7.3L spark plug/coil wire failure

How to the WR6167 wires compare to the Ford "C" or RV wires?
The WR6167 is the model for the F-53 motorhome chassis. They also have the “c” labeling on the package.
 
I have had the "C" RV wires on my 7.3 for 8 or 9 months with no issues. The spring makes it easier to install, so that's a bonus. Just got done towing our TT around the Olympic peninsula last week during the heat wave; no issues there, even when pinning it at 4500 rpm for a couple long climbs at highway speeds.
Good to know. I didn’t know of anyone on the forum that was running these full time. Glad to hear you’re having good luck with them!
 
Good to know. I didn’t know of anyone on the forum that was running these full time. Glad to hear you’re having good luck with them!
I just ordered a set and will have them Monday. Cyl 2 misfirre at 48,000 miles with the stock wires. Installed one massive wire on that cylinder to get me by and it runs perfect. I cut open the stock wire and it was burned inside.
 
Are all 8 wires easy to get to? Say you need to change one while out on a road trip no major issues like removing shit to get to them.
 
Are all 8 wires easy to get to? Say you need to change one while out on a road trip no major issues like removing shit to get to them.
I wouldn’t say easy. The drivers side isn’t bad at all. The front 2 on the passenger side aren’t awful. The back 2… I had to lay on top of the engine to reach them. Maybe shouldn’t have looked underneath to check access?
 
While I admit I haven't read all the pages on this thread, has anyone tried to just put spark plug boots over the stock wires?

sparkplugboot.JPG
 
While I admit I haven't read all the pages on this thread, has anyone tried to just put spark plug boots over the stock wires?

View attachment 58313
That suggestion seems to assume the wires are melting, or burning up from heat. In my case, the metal boot and the silicone wire insulator were fine. The failure was the interior carbon conductor. No wire is used, just a carbon path. And mine was burned back about 3/4" inside the silicone insulator, or "wire". At some point, the spark voltage was not high enough to jump the gap inside the "wire", and a misfire developed.

It seems like this problem is either too high a voltage, poor conductor to plug connector connection, or some combo of those while in a hot environment. But the silicone wire (insulator) did not fail, just the inside carbon conductor.

I carry a set of the Massive wires, just to get home, and one of those worked perfectly for just that purpose. I now have a set of the "C" rated motorhome parts, part number WR6161, for $11.99 each, from RockAuto (thanks Tuscontremor). BTW, my dealer wanted $34. each, but since I bought my truck there, was willing to "discount" them to only $31. each. That was for the original ones that fail and they had to order them! Sheesh. RockAuto had the upgraded ones in my mailbox in two days.
 

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That suggestion seems to assume the wires are melting, or burning up from heat. In my case, the metal boot and the silicone wire insulator were fine. The failure was the interior carbon conductor. No wire is used, just a carbon path. And mine was burned back about 3/4" inside the silicone insulator, or "wire". At some point, the spark voltage was not high enough to jump the gap inside the "wire", and a misfire developed.

It seems like this problem is either too high a voltage, poor conductor to plug connector connection, or some combo of those while in a hot environment. But the silicone wire (insulator) did not fail, just the inside carbon conductor.

I carry a set of the Massive wires, just to get home, and one of those worked perfectly for just that purpose. I now have a set of the "C" rated motorhome parts, part number WR6161, for $11.99 each, from RockAuto (thanks Tuscontremor). BTW, my dealer wanted $34. each, but since I bought my truck there, was willing to "discount" them to only $31. each. That was for the original ones that fail and they had to order them! Sheesh. RockAuto had the upgraded ones in my mailbox in two days.
So if it's not heat causing the failures, then what? Vibration cracking the carbon inside the wire? Is the only difference the extra shielding on the "C" wires or are they built thicker internally as well? If they added extra shielding as a solution to the problem, it sounds like heat is the culprit.
 
So if it's not heat causing the failures, then what? Vibration cracking the carbon inside the wire? Is the only difference the extra shielding on the "C" wires or are they built thicker internally as well? If they added extra shielding as a solution to the problem, it sounds like heat is the culprit.
I suspect a bad connection between the carbon conductor and the metal sparkplug cap/connector. Any arcing at that connection will eventually burn out the conductor and that looks like what happened.

The conductor "wire" is a carbon impregnated string that is fragile.

I see no difference in the new "C" wires, except mine are the motorhome version with a spring wound around the insulator, inside the metal shield. But looking into the connector, it looks the same as the earlier ones.

I checked all eight wires. The #2 was burned inside, as mentioned. One more looked a little different like it was assembled not as well, but had not failed. The other six looked perfect inside. I'll keep those for emergencies.

My truck had about 48,000 miles on it when it began to misfire. I drove it for about another 1,500 miles before finally installing new wires. At first, the problem seemed like a fuel issue and was cured temporarily with gas additive. My code reader saw no codes stored. Finally, I read the codes with a professional scanner and found the #2 misfire code. Then it was confirmed with a computer loaded with Forscan. If you get new wires, be sue to get the suffix "C" in the part number as it is not a given that new wires will be the latest model. My dealer did not have any. They wanted to order new wires that were not "C", and charge me $34. for each one! But first, the parts guy wanted to argue that plug wires should last 100,000 miles and I didn't need them. I told him Godzilla plug wires are a known problem and maybe he should check it out, and that the price should be around $12-15. each. First tell me I don't need the part, and then try to charge me more than double the price for them. Good idea. RockAuto is the place to go.
 
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So I've a 2022 7.3 F350 with 16xx miles on it. Build date 6-20. It has had SW headers and a cat back since 1000ish miles. Had each side cat codes and put spark plug foulers or whatever you call them and they haven't been back. Currently have a misfire (via the FordPass), but a buddy and I are going to look further into it while doing some Forscan changes. Going to the dealer at opening and seeing if they have one of the WR 6167. I don't have a spring in mine, so I have the B version (?)
 
Plugged in the scanner and its 6 and 7 misfire. Dealer didn't have any wires in stock. Had them order only 1 thinking/hoping it was #2 like others had. Nope! I'll have them order another one and get the rest online. They're 20$ per at the dealer.
 
Plugged in the scanner and its 6 and 7 misfire. Dealer didn't have any wires in stock. Had them order only 1 thinking/hoping it was #2 like others had. Nope! I'll have them order another one and get the rest online. They're 20$ per at the dealer.
You could have the upgraded ones in two days or less from Rockauto for about $12. each. My dealer wanted to sell me the original ones that fail.
 
part number WR6161, for $11.99 each, from RockAuto (thanks Tuscontremor). BTW, my dealer wanted $34. each, but since I bought my truck there, was willing to "discount" them to only $31. each.

I think you meant WR6167 right?

WR6161:
1661302621933.webp



WR6167:
1661302698696.webp



I was confused looking up 6161.. haha
 
You could have the upgraded ones in two days or less from Rockauto for about $12. each. My dealer wanted to sell me the original ones that fail.

Had em sittin' in my cart and planned to order the 4 they had after seeing what the dealer had, but some arsehole beat me to it and they're gone!!
 
Here's an option:

Again, I have them sitting in my cart at Tasca, but they don't offer much for quick shipping options. www.onlinefordpartscatalog.com has "expedited" shipping but now I'm not in as much hurry, so I'll get a second from the dealer (i'll push for warranty, but if I gotta leave the truck with them, I'll get my own) and then order the rest from wherever.
 
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