X2 Batteries

[Canyon Trekker]

Batteries are fed thru solar or shore power disconnected at 80%, battery switch killed to solar, and separate battery switch for killing all trickle to / from the shore power (removable key switch).

Two batteries got stuck in an over temp at different times, these were both Gen X2’s. When coming back from a camping trip and going to drop the hydraulic jacks- nothing. Open the trailer look inside have Error on the inverter panel for under voltage, and Victron smart shunt is no longer registering on my hub.

Ultimately I disassembled the entire battery system 400 amp rated distribution blocks, copper terminals, stainless Steel hardware. Power in power out no blown fuses. Batteries plus guy comes by and tests batteries takes one with him (second gen 1 to get replaced) we strip it down to no distributions and single battery. Boom small arc and then nothing. He thinks there is something grabbing too many amps and the vms is safety shutting down. So I go to Costco buy a lead acid hook that fucker up, and not a fucking problem.

Are you referring to X2 Lithium batteries? A lithium battery has a BMS system, not the X2 AGM battery. (You used the term VMS, which is usually Vehicle Monitoring System and BMS is Battery Monitoring System) A lithium battery has a built in BMS. If this is the case, I still think you have a system problem but needs to be addressed in a different manner.

So sorry you had to go through that, but I can tell you right now, you have a system problem. Guaranteed. A Batteries Plus guy is not the right guy to troubleshoot something like this. They only know what their book tells them to do. They are not technicians.

In this discussion, we have been talking about X2 AGM batteries, not lithium. There is no reason that an AGM battery can't do what an SLA battery can do. The only difference is the way they charge. The chemical construction is exactly the same, but the AGM stores the acid in a mat rather than in a reservoir and is sealed. It has a vent that will pop if it gets charged with more than about 15.2 volts. An SLA will handle a much higher charge voltage (about 17 volts) because they do not have a vent that can pop. But will spew acid everywhere. (Hence all the corrosion associated with them)

Again, if you are talking about a lithium battery this does not apply to the discussion here. But if you are using AGM batteries, based on your input, here is what I would begin to suspect. (And again, VMS or BMS is associated with a lithium battery, AGM does not have a monitoring circuit) Your system sees an inrush that it can't handle when you hook the battery up. The fact that you hooked the SLA up and it worked is likely coincidental and that it does not have the circuit board in it to cause a fault. This allows whatever is causing the inrush to charge up.

Many appliances have a capacitive startup sequence, and it sounds like something is drawing a lot of power when you hook the battery up. It very well could be the charging system itself. I've even seen advanced audio systems cause issues due to the high capacitance associated with the in rush current.

If I were you, I would take it back to the place that installed your solar or whatever and have them do voltage checks on the system. Explain to them that you've gone through several batteries. If they have a real technician, have them do in rush current checks on each circuit to figure out what is causing the issue. I believe you still have a problem just waiting to fail or a system that just has a high demand upon hookup. The vendor will need to figure that out since there are so many variables.

 

[Briski]

Always buy new batteries. The clock starts on stamped manufacturing date.
Cheers

 

[Mike1646]

Battery plus had to order me one since it had a date from 2/2025

 

[HeavyAssault]

A lot of city driving. 15-30 minutes and some idling since it’s my mobile office.

The motor RPMs at city speeds could be enough on the daily, but the key is how often you then are stopping-starting the motor. Given your case a at-home setup would be good. Park for the night (maybe over the weekend?), connect the charger of your choice, and let it do it's thing. Once every two weeks or so isn't going to hurt.

For me I use a CTS3 where I can see the battery voltage at startup. Usually sits at 14.8VDC, as I drive that can seem to be the "norm", but it's the system charging the batteries. If I hit the HWY driving for over an hour where that 14.8V drops to 14.2V dropping to 13.8V. At the end the batteries are topped off and not really "charging" but more like maintaining.

 

[Mike1646]

What settings should be used in FORScan?

 

[Canyon Trekker]

What settings should be used in FORScan?

Not necessary to change anything. Many discussions in here about that subject but in a nutshell, your system will not overcharge the AGM. The Forscan change does not change any of the charging parameters. It may change the "estimated time to replace" algorithm stored in the computer that doesn't do a very good job anyway.

Use a maintainer to keep the batteries fresh at all times. This will give you the maximum life for the battery.