7.3L spark plug/coil wire failure

15-18 isnt that much but i dont know if i would go so far to say its barely above hand tight with a screw driver. but i get what your saying. ive personally not experienced broke plugs even after having alot of dirt bikes ,atvs and quit a few vehicles in the last 30yrs so i dont know what causes a plug to break
 
mikeylikesit said:
15-18 isnt that much but i dont know if i would go so far to say its barely above hand tight with a screw driver.
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The average person can generate about 15ft. lbs. of torque with a screw driver before their hand slips on the grip.

I dont remember where I read that a few years ago.
 
mikeylikesit said:
15-18 isnt that much but i dont know if i would go so far to say its barely above hand tight with a screw driver. but i get what your saying. ive personally not experienced broke plugs even after having alot of dirt bikes ,atvs and quit a few vehicles in the last 30yrs so i dont know what causes a plug to break
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My guess is it was dropped while it was out of the head or just plain carelessness during installation. I'm with you, I don't remember the last time I saw a cracked plug when removing from an engine. I've broken a few trying to install in an awkward angle though. I'm not positive but I think Ford Assembly installs the plugs in unison with a multi-spindle machine, all four in each bank torqued identical. I could be mistaken but I've seen this somewhere.
Very possible the header shop dropped or got rough during installation.
 
So are these the B Wires?
F4D92890-0B28-408D-A762-649B75A89F31.webp
 
What is the proper torque, gap and change interval for the plugs, and does Ford want any anti-seize on the threads, or just dry?
 
Appreciate everyone’s work on this topic. I just ordered 2 from rock auto for $7.84 ea.
 
So… these are labeled C wires but they look like the B housings posted before:

Nov 2022 build

8BA11E3A-2C84-482E-A59F-C2A12435955A.webp
 
pods8 said:
So… these are labeled C wires but they look like the B housings posted before:

Nov 2022 build

View attachment 116403
Click to expand...
Those are not "C" service release wires, they are "MC" engineering release wires. The common "C" is just coincidence. You can read my other post on this subject and the following discussion starting at #149.
 
Modman said:
Those are not "C" service release wires, they are "MC" engineering release wires. The common "C" is just coincidence. You can read my other post on this subject and the following discussion starting at #149.
Click to expand...
Gotcha LC3Z vs LC3E
 
Well it took a while but got the dreaded misfire code a ways after pulling a decent mountain pass with almost 14K in tow and near max payload on the truck. What I find odd is it hit about 10 miles past the back side of the pass on a relative flat grade. Threw code on cylinder #2 and #3. The #2 showed signs of burning inside the boot. Lucky happened close enough to a small cafe was able to grab a bite to eat while the engine cooled down and waited for my buddy to return my code reader he burrowed. Swapped the bad ones out with the spares I had been carrying and was back in business.

What has everyone been doing under the warranty in these circumstances? If I call in will they replace all the wires or just the bad ones? Tempting to put bad ones back on and have the dealer fix so I can keep some spares Incase the C wires have the same issues and just keep spares on hand and a reader in the truck all the time.
 
2020Tremor said:
What has everyone been doing under the warranty in these circumstances? If I call in will they replace all the wires or just the bad ones? Tempting to put bad ones back on and have the dealer fix so I can keep some spares Incase the C wires have the same issues and just keep spares on hand and a reader in the truck all the time.
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I could not get them to replace all of them. They would only replace the plug wire on #2 after swapping it around to confirm the issue followed the plug wire (which it of course did).

I'm doing what you're thinking. I have two spares now and always have a code reader with me.

It's interesting you had it on #2 and #3. Mine was #2 only and I believe over the years it seems to be the most common one to have issues with. Why that is I have no idea.

I have not had any issues since fortunately with that replacement or any of the original wires.
 
If I remember correct, another member on the forum took his truck in and the dealer was only going to replace the bad one. Not give him a whole new set. Give your dealer a call and maybe they could tell you over the phone how they would handle your case. Which wires were you running when this happened?
 
2020Tremor said:
Well it took a while but got the dreaded misfire code a ways after pulling a decent mountain pass with almost 14K in tow and near max payload on the truck. What I find odd is it hit about 10 miles past the back side of the pass on a relative flat grade. Threw code on cylinder #2 and #3. The #2 showed signs of burning inside the boot. Lucky happened close enough to a small cafe was able to grab a bite to eat while the engine cooled down and waited for my buddy to return my code reader he burrowed. Swapped the bad ones out with the spares I had been carrying and was back in business.

What has everyone been doing under the warranty in these circumstances? If I call in will they replace all the wires or just the bad ones? Tempting to put bad ones back on and have the dealer fix so I can keep some spares Incase the C wires have the same issues and just keep spares on hand and a reader in the truck all the time.
Click to expand...
I'm like you and carry my bluetooth code reader in the console, extra wires under the back seat. I'd just call the dealer and ask about warranty replacement of the bad wires. It's almost always #2 and one other one. They will probably only replace the bad ones anyway.
 
plethoragreen said:
I could not get them to replace all of them. They would only replace the plug wire on #2 after swapping it around to confirm the issue followed the plug wire (which it of course did).

I'm doing what you're thinking. I have two spares now and always have a code reader with me.

It's interesting you had it on #2 and #3. Mine was #2 only and I believe over the years it seems to be the most common one to have issues with. Why that is I have no idea.

I have not had any issues since fortunately with that replacement or any of the original wires.
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Hopefully not needed but is this the correct layout of the cylinders for the 7.3? Rather learn this now then on the side of the road.
1685285432042.webp
 
Tucsontremor said:
If I remember correct, another member on the forum took his truck in and the dealer was only going to replace the bad one. Not give him a whole new set. Give your dealer a call and maybe they could tell you over the phone how they would handle your case. Which wires were you running when this happened?
Click to expand...
Thanks, I was running the original 2020 LCE-12286-LB wires replaced with the new LCZ-12286-C wires. Made almost 32K miles before the failure.
 
RedZilla said:
I'm like you and carry my bluetooth code reader in the console, extra wires under the back seat. I'd just call the dealer and ask about warranty replacement of the bad wires. It's almost always #2 and one other one. They will probably only replace the bad ones anyway.
Click to expand...
Hey Red, .. this topic has gotten a little confusing. Since the upgraded "RV" Plug Wires appears to accommodate a Spark Plug with a larger sized Porcelain, what's your opinion on installing a new set of "RV" Spark Plugs along with the larger porcelain Spark Plug. Everything then would be sized appropriate.
 
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