat that is causing failures. I don't get how it can be this hard to make a good quality plug wire. First, I went to the dealer to get a set after mine began to fail. Three problems with that: The price was 3X Rock Autos price, all they had was the original style, and the parts guy decided to argue with me that I didn't need new wires because they should last at least 100,000 miles or the life of the vehicle.
 
While we are on the subject, does anyone know the torque specs for the spark plugs and if they go in dry or with anti-seize? I don't even know what brand and model number the plugs are.
 
Likely heat is involved, but it's not only heat that is causing failures
Yes. I think under hood heat aggravates the issue but is not the root cause. The latest revision for production improves the retention and connectivity with the spark plug. I'm hopeful that when that is robust the other contributory items will become non-factors. Time will tell...
 
While we are on the subject, does anyone know the torque specs for the spark plugs and if they go in dry or with anti-seize? I don't even know what brand and model number the plugs are.
Motorcraft Spark plugs: SP-589. Gap is .049-.053
 
This is the first I am reading about this spark plug wire issue. Just ordered a set of the “D” version from Rockauto. I figure it will be a case of better safe than sorry
 
This is the first I am reading about this spark plug wire issue. Just ordered a set of the “D” version from Rockauto. I figure it will be a case of better safe than sorry
Not a bad plan sure glad I did the C wires spares under the seat. Turned ruined weekend plans to a slight delay to swap out the failed wires. I do recommend carrying a code reader as well.
 
Not a bad plan sure glad I did the C wires spares under the seat. Turned ruined weekend plans to a slight delay to swap out the failed wires. I do recommend carrying a code reader as well.
I just got an OBDLINK MX+ code reader but haven't set it up yet. Anyone else have experience with one of these? It seems it can identify what cylinder is missing when a wire fails.
 
I just got an OBDLINK MX+ code reader but haven't set it up yet. Anyone else have experience with one of these? It seems it can identify what cylinder is missing when a wire fails.
I don’t have experience with the MX+ but any reader should give you the code at minimum that can be looked up to tell which cylinder is misfiring. Better units will give definitions with the codes which I think the MX will.
 
I just got an OBDLINK MX+ code reader but haven't set it up yet. Anyone else have experience with one of these? It seems it can identify what cylinder is missing when a wire fails.
I've got one and it's easy to set up. Put the app on your phone and plug the reader into the port. It should start searching for BT immediately. If it doesn't push the button on the front left side. Accept the connection on your phone and follow the prompts and you should be good to go. The app has several features including a full set of vehicle performance gauges and performance analysis tools.
 
i dont see any good excuse. we're only 150yrs into the internal combustion engine and discovery of electricity. faulty plug wires shouldnt even be a thing. and to say meh its no big deal ill just carry a few spares under the back seat blows my mind
 
So, my set of -D wires just arrived from Rock Auto. Any tips on swapping them?

Drivers side looks pretty easy but passenger side looks to be a PITA with the heater hoses. I don’t see much room to get the wires from below either due to the frame.
 
i dont see any good excuse. we're only 150yrs into the internal combustion engine and discovery of electricity. faulty plug wires shouldnt even be a thing. and to say meh its no big deal ill just carry a few spares under the back seat blows my mind
Even more surprising is how many times Ford has tried to get it right an failed. Re-design after re-design. What the hell?! I still contend I could make an emergency wire, out in the field, from a piece of baling wire, that would work better, or at least get me home.
 
Any tips on swapping them?
Be a man and climb up on that (cool) engine and get to work!! Thats what I did, I have the "C" wires I put on at 6-700 miles after I had headers installed (and zero problems since) 19,400 miles currently. Its a looong way back to the rear most cylinders. Thankfully I'm tall and have long arms, but I think I knelt on the fan shroud with a towel folded up.
 
For those of you who have purchased the "D" version, have you put them on yet and if so, are they working OK? Getting ready to go on a long road trip and want to buy some spare wires but can't find the "C" versions.
 
Would putting fiberglass plug boot protectors over the wires help with this issue? Or would it hurt? 22k in and no issue yet.
Mine looked like they burned from the inside. Seems to me more like a result of electrical arching inside the insulation so not sure adding the fiberglass plug boots would do anything.
 
Mine looked like they burned from the inside. Seems to me more like a result of electrical arching inside the insulation so not sure adding the fiberglass plug boots would do anything.
Yeah, I agree. The new D wires are designed to retain plug connectivity with more positive engagement.
 
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