How to the WR6167 wires compare to the Ford "C" or RV wires?
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The WR6167 is the model for the F-53 motorhome chassis. They also have the “c” labeling on the package.How to the WR6167 wires compare to the Ford "C" or RV wires?
Good to know. I didn’t know of anyone on the forum that was running these full time. Glad to hear you’re having good luck with them!I have had the "C" RV wires on my 7.3 for 8 or 9 months with no issues. The spring makes it easier to install, so that's a bonus. Just got done towing our TT around the Olympic peninsula last week during the heat wave; no issues there, even when pinning it at 4500 rpm for a couple long climbs at highway speeds.
I just ordered a set and will have them Monday. Cyl 2 misfirre at 48,000 miles with the stock wires. Installed one massive wire on that cylinder to get me by and it runs perfect. I cut open the stock wire and it was burned inside.Good to know. I didn’t know of anyone on the forum that was running these full time. Glad to hear you’re having good luck with them!
Thanks! I must be loosing my mind, I have no idea why I wrote 12...... LOL8, yes
Clearly you meant 8 + 4 extra just in caseThanks! I must be loosing my mind, I have no idea why I wrote 12...... LOL
Clearly you meant 8 + 4 extra just in case![]()
I don't see anything wrong with that. I got 8 plus 2 for good measure.Thanks! I must be loosing my mind, I have no idea why I wrote 12...... LOL
I wouldn’t say easy. The drivers side isn’t bad at all. The front 2 on the passenger side aren’t awful. The back 2… I had to lay on top of the engine to reach them. Maybe shouldn’t have looked underneath to check access?Are all 8 wires easy to get to? Say you need to change one while out on a road trip no major issues like removing shit to get to them.
That suggestion seems to assume the wires are melting, or burning up from heat. In my case, the metal boot and the silicone wire insulator were fine. The failure was the interior carbon conductor. No wire is used, just a carbon path. And mine was burned back about 3/4" inside the silicone insulator, or "wire". At some point, the spark voltage was not high enough to jump the gap inside the "wire", and a misfire developed.While I admit I haven't read all the pages on this thread, has anyone tried to just put spark plug boots over the stock wires?
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So if it's not heat causing the failures, then what? Vibration cracking the carbon inside the wire? Is the only difference the extra shielding on the "C" wires or are they built thicker internally as well? If they added extra shielding as a solution to the problem, it sounds like heat is the culprit.That suggestion seems to assume the wires are melting, or burning up from heat. In my case, the metal boot and the silicone wire insulator were fine. The failure was the interior carbon conductor. No wire is used, just a carbon path. And mine was burned back about 3/4" inside the silicone insulator, or "wire". At some point, the spark voltage was not high enough to jump the gap inside the "wire", and a misfire developed.
It seems like this problem is either too high a voltage, poor conductor to plug connector connection, or some combo of those while in a hot environment. But the silicone wire (insulator) did not fail, just the inside carbon conductor.
I carry a set of the Massive wires, just to get home, and one of those worked perfectly for just that purpose. I now have a set of the "C" rated motorhome parts, part number WR6161, for $11.99 each, from RockAuto (thanks Tuscontremor). BTW, my dealer wanted $34. each, but since I bought my truck there, was willing to "discount" them to only $31. each. That was for the original ones that fail and they had to order them! Sheesh. RockAuto had the upgraded ones in my mailbox in two days.
I suspect a bad connection between the carbon conductor and the metal sparkplug cap/connector. Any arcing at that connection will eventually burn out the conductor and that looks like what happened.So if it's not heat causing the failures, then what? Vibration cracking the carbon inside the wire? Is the only difference the extra shielding on the "C" wires or are they built thicker internally as well? If they added extra shielding as a solution to the problem, it sounds like heat is the culprit.
You could have the upgraded ones in two days or less from Rockauto for about $12. each. My dealer wanted to sell me the original ones that fail.Plugged in the scanner and its 6 and 7 misfire. Dealer didn't have any wires in stock. Had them order only 1 thinking/hoping it was #2 like others had. Nope! I'll have them order another one and get the rest online. They're 20$ per at the dealer.
part number WR6161, for $11.99 each, from RockAuto (thanks Tuscontremor). BTW, my dealer wanted $34. each, but since I bought my truck there, was willing to "discount" them to only $31. each.
You could have the upgraded ones in two days or less from Rockauto for about $12. each. My dealer wanted to sell me the original ones that fail.
Here's an option:Had em sittin' in my cart and planned to order the 4 they had after seeing what the dealer had, but some arsehole beat me to it and they're gone!!
Here's an option:
Wire Assembly Ignition LC3Z-12286-C | TascaParts.com
LC3Z-12286-C - Wire Assembly Ignitionwww.tascaparts.com