3D Printers and CAD Software - looking for advice

[HelmPilot]

Okay I’m kinda tired about reading how some of you guys get these great creative ideas and quickly turn them into prototypes! I want to join in the fun but with so many options out there I’d like to get input from experienced users as to what units would help me accomplish the following goals:

I want a unit that will give me a build size of at least 24” for brackets and full size modeling.
I want to be able to make components out of both plastic and metallic media.
Quality and Capability are far more important to me than minimizing cost.
I don’t want to buy a starter unit only to realize I want more capability as I become more proficient in using it and design.

As for the CAD software question:

I’ve been around design engineers all my work life but never myself used CAD software. I’m an old school draftsman designer and can design in 2D all day but that doesn’t create the digital model that a 3D printer needs. I want a logical balance between software capability and ease of use/learning.

Any thoughts and advice is very much appreciated!

 

[Slippers]

There’s a lot of gear and opinions out there, and plenty of correct answers to how to get into this stuff. I’ll share my experience, and I’m sure other people will chime in.

I run a cnc shop with 18 vertical mills and 2 lathes. We use a lot of haas 3/4 axis and Matsuura 5th axis, and have lights out capability with automation. For printing we have a formlabs sla for prototyping, and we hate it. It doesn’t get used. Dealing with the resin and tanks is annoying. Waste of $3000+.

For the last 10 years I personally used a lulzbot extruder for prototyping, and it got the job done, but I finally took some friends recommendations to heart and had a bambu lab H2S delivered this past week. Frankly, I am amazed how far things have progressed. Setup was a snap. It has the AMS on top that holds four spools and dries the filament. Changing filament is all handled by the AMS and H2S. And the print quality and speed is a few times better than my old lulzbot. Also, it’s quiet. I can take calls in the same room while it’s running, unlike my previous printer. I run it in lan mode so it doesn’t phone home to china. Cost was $1500, while the lulzbot cost me over $2000 a decade ago.

I am genuinely impressed with the bambu so far, and am considering a cheaper model for use at home with my kids. I have a local friend that has the H2D and X1C and he loves them. Another with the inexpensive A1. And one of my employees has 6 bambu printers that he uses to make toys to sell at farmers markets on the weekends.

24” max build space is pretty big, though, so you’ll probably be looking outside the bambu lineup and have to get one that isn’t enclosed, which limits some filament options.

As for software, we have multiple seats of Solidworks and we use Hexagon Esprit for CAM. These have a very steep learning curve and are quite expensive, plus overkill for home 3D printing. I’m not familiar with the cheaper or free options in this space, but I’m sure others will be able to recommend something.

 

[TremorSS]

The metallic printing is $$$. Best idea is to prototype it and then get it to someone else has a printer, which will likely be a professional outfit.

There are many quality options out there. Printing in PLA can be done in your house but ABS needs to be vented. A 24x24x24” printer will also be expensive.

 

[HelmPilot]

Thank you this is the type of feedback I’m looking for any added thoughts are appreciated!

 

[Chris-DTA]

I did use an outsourced 3D printing service to have the larger passenger fuse box lid printed in 3D. The file was listed in the matching thread here in the forum. I think it cost me about $50-ish or so, but the results were really good. I was able to choose from different providers all over the world, but ended up with a US provider due to tariffs. I would love to have my own 3D printer, but no room in my rig lol

 

[Phil314]

I know you aren't going to want to hear this but here it is...

Buy a smaller starter unit. The biggest learning curve in all of that is going to be learning to use the CAD software.
Best machine in the world isn't any good with knowing how to design parts.
So I'd suggest something like a Bambo X1C. It's only filament, but you can do a ton of stuff with it.
And there are a lot of different filaments these days.
And once you have a design, it's far more cost effective to send the design to someone else and have it cut or built.
I design parts all the time, email them to my plasma cutting guy and get parts back in a day or 2.
I'd love to own a cnc plasma table, but this way is just easier and cheaper.

Later down the road, when you've got a lot more knowledge, you'll know exactly what kind of machine and processes you need.
At that time, you can go all in on an expensive multi process machine and get the full benefit of it.

As for CAD software, I'm using OnShape. It's web based and complete free.
It's both simple at a low level, but with very advance features once you learn them.
Best part is since it's web based, you can work with others on your design over the internet.
I'm always sharing designs with my brother, who can then improve my design and show me how to do things.

 

[HelmPilot]

These responses are super helpful. I had no idea that outsourcing the model to a printing service could be that cost effective. I can also now see that learning and being proficient at CAD seems to be the logical progression step in the beginning

 

[Modman]

I can also now see that learning and being proficient at CAD seems to be the logical progression step in the beginning

The other benefit with this approach is that you will learn about how to design, regardless of the software you are using. Although it's not totally without issue changing software, understanding the basic design theory and process goes a long way.

 

[Wildcat82]

Agree with other comments, start simple with a machine. Bambu Labs, as others mentioned, is great. I have a Creality K2 Plus, absolutely love it. For software, really depends on how complicated you want to get and features. Tinkercad, blender, sketchup all work well and are easy entry for learning. I use Fusion360, it's free if you are a hobbyist. For fusion 360, there are a ton of free courses on YouTube to start learning how to use it. You can Google just about anything for it. Good luck!

 

[HeavyAssault]

I want to be able to make components out of both plastic and metallic media.
Quality and Capability are far more important to me than minimizing cost.

The deep end......IS REALLY DEEP. Can you swim and for how long??

https://markforged.com/3d-printers/metal-x

I need to outsource an idea as well since no one here has taken me up on the effort.

 

[trmrzla]

The deep end......IS REALLY DEEP. Can you swim and for how long??

https://markforged.com/3d-printers/metal-x

I need to outsource an idea as well since no one here has taken me up on the effort.

Do tell?

 

[HeavyAssault]

@trmrzla

> Starlink Gen 3 has an external router. SL does sell a wall mount for the router.
> I have removed the rear seating left and right side headrests. I need a base plate of sorts that will has the same type of extensions to fit into the headrest mounts.
> I take the 3D printed base plate, insert into the rear headrest mount holes. Then take the SL wall mount, drill and fit to clear the rear sliding window.
> Of course the design could be created to move the edge forward so the base doesn't hit the sliding glass window. That's only a problem when using it on the driver's side rear headrest mount location.

This allows me to have a more "permanent" mounting point for the SL router.
Not to mention it could serve as a mount base for anything else anyone might need within reason. I had considered maybe a fire extinguisher but it could break off in a serious crash causing the extinguisher to become a flying hazard.

 

[McE]

First thing to establish is your direction and expectations. Forget about printing metal just yet - we're talking six figures for a decent machine. If you have a lot of free time and really want to get your hands dirty, a cheap open-frame consumer grade printer is a great way to learn all aspects of 3D printing. You will be forced to work on it constantly to keep it calibrated and running properly. If you just want an appliance that enables you to click print and walk away, something like the Bambu Lab machines are a great option. There are no large format consumer grade printers that I would recommend to someone new. Tuning them and getting them to operate reliably can be incredibly difficult and almost none of them will work decently out of the box.

Another thing to consider is you won’t be able to make heat-tolerant functional parts out of ASA, ABS, PC, nylon, etc without an enclosed machine. PLA is good for prototyping but that’s about it. PETG can be printed open-air but is barely a step above PLA and not an ideal material for most functional parts. If you’re serious about making quality functional parts yourself, you’ll need an enclosed machine with a hotend that can handle up to around 300C. You will also need ventilation for any type of filament, regardless of what the internet may have you believe.

As far as software goes, Fusion 360 is a great place to start if you plan to really take the time and get good at it. There is a free version for non-commercial use. If you want to keep it simple, something like OnShape is a good option.

Source: own an additive manufacturing company.

 

[DFS]

I’m a mechanical engineer by trade, and was taught on SolidWorks/Catia so that’s what I use for design engineering. I tried on shape and it has some great benefits but learning a new workflow is not going to happen. So if you plan on doing a lot of design work a SolidWorks license would be worth it, or look at Fusion/Inventor/OnShape.

For printing, I’ve tried Prusa and Formlabs but settled on a Bambu H2D and X1E, can’t go wrong with either one. As others mentioned, the FormLabs has the most capability but the resins and curing/wash are a nightmare. The AMS pro combo with an H2D really is tough to beat. Ready to go out of the box. A lot of 3D printers require constant calibration and maintenance, I asked myself, do I want a 3D printer so I can fix my 3D printer (Prusa) or do I want my 3D printer to just work and be used for prototyping. Highly recommend Bambu for that reason.

CAD if you’re starting fresh really won’t matter between SolidWorks, Fusion, Inventor/OnShape unless you want to get into FEA or CFD. Just take a course for whichever you select as that will expedite your learning process more than you can imagine. I’d check out 3D connections for a space mouse if you really plan to do a lot of design work as well.

 

[trmrzla]

@trmrzla

> Starlink Gen 3 has an external router. SL does sell a wall mount for the router.
> I have removed the rear seating left and right side headrests. I need a base plate of sorts that will has the same type of extensions to fit into the headrest mounts.
> I take the 3D printed base plate, insert into the rear headrest mount holes. Then take the SL wall mount, drill and fit to clear the rear sliding window.
> Of course the design could be created to move the edge forward so the base doesn't hit the sliding glass window. That's only a problem when using it on the driver's side rear headrest mount location.

This allows me to have a more "permanent" mounting point for the SL router.
Not to mention it could serve as a mount base for anything else anyone might need within reason. I had considered maybe a fire extinguisher but it could break off in a serious crash causing the extinguisher to become a flying hazard.

We could come up with something, right? I'm not well versed on the Starlink and mounts, but how hard can it be?

 

[HeavyAssault]

We could come up with something, right? I'm not well versed on the Starlink and mounts, but how hard can it be?

Doesn't need to be specific to SL. Just needs to fit into the headrests, and have an area for mounting the SL mount bracket. I sent you a text.

 

[OmahaBravo]

AutoCAD Fusion
Bambu Labs X1C (or something comparable) - dont buy anything less capable. If you've ever bought a harbor freight tool only to turn around and need the quality, more capable version of it... thats why.

Drawing something up will become easy, fast. Drawing something up that you can make a small edit without spending hours doing so takes will take some time. Spend the time to learn how to properly draw.

 

[Fozzy]

Software - Another Vote for Fusion360. It good for beginners to experts with ton of videos and courses you can watch.
The new style Slicers are so capable now it's worth learning them as well.

Printers - I have been printing so long I am a Prusa Fanboy. But have totally falling in love with the Bambo printers. You can pick up a X1C with the AMS 2 Pro for $1,400.00 less shipping, tax, filament and it's a great buy and printer. That is the base I would start at and move up from there. The Prusa XL 5 head is awesome.

 

[HelmPilot]

THANKS TO ALL OF YOU

This great advice has given me a totally different perspective!

 

[modified]

Great thread!

I’ve been using Shapr3D, and the learning curve hasn't been too bad. It offers support for both Mac and iPad, which makes it easy to sketch out ideas on the iPad and refine them later on the desktop.

As for printing, I’ve been using a Creality K1 Max, and it’s been reliable and capable of handling everything I’ve thrown at it so far. That said, I’ll be handing it down to my son soon and plan to upgrade to a Bambu Labs H2D next.